Puma 12V Compressor (2 Viewers)

[Rigpig]

My friend (who's an electrical engineer) measured the current using his fluke current meter (I think that's what it's called) over the wire during startup, while empty and filling, and while filling one of my tires. The most it ever hit was 38 amps.

By the way, compressor works awesome. Aired up my 35" 's from 18 to 45 psi in just over 3 minutes per tire!

Don't forget that #8awg is rated for 45amps, and you need to protect your conductor, so i'd put a smaller fuse on that thing, defenitely not a 60amp brkr. Can't wait to see it in action, and we should do a comparison to my 24volt unit.

 

[bj70_guy]

Don't forget that #8awg is rated for 45amps, and you need to protect your conductor, so i'd put a smaller fuse on that thing, defenitely not a 60amp brkr. Can't wait to see it in action, and we should do a comparison to my 24volt unit.

You've got a 24V Puma?!

 

[Rigpig]

Yeah there on all the shovels that we build, like the one in my avatar. I had an extra one ordered for myself.

 

[rsbmg]

If you are only reading 38 amps the plate data is obviously misleading because its not pushing a full 1 horsepower. Chinese

 

[Tools R Us]

If you are only reading 38 amps the plate data is obviously misleading because its not pushing a full 1 horsepower. Chinese

Why would it matter? The amp draw will depend on delivered voltage, wire gauge, length, etc. Most tool companies (even American) have misstated HP, CFM delivered, tool consumption, etc, nothing new, has been going on pretty much forever.

I have no doubt that it will never deliver to the stated specs, but nether will any other brand. For me it's about needed performance and it delivers what is need for me on the trail, airs up my tires quickly, runs the air tools that I want to run, works for blowing dust out of the rig, etc.

Mine ran fine for ~5yrs on 20' of 10 gauge landscape wire. Now is hardwired with ~12' of 6 gauge and a 80A fuse, works somewhat better. IMHO it is the best bang for the buck and has proven to be durable.

 

[titanpat57]

Why would it matter? The amp draw will depend on delivered voltage, wire gauge, length, etc. Most tool companies (even American) have misstated HP, CFM delivered, tool consumption, etc, nothing new, has been going on pretty much forever.

I have no doubt that it will never deliver to the stated specs, but nether will any other brand. For me it's about needed performance and it delivers what is need for me on the trail, airs up my tires quickly, runs the air tools that I want to run, works for blowing dust out of the rig, etc.

Mine ran fine for ~5yrs on 20' of 10 gauge landscape wire. Now is hardwired with ~12' of 6 gauge and a 80A fuse, works somewhat better. IMHO it is the best bang for the buck and has proven to be durable.

Looking forward to adding this tool to the fleet....

 

[rsbmg]

Why would it matter? The amp draw will depend on delivered voltage, wire gauge, length, etc. Most tool companies (even American) have misstated HP, CFM delivered, tool consumption, etc, nothing new, has been going on pretty much forever.

I have no doubt that it will never deliver to the stated specs, but nether will any other brand. For me it's about needed performance and it delivers what is need for me on the trail, airs up my tires quickly, runs the air tools that I want to run, works for blowing dust out of the rig, etc.

Mine ran fine for ~5yrs on 20' of 10 gauge landscape wire. Now is hardwired with ~12' of 6 gauge and a 80A fuse, works somewhat better. IMHO it is the best bang for the buck and has proven to be durable.

Why does it matter? I guess if your truck was rated at 300hp you would be ok if it really only had 150 hp so long as you could drive 55 because thats all you need. Good luck!

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Why does it matter? I guess if your truck was rated at 300hp you would be ok if it really only had 150 hp so long as you could drive 55 because thats all you need. Good luck!

And you own what compressor again?

Thats what I thought

 

[rsbmg]

I own the Puma compressor (not yet installed) I'm not sure I get it but as long as you do

 

[rsbmg]

Why would it matter? The amp draw will depend on delivered voltage, wire gauge, length, etc. Most tool companies (even American) have misstated HP, CFM delivered, tool consumption, etc, nothing new, has been going on pretty much forever.

I have no doubt that it will never deliver to the stated specs, but nether will any other brand. For me it's about needed performance and it delivers what is need for me on the trail, airs up my tires quickly, runs the air tools that I want to run, works for blowing dust out of the rig, etc.

Mine ran fine for ~5yrs on 20' of 10 gauge landscape wire. Now is hardwired with ~12' of 6 gauge and a 80A fuse, works somewhat better. IMHO it is the best bang for the buck and has proven to be durable.

