RADIATOR FAN FZJ80 - long

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I have reviewed the threads on radiator fans, and have done some preliminary studies on the 3 busted ones I now own. It would appear that many theories abound on which fan is better and why, not sure many of them reflect current theory and practice with regard to their application. I am going to specifically address the SC application, because it appears that the spacer required on the clutch thermo makes blade placement and load flex critical.

First off, I'm fairly new to this board, but have extensive cooling management experience in turbocharged applications. Included in that is a 7500rpm stock VC ringed fan application in the 20valve turbo cars (many tweeked run in excess of 8000prm). Hence, I came to the conclusion years ago, that a ringed fan beats a 'free floater' type any day.

The 3 fans I have in my shop are 1 trimmed stocker, 1 to be trimmed (new) stocker, and the TRD (CD "old v6 app") unit supplied with the Supercharger.

Myth #1
The number of fan blades means more airflow. With the same size fan blades of two free floaters, it's more likely that the one with more blades moves more air at a lower rpm, than the one with less blades. Fan blades are wings with high pressure zones and low pressure zones, which should also be considered 'barriers' at some speed (we don't have any data 'yet' as to what speed that is).

Myth #2
A ringed fan moves less air than a non ringed fan. The ring itself really shouldn't matter IMO/E. In fact, if you look at the early v6 design, toyota did more than most manufacturers in designing a reverse velocity stack into the ring, impressive to me (even audi doesn't do that). This means that there is a diverter nozzle at the end of the blade tips which funnels high pressure air (pre fan) into a low pressure zone (post fan). Given 2 fans of equal diameter, the blade design and count, not necessarily the ring presence, will dictate airflow for any given rpm.

Myth #3
'Free floating' fans are better than ringed fans. The key to consistency of airflow is the shape of the wing. I can take a brand new factory fan and deform the blades with very little effort. Change the shape of a wing, it will change the characteristics of airflow, usually, not for the better. I could drop a brick on the ringed fan and those blades won't budge. If Toyota's goal was to reduce blade flex to optimize it's wing properties: The ringed fan meets that goal with extreme prejudice, the 'free floater' fails with very little pressure. Optimize the diverter nozzle design into the ring, airflow should actually be better vs a free floater type.

Myth #4
Fans need to address all engine speeds. Interesting to note that the boys at Land Rover did some interesting tests on radiator and airflow. The conclusions of that testing summarized that above ~45mph, a rover fan won't 'draw' more air. IOW, the cores themselves prevent air flows (hi to low pressure zones pre and post core respectively) beyond a certain point (this can be calculated just like a IC core flow). After that point a shroud and a fan can become more of a hinderance to airflow than without the presence of either. This can happen because of a speed vortex in the fan design (i.e. too many blades vs rpm), or because after 45mph, the best low pressure zone behind a radiator is just nothing behind it.

What to do? I suppose some complicated tests might be in order (Scamper and Gumby were on that thread), or we could prioritize the fit for use (practical engineering). I'm a practical engineer, and failure analysis kind of guy. I see a couple of issues with the threads to date. I know that the 80 series has some phenomenal cooling capacity, so the 'ultimate' fan really isn't necessary. I know that because I drove over 100 track miles and 1200 road miles with no fan or shroud, and some 6 radiator cores blocked off, and my temps never waivered from normal. So, my primary goal is my target: Give me a fan that doesn't deform at high rpm.

The design of the blades between the free floater stocker and the TRD (early v6) are all but identical, in shape and design. That indicates to me that the ringed fan has some distinct advantages, especially at high rpm, where the free floater is known to fail. If you can't deform a blade, flow will be optimized up to vortex or rad flow limit. I suppose we could theorize that the free floating fan design is 'meant' to deform in a good way to allow better flow at higher rpm. Problem, fan blade designs don't appear to be any different. I personally think it's cheaper to build a free floater.

The tests conducted to date, and the resulting conclusions lack some validity IMO. I would expect to find a vortex within a fan blade design, because, just like a turbo, air velocity and pressure is highest at the outer tip of the blades (compressor or turbine theory). Looking at a ringed fan and a freefloater of the same blade design, I find it almost impossible to believe that one could find a difference in 'vortex testing' between the two. For a specific rpm, maybe, but somewhere in that testing of rpm vs vortex (in fact contrary to the posts, the 8 blade fan should 'vortex' sooner in the rpm range), the 7 blade fan will outperform the 8 blade.

