Propeller shaft service (1 Viewer)

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First time doing this job on this truck and read the manuals, the threads, and watched the videos.

What I'm writing about is this part from the owner manual "re-torque nuts and bolts".

To me re-torque means losing up the nuts/bolts then torque back to specs - 88Nm. Yet, I did not see or read anyone doing that. The only mention was on this thread
where he is actually removing the shafts for servicing.

So how do you do this, are you actually retorquing the bolts/nuts or are you just ensuring they did not get lose?
 
Ensure they didn’t get loose.

Adding repeated loosen/tighten cycles to the bolts is a very good way to introduce potential for human error to lead to failure. Your odds of having problems are much higher than simply confirming they are still tight.

It’s the same risk as any unnecessary maintenance. There is technically greater risk of problems.
 
Ensure they didn’t get loose.

Adding repeated loosen/tighten cycles to the bolts is a very good way to introduce potential for human error to lead to failure. Your odds of having problems are much higher than simply confirming they are still tight.

It’s the same risk as any unnecessary maintenance. There is technically greater risk of problems.
Exactly what I do. And at the same time hit all available zerks with the grease gun.
 
Doru,
Your timing is perfect.
After reading the maintenance manual just now, I too was contemplating this same maintenance. It seems like something shops won’t bother with and something I might be able to do on my own.

All,
Is there a final decision on what grease to use? I’ve seen a couple of suggestions.

Bloc,
So you aren’t using a torque wrench? Just making sure they are tight?

I ask because the manual says to check daily when off-roading. Does anybody do that?

04UZJ100,
How about greasing? Do you do that?
 
The manual says
Spiders: lithium base chassis grease NLGI No.2
Yoke: preferred Molybdenum-disulfide lithium base chassis grease NLGI No.2
OR same as spiders

After reading a lot of posts and opinions I settled on using Lucas X-Tra heavy duty grease for both - keep it simple. The choice was not based on easily availability around here. I usually use the best but with no experience on these shafts I went with the popular choice.
 
I've greased mine, used same grease for both spiders and slip-yoke. I did not touch the bolts, seems excessive.
 
Doru,
Your timing is perfect.
After reading the maintenance manual just now, I too was contemplating this same maintenance. It seems like something shops won’t bother with and something I might be able to do on my own.

All,
Is there a final decision on what grease to use? I’ve seen a couple of suggestions.

Bloc,
So you aren’t using a torque wrench? Just making sure they are tight?

I ask because the manual says to check daily when off-roading. Does anybody do that?

04UZJ100,
How about greasing? Do you do that?

These are some of the few bolts I don’t typically use a torque wrench on. The shape of the spider makes the angles difficult to get full torque without contact from the wrench head or swivels impacting the reading. So I put combination wrenches on the nut and bolt close enough together that they are working against each other in one grip. Then I squeeze the piss out of them. It’s definitely at least to minimum torque.. And so far I haven’t stripped any.

This is in the rare instance I need to reattach a driveline. It has been a few times between the LS swap into my 80 and various projects over the few cruisers I’ve had.. but like @04UZJ100 I haven’t had any problems. If you look close Toyota used a very fine pitch very high grade bolt in this location. To my knowledge it is pretty unique to this application and IMO a win for Toyota.

As for grease.. millions (?) of Toyota driveshaft slip yokes have done great with basic lithium grease. I used to put moly into that location but when that grease gun gave up I never replaced it. Just isn’t worth having two.
 
While you’re under there check the chassis bolts as well.
Ha. You beat me to this.
It’s the other thing I noticed in the manual that I doubt the dealers bother to do.

But I feel like this is hijacking the thread and I’ll post my questions on the stupid question thread.
 

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