radiator failure??? (1 Viewer)

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when do the radiators need to be replaced in the 100? i have two LX 470's one is a 99 the other is a 2000 and they both have over 240000 miles on them. when the radiator fails is it usually catastrophic or just a leak
 
Can be catastrophic. The plastic top usually turns from black to a "brownish" color which indicates it's near death. Check the hoses too. They can usually rot before the radiator goes. Inspect the cooling elements as well. If you see a ton of bent or compressed fins, it's probably best to replace. The replacement is relatively inexpensive and the consequences of blowing one can be bad.

Oh, and CHECK the Heater Ts! Those can be catastrophic.
 
In my experience (as @geanes pointed out) the plastic tanks turn brown, and it starts developing hairline cracks/leaks. I've always replaced the radiator at this point, although I guess if you ignored it long enough it could develop into a catastrophic failure.
 
when do the radiators need to be replaced in the 100? i have two LX 470's one is a 99 the other is a 2000 and they both have over 240000 miles on them. when the radiator fails is it usually catastrophic or just a leak
Thanks i have done the T's twice now and the tank isn't turning brown yet but they both are getting old. is there an alternative all metal radiator i should consider?
 
when do the radiators need to be replaced in the 100? i have two LX 470's one is a 99 the other is a 2000 and they both have over 240000 miles on them. when the radiator fails is it usually catastrophic or just a leak
How much is a new engine? Holy crap, a new Denso radiator is like $170 from Amazon? The originals went a quarter million miles. Don't ask if it's time to replace them .. just replace them.
 
when do the radiators need to be replaced in the 100? i have two LX 470's one is a 99 the other is a 2000 and they both have over 240000 miles on them. when the radiator fails is it usually catastrophic or just a leak
How much is a new engine? Holy crap, a new Denso radiator is like $170 from Amazon? The originals went a quarter million miles. Don't ask if it's time to replace them .. just replace them.
 
I replaced mine at 156k. It was weeping fluid and the area behind the trans cooler was completely blocked with dirt. Also, the front lower area where the tank meets the fins was really corroded and full of dirt, etc.

Its a pretty easy fix. I ordered mine from Rocketauto.com an exact replacement. There are several threads for DYI.

Rad leak MG_9312.jpg
 
I have a 2001 LX with 218,000 miles. Mine cracked 1-2 years ago. Bought a Denso plus hoses online. Indie mechanic popped it right in. Minimal expense. If you’re never too far from home or your mechanic’s shop, no hurry. If you take road trips to places where getting stuck would be a major hassle, consider replacement.
 
Consider your original radiators fully amortized. 175-200k miles is typical service life.

Look to replace rad and flush coolant, replace hoses if original and also replace spring clamps. The replacement rads prob wont last half as long as original, but $175 for a Denso or Similar replacement will be money well spent.

I looked and didnt find an all aluminum drop in replacement. There are custom available but they are north of $700.

This is a good thread on the subject:

Best replacement radiator for the money today...
 
Just adding another data point.

The radiator on my 1999 just started leaking at 260,000. I recently replaced it and am happy I did. I feel a lot better about our upcoming drive across Wyoming and Utah.

Just replace them now. You'll be happy you did.
 
I'm going to throw in some thought too...it's not miles so much as time. As long as you change the coolant sooner than later corrosion won't be an issue. Replace the radiator cap too. If you take your radiator to a local radiator shop they can build you one, add rows of tubes and fins, aluminum tanks etc. yes it'll cost a little more and take a few days, but it will be the last radiator you ever buy. As long as you change the coolant often that is.
 
i replaced the radiator in my tundra with a denso. it was made in "CHINA". the OEM in the lexus has heavy plastic compared to the denso. i read that denso isn't the oem mfg for landcruiser. i am going to look for OEM or maybe an all metal replacement.
 
ALL of the engines I have replaced in 100 series were 100% due to radiator failure... PERIOD once the coolant is gone it never reads HOT because there is no coolant around the sending unit... so you have little if any warning before it looses power and dies on the side of the road... I have purchased $200 radiators and $99 radiators and sometimes they were EXACTLY the same... I'd order 4 row and receive 2 row... I have 50k miles on a 2 row now... I OFTEN leave it running all day on 100 degree days because my dog is in the truck... it never goes past 1/2 on the temp gauge.... I pull an enclosed trailer 75mph for 2hrs and it never even gets warm... this is a VERY small V8 and the 2 row must be adequate for the job... In race cars (depending on track) we wanted as little drag as possible with as much heat exchange... the 3rd and 4th row added a ton of drag and if the first row was efficient then the rows after were getting heated air so anything after was not doing alot.... and the 4row is HEAVY which might be one reason they fail... I would almost suggest going with the $99 china 2 row radiator... I know it goes against everything most believe... but I do have a stack of failed 4rows in my shop... JMHO
 

"Item location:
LINYI,SHANDONG, China"

Yeah, I'm not putting anything custom/"racing" that was welded up in China in any vehicle of mine. And good luck if you want to return it if it's crap or leaks after a month.

My Amazon Denso came with a bunch of bent fins (because of shipping), they sent a new one. No questions asked.
 
I paid $330 with free shipping for an OEM from Camelback. Cheap piece of mind if you ask me.
 
Doesn't look like its got a trans cooler built in, it doesn't have tabs for the fan shroud to rest on. And you really can't tell if its a "drop in" fit. I wouldn't risk it. Stick with Toyota OEM or for a little less $$ a Denso replacement designed to "drop in" and cool to the engineering specifications established by Toyota.
 
Mine completely let go at 240k. Had the brown top. Was 200 miles from home....not a cheap dealer trip. Do the Denso for $200 in your driveway.
 
Mine had the brown plastic on top and just replaced that with a new one and touch wood no issues.
 

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