Ringed or not, the fan blade designs on both the early and late style are identical, and quite well engineered. Most aftermarket fan blades aren't wing shaped, and many actually 's' curve the blades to reduce noise (which also reduces airflow significantly). Given the threads to date show that we are speaking of less than 5mm clearance between fan models, I'm thinking the beefier ringed fan is desired over the non ringed variety. This design should yield better airflow over a wider rpm due to less deformity of the bade, and a better inverted nozzle design inherent in the ring. So, until we get further data to the contrary, I propose we are really 'only' speaking to the clearance issue of the fan to the shroud/core, not really a performance issue.

I think TRD spec'd the correct fan for the application, but maybe forgot that the shroud needs to be replaced, modified or removed.

Hope this generates some food for thought. I also have read up on the thermostat opinions as well, and can share a lot of real world data on this too (Stock thermostats - oil and water on all turbo audis - including race cars). I'll refrain for now, since I can barely keep up with responses on a single thread...

Scott Justusson
FZJ80 kazuma
modded and field balanced 8blade stocker for now...
 
SUMOTOY said:
... I know that because I drove over 100 track miles and 1200 road miles with no fan or shroud, and some 6 radiator cores blocked off, and my temps never waivered from normal. ...

Scott- do you have an aftermarket temp gauge? I ask because the stocker is known to have a serious dead spot in the mid-range to save soccer moms from panicing, should they ever happen to glance at that little gizmo. Raventai has a thread detailing how to "fix" it for '95-'97 models. I bet your temps were moving around quite a bit, especially as you slowed down (i.e., less air flow).

I think the stock fan would have been fine by TRD if only they had the space for it. The ringed fan solved their space problem nicely.
 
You have yet to operate the vehicle in the summer. You will not have the same results running around without a blade in summer temperatures. I still feel the ringed blade is a piece of junk and ditching it appears to have solved my problems. Your results may vary however and my mind remains open. Open that is until I see the next V6 truck with a grenaded fan, toasted air cleaner box, cracked battery, wasted radiator core and beat-up hood...:D
 
I agree that the "Dead spot" in the stock temp gauge could be a pitfall of your observations. I have no experience with the S/C or the ringed fan blade, but I believe C-dan has recommended a fan blade from another toyota truck application that is not ringed and does not require trimming/balancing. I'd have to search to find the application.
 
cruiserdan said:
Open that is until I see the next V6 truck with a grenaded fan, toasted air cleaner box, cracked battery, wasted radiator core and beat-up hood...:D

I can hear the drums starting. Not too much self mutilation Dan, Sara is tired of cleaning the blood out of your clothes.:D

Repeat after me, "Please Shaman, I didn't mean it . . here is my credit card send me the parts you think I need."
 
Bruneti said:
I agree that the "Dead spot" in the stock temp gauge could be a pitfall of your observations. I have no experience with the S/C or the ringed fan blade, but I believe C-dan has recommended a fan blade from another toyota truck application that is not ringed and does not require trimming/balancing. I'd have to search to find the application.



16361-65020. 94-95 3.0 V6 truck, 4Runner, T100.
 
Some baselines

Guys:
I'm only addressing what I've read to date. I don't rely on any temp guage in vehicle unless I've baselined it. I did so with my Raytek IR temp gun at Steamboat and in prior months as well. The dead spot appears to be in the 195>210 range, but above 210, the guage started towards hot. I showed 250F at 3/4 guage.

Second: I'm up for any opinions on the subject, if they have valid theory behind them. Vorticies are found in ANY radiator fan, more specifically, vorticies are found in any radiator fan with a shroud before it ever goes thru the blades. There can in fact be reversion in the center of a radiator fan, but that's because the pressure is so high at the outer tips.

If you want to rely on Vortex theory, I suspect that moving the fan closer to the radiator creates a bigger vortex problem, than changing the design or count of the blades. Further, I suspect that if one used more scientific theory and application to study this, you might find that if you move closer to a radiator, you want less, not more fan blades.

