Drive Shaft / Propeller Shaft Service - Detailed (1 Viewer)

[Overland Tailor]

The 80 series guys have had so many driveshaft issues with related Vibrations or Clunks that I believe can be easily avoided by proper drive shaft servicing. There is no reason the 200 Series should be any different and in my opinion, the Prop shafts are one of the most under serviced parts on our trucks.

I hope that this little write up can debunk some mystery behind common problems and show that even the shade tree mechanic can properly remove, service and reinstall the propeller shafts on the 200. Note that this service was done on a 2018 Land Cruiser so your procedure could vary a bit.

I wont have time to complete the entire write up in this sitting, but will get it completed tonight..

The vehicle should be serviced with the wheels on the ground, chocked and e-brake on for safety. Wear safety glasses and I recommend latex or equivalent gloves.

Remember, if you have both shafts off, only the e-brake is holding the vehicle... Make sure you chock those wheels from and rear.

Tools will include the following simple hand tools and accoutrements :

Ratchets
12mm Socket
14mm Socket
14mm Wrench
extensions
Torque Wrench
Pry Bar
Pick
Paint Pen
Paper Towels
Grease Gun with MP Grease

We will start with the rear shaft and that is the easiest to remove. First remove the insulator at the rear of the transfer case. Its held in place with (4) 12mm bolts.

You can see it below, protecting the spider joint area.

Once the insulator is removed, you can see you have access to the (4) nuts on the transfer case side flange. Before removing anything, use a paint pen to match mark the prop shaft flange and corresponding area of the transfer case flange / plate as seen below. Basically this tells you how to put it back the same way it came off.

Use the 14mm socket and extension and break loose the (4) nuts on the transfer case side of the shaft. Next move down to the rear differential and do the same. Note that on the transfer case side, you have captured bolts, so you only have the nuts and washers on that side. On the rear diff side you have nuts, washers and bolts. This is where you might need to use the 14mm wrench.

Note my match marks on the rear flanges.

 

[Overland Tailor]

On the rear diff side you will have more hardware including the bolt, washer and nut as shown below. The transfer case side has pressed or captured bolts so only a nut and washer at that location.

Diff Side:

Once you have all the hardware removed you might need some help getting the shaft from the flange surfaces. Here is where a small pry bar will work nicely.

Once the shaft is removed, you can inspect the transfer case and differential for any obvious issues. Remember that the slip yoke will mate to the transfer case side on both the front and rear prop shafts.

 

[Overland Tailor]

Once the shaft has been removed from the truck, get it to a bench for inspection. The shafts on the 200 are considered "In Phase" meaning that the orientation of the slip joint "ears" are in the same orientation as the "ears on the opposite end of the shaft. We will talk more about match marking the slip joint a bit later so you don't reinstall the joint "out of phase" which can cause vibrations.

As an aside, the 80 series front shaft from 1993/94 to 1997 was run out of phase and the rear in phase. No solid confirmation from Toyota, but it's believed that it produced less vibrations in that series.


Slip Joint - Notice orientation of ears:

Fixed side - Notice orientation of ears:

Give the prop shaft a good once over making sure its not bent. Most likely the shaft will have balance weights and you'll be able to tell if they have been torn off if they were dragged over a solid object while spinning.

Next look at the spider joint and feel for any movement or play within the joint. The joint should move smoothly through its rotational axis, but should not have slop or feel "loose"... This is hard to explain if you haven't seen it in person, so perhaps someone has a better explanation can chime in.

Also check to make sure the zerk fittings are attached, both inside the spider joint and also on the outside of the slip joint. These can also be damaged and knocked off.

 

[Overland Tailor]

Once the inspection is complete we will look to remove the slip joint from the shaft and start the cleaning and proper greasing of the driveshaft parts.

The toyota shaft have what is called inside clips. These hold the joint in position after installation. Some makes have "Outside" slips that secure over the bearing caps. The reason for this information is that some driveline balance machines can only balance shafts with "Outside" clips. So it's good to ask before you take your driveshaft for balancing if that's required.

