Questions - O2 Sensor - Wheel Offset - Gas Mileage - Towing

[Cursh]

I tried searching the forums, but am having trouble navigating the forums. I couldn't find any answers to the questions I'm about to ask but know they are probably out there (I just can't for the life of me find them)

I drive a 1988 Toyota Land Cruiser Automatic -

Firstly I'm pulling an intermittent O2 Sensor code. I know there are two O2 Sensors -

1(a). how do I tell which O2 Sensor is throwing the code
1(b). is it a better idea to just replace both O2 sensors?

2. Is there any reason not to grab the Bosche O2 Sensors from autozone/advanced auto parts?
2(b). there is a "factory" and a "Universal" O2 sensor - Whats the difference? (no idea here)

I'm not happy with the offset of the factory wheels/tires on my Land Cruiser. the audi guys would use spacers to set their wheels flush with the fenders.I was thinking that Spacers could work, but didn't know if there was a huge downside to this on trucks or even specifically cruisers. I also was entertaining the idea of getting after market wheels to correct this issue, but am concerned about killing my power (as the primary purpose of the vehicle is towing)

3. Would Aftermarket wheels with a more attractive offset and slightly larger tires (a 33 maybe) make a noticeable difference in power for towing?

4. Towing - Other than an oil cooler and transmission cooler is there anything I should look into for improving towing?

Sorry for all of the newb questions, just figured I could stuff this all into one thread.

-Ben

 

[Mace]

1) it does not matter, replace both of them anyway.

2) IMHO there is nothing magical about Toyota O2 sensors, however, from what I understand, there may be an issue with the heating element on the self heated O2 sensors. Toyota is more expensive but easy..

3) Larger tires will make towing worse..

4) A 3/4 or 1 ton rig..

What are you planning on towing?

 

[Randy88FJ62]

The wider the wheel spacers are the bigger torque or moment you're putting on the knuckles. Most people run spacers to fit improper backspaced rims. I wouldn't put spacers on unless you really feel looks are important. Lots of us make irrational decisions because we think it looks cool...

 

[boots4]

4. Towing - Other than an oil cooler and transmission cooler is there anything I should look into for improving towing?

-Ben

You might consider a tranny temp gauge if you'll be towing alot. I think those should be included in factory tow packages running autos.

 

[lovetoski]

3. Would Aftermarket wheels with a more attractive offset and slightly larger tires (a 33 maybe) make a noticeable difference in power for towing?

I don't think that offset has any impact on the torque applied to the ground. Offset only moves the tire in or out. Reasons to change offset are clearance, stability, aesthetics.

Larger tires will reduce your effective torque, making hills much more difficult when towing. You'll go slower, and/or use a lower gear.

How often will you tow, what weight, what distance, what kind of terrain? Rated towing capacity is 3500 lbs, but pulling that you will notice a big difference with stock tires, even more with 33's.

Of course, if you go 33 tires and 4.88 gears, your towing experience will be far better. This will actually give you better than stock gearing.

 

[lovetoski]

4. Towing - Other than an oil cooler and transmission cooler is there anything I should look into for improving towing?

Good suggestions above. Also make sure that the engine cooling system is working at 100%, that brakes are good, suspension/shocks/etc are in top shape.

The standard suggestion on here for new owners is to go through the truck and baseline everything, and bring every system up to best condition. Towing is even harder on the truck, so this advice stands double.

 

[Cursh]

I'm pulling an airstream that should be pretty close to 3500lbs when completed. -
how often - I'd say 25% of the time I am in the vehicle - never more than 5,000 miles a year. (I rarely drive, I have too many bicycles to drive most places, Cinderella is mostly used for hauling crap and towing)

Once I get the truck home I'm going to get it looked over top to bottom - I'm dealing with all of the obvious problems before the move.

How involved is putting 4.88 Gears into the truck?

Thank you.

(ps - I am having a terribly time searching in this forum, I feel like there is a wealth of information on 4.88 gears, I just can't for the life of me find it - 4.88 brings up nothing - "gears" brings up 300ish pages)

 

[Cruiserdrew]

If your trailer is 3500 pounds, your truck will be barely adequate to move it. The transmission has a reputation for running hot anyway, and won't lock up in 3rd gear, which generates tremendous heat any time you shift out of OD which will be frequent.

I'd keep the gearing and the stock sized tires, or if you go to 4.88s, stay with the stock sized tires. That will increase the mechanical advantage of the system and be a good thing as far as towing goes, but will hurt your economy and top speed.