I'm up for a discussion on this in any detail. I'm not at all convinced that the conclusions drawn to date are valid. Many contradict my experience in hot race and street cars. If you need more cooling, I'd be looking at grill design, honeycomb grills, oil coolers and sealing off and optimizing the entry (high pressure zones) and exit (low pressure zones) to the radiator itself. The conclusions that the 'fan' is the issue on a spacer problem, is premature.

I have lots of thoughts on that old thread as a whole (sorry?). My specialty for 15 years is turbocharged all wheel drive cars (running 20-26psi). Smaller radiators, frontal area, and fans. I also think the thread wandered a bit, because the introduction of an intercooler doesn't automatically mean 'less' heat, and the introduction of a lower thermostat doesn't necessarily bring all good to the problem: heat.

Dan, the first place I would start finding supporting documentation on a fan with smaller blades in the same shroud, is reversion and vortex. If you want to concentrate on the radiator's ability to cool with a viscous fan, I believe you are on the wrong side of the radiator.

I'm up for the discussion on this in any detail you guys desire...

Best Regards

Scott Justusson
 
Holy s***e !!!!!
are we actually having a technically accurate discussion in the 80 tech pages ???
and so far it is remaining civil ???
Sorry no real tech to add here only a thought, as I understand what you are saying the high pressure zone on the front side (away from the motor) may be a large issue on the overall capacity of the fan and blades, In your experience would putting a smaller inlet and basically an inverse of the fan shroud on the front of the radiator releive some of these pressures at speed??
I am sure it would look retarded but I know that on some of the high end sports cars I have worked with there are air ducts leading to the intercoolers, I alwasy assumed that the ducting was to increase the air flow to these as they have no fans typically. Is the inverse actually correct??
Sorry kind of long and rambling but hopefully you get the idea of what I am saying.
Dave
 
Gents:
Here is a sample resume on some of my more creative btdt applications of cooling to high performance and turbocharged awd machines. Notice: hood vents, innner headlight ducting, rear deck cooler (water), air flow management, etc. Take note in the first one here, the only air flow is thru the two inner headlight ducts, the center grill is all LT1 engine.

http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/37342/lt1q_rads.jpg

http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/37342/5ktqrace1.jpg

http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/37342/urqtt.jpg

http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/37342/rearcooler4_copy.jpg

http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/37342/wagon1.jpg

I'm hoping that with triple the frontal area in the FJ80, the cooling issues are simpler and require less creativity.

Scott Justusson
QSHIPQ Performance Tuning
Chicago IL
 
I try to keep things realitively simple. The ringed fan for my rig made the hood hotter to touch and the regular trimmed blade fan helped keep it cooler, that is as far as I got. Cause and effect. Just keeping it simple. Wait till you are pulling a large trailer at 45 mph full throttle on a 85+ degree day for 5 minutes straight. Real world. Then let us know. Our inpromptu testing has worked for most of us, however your sitiation might be different. Till something changes for my application, I'm sticking with the trimmed OEM fan.
 
PHAEDRUS said:
Holy s***e !!!!!
are we actually having a technically accurate discussion in the 80 tech pages ???
and so far it is remaining civil ???
Sorry no real tech to add here only a thought, as I understand what you are saying the high pressure zone on the front side (away from the motor) may be a large issue on the overall capacity of the fan and blades, In your experience would putting a smaller inlet and basically an inverse of the fan shroud on the front of the radiator releive some of these pressures at speed??
I am sure it would look retarded but I know that on some of the high end sports cars I have worked with there are air ducts leading to the intercoolers, I alwasy assumed that the ducting was to increase the air flow to these as they have no fans typically. Is the inverse actually correct??
Sorry kind of long and rambling but hopefully you get the idea of what I am saying.
Dave

Ha Dave:
I've been in some doosies over the years, but always happy to be the nerd on task. What I believe to be true is that air flow is most effective when it is controlled. In that control are high and low pressure zones. On the front side of the radiator, you want to make sure that the high pressure air present, goes *thru* the radiator (intercooler) core. Air is a liquid in that it will find the easiest way around before it goes 'thru' something.

Once you figure out how to get it 'thru' a core, you then have to do something with it on the other side. IOW, you need to create an effective low pressure zone. IME, spinning wheels make great low pressure zones, and you find many of the new hi po cars and trucks have louvers mounted in the wheel wells for this.