Note "Inside Clips"

We will now start separating the slip joint from the shaft. Its important to start with match marks on the joint and shaft in the event you go a bit too far and pull the slip joint off before marking the splines. Here we see the initial match marks you should make.

One tip is that as you pull the slip joint it should create a vacuum. This will make it very difficult to remove smoothly and not pull it completely off by accident. Use a pointed tool to depress the zerk as you slowly expand the slip joint down the splined section.

Once you start seeing the splines, you want to make a another match mark. Clean the splines with degreaser and make your mark. Now you can separate the sections and have the ability to assemble as they were originally built and balanced.

 

[Overland Tailor]

Now that you have made the proper match marks, remove the slip joint and know you are well on your way to a proper service of one of the hardest working parts on your rig.

Go ahead and inspect the splines for a damage, which is normally seen as a "Smearing" if things go really bad. This is now where I start to get frustrated with Toyota. The splines and inner shaft in the pictures above show the amount of grease applied from the factory. Yep, Basically none, just a smear. Just a bit on the inner splines and a small accumulation at the base of the inner shaft.

This is a direct result of greasing the slip joint via the zerk. Now Toyota states that you should pump MP grease into the slip joint zerk and "Brake Hard" 5 times. Well, this is in hopes of squeezing that glob of grease in the bottom of the inner shaft through the splines. I've got news, that is not effective as seen in the pictures above.

Below is the amount of factory grease I removed from the inner shaft. Sad really....

Now clean everything up and we'll move on to getting things greased. I normally use shop towels or paper towels and a long flat blade screwdriver to clean the grease out of the base of the inner shaft.

All clean and ready for grease.

 

[Romer]

Excellent thread and if this post interrupts the flow I can remove it. I added it to the FAQ already based on your first post

You can grease the rear shaft without removing it. You might add that as an option. The front I was not able to get to in the 10 minutes I tried. It makes me think removal is the only way to do it.

 

[RandyCSVT]

You can grease all six zerk fittings without removing the shafts. You may have to put the vehicle in neutral and prop up one side so you can rotate the shaft if the zerks are in an awkward spot. With some practice you can get all sides without rotating the shaft

 

[bloc]

Excellent thread and if this post interrupts the flow I can remove it. I added it to the FAQ already based on your first post

You can grease the rear shaft without removing it. You might add that as an option. The front I was not able to get to in the 10 minutes I tried. It makes me think removal is the only way to do it.

It’s definitly possible. Takes me about 5 mins, most of which is removing the relevant skids. Detailed pics here: How I grease my front driveshaft

Not to take away from what Overland Tailor is doing. The pictures in this thread are great.

 

[RandyCSVT]

It can be done without removing anything. Just get a grease gun with a long flexible hose. The most I have ever had to so was prop up one side and rotate the shaft by turning the wheels that are up

 

[Romer]

@Overland Tailor If these posts distract from your thread, let me know and I will move them to blocs

Really appreciate what you are doing

Your friendly 200 Series Forum Moderator

 

[Overland Tailor]

You can grease all six zerk fittings without removing the shafts. You may have to put the vehicle in neutral and prop up one side so you can rotate the shaft if the zerks are in an awkward spot. With some practice you can get all sides without rotating the shaft

Yes, you can grease all zerks w/o removing the shafts, but as I'll explain in more detail, that is not necessarily the correct way. Spiders you can lube all you want, but the slip joints can and do have issues with using the zerks.

 

[Overland Tailor]

@Overland Tailor If these posts distract from your thread, let me know and I will move them to blocs

Really appreciate what you are doing

Your friendly 200 Series Forum Moderator

Ken,

Not at all. Appreciate all input from the group. If after I complete you feel that some should be moved into blocks, feel free.


Cheers,

J

 

[Overland Tailor]

Ok -

Now we will