5000 tow miles per year is a lot, and I don't think your transmission will last long if you do. One of the major advantages of the "Extreme" tranny rebuilds from Australia is the ability to lock up the torque converter in 3rd. That keeps it much cooler. If you really plan this much towing, with this underpowered of a truck, you should look into that. Search under "Rodney" "Wholesale Automatic Transmissions"

Wholesale Automatic Transmissions

I'm kind of new to the 3F-E/A440 world, but I do know this: It isn't a powerhouse. You sure you want to tow with that truck? The 3F-E list is a wealth of information on this transmission, and even to keep them alive without towing, most recommend a big tranny cooler.


I have taken the liberty of copying this from the 3FE archives:

Answer from Rodney:

Hi Guys it's Rodney here from Wholesale Automatics. As I have stated in the past, the A440F transmission struggles with heat! But it is normally kept in check by, 1/ running a standard factory fitted engine on a nice near flat road in 4th gear at 50mph or more with no great load on the cruiser. 2/ Well there is no 2! The fact is that most of you are running the cruisers with no load, On a nice near flat road where you can run at high way speeds and are mostly fitted with factory fitted low H/P engines. BUT put a turbo charger kit, Blower kit, V8, 2 tons weight or a mountain range in the way and presto! I find myself having to do the please explain. There are however exceptions to this rule if we have a faulty lock-up or a restriction in the cooler system.

If you are one that finds that you are having trouble with the over heating of the transmission than please listen in. First, Go back through all of my past messages and you will find a great deal of talk about the over heating of these transmissions. I don't know how but there are a lot of helpful people in here that will show the way. Also see my web pages IH8MUD Banner Advertising and then go to the latest news pages, you will find 2-3 news releases that talk about the subject that we are now covering.

Now for the Explanation. While the transmission has it's lock-up on it is able to keep the overheating stable but struggles to lower it. When you manually down shift or kick the transmission down from 4th gear you take away the lock-up's ability to apply as the transmission has to be in 4th for the lock-up circuit to remain open and then be going fast enough for the lock-up to apply, This is done at a set road speed when the transmission is in 4th. Keeping the lock-up on as long as possible keeps some sort of control on the temperature. How ever! While the transmission is in lock-up the cooler circuit is for the most part is shut down! Stupid Idea I hear you say? Well I thought so too but this was one of the design flaws that this transmission has. Changing down to second gear if going slow enough will also help with the heat but for a completely different reason, you are simply removing a lot of the load from the convertor that is generating the heat. This is as simple as when you are in 3rd and getting to the hill or towing you normally have the foot well and truly on the throttle but in second gear this is not the case as the engine is coping with the lower ratios and the foot is on the gas nowhere near as much, No Load = No Heat. And for anybody that is interested in my PERSONAL option, Towing in third gear with this transmission is Bull *hit! 4th is much better if you can maintain enough road speed to keep the lock-up on. It's not about jamming the lock-op on but simply about getting the most out of it.

Our Extreme Valve Body solves all of these problems and more by bring the oil flow through the coolers up from less than 500ML per minute to 4,800ML per minute. We also bring the lock-up in earlier if this is an option that is required but is not normally recommended for anything other than all heavy towing and V8 conversions. A large oil cooler is a must and I have seen many fitted with 2 large coolers. 3/8 cooler lines and fittings = a slightly higher oil flow. A Low stall convertor is also highly recommended for all petrol V8 conversions and the Super Low Stall for all Diesel Conversions. Our Extreme valve bodies do a great deal of other things but please read news releases for details.

Fitting a temp gauge is a fantastic Idea and you will soon learn (As you have in this case) what the transmission does and doesn't like. We sell a full temp gauge kit for $195Aus plus postage ( Trade and Club Rate) ( Yes! that means you! ) and comes complete with VDO's top of the range Gauge, Gauge mount that fully contains the gauge and is also able to pitch up and down, Wiring loom, Temp Sender, Change over cooler union that has already been drilled, tapped and has the sender fitted. We only ask that you post the old cooler union back so I can drill and tap it for the next person. I have this very gauge in my Land Cruiser and it works great. They come as either a Celsius or Fahrenheit gauge. The temperature sender should always be fitted to the outgoing cooler line ( Front union ) as this is the hottest part of the transmission, No good having them in the sump as this will tells you what you were doing 2 minutes ago. Sorry to all those that I have probably now upset that have them in the sump but at least it's better that not having one at all. ( That me being diplomatic ).

We recommend pulling over as soon as the temp light comes on as the transmission simply can not keep this up. The transmission will normally fail if this is allowed to continue, the pump seal is normally the first thing to go or the convertor has a melt down. When you pull over keep the engine running in park and lift the bonnet, the transmission will cool very quickly this way.

