Proper POR-15 Process for exterior? (1 Viewer)

[robotriot]

Hey guys!

I have noticed some small rust spots around the car, and I want to figure out how to protect it while I save up money for a real paint job (among other things)... After doing some research and realizing a solid paint job can range from 3-10k (or more) I realize that my best course of action is to prevent the rust and touch up the small spots.

Anyway, reading through the POR-15 docs, I realize that it's super sun-sensitive and it SEEMS they recommend to apply High Build Primer on top of the POR-15 Bonding Coat before applying touch-up paint....

So I was wondering if this process made sense / was ill advised:

1) Take a wire brush to the rust spot(s)
2) Apply POR-15 Bonding coat
3) Let that dry
4) Apply POR-15 High Build Primer
5) Let dry
6) Apply touch-up code-matching paint

I realize this isn't going to look AMAZING, but I just want to protect it and have it looking *solid* until i can afford something nicer. Can post pics soon.

 

[Shes Mad]

I’d skip the por for exterior. Just the basics

Clean/sand/wire brush—whatever you need
Filler/build primer
Top coat

Or use a paintable rust converter like permatex

 

[micruz60]

Por-15 works best on chunky pitted, sun-don't-shine spots...
Clean steel is best protected by an epoxy primer and then top coat.
hth

 

[zakthor]

Besides not working very well, por15 is insanely toxic. I simply won't use it. Never ever again. Nope. Some por15 I've applied is still going strong but most of it became brittle and broke away. It seems to work best on thick metal, like on your diff, or leaf springs, like on metal that doesn't need paint and never sees sun.

I like VHT Epoxy Suspension Paint. $8 can goes a long way. Takes about 2 weeks to cure, then you can primer and top coat it. So long as you get the metal clean the vht sticks great. Is a really good smooth surface so long as you just want something tough and durable.

Another great option but much more expensive is the spray2max 2k epoxy primer on clean metal. Unlike the vht the primer is designed to hold paint so you can actually get a good paint adhesion.

For removing rust 'n stuffs: rather than wire wheel I really like the 80 grit Nieko flap disks, the 10 pack on amazon is like $18.

Something though... if you're seeing rust bubbles in your paint then the metal probably already is perforated. You should buy a cheap used 110v mig and teach yourself to fill the holes. Don't try and fix the holes with chemicals, you'll just make a bigger mess that will make more rust.

Send pics of the problem areas!

 

[Prairie Swamp]

Besides not working very well,

Everyone has an opinion on this. I've had excellent results. The original bumpers on my Tacoma rusted to pieces so I bought new aftermarket pieces on Rock Auto. This was a stupid amount of work but:

• Stripped to bare steel
• 2 coats of POR 15 all over
• 1 coat of POR 15 Top Coat inside surfaces (normally for UV protection)
• 2 coats of POR 15 Tie Coat primer on show surfaces - sanded
• 2 coats of high build 2K urethane primer - sanded
• 2 coats of ChemFlats Hot Rod matte black

Pics when the sun comes up. Not for everyone but in my opinion they will never rust again.

por15 is insanely toxic

I heart iso-cyanates. Not really. Yes stupid toxic and will do permanent damage. Witnessed this first hand late 80s early 90s. Research before you use this stuff.

 

[roadstr6]

Hey guys!

I have noticed some small rust spots around the car, and I want to figure out how to protect it while I save up money for a real paint job (among other things)... After doing some research and realizing a solid paint job can range from 3-10k (or more) I realize that my best course of action is to prevent the rust and touch up the small spots.

Anyway, reading through the POR-15 docs, I realize that it's super sun-sensitive and it SEEMS they recommend to apply High Build Primer on top of the POR-15 Bonding Coat before applying touch-up paint....

So I was wondering if this process made sense / was ill advised:

1) Take a wire brush to the rust spot(s)
2) Apply POR-15 Bonding coat
3) Let that dry
4) Apply POR-15 High Build Primer
5) Let dry
6) Apply touch-up code-matching paint

I realize this isn't going to look AMAZING, but I just want to protect it and have it looking *solid* until i can afford something nicer. Can post pics soon.

When I do POR-15 on the body, I do it this way:

1) Wire brush
2) POR-15
3) POR-15 Tie Coat (which is a high build Primer that will stick to POR-15)
4) Top Coat.

Brush on the POR-15. Don't spray it if you don't have to. I use cheap chip brushes from the hardware store.

 

[Gretsch]

I like VHT Epoxy Suspension Paint. $8 can goes a long way. Takes about 2 weeks to cure, then you can primer and top coat it. So long as you get the metal clean the vht sticks great. Is a really good smooth surface so long as you just want something tough and durable.

X2 on the VHT. Used it for some frame spots on the ends of my frame. Has a great smooth finish which dries to sort of a semi-gloss. I don't know how tough it is but it looked really nice on the frame areas I did:

I just sanded the area to get some of the heavier surface rust off, then hit it with the VHT. Turned out nicer than I thought it would. I wanted to get the 2K Epoxy primer from Eastwood but is pretty expensive so thought In would try this out and see how it went. Thought it worked out pretty good so went with it. HTH.

 

[Willard]

I’d skip the por for exterior. Just the basics

Clean/sand/wire brush—whatever you need
Filler/build primer
Top coat

Or use a paintable rust converter like permatex

What @Shes Mad said.

I will add

1. Clean/sand/wire brush—whatever you need
2. OSPHO Rust Converter (read instructions)
3. filler
4. sand
5. glazing putty
6. sand
7. primer
8. wet sand
9. top coat
10. want to get fancy wet sand this again with a super fin grit and then polish and wax.

Unless your 60 has been resprayed with a clear coat. You have a single stage paint. Want to gt a close match, check out places like autotouchup they do a pretty good job.

 

[robotriot]

When I do POR-15 on the body, I do it this way:

1) Wire brush
2) POR-15
3) POR-15 Tie Coat (which is a high build Primer that will stick to POR-15)
4) Top Coat.

Brush on the POR-15. Don't spray it if you don't have to. I use cheap chip brushes from the hardware store.
View attachment 1954483View attachment 1954484View attachment 1954485View attachment 1954486

oooh, nice work!!

 

[Prairie Swamp]

Not much to see under the mud, dirt and oil dripping out of the tailgate but this bumper was painted with my above process.

 

[FJACS]

I’ve had mixed results with the black POR15 rust paint, but had good results with their silver strengthener on rusty floor pans.

For body rust spots, I usually flap or wire wheel, apply a rust converter and brush paint a few coats of red oxide primer on the area. After the primer hardens you can block sand the bristle marks out and topcoat with colour.