Just wanted to let you know 6ga wire is good for a max of 50 amps depending on length of your run so your wire will burn up and catch fire long before you ever pop your 80a fuse.

 

[Bogo]

Just wanted to let you know 6ga wire is good for a max of 50 amps depending on length of your run so your wire will burn up and catch fire long before you ever pop your 80a fuse.

All depends on the speed of the fuse. I put 200+ Amps through a 22 AWG wire, but then I do that for less than half a second. In reality, 80 Amps in a 6 AWG wire will cook the insulation and make it brittle long before it's time, but likely won't ignite it.

 

[rsbmg]

There are variables in electrical wring but there are wiring charts for a reason and to go with the "it works" theory of wiring is not a best practice. It's not my vehicle or compressor so won't affect me but just wanted to make people aware there are resources available to assist you in doing things the right way.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

There are variables in electrical wring but there are wiring charts for a reason and to go with the "it works" theory of wiring is not a best practice. It's not my vehicle or compressor so won't affect me but just wanted to make people aware there are resources available to assist you in doing things the right way.

With that said you should get familiar with Article 310 of the N.E.C. (National Electric Code) and you will see that #8 cu depending on temperature, insulation, and installation can be rated from 40A to 140A.

 

[Bogo]

I was just telling him that it would premature age the insulation. My personal feeling is a wire shouldn't be called on to carry greater than 50% of its rated capacity.

BTW, if the wire goes through the engine compartment it needs a higher temperature rating than normal for it's insulation.

 

[Tools R Us]

I'm well aware of the "ideal amp charts" on the net, also have done some automotive wiring work, so aware of what works, is common practice, in the real world. Starters can easily draw 200A, how many manufactures use 2/0 primary wire to them? ... None.

The fuse that I'm using is a Toyota factory fuse, was harvested from a '90ish mini truck. It's use was to protect the main white circuit, alt, main power supply. The wire attached to it was ~8-10G (metric) and Toyota intended the fuse to protect that wire.

The wire that I'm using is 6G fine strand welding wire, with a double insulation. I have zero doubt that it could be shorted to ground and would blow the fuse before the wire even got warm. Have seen several incidents on the stock setup where the alt was disconnected without disconnecting the battery, shorted out and blew the fuse, as intended, with the stock smaller wire. For my use the fuse is not to protect the compressor, it is to protect the truck from the 6G wire run, possible direct short.

As I mentioned; mine ran fine for ~5yrs on 20' of 10 gauge landscape wire, so effectively a 40' run. It worked, but the wire would get warm and was not the most efficient. On the trip to Utah, with the new setup, it aired up rigs everyday (8) and did a couple of trail repairs. After extended run time, the wire wasn't detectably warmer than when at rest, works very well.

The wire that I used: RADAFLEX® #6 AWG Black Welding Cable

 

[Tools R Us]

I was just telling him that it would premature age the insulation.

Will keep an eye on it, but isn't a problem, runs it cool.

My personal feeling is a wire shouldn't be called on to carry greater than 50% of its rated capacity.

To be comfortable, likely need to rewire the whole rig, that isn't the way manufactures do it.

BTW, if the wire goes through the engine compartment it needs a higher temperature rating than normal for it's insulation.

Agree, needs to be rated for the temp, oil resistance, etc, the wire that I'm using easily meets/exceeds the need.

 

[rsbmg]

As I stated many variables in wiring I'm speaking more in generalities which is safer than just throwing some speaker wire you found in your grandpas garage on something to connect a circuit. Use what you like but for those reading this thread investigate how to wire properly and don't go off the well it works so it must be ok theory. There is a right way and a wrong way, period.

 

[NZ-CHCH-Cruiser]

with the current new zealand dollar being so strong with the US dollar.

is there any way i can get just the pump an ask one nice member to shipp it back to nz.

 

[Tools R Us]

Have you contacted Buzzard Gulch Tools Homepage to see if they will sell/ship you one directly?

 

[azTony]

Hmm... the manual that came with my puma said to run it in with no load. Can't recall if it was for 10 or 20 minutes, and the manual's long gone. Sorry.

The manual says:

7-5: Open the air receiver outlet valve and start the unit for no load operation. Allow the unit to operate for a minimum of five minutes in no load condition.

7-6: After running the compressor for five minutes, close the valve and allow the unit to reach maximum operating pressure. Ensure that the compressor shuts down at the preset maximum pressure and the head pressure is released through the pressure switch.