I would try our Extreme change over valve body before fitting a low stall convertor as the valve body can make such a difference that in half of all overheating cases the low stall is not needed. This does not include the diesel conversions as they have to be done or the diesel conversion would have been a complete wast of time. If you are starting a conversion than please fit both NOW! while you have the chance. You don't want to be pulling the transmission back out later to have the convertor modified.

I also like the synthetic transmission oil. In fact I like it a lot, I have seen many cases where a transmission has come in smelling so burnt but the oil that came out was in really good shape. It does Not solve the overheating but it does hold up under some incredibly hot temperature ranges.

By now you have had enough of me and are busting to go to the toilet, get a coffee or in my case being driven of by the kids wanting the computer back!

Cya!
Rodney
Wholesale Automatic Transmissions hot temperature ranges.

 

[lovetoski]

I'm pulling an airstream that should be pretty close to 3500lbs when completed. -
how often - I'd say 25% of the time I am in the vehicle - never more than 5,000 miles a year. (I rarely drive, I have too many bicycles to drive most places, Cinderella is mostly used for hauling crap and towing)

Once I get the truck home I'm going to get it looked over top to bottom - I'm dealing with all of the obvious problems before the move.

How involved is putting 4.88 Gears into the truck?

Thank you.

(ps - I am having a terribly time searching in this forum, I feel like there is a wealth of information on 4.88 gears, I just can't for the life of me find it - 4.88 brings up nothing - "gears" brings up 300ish pages)

Airstream's are cool. Airstream + LC = super cool....but as mentioned - slow.

Rodney's advice on maximising the life of your tranny is to keep it in 4th for towing, because lockup minimimes heat. For towing, you need to slow down, especially with a trailer at the max suggested towing weight.

I agree with Cruiserdrew, stock tires will be much better.

I just played with the online gear calculator

4Lo.com :: Final Gear Ratio, Crawl Ratio, Tire Size Calculators

Stock tires, stock gearing, 55 mph = 2000rpm.
Stock tires, 4.88 gears, 55 = 2300 rpm.

When you get to a hill, skip 3rd, just go to 2nd.

The extra tranny cooler + guage will be essential.

 

[ginericLC]

I don't often disagree with Cruiserdrew but I do on this. I had a 91 80 with 35" BFG MTs and stock gears. I towed with it, not as much as you are talking about on long distances, but I towed 2000 lbs or so on several long trips Western Idaho to Southern Colorado or to the Oregon coast. The truck had like 248k on it when I sold it and it never had a lick of problems with tranny. To my knowledge it is still going strong. My dad owned it before me and he towed with it too. He was probably pushing the 3000lb mark most of the time but only 150 mile trip. I ran in 3rd gear many of those towing miles. I changed my fluid probably more than I needed to and there was never any indication that it had run hot. I don't think this tranny (the A440) is at great risk with that kind of load as long as it doesn't get hot. A tranny gauge would be a good investment.

I do think that you'd have to be absolutely insane to do so though. The mighty 3FE was only 155 hp on a good day when it was new. You will struggle at the slightest hill. I remember once or twice in my 91 crawling up a hill in 1st gear. On a long trip this gets old. The only way I would even consider trying to use a 3FE powered Cruiser to tow is if I was at or near sea level and had no grades to pull. Some place like Kansas would probably be OK and then you better pray that you do not get a head wind. Towing a vacation trailer of this size is going to be stressful and it won't be a lot of fun. Personally I wouldn't be stressed about equipment failure but I'd be stressed about hills, wind, and how the vehicle handles. And this would take a lot of the fun out of the trip.

 

[jpeg]

I'm pulling an airstream that should be pretty close to 3500lbs when completed.

very cool! model & year? pic???

 

[Clack]

4Lo.com :: Final Gear Ratio, Crawl Ratio, Tire Size Calculators

Stock tires, stock gearing, 55 mph = 2000rpm.
Stock tires, 4.88 gears, 55 = 2300 rpm.

When you get to a hill, skip 3rd, just go to 2nd.

The extra tranny cooler + guage will be essential.

No, the lockup will still come on at 2,000 rpm in 4th. It doesn't know what rear dif, tire size or mph you're going.

I regeared to 4.56 when I went to 33's and that combo has me geared a little lower than stock in my 88 62. Speedo says 70, radar says 65. Even with this combo I won't tow my 3500 lb boat more than from the cabin to the lake. (1.2 mile) I regularly trip the dummy light just going up windy mountain highways where I'm back and forth between 3rd and 4th just with camping gear and a passenger. I've done the rodney flush and now will be adding an extra cooler but I wouldn't tow like you're planning to tow without a small block chevy/tranny combo. Like others have said, you'll blow the tranny or be living on pins and needles every mile. Not my idea of fun.