I'm still a bit confused as to what the object of the 'fan' game is. If it's "heat", I doubt you could get a noticeable/measurable difference between any of the toyota fans, SC/trubo or not. If it's 'space' then I just don't see a noticeable difference between a ringed fan that won't flex, and a non ringed fan that does proportionally to rpm.

If it's heat, I'm quite happy to go down that discussion road, since my btdt in this respect is extensive and well documented in the audi arena in much tighter quarters. If it's spacer vs fitment (my suspicion), what is lacking is a valid test or theory to correlate those spacer concerns to a heat based performance issue. Each fan is optimized for a different set of conditions. If you haven't addressed pre and post fan (high and low pressure zones), all you've changed is the effective cooling for a given set of conditions. Problem = rpm changes frequently?


Scott Justusson
 
cpg said:
cant see the pictures

Try edit copy edit paste into your browser. I believe the links have been interrupted but you can paste and go direct.

SJ
 
Rainy Day FZJ said:
I try to keep things realitively simple. The ringed fan for my rig made the hood hotter to touch and the regular trimmed blade fan helped keep it cooler, that is as far as I got. Cause and effect. Just keeping it simple. Wait till you are pulling a large trailer at 45 mph full throttle on a 85+ degree day for 5 minutes straight. Real world. Then let us know. Our inpromptu testing has worked for most of us, however your sitiation might be different. Till something changes for my application, I'm sticking with the trimmed OEM fan.

Problem:
If you changed the design of the fan blade you have changed it's ability to cool properly. The reason you find the hood hotter, is that on the ringed fan, the high pressure air will go to the outside of the blade, the diverter nozzle design of the ring is designed to make that happen.

I say if your hood was 'hotter' you have the better fan there. You addressed high heat by exchanging less of it. How about trying to get the hood cooler? IOW, move the hot air out of the engine bay.

I live in the real world, and have for years with radiators and fans smaller than the 80 on race tracks with higher heat. If you want to address the 'heat' problem, I just suggest there are better ways to do that. In a towing situation, you want to address long term heat buildup, which is more effectively done with an oil cooler, than a radiator.

RD, none of this is new for me, in theory or application. You might have been really lucky and changed the effective cooling for the better at a given rpm range. I believe if you trimmed the blades, you have reduced the window of that range, and doubt you outperform the ringed fan TRD specifies.

I'd rather take the discussion to space OR heat, because I think they are two separate issues. If it's heat, then let's go down that road with some more documented theory and application. If it's space, then whatever doesn't hit the radiator works by definition.

Scott Justusson
 
Scott,

Good discussion on airflow dynamics and boundaries. While/when you do your testing I think what would be most useful are actual coolant temps at varying loads/RPMs as that's really the bottom line for fan performance - impact on cooling. You mentioned baselining the guage with an IR gun, but mentally I get a vision of you standing there with the hood up which isn't the same as perhaps using an OBDII reader in the cockpit while driving. Someone did that a while back and got excellent data.

Excellent stuff, but gather some data, man!!!! Heh...

Informationally, I have always felt that many overlook one of the most basic ways to enhance cooling which is to clean off the radiator fins with concentrated Simple Green or similar. I did this on my Subaru at only 23,000 miles and registered 7-14 degrees cooler vent temps at the dashboard. The amount of dust and grime that hits the radiator is astonishing, and it's nice to see it flowing down the driveway. Of course, this showed the increase in effectiveness of the A/C condensor but when transferring heat to air it helps to have clean fins. I do this annually and tow an overweight load on mountain passes all summer with nary a cooling issue. Just a sideboard to your thread here in the pursuit of effective cooling.

Anyhow, actual temps of various fans on a truck in operation would be excellent and you might have these, but thought I'd point out their usefulness. We used to use them routinely while doing destructive towing tests on cooling systems.

DougM
 
The Toy truck fan Dan mentioned solved my overheating issues with a TRD supercharcher. The "ringed fan" that comes with the super charger is a piece of SHHHH. It moves little to no air at all RPMs. compared to other non ringed fans.
 
LandCruiserPhil said:
Dan can you post a picture of your magic fan?


This is the only one I have at the moment:
fan 002.webp
 

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