I don't understand why it wouldn't work.The elocker motor would be on the other side and shouldn't make a difference
Question about HYdro Assist Ram
- Thread starter Riad
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I don't understand why it wouldn't work.The elocker motor would be on the other side and shouldn't make a difference
Any chance this is the ram you have on back order?http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydrau...1-5X10X1-DA-HYD-CYL-SWIVEL-EYES-9-7258-10.axd
Thank you for the info.I did measure and came up with 10".But I was told that I shouldn't go with the max length because of the stress it would cause on the birfs at full lock/turn.I thought that was strange.I mean,I understand that there is more stress at full turn but I wouldn't think that you should limit the turning radius,just avoid hard throttle at full turn.Right?Does that make sense?
Yep I would limit throw as well if I was doing it.
...via IH8MUD app
...via IH8MUD app
You want the ram to be your 'steering stops', not those at the knuckle. If the ram's stroke exceeds the movement range of the knuckle, something is going to give, and it probably won't be the ram.
Bingo. FYI, they say it should be in stock in a couple weeks.
I am going 10" ram after hearing from several folks. Wrench and Mr. Jits have been very helpful answering all my silly questions.
I bought a adjustable mount for the tie rod end from , I am not planning on changing from stock (well I have a Slee tie rod) but not planning on changing to high steer arms.
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Synergy-Outer-Diameter-OD-Tube-Clamp-p-1727.html
I will test it to see if it hits the stops on the knuckles or the ram first. I agree the ram motion should limit the knuckle movement.
Thank you.That makes sense to me.You don't want to cause any undue stress on the knuckles caused by the ram being to long.
Ok that brings me to my next question.Using that particular ram wouldn't you need to cut and turn the end in order to keep the hoses facing up?Or do think there will be enough room with 90 degree fittings?Looks tight.
I am not using 90 degree fittings. Wrench thought they added too much resistance. You said cut and turn the end, I am confused what you mean. I am planning on orienting the mount of the static side of the ram such that the lines have clearance. It may be at slight angle, meaning the eye of the ball may not be centered on the static end, but I hope it will clear. If not, will have to add some 45 degree fittings. I bought 48" lines to ensure room, on advice from Wrench also, as they will be heading backwards and upwards.
Attached are pics from Wrench. I need to give another shout out to him, he has been so nice to take time to give me advice.
Attached are pics from Wrench. I need to give another shout out to him, he has been so nice to take time to give me advice.
Yes thanks for the pic.That is pretty much what I had in mind.And I just meant that the optimal way to set up that particular ram would be with the ports facing up instead of the rear (to avoid contact with the tie rod)and would require cutting and turning the static end.But looking at that pic it seems there may be just enough room.
Also got me to thinking that a ram using threaded ends would be more useful any how.Cause when/if the welded ends start to get sloppy you would have to replace the whole unit.But with the threaded ends it would be easy to replace and keep things tight.So I searched for threaded rams and found this one
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydrau...ers/2-25-X-9-75-X-0-875-DA-HYD-CYL-9-9973.axd
It also has 9.75" of throw which would be just about perfect to keep knuckles happy.The rod diameter is slightly less than the previous mentioned ram.Would it matter that much?And what psi is needed for most DIY ram asssit?This ram is rated up to 2500 psi where as the other is rated for 3000psi
Also got me to thinking that a ram using threaded ends would be more useful any how.Cause when/if the welded ends start to get sloppy you would have to replace the whole unit.But with the threaded ends it would be easy to replace and keep things tight.So I searched for threaded rams and found this one
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydrau...ers/2-25-X-9-75-X-0-875-DA-HYD-CYL-9-9973.axd
It also has 9.75" of throw which would be just about perfect to keep knuckles happy.The rod diameter is slightly less than the previous mentioned ram.Would it matter that much?And what psi is needed for most DIY ram asssit?This ram is rated up to 2500 psi where as the other is rated for 3000psi
I am not a hydro pro, so can't say up or down if that matters. I am confused on how you are going to attach the ends though. How much will it cost for you to buy heim ends to connect to your ram?
I figure if the ram ever gets so sloppy it goes bad, I will replace it. $100 and done.
I figure if the ram ever gets so sloppy it goes bad, I will replace it. $100 and done.
No Worries Onur. There's nothing like getting a little zinxed as motivation to work on the 80. I need to do bunch of stuff any way. Parts are sitting around all over the garage and in the house (for other small little PMs and stuff) that I've been putting off and they need to be installed. I needed a kick start.
I went through Kirk's thread again since I remembered after you mentioned about Kirk and found the following pix. This is exactly what I was thinking just couldn't put it in picture. So thanks for pointing me to the right direction
Is this a 10" ram? I am having problems finding the best place to mount my ram. Also, with this setup, can you pull your pumpkin out still?
After looking at this pic and measuring for my ram I believe it is a 10" ram.But that is just a guess really as I read through "kirk" build thread and seen no mention of the length
And it looks like you should be able to get the 3rd member out,but again its just my guess.Really wish he would chime in but I dont believe he frequents the forum anymore.I sent a pm and haven't got a response
When I get mine completed I will post lots of pics and details of my setup in hopes to help others that want hydro assist on a stock 80 series axle
Very good. I just got my ram in the mail this week. Will start working on the fixed end ram mount soon. Really hoping someone has some dimensions, otherwise I will sacrifice a cardboard box and start playing.
First thing to do is to remove the roll bar. I had forgot that I had put it back on, so glad to see it go.
Also, to your point about the position, I like how the ports are toward the rear, as this will allow the lines to go past the ram, turn and go down to the axle, leaving lots of room for flexing and extension and little risk of hitting the oilpan.
First thing to do is to remove the roll bar. I had forgot that I had put it back on, so glad to see it go.
Also, to your point about the position, I like how the ports are toward the rear, as this will allow the lines to go past the ram, turn and go down to the axle, leaving lots of room for flexing and extension and little risk of hitting the oilpan.
MOCKED UP
These are all at left lock position. (note I am using a collar clamp to limit throw on the right turn.
These are all at left lock position. (note I am using a collar clamp to limit throw on the right turn.
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Here is straight ahead wheel position.
right
Here is locked to the right.
At the point when the wheels are straight ahead, the tie rod is at the furthest point away from the axle center line. as you turn left or right, the angle increases and draws these two parrallel axis together. I am thinking that most pushing or pulling power will be done at this time, so I have mocked up the center point of the fixed end of the ram above the tie rod at the end of the turn.
I am thinking that I should push it out a little more away from the axle, such that it is centered above the axle when the wheel is turned halfway to left or right.
The end that attaches to the tie rod looks good, but tight. bottom clearances close, but fine. The only limiting factor is the shock. The ram nut will touch it if the tie rod is turned toward it. I am not thinking this to be an issue, but can always weld a protector on this.
Here is locked to the right.
At the point when the wheels are straight ahead, the tie rod is at the furthest point away from the axle center line. as you turn left or right, the angle increases and draws these two parrallel axis together. I am thinking that most pushing or pulling power will be done at this time, so I have mocked up the center point of the fixed end of the ram above the tie rod at the end of the turn.
I am thinking that I should push it out a little more away from the axle, such that it is centered above the axle when the wheel is turned halfway to left or right.
The end that attaches to the tie rod looks good, but tight. bottom clearances close, but fine. The only limiting factor is the shock. The ram nut will touch it if the tie rod is turned toward it. I am not thinking this to be an issue, but can always weld a protector on this.
Other notes, the ram end attachment is about 3/4 from the end which I am comfortable with as I have slee tie rod that does not have the taper like the OEM bar.
The socket you see at the end of the ram kept the position somewhat consistant.
The socket you see at the end of the ram kept the position somewhat consistant.
Excellent
I look forward to seeing the finished product.Thanks for all the pics too.It just makes it so much easier to understand what is going on.Looks like there is plenty of room also
I look forward to seeing the finished product.Thanks for all the pics too.It just makes it so much easier to understand what is going on.Looks like there is plenty of room also
