PTO Winch Removal (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Apr 24, 2023
Threads
14
Messages
54
Location
Collingwood, Ontario CANADA
Looking for help regarding my OEM PTO winch. I have recently purchased a 1983 BJ40. I am not overly familiar with the winch operation. Unfortunately, the winch is no longer operational due to a failure of the entire unit. The winch case has blown out along with its gears etc. It’s a bit of a long story, however, I need to remove and/or disconnect the PTO so it does not spin the driveshaft to the transfer case. The winch is currently locked up in the “engaged” position. I can’t seem to unlock or disengage the unit using the pull pin. When I try to drive the vehicle there is a lot of “chatter” coming from transfer case as the winch along with the PTO and transfer case are still trying to engage the winch.

I do not believe there is a neutral position on the winch lever? It’s either wind or unwind?

As the vehicle sits now, I cannot drive it more than 20 MPH before things get noisy!

Any guidance about how to disengage the winch or disconnect the PTO etc would be appreciated! My plan is to fully remove the winch however would like to drive it before getting to the removal.

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There should be u-joints in the winch drive shaft to un-hook it. Most PTO are held on my a few bolts - remove the unit and install the cover plate that units that don't have a pto use.

The only pto I spent much time with was on my deuce and half. The pto lever was in or out of engage, the direction was controlled by the tranny - first was pull in, reverse was spool out
 
The PTO winch can either spooled or unspooled under power. The lever on the winch allows this to happen. The lever in the cab is for disengaging the winch from the transfer case. Moving this lever should disengage the PTO from the transfer case/transmission. If you can't move this lever there might be bigger issues.

Another option would be to pull the sheer pin however the PTO shaft would keep spinning. Not a preferred option.

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The winch head appears to have blown up from being engaged while driving. The winch is only to be operated with the transfercase in nuetral. Its bound up right now. Put the transfer in nuetral, this should relieve presure on the winch head. Then try to release the lever on the winch to disengage the spool. Then you can start unbolting the winch head( 4 bolts) then the shear pin needs to be driven out of the spud shaft. If your not going to use it or fix it, simply remove the pto box from the transfercase and replace with an original cover.
 
Because the lever you have to operate the PTO is older than what a 83 had hard to say what your whole set is.

This is what the 40 series PTO shifter looks like from 10/82 on.
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You have to push both the button on top and the front to operate the PTO.

Have you tried to spin the PTO driveshaft from underneath? Trans case and transmission both in neutral you should be able to turn the driveshaft by hand. Because the PTO gear slides onto the transmission output shaft putting the transfer case in neutral will not allow it spin with the transmission in gear. If you can then spin the driveshaft by hand and the winch drum doesn't move you most likely have a broken shear pin. That is supposed to do before damaging the winch or PTO. Problem is because that breaks so easy not common for it to be drilled out and heavy bolt used. If the shear pin has snapped you are going to have to manually move the color on the passenger side of the drum away from the drum the knob on the arm to me the collar is spring loaded and need to up and put of the hole it's locked in. Something skinny and flat would work if the if you can't disengage the drum with the arm.
 
I'm not sure about this Toyota model winch, but I'd still stuck in a wash out on the side of some mountain in the Black Forest - if I couldn't Engauge All Three Axles in low range low and pull with the deuce and a half's pto winch plus using a snatch block to double my pull. The secret allen wrench instead of the issue worthless aluminum shear pin, makes a world of difference - when push comes to shove, not recommended for use by idiots.

Usually Pto lever's have a "safety" latch at the floor that needs to be flipped up so the lever can move - lift up the bottom of the boot and look some type of lock out.
 
Usually Pto lever's have a "safety" latch at the floor that needs to be flipped up so the lever can move - lift up the bottom of the boot and look some type of lock out.

This one does have the hinge lock in the picture. That style ended 1/79. 1/79-10/82 used a wing nut to hold the plate in place. It would slid in and out. Never seen that style in person. It used a cable between the lever and PTO. Lever used a bracket mount to the side of the transmission tunnel. Earlier and later mounted to the transmission.

This is a 83 BJ40 from Italy. Been restored so hard to say what was on it originally and what from a different year or model. A complete model number would help. The transmission boot looks wrong for 83. Because it's a BJ40 not a BJ42 really need a model number.
 
The winch head appears to have blown up from being engaged while driving. The winch is only to be operated with the transfercase in nuetral. Its bound up right now. Put the transfer in nuetral, this should relieve presure on the winch head. Then try to release the lever on the winch to disengage the spool. Then you can start unbolting the winch head( 4 bolts) then the shear pin needs to be driven out of the spud shaft. If your not going to use it or fix it, simply remove the pto box from the transfercase and replace with an original cover.
This is exactly what happened. The winch was unknowingly engaged when I drove it for the first time. The hook from the cable was clipped on to the winch itself. I’m surprised that the shear pin didn’t save the unit. Instead the front of the winch blew out. Very sad about what happened. It’s quite cold here now where I live but in the coming days I will try all suggestions put forward to disengage the spool. My vehicle is registered as a 1983 but I have come to learn that its production date is Dec 1980. Not sure if this matches the PTO lever etc.
 
Because the lever you have to operate the PTO is older than what a 83 had hard to say what your whole set is.

This is what the 40 series PTO shifter looks like from 10/82 on.
View attachment 3476116
You have to push both the button on top and the front to operate the PTO.

