Questions on a oil bath air filter (1 Viewer)

[JohannHorn]

I have never dealt with these but got an oem oil bath filter housing and thing I will install it to get rid of the aftermarket cone crap on the weber carb. Will obviously change the carb as well.

Its ons a 2F 76 engine. My questions if anyone could please help me

1. How much oil do you have to put in?
2. What type of oil
3. I see it has a cartridge or element on the inside. Do these need replacement and if yes on what milage? Do you get aftermarket ones still?

4.how often do you need to change oil?

Thanks!

 

[Splangy]

1. There's a fill line stamped into the housing.
2. Regular engine oil
3. The "cartridge" should be thoroughly cleaned
4. Change oil about as often as you change the engine oil.

 

[handcannon]

X2 on what Splangy said. Oil bath filters used to be on every motor made, until the fiber filtration technology got so much better.

This cartridge you are referencing is a part of the filter that is cleaned, but not changed. The internal mesh is like a real coarse steel wool, which is what helps "catch" the dirt that is in the air as it passes through. The dirt is then suspended in the oil where it gradually settles to the bottom of the oil. The dirt will eventually build up a layer on the bottom and needs to be cleaned out.

The biggest problem that I know of with an oil bath filter is that they can slosh around under extreme angles, creating messes.

Don

 

[shawnfj40]

I didn't think Toyota used those filters on the 2f motors. 1F did for sure.

 

[JohannHorn]

Thanks all. On toydiy it is listed under The model for SA for the 2F and it came from a 2F that was stripped so I think it will fit. I wish I could have gotten a paper type but after many months of searching I only managed to get the oil one.

 

[Living in the Past]

I didn't think Toyota used those filters on the 2f motors. 1F did for sure.

Yes but only on the pre 68 models here in the US. While shown as a option it seemed to be standard on US models. 68s and 69s pre 3/69 were the only models that used a paper element with the one barrel. Because these were a option the owner's manual really didn't cover to much on oil bath air cleaners. Not sure I did read this or not but I would use non detergent oil. Oil used on electric motors is non detergent because it sticks better that detergent oil which are designed to wash and rinse bearings. That works when a oil pump is replacing the oil that doing it's job of cleaning and lubing the bearings. Non detergent would stick to the mesh in the oil bath better.

 

[lostmarbles]

If you drive into water that's too deep, your engine first gets a gulp of oil before it starts gulping water which is a nice little quirk with these oil bath filters that I remember from my Series 2A Land Rover days..

 

[Living in the Past]

If you drive into water that's too deep, your engine first gets a gulp of oil before it starts gulping water which is a nice little quirk with these oil bath filters that I remember from my Series 2A Land Rover days..

So what your saying is the oil will help seal the rings before the cylinders try to compress the water. Guess this help test to see what shape your head gasket and valves are in. No need to worry about bend rods or cracked pistons.

 

[Yamabalu]

1. There's a fill line stamped into the housing.
2. Regular engine oil
3. The "cartridge" should be thoroughly cleaned
4. Change oil about as often as you change the engine oil.

Regular engine oil it is.

Does anyone have experience with different grade of oil (weight)?
What was the experience?