Hi all - prospective 80 owner here that’s been shopping for a couple months now. Curtis to get this groups take on this birfield. The consistency was liquid like a light grease than something heavier. Was wondering if this indicated axle seals are done. Just trying to assess quality of this rig.
Quick take on a birfield (7 Viewers)
- Thread starter sgmartz
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- #2
Yes due for a knuckle rebuild
Yep, time for a rebuild but that wouldn't impact my interest if all else checks out. I'm probably going to do a full axle (plus other baselining) service soon after purchase in most cases anyway to confirm that everything is right (steering arm studs/nuts, kingpin/trunions, etc. etc.).
Use the required rebuild as a bargaining chip if it's useful but if everything else is up to snuff then I would just plan an immediate post purchase knuckle service.
Use the required rebuild as a bargaining chip if it's useful but if everything else is up to snuff then I would just plan an immediate post purchase knuckle service.
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Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Birf soup. The good news, no rust.
- Thread starter
- #6
Yeah Im really considering this one. Zero rust, engine and trans seem to be tip top. Interior is intact and all electrics work. Has a couple aftermarket mods. For 15k.
Doesn't look all that bad, ie: still drive-able until you can get it fixed.
IMHO it's important to not get focused on that leak (which is very common but not expensive to fix) because the biggest ticket potential repair on this model is a leaking head gasket. That repair could run from a few thousand up to $15,000 if the engine needed replacing, and that does happen.
You could ask the seller if the head gasket has been replaced and/or if he/she suspects it needs replacing, they may not know but either way don't take their word for it.
If you are serious about buying that 80 Series IMO you could take it to an experienced Land Cruiser mechanic and have them perform a complete inspection including tests for a leaking head gasket.
IMHO it's important to not get focused on that leak (which is very common but not expensive to fix) because the biggest ticket potential repair on this model is a leaking head gasket. That repair could run from a few thousand up to $15,000 if the engine needed replacing, and that does happen.
You could ask the seller if the head gasket has been replaced and/or if he/she suspects it needs replacing, they may not know but either way don't take their word for it.
If you are serious about buying that 80 Series IMO you could take it to an experienced Land Cruiser mechanic and have them perform a complete inspection including tests for a leaking head gasket.
Yeah, big ticket items can include rust, paint, crash damage, complete neglect, major interior refreshes and of course major internal engine work. To me a head gasket is a medium sized job if that's all it needs as it's not that expensive if you diy and it gives you a chance to catch up on a lot of "while in their items".
Looks like an earlier FZJ if I'm not mistaken with the AFM, ODB1 and earlier transmission, etc. The earlier FZJs are less desirable in my opinion though I know many, if not most, prefer them. All else equal the MAF and ODB2 are worth a decent premium to me. Could be the opposite to you and you may be seeking the earlier version but I wanted to throw this out for consideration in case it helps your negotiations. Knuckle service needed, earlier version and whatever else you care about may move the needle a bit in terms of how you value it.
So many variables but if it seems great and makes you happy as it sits and you can cover whatever curve balls may come up 15k seems reasonable to me.
Good luck
Looks like an earlier FZJ if I'm not mistaken with the AFM, ODB1 and earlier transmission, etc. The earlier FZJs are less desirable in my opinion though I know many, if not most, prefer them. All else equal the MAF and ODB2 are worth a decent premium to me. Could be the opposite to you and you may be seeking the earlier version but I wanted to throw this out for consideration in case it helps your negotiations. Knuckle service needed, earlier version and whatever else you care about may move the needle a bit in terms of how you value it.
So many variables but if it seems great and makes you happy as it sits and you can cover whatever curve balls may come up 15k seems reasonable to me.
Good luck
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- #9
What’s the benefit of the MAF?
