Builds R²M 2013 GX 460 Overland Build (3 Viewers)

[Acrad]

I feel the same way but labor isn't cheap these days

Here are PNs if you change your mind

[Radiator]
PN: 16400-38253 / Assembly
PN: 16401-30020 / Cap
PN: 16572-38151 / Lower Hose
PN: 16571-38100 / Upper Hose
PN: 90466-A0026 / Hose clamps


[Water Pump]
PN: 16100-09525 / pump
PN: 1627138030 / gasket

[Idler Pulley]
PN: 16603-38011

 

[r2m]

Looks like along with a new 240 amp alternator, I'll be having a new ($800.00) radiator too.
As they were tackling the first "R" (remove) of the R&R for the alternator, they need to remove the radiator too and found it was cracked. They thought is was a hose until closer inspection.
Wish I had known before the tear down, I probably could have sourced a better, cheaper radiator. I think I remember a thread or two about that on our forum.
But since it was already disassembled on my mechanics lift, I couldn't really ask him to wait a week or two for a radiator I ordered to come in.
The only bright side is that the labor cost of replacing the radiator is zero, because it's already part of the alternator labor.
Hey, I'm trying to make lemonade out of these lemons...

 

[aztoytec]

Looks like along with a new 240 amp alternator, I'll be having a new ($800.00) radiator too.
As they were tackling the first "R" (remove) of the R&R for the alternator, they need to remove the radiator too and found it was cracked. They thought is was a hose until closer inspection.
Wish I had known before the tear down, I probably could have sourced a better, cheaper radiator. I think I remember a thread or two about that on our forum.
But since it was already disassembled on my mechanics lift, I couldn't really ask him to wait a week or two for a radiator I ordered to come in.
The only bright side is that the labor cost of replacing the radiator is zero, because it's already part of the alternator labor.
Hey, I'm trying to make lemonade out of these lemons...

Better now then on the trail!

 

[r2m]

Better now then on the trail!

Absolutely agree. That's what I told my wife when her eyes popped at the cost of the radiator. When I told her better at the mechanic than in Death Valley (coming up on the cool months, we will be wheeling out there), then her eyes went back in her sockets and the universe was at peace again.

 

[Bang Bang]

Looks like along with a new 240 amp alternator, I'll be having a new ($800.00) radiator too.
As they were tackling the first "R" (remove) of the R&R for the alternator, they need to remove the radiator too and found it was cracked. They thought is was a hose until closer inspection.
Wish I had known before the tear down, I probably could have sourced a better, cheaper radiator. I think I remember a thread or two about that on our forum.
But since it was already disassembled on my mechanics lift, I couldn't really ask him to wait a week or two for a radiator I ordered to come in.
The only bright side is that the labor cost of replacing the radiator is zero, because it's already part of the alternator labor.
Hey, I'm trying to make lemonade out of these lemons...

I feel your pain. We were at an off-road event (had the buggy on a trailer, not the GX) in AR (about 8 hours from home) when the water pump on the Tundra took a dump. I had all the parts to change it out at the house except for one pulley and that was on its way. I was gonna do it before the trip but couldn’t so I decided to do it after. The truck decided to do it during. Anyway, $1400 later we were running cool again. Hard pill to swallow but it could have happened while we were on our way towing the trailer. That would not have been fun at all. Most expensive wheeling trip I’ve taken to date.

 

[r2m]

Well, got the 'ol girl back yesterday with the new radiator and alternator, total was just a scratch over $1,300 including me purchasing the high amp alternator myself and giving it to my mechanic. He was able to get a radiator for a little over $300, and since it had to come out to do the R&R of the alternator, there was no additional cost. I was quite relieved, his initial quote was $800 for the radiator and was expecting a $2k bill.
Needless to say, my wife was happy.

 

[Bang Bang]

Well, got the 'ol girl back yesterday with the new radiator and alternator, total was just a scratch over $1,300 including me purchasing the high amp alternator myself and giving it to my mechanic. He was able to get a radiator for a little over $300, and since it had to come out to do the R&R of the alternator, there was no additional cost. I was quite relieved, his initial quote was $800 for the radiator and was expecting a $2k bill.
Needless to say, my wife was happy.

I just heard you made $700. Time for some more mods.

 

[THEOZMAN]

Well, got the 'ol girl back yesterday with the new radiator and alternator, total was just a scratch over $1,300 including me purchasing the high amp alternator myself and giving it to my mechanic. He was able to get a radiator for a little over $300, and since it had to come out to do the R&R of the alternator, there was no additional cost. I was quite relieved, his initial quote was $800 for the radiator and was expecting a $2k bill.
Needless to say, my wife was happy.

That's a good mechanic!
I have been running all over town trying to find someone to install my SuperPro bushings for my LCA and no one would do customer supplied parts even though I bought all new OEM alignment bolts kit from Toyota. and the ones who would do it are asking $1K. Its getting ridiculous!
Sorry for the rant !

 

[r2m]

That's a good mechanic!
I have been running all over town trying to find someone to install my SuperPro bushings for my LCA and no one would do customer supplied parts even though I bought all new OEM alignment bolts kit from Toyota. and the ones who would do it are asking $1K. Its getting ridiculous!
Sorry for the rant !

We've been using this mechanic for over 30 years. The type of guy that will tell you when something is beginning to go, e.g.: maybe brakes in another 10k miles, hoses showing a little wear, belts a little cracked, small leak but see how it holds out, etc. so you have a heads up on an upcoming service. He's not one of those mechanics that anything they find is an emergency and HAS to be RIGHT NOW!!
We were worried about our mechanic a few years ago when he said he was selling his business and going into retirement.
But all is good and the young man that bought his business has kept the same ethos and reputation and even expanded it a little, Added a couple more bays and mechanics, but same service and quality!

 

[r2m]

I think I just found my dream mod for my rig.

ᐉ Portal axles for Lexus GX ≡ Portals for Lexus ≡ Shop Werewolftech

Portal axles for Lexus GX — Products and parts for jeeps ✅ Prices from the manufacturer ✅ A wide range of wheel gears and disks ✅ Quality assurance for each client ➨ Read more

werewolftech.com

Can do an easy 37" tire upgrade!
If you scroll to the bottom for $2,000 more you can get CTIS (central tire inflation system) for it also for on-the-fly inflating and deflating your tires!
My only concern would be how it rides on road trips. Generally portal axles don't do well at high speeds, thus Hummers, Unimogs, Pinzgauer usually have a top speed of about 50 MPH. Maybe 55 MPH downhill with a tail wind.

 

[r2m]

Had kind of an unexpected but pleasant surprise pop up on my dash binnacle this morning.
Is said, "Windshield Washer Fluid Low"
Wow, I didn't know it monitored that fluid!
Have to admit, that's one of the better warning messages to have show up on ones dash.
This made me want to think about what washer fluid I'd like to add this time around so I did some research and found this: Prestone 3-in-1 All Season Year Round Windshield Washer Fluid 0 Degree: Amazon product ASIN B09J99F178The online reviews (not Amazon reviews, but comparison review) rated this pretty high, so I have an order in with Amazon for a gallon.
Now, thinking about it more, it's been a while since I've changed my wipers. Yeah, they've been hardly used here in So. Cal. since it never rains, but just the UV and particulate alone, I'm sure they're about done.
Looking at new wipers, do you all have any recommendations? I'm NOT looking for cheap, I'm looking for BEST.
Rain-X Latitude Water Repellency gets a lot of good reviews, actually it seems all the Rain-X products are good. So does the Bosch Icon's.
Any thoughts?

 

[Banandalorian]

Had kind of an unexpected but pleasant surprise pop up on my dash binnacle this morning.
Is said, "Windshield Washer Fluid Low"
Wow, I didn't know it monitored that fluid!
Have to admit, that's one of the better warning messages to have show up on ones dash.
This made me want to think about what washer fluid I'd like to add this time around so I did some research and found this: Prestone 3-in-1 All Season Year Round Windshield Washer Fluid 0 Degree: Amazon product ASIN B09J99F178The online reviews (not Amazon reviews, but comparison review) rated this pretty high, so I have an order in with Amazon for a gallon.
Now, thinking about it more, it's been a while since I've changed my wipers. Yeah, they've been hardly used here in So. Cal. since it never rains, but just the UV and particulate alone, I'm sure they're about done.
Looking at new wipers, do you all have any recommendations? I'm NOT looking for cheap, I'm looking for BEST.
Rain-X Latitude Water Repellency gets a lot of good reviews, actually it seems all the Rain-X products are good. So does the Bosch Icon's.
Any thoughts?

