Pulling a 14.5' Jayco Baja trailer.

[Beagle]

I'm retired from 30 yrs. in the RV business. Everything from Class A motorhomes to travel trailers. You don't really need a WD hitch for your trailer BUT most come with anti-sway bars and those ARE a desired feature. IF your brake control has a manual feature you can use it to help control/stop sway if any should start.

If loaded properly...your trailer likely won't give you any trouble but crosswinds and large vehicles passing by can push the trailer enough to get it started. It's best NOT to use your tow vehicle brakes if this happens. Just get off the throttle and lightly apply your trailer brakes (if you have a manual feature) until things get under control. Biggest thing is NOT to exceed 60-65 mph. This is the #1 thing we see folks do and get into trouble. Take your time, enjoy the scenery and be safe.

So, I need to get ant-sway bars it sounds like. What you're saying is that WD hitches come with sway bars so therefore I should just go ahead and get the WD hitch for the sway control? It's just an all-in-one sorta thing or can I buy just an ant-sway bar? Sorry, but I won't pretend I'm experienced with this. Thanks for sharing your experience!

 

[Skidoo]

Going up I25 has its drawbacks, Cheyenne is known for being windy, they have some bad days each year where winds can be 60mph. Going north before turning west you still have mountains to cross just further west. If you are looking for flatter google's standard routing does a pretty good job. Albuquerque, Cortez, Moab, I would take I70 west to I15 then north, rather than 6 to SLC, Boise, (Portland or Seattle). That being said if you take it easy, any way you go will be fine for your Cruiser. Lots of great scenery to see so pick route based on what you want to see, that will make the wife happy. And remember we bought a Land Cruiser for where it can take us. And if you go through Cheyenne area check the weather before.

 

[mep1811]

This video is good illustration of how tongue weight is critical in having a stable trailer.



Don't be afraid to downshift on down hills to keep you speed down and not overheat the brakes. With airbags , I don't think you will need a WD hitch.

 

[Beagle]

Mine pulled up right away, I just selected trans temp and moved it to my dashboard.

Might be a pro vs free feature, or might have been a patch or update but I'd check it again if you want to use the feature.

Update-I was able to find and download an add-on for Fusion and now have a gauge with AT Fluid Temp. I know there's another AT thing I should have but this is better than nothing I think. What's the ideal temp to keep it under when towing?

EDIT: Not sure if the AT fluid temp reads correctly. I just drove around without the trailer on moderate hills for 20 min at 11pm. Temp ranged from 140-180f. That 180 sounds hot to me.

I can't believe I got that loaded. Not even sure how I did it. I might have hacked something maybe....

 

[ZREM]

Like everyone said, you will do just fine. I live in CO and frequent the big passes towing my 19' Jayco. It's slow going, but we have always gotten there drama free.

I picked up a WD and sway control hitch from etrailer that has done me well.

 

[planomateo]

As already said, if you're I25 from Colorado to Montana, you don't really hit any major passes. Long gradual climbs in Wyoming.

I90 across Montana you will hit some small passes. Butte will be the worst if you're going that far.

I'd be more worried about getting a spot at a campsite.

 

[flintknapper]

So, I need to get ant-sway bars it sounds like. What you're saying is that WD hitches come with sway bars so therefore I should just go ahead and get the WD hitch for the sway control? It's just an all-in-one sorta thing or can I buy just an ant-sway bar? Sorry, but I won't pretend I'm experienced with this. Thanks for sharing your experience!

Your trailer is not very large and probably doesn't put too much tongue weight on your vehicle (if loaded properly) so you wouldn't need a Weight Distributing Hitch (IMO). Sway bars are available separately and can be installed singularly or in pairs. Most are adjustable friction type. The only drawback to them is that you'll need to disconnect it if you find a tight parking space at a campsite and need to turn sharply when backing up. Otherwise, just leave it hooked up.

Typical reason/application/experience:

 

[ramangain]

Update-I was able to find and download an add-on for Fusion and now have a gauge with AT Fluid Temp. I know there's another AT thing I should have but this is better than nothing I think. What's the ideal temp to keep it under when towing?

EDIT: Not sure if the AT fluid temp reads correctly. I just drove around without the trailer on moderate hills for 20 min at 11pm. Temp ranged from 140-180f. That 180 sounds hot to me.