The '95+ have hot wire MAFs instead of vane door MAFs like the older ones. Hot wire MAFs are more simple, and if you ever get to the point where you want to boost the engine, the SC and turbo kits out there all fit '95+ trucks. Also, the '95+ are OBD2. Even though '95 only has to comply with OBD1 emissions standards, Toyota just went OBD2 a year early on these things. Like jpool said, I feel that the '95+ are more desirable because of the engine management. And in my opinion, '95 is the best year to get because it allows you the most legal room to modify the engine and still pass emissions inspections. A triple locked '95 is basically the holy grail of 80 series, IMO.
As for the birf soup... that's basically a rite of passage to anyone entering the 80 series world. Rebuild kits are cheap and the process is pretty simple.
The VAFs certainly do a fine job typically but they are easy to damage if you are reckless with exploratory surgery, can be hard to troubleshoot and are hard to find good replacements for or to get repaired at this point. I wouldn't rule out a VAF 80 by a long shot but when it comes to what I'd pay for an 80 it's a factor.
Similarly I've seen a few folks with earlier 1FZFEs spend a lot of time chasing electrically related issues. Some of that is pretty anecdotal and I'd guess the vast majority of earlier 1FZFEs have been flawless for their 30ish years but it's smart to look closely at the condition of wiring connectors, etc. when considering a purchase of this vintage. Any old car that's been messed up by careless or incompetent mechanics or that has corroded or damaged components could deliver a lot of hassle, regardless of the platform, and those have been underlying factors in the situations where I've seen 80 owners endure prolonged struggle.
All of these are old enough to have a range of gremlins at this point but fortunately most 80s provide great service with minimal effort which is why I'm sure many of us think of any 80 as a "holy grail" vehicle and have no plans of ever driving anything else even after years of ownership a few "required maintenance" seasons. If you are up for doing at least some of the maintenance and repair work any decent 80 is hard to beat in my book but made all the better if you know what you are getting into and how to navigate what lies ahead. The mud forum can really help with those last items.
Similarly I've seen a few folks with earlier 1FZFEs spend a lot of time chasing electrically related issues. Some of that is pretty anecdotal and I'd guess the vast majority of earlier 1FZFEs have been flawless for their 30ish years but it's smart to look closely at the condition of wiring connectors, etc. when considering a purchase of this vintage. Any old car that's been messed up by careless or incompetent mechanics or that has corroded or damaged components could deliver a lot of hassle, regardless of the platform, and those have been underlying factors in the situations where I've seen 80 owners endure prolonged struggle.
All of these are old enough to have a range of gremlins at this point but fortunately most 80s provide great service with minimal effort which is why I'm sure many of us think of any 80 as a "holy grail" vehicle and have no plans of ever driving anything else even after years of ownership a few "required maintenance" seasons. If you are up for doing at least some of the maintenance and repair work any decent 80 is hard to beat in my book but made all the better if you know what you are getting into and how to navigate what lies ahead. The mud forum can really help with those last items.
I prefer the engine management of the later models, but I do like the early TOYOTA grill. Due to a front end collision, I've got both.
(and a salvage title, but we'll just ignore that part...)
@sgmartz I'm with everyone else on the birf soup. At least you know they've been lubed!
- Thread starter
- #13
Thx for the responses. I have no problem with doing the work myself. I’ve built jeeps and tacos, but I’m just getting to know the 80. Basically the only things on a car I have not done myself are an automatic trans rebuild and regearing. Mostly due to not wanting to buy the tools for an infrequent job.
OTRAMM is a mechanic with a lot of experience working on the 80 Series, he also has a you tube channel where he discusses many of the most common repairs
including a 4-5 part Series for the head gasket, another for the complete "front axle service" (CV joint/birfield/axle seals etc).
Here's a video of his for a pre-purchase inspection on a early model FZJ80. Check out his channel for the others:
including a 4-5 part Series for the head gasket, another for the complete "front axle service" (CV joint/birfield/axle seals etc).
Here's a video of his for a pre-purchase inspection on a early model FZJ80. Check out his channel for the others:
