Puma 12V Compressor (2 Viewers)

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I bought one of these a few years ago, separated the compressor from the tank and stuffed them both inline in the empty rear fender of my 1st-gen 4Runner. I sold the rig a couple years ago and I've been missing this kick-ass compressor ever since. I finally broke down and bought a second one for my current rig.

It's sure nice to be able to fill all 4 of my tires faster than everyone else's "fast" compressor can fill 1 of theirs. :flipoff2: And I typically air down to half the pressure they do, because my Suzuki is so lightweight. It's great to be able to fill a tire so fast, you can watch the vehicle rise up! :cool:

This is truly the best bang for the buck out there. I bought both of mine through Buzzard Gulch (first time direct, second time through eBay with free shipping) and received great service both times.

My 10-gauge wire gets a bit warm after airing up my tires and all of my buddy's tires, but my 50-amp circuit breaker has no problem keeping up. I'd recommend using 8-gauge wire.
 
Looking for mounting ideas. I like the idea of having the compressor mounted in the engine bay with the tank underneath, but I'm a bit worried about the dirt that gets into my engine bay on a regular basis.

Does anyone have pictures or description of both parts of the unit mounted in the rear of their LC? I'm not against having it visible in the rear, but would be concerned with things hitting it or clothing/blankets/etc covering it by accident and heating up.
 
I wouldn't mount any compressor under the hood. My biggest concern is heat, it reduces performance and life. Just finished a mount to hold it over the wheel well.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/az-copper-state-cruisers/469746-update-aztony.html

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That's quite nice Tools! I assume it also holds your spare? The problem with a design like that for me is I have the JDM cargo cover that rolls back to hide everything below the window. I also don't have a 3rd row seat bolt spot on the wheel well.
 
asutherland said:
That's quite nice Tools! I assume it also holds your spare? The problem with a design like that for me is I have the JDM cargo cover that rolls back to hide everything below the window. I also don't have a 3rd row seat bolt spot on the wheel well.
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Yep, it was mainly made to be a spare holder. Before this it rode strapped down between the wheel well and tailgate on the US passenger side. It fits well there and is low profile.
 
Tools R Us said:
Yep, it was mainly made to be a spare holder. Before this it rode strapped down between the wheel well and tailgate on the US passenger side. It fits well there and is low profile.
Click to expand...

Funny, I spent a couple hours this weekend mulling over where to put it and how to fit it behind the rear cargo quarter panel. After several attempts I came to the conclusion that I couldn't fit it inside the quarter panel, and ended up bolting it down to the floor as one unit between the US passenger side (my driver side) wheel well and tailgate.

I drilled 2 3/8 holes through the 2 bars that hold the rubber feet, then through my cargo area floor, and used 2 3/8 bolts up through the cargo floor / carpet / and into the holes in the metal feet bars of the compressor tank. The holes we turned into oval slots so I could adjust the compressor mounting as I saw fit.

Now to wire it in... thinking 8 guage directly from the battery with an inline fuse of, 50 amps?
 
asutherland said:
Funny, I spent a couple hours this weekend mulling over where to put it and how to fit it behind the rear cargo quarter panel. After several attempts I came to the conclusion that I couldn't fit it inside the quarter panel, and ended up bolting it down to the floor as one unit between the US passenger side (my driver side) wheel well and tailgate.

I drilled 2 3/8 holes through the 2 bars that hold the rubber feet, then through my cargo area floor, and used 2 3/8 bolts up through the cargo floor / carpet / and into the holes in the metal feet bars of the compressor tank. The holes we turned into oval slots so I could adjust the compressor mounting as I saw fit.

Now to wire it in... thinking 8 guage directly from the battery with an inline fuse of, 50 amps?
Click to expand...

I think that would work...but maybe a 30 amp instead of a 50? just thinking out loud....would it pop a 30 under continuous load?
 
titanpat57 said:
I think that would work...but maybe a 30 amp instead of a 50? just thinking out loud....would it pop a 30 under continuous load?
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I have 8 gauge directly from the battery with an inline fuse of 60 amps. Should work nicely :)

Will take pics of the setup later tomorrow. Nothing crazy, just simple!
 
What does the manual say?
 
asutherland said:
Absolutely nothing useful :meh:
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Hmm... the manual that came with my puma said to run it in with no load. Can't recall if it was for 10 or 20 minutes, and the manual's long gone. Sorry.
 
I believe the compressor pulls 62 amps at start-up. The safest way to wire this is with #4 not #8. If you want to just get by at least use #6. Remember you need to take into account the voltage drop from the run from the battery to the compressor. If mounting near the battery you can probably squeek by with #8.

The way I will be wiring mine is the same as another user. #4 wire, 100a relay and 80a breaker. A bit overkill? Yes, but its electrical, there is no good reason to not use overkill.
 
rsbmg said:
I believe the compressor pulls 62 amps at start-up. The safest way to wire this is with #4 not #8. If you want to just get by at least use #6. Remember you need to take into account the voltage drop from the run from the battery to the compressor. If mounting near the battery you can probably squeek by with #8.

The way I will be wiring mine is the same as another user. #4 wire, 100a relay and 80a breaker. A bit overkill? Yes, but its electrical, there is no good reason to not use overkill.
Click to expand...

Curious where you come up with 62A. I tested the draw with a 100A shunt and saw 30A (advertised name plate with no load) at start up and 50A prior to shut off. I do agree with #4 for best results, that is what I used.:)
 
Of course efficiency and PF is not taken into account since I dont know that but I figure since its not know, or at least I dont know what it is then no since in trying to guess. The simple calculation will be totally overkill as I said but again, why not? You will save a few buck on wire and lower amp protection but not enough to worry about trying to skimp.

Again, you can get away with less I just dont know what the reason would be for skimping.
 
rsbmg said:
1Hp = 746 Watts
---------------- = 62.16 AMPS
12v
Click to expand...
For old motor designs only... It depends allot on motor design. Startup current also depends allot on design. Soft start circuits can even drop it below normal run current. I doubt this has a really good soft start circuit.

BTW, if it has 30 Amps initial run and 50A at the end, then 60A startup current wouldn't be out of line. Thankfully that is for less than a few seconds.
 
The circuit may certainly never hit 62amps, thats just the most basic calculation which you would be 100% safe using.

I look at using 8ga wire sort of like running 37 inch tires on a dana 30 axle. You can in some cases get away with it but why chance it :)
 
My friend (who's an electrical engineer) measured the current using his fluke current meter (I think that's what it's called) over the wire during startup, while empty and filling, and while filling one of my tires. The most it ever hit was 38 amps.

By the way, compressor works awesome. Aired up my 35" 's from 18 to 45 psi in just over 3 minutes per tire! :)
 
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