We get about a year to a set of wiper blades and both are good at being windshield wipers. I'm on my second set of Bosch Icons on the GX and have Rain-Xs on our CX5. Anecdotally, it seems like the Bosch blade material lasts longer and is less susceptible to damage from ice/dirt/whatever else gets on the windshield so that may be better for occasional use.

 

[r2m]

Great point about the Bosch.
Although we live in So. Cal, we go up to Tahoe regularly in the winter so we do get the snow and ice. So an all weather wiper would be best.
I'll give Bosch Icons a tray. Worst case, I'll swap them out in a year or two.

 

[Acrad]

I tried out the Icons a few years back but could never get them to stop squeaking so went back to OEM blade refills. I just put in refills every year as my vehicle sees snow, heat, and lots of rain.

 

[GrizzlyClint]

I tried out the Icons a few years back but could never get them to stop squeaking so went back to OEM blade refills. I just put in refills every year as my vehicle sees snow, heat, and lots of rain.

^ This. I just bought a set OEM Lexus branded wipers and my god they are completely silent and have better performance than the Bosch and other aftermarket wipers I’ve ever had.

 

[r2m]

I bought these a little over a month (or 2) ago on Amazon, thus I can't return them.
They are 1/2" thick and my lug nuts aren't long enough to reach them. And YES they do fit our bolt pattern.
So my loss is your gain.
These are free to anyone who want's to come by and pick them up!

 

[r2m]

I've busy building a central inflation/deflation system for my rig so I don't have to sit at every wheel when airing down and back up again.
Here are the Amazon components I purchased:
Pressure regulator. Note this has a gauge that is 0 - 60 psi which is much better than the 150+ psi gauges. It'll give you a more accurate resolution of your actual pressure. After dialing in the pressure, just plug it into your compressor and wait for your compressor to quit running, which means it has hit the preset pressure for your tires.
Amazon product ASIN B01BO91D2OThis is just a lead-in hose. Compressor get very hot and if you were to run the air line I used, it would pop out of the press to fit connection.
Amazon product ASIN B07PH5ZYW3This is the pressure relief control valve. It works great and stopped my deflation at around 13 psi, but it's too restrictive and slow. When I removed it, airing down was much quicker. So if you're not in a rush and have time, this is great.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007GDY3CU?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
By far the BEST valve chuck's I've EVER used!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01938M8MW?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
The next two are press to fit connections for 1/4" air line. These are great! easy to use and modify you're air circuit. (industrial) quick connect air connections on your compressor, regulator and pressure relief valve.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077H2JWSZ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RSLDDBR?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
You'll need to purchase these to connect to your regular:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H8KDTRS?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
This is the tubing I purchased:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B2CX8PVG?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
All-in-all, it's way cheaper then purchasing one of the pre-built that are out there, plus some don't have regulators and none have pressure relief valves.
This is a fun, cheap and easy little project that is VERY useful if you air down often on the trail.
Next post will be all the photos.

 

[r2m]

All coiled up with reusable zip (cable) ties.
Almost forgot to mention that it took about 10 minutes to air down from 35 psi to 13 psi, but part of the time was having the more restrictive pressure relief valve connected.
Inflation time saw a huge improvement! Less than 10 minutes from 13 psi to 40 psi on 315/70R17 (34.4" O.D.) It usually takes me over 3 minutes (probably closer to 4 minutes) per tire not counting having to jump around to each tire and sitting there to fill up. So this is a huge gain for me, especially if it brutally hot or cold out. I can just sit in my rig, I even have enough air line to run it into my drivers seat and monitor it all from the comfort of my seat!

 

[r2m]

Forgot to mention if you have any questions about how to make the circuit let me know. It's pretty easy, but it helps having the valves well placed.

 

[Montana Cruiser]

I just did the diode and able to see almost 14v (13.8) out of the stock alternator. It maybe stressing the alternator but if the end result is to delay a new alternator, I am ok with that. I am guessing with Toyota reliability, I may have a few 100k miles till when I need an upgrade.

I also doubt it will be stressing the alternator all that much so it maybe ok anyways.
I am now running a 27 group X2 AGM under the hood for reference.

Did you have to mod anything to fit the 27 vs 24?