I can't believe I got that loaded. Not even sure how I did it. I might have hacked something maybe....

Those temps are "normal" for your tranny. Most folks on here will recommend to try and keep the tranny temps at or below 175F.

If you are unsure as to the health of your tranny fluid, you can perform a DIY tranny fluid exchange by following this excellent post: 4spd tranny fluid exchange DIY. Walmart actually has the cheapest source of the tranny fluid if you can wait for the delivery. The other part you may not have handy is clear tubing for the tranny fluid extraction, which is 3/8" ID. All of the other tools needed are very basic.

 

[Beagle]

Your trailer is not very large and probably doesn't put too much tongue weight on your vehicle (if loaded properly) so you wouldn't need a Weight Distributing Hitch (IMO). Sway bars are available separately and can be installed singularly or in pairs. Most are adjustable friction type. The only drawback to them is that you'll need to disconnect it if you find a tight parking space at a campsite and need to turn sharply when backing up. Otherwise, just leave it hooked up.

Typical reason/application/experience:

Ok sounds like it's worth it! Mostly when I search sway bars, I get back results for WD hitches. Anti sway kits yield better results but look like they hook up to a WD hitches....or incomplete like I need to already have something.

Are there any simple anti-sway set-ups that you can recommend specifically?

For example: is this what I'm looking for and is this complete?

Camco Sway Control - Left

Minimize the sway while you're trailering that's caused by passing trucks and sudden wind gusts.

www.campingworld.com

Thank you!

 

[flintknapper]

Ok sounds like it's worth it! Mostly when I search sway bars, I get back results for WD hitches. Anti sway kits yield better results but look like they hook up to a WD hitches....or incomplete like I need to already have something.

Are there any simple anti-sway set-ups that you can recommend specifically?

For example: is this what I'm looking for and is this complete?

Camco Sway Control - Left

Minimize the sway while you're trailering that's caused by passing trucks and sudden wind gusts.

www.campingworld.com

Thank you!

^^^^
That is the exact unit we installed on a bazillion trailers.

For your application you'll need an adapter to go on your trailer ball hitch (a point to attach the sway bar to). Or have a tab welded on to your hitch. Be sure to get extra 'hair pin' clips for your sway bar...because I guarantee you....you'll misplace them sooner or later.

***Remember the sway bars come in a left and right.

Amazon product ASIN B003VAX5NA

 

[ramangain]

If you properly set up and use your trailer brake controller, you may not need to worry about anti-sway technology. You won't be getting close to the max tow capacity of the Hundy.

However, you may want to check out some airbag spring helpers for the rear springs, especially if you are on stock/older springs. For $100, it is a DIY job with some PB Blaster for stuck bolts and a good jack to hold up the rear axle. While you are in there, you can also choose to install beefier rear springs if you so choose.

Airlift rear airbag helpers for rear springs

I use these on my 01 LX and they really help a lot when I don't use my WD/AS hitch.

Good rule of thumb when towing is to slow down or stop when things get sketchy, whether from getting tense/tired, bad weather, etc. I also find that if I can stay behind a semi doing 60-65mph, things are a lot better when towing a loaded 16x8 enclosed trailer.

 

[Beagle]

If you properly set up and use your trailer brake controller, you may not need to worry about anti-sway technology. You won't be getting close to the max tow capacity of the Hundy.

However, you may want to check out some airbag spring helpers for the rear springs, especially if you are on stock/older springs. For $100, it is a DIY job with some PB Blaster for stuck bolts and a good jack to hold up the rear axle. While you are in there, you can also choose to install beefier rear springs if you so choose.

Airlift rear airbag helpers for rear springs

I use these on my 01 LX and they really help a lot when I don't use my WD/AS hitch.

Good rule of thumb when towing is to slow down or stop when things get sketchy, whether from getting tense/tired, bad weather, etc. I also find that if I can stay behind a semi doing 60-65mph, things are a lot better when towing a loaded 16x8 enclosed trailer.

Right on! Already have the airlift system in the rig. Love it! Took away that ugly sag too. Makes it feel A LOT more stable as well. Glad I went with that rather than a whole new suspension system. Super easy to inflate deflate as well!

 

[Beagle]

^^^^
That is the exact unit we installed on a bazillion trailers.

For your application you'll need an adapter to go on your trailer ball hitch (a point to attach the sway bar to). Or have a tab welded on to your hitch. Be sure to get extra 'hair pin' clips for your sway bar...because I guarantee you....you'll misplace them sooner or later.

***Remember the sway bars come in a left and right.

Amazon product ASIN B003VAX5NA

Great! Thank you!

 

[suprarx7nut]

I think you've already got good advice here, but in general , don't sweat it. Go slow, don't be afraid to pace with the big rigs on the passes, even if that means you're going 25mph for 15 minutes on the tough stretches.

I've towed a good amount with my 99 and it's all been drama free. The most memorable part is just how slow you'll be forced to go on the passes. Full throttle I've been limited to ~20-25 mph multiple times. The truck can only pull so much.

Be very slow and cautious on downhills and use pull offs as needed. These vehicles are tough. They're meant to tow and they can handle it.

 

[AlpineAccess]

Those trans temps seem fine - I run between 150-180. Highest I have ever seen was 203* and lasted for less than a minute. The aux transmission cooler on the 100 is really big. If you give it a good cleaning with the hose to get the bugs out, and make sure your fluid is good to go I don't see how the transmission is ever an issue. They are brutes so long as you keep O/D off and the temps in line.

At over 220 the fluid will degrade if you keep running hard for a long time. Around 240* you'll start to get varnishing. Again, its a boatload of fluid in these autos, and would require continued abuse at these temps to cause lasting problems.

 

[Eyedaho]

Like everyone else said, take it slow and you'll be fine. Two other little things that you probably already know: Don't forget how tall your trailer is! It's easy to forget and pull into a drive through or something like that. Secondly, remember that anywhere you pull into you may have to back out of. That can become relevant when driving around in the woods looking for dry camping. It's easy to pull down a winding track through the trees or wherever, then hit a dead end and have to back your trailer out. Just a couple things to keep in mind that I'm sure you're already aware of. Safe travels.

 

[Beagle]

Those trans temps seem fine - I run between 150-180. Highest I have ever seen was 203* and lasted for less than a minute. The aux transmission cooler on the 100 is really big. If you give it a good cleaning with the hose to get the bugs out, and make sure your fluid is good to go I don't see how the transmission is ever an issue. They are brutes so long as you keep O/D off and the temps in line.

At over 220 the fluid will degrade if you keep running hard for a long time. Around 240* you'll start to get varnishing. Again, its a boatload of fluid in these autos, and would require continued abuse at these temps to cause lasting problems.

Yeah I just drove for an hour to pick up some solar stuff. 100 degree heat. On the Hwy it showed 162-167 degrees in AT Fulid and then at stop lights it would be around 170-175. That doesn't sound too TOO bad....Thanks!

 

[Beagle]

Like everyone else said, take it slow and you'll be fine. Two other little things that you probably already know: Don't forget how tall your trailer is! It's easy to forget and pull into a drive through or something like that. Secondly, remember that anywhere you pull into you may have to back out of. That can become relevant when driving around in the woods looking for dry camping. It's easy to pull down a winding track through the trees or wherever, then hit a dead end and have to back your trailer out. Just a couple things to keep in mind that I'm sure you're already aware of. Safe travels.

Good point! And this thing IS kinda tall! Thanks again!

 

[Beagle]

^^^^
That is the exact unit we installed on a bazillion trailers.

For your application you'll need an adapter to go on your trailer ball hitch (a point to attach the sway bar to). Or have a tab welded on to your hitch. Be sure to get extra 'hair pin' clips for your sway bar...because I guarantee you....you'll misplace them sooner or later.

***Remember the sway bars come in a left and right.

Amazon product ASIN B003VAX5NA

Great! Weird question. Is there a reason there's a Left vs a Right? I know there's probably a really easy answer and I'm just not seeing it.

 

[flintknapper]

Great! Weird question. Is there a reason there's a Left vs a Right? I know there's probably a really easy answer and I'm just not seeing it.

There is no reason to MOUNT one either left or right but there are left and right versions owing to the construction. The ball that mounts to your trailer tongue is horizontal, the ball that mounts to your hitch is vertical (90° opposed) so you can't swap the sway bar side to side. Some folks use/need two sway bars (one on each side) to control larger trailers. Hence a left and a right.