Have you tried to spin the PTO driveshaft from underneath? Trans case and transmission both in neutral you should be able to turn the driveshaft by hand. Because the PTO gear slides onto the transmission output shaft putting the transfer case in neutral will not allow it spin with the transmission in gear. If you can then spin the driveshaft by hand and the winch drum doesn't move you most likely have a broken shear pin. That is supposed to do before damaging the winch or PTO. Problem is because that breaks so easy not common for it to be drilled out and heavy bolt used. If the shear pin has snapped you are going to have to manually move the color on the passenger side of the drum away from the drum the knob on the arm to me the collar is spring loaded and need to up and put of the hole it's locked in. Something skinny and flat would work if the if you can't disengage the drum with the arm.
The shear pin certainly did not help me here. It should have but instead the front side of the winch blew out - gears and all. :(. At the moment I don’t think it can be repaired but have not yet crawled under the vehicle to have a better look at it. Will do this soon. There was a lot of clatter coming from under the vehicle when driving it. Pretty sure it was resonating down the PTO shafts to the transfer case. Once I can get things in neutral for the shafts, I will be able to see if any additional damage was caused. Sure hope not.
 
This one does have the hinge lock in the picture. That style ended 1/79. 1/79-10/82 used a wing nut to hold the plate in place. It would slid in and out. Never seen that style in person. It used a cable between the lever and PTO. Lever used a bracket mount to the side of the transmission tunnel. Earlier and later mounted to the transmission.

This is a 83 BJ40 from Italy. Been restored so hard to say what was on it originally and what from a different year or model. A complete model number would help. The transmission boot looks wrong for 83. Because it's a BJ40 not a BJ42 really need a model number.
Here’s the data plate.

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If the shear pin didn't snapped good chance the original shear pin was replaced with a bolt with a harder tensal strength or drilled out to a larger size.

You can unbolt the driveshaft at the PTO. Remove the short flange U-Joint section right at the PTO. Then wire the remaining shaft up out of the way. Should make it drivable unless there is damage in the PTO or transfer case.

If you think you PTO only has forward and reverse there is a good change you have a single direction PTO. 11/84 60 series changed to that style. 70 series which started on that date were all single direction. Forward is neutral and back the PTO is engaged. All of these single direction have the shift arm on the front of the PTO. Only the 10/82 and later had the shift are on the front and were direction. 60 series changed to the single direction and the few 40 series made after 10/84 continued with the two direction. Pictures of you PTO and driveshaft would probably help with what you have.
 
UPDATE…..

So I have confirmed that the entire winch assembly has been destroyed. It seems that the shear pin did not protect the unit. Likely had the wrong pin in it. I was able to shift the transfer case in to neutral so that the vehicle is drivable. The long PTO driveshaft is bent. The U-Joint between the PTO unit and the short shaft has been severed. Unsure about the condition of the shorter shaft as it’s covered by a crash plate. Transfer case seems ok. It’s quite amazing how much damage was caused by this event. I plan to remove the winch and maybe (eventually) replace the winch with another period correct one. Not sure what’s in the market for such a used piece? May need the long and short PTO shafts as well. Attached are a few pictures.

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Have you determined if you have a two direction or single direction PTO? If the PTO is still good and a single direction that exposed worm gear in the winch is the one used with the single direction if it matches the PTO. The two direction the PTO gear was always engaged with the PTO gear in the transfer case. It used a small idler gear to draw the cable in. Single direction didn't use an idler gear and cables in the opposite direction. The direct gear to gear in the PTO was cable out in the two direction PTO. So for the cable draw in on all forward gears in the transmission the worm gear in the winch has to match the PTO. At this point would not be trashing anything if you plan to install a PTO winch again. Because of how slow the driveshaft rotates is does have to be perfectly balanced. Just straighten the driveshaft it would probably okay. I joints and bearings need to be in good condition.

This is a late 40 PTO driveshaft.
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Uses these two brackets on a 10/82+ 40 series.
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There should be two sets of four fixed nuts on the left frame rail for this brackets even if no PTO was installed at the factory even if a winch wasn't. Larger pattern towards the front.
 
Have you determined if you have a two direction or single direction PTO? If the PTO is still good and a single direction that exposed worm gear in the winch is the one used with the single direction if it matches the PTO. The two direction the PTO gear was always engaged with the PTO gear in the transfer case. It used a small idler gear to draw the cable in. Single direction didn't use an idler gear and cables in the opposite direction. The direct gear to gear in the PTO was cable out in the two direction PTO. So for the cable draw in on all forward gears in the transmission the worm gear in the winch has to match the PTO. At this point would not be trashing anything if you plan to install a PTO winch again. Because of how slow the driveshaft rotates is does have to be perfectly balanced. Just straighten the driveshaft it would probably okay. I joints and bearings need to be in good condition.

This is a late 40 PTO driveshaft.
View attachment 3477346
Uses these two brackets on a 10/82+ 40 series.
View attachment 3477345
There should be two sets of four fixed nuts on the left frame rail for this brackets even if no PTO was installed at the factory even if a winch wasn't. Larger pattern towards the front.
Thanks for the guidance. It is a 2 direction PTO. I would like to replace the winch if I can. Not sure what’s in the market at the moment. Plan to remove the destroyed winch soon. I think the long PTO shaft can be straightened which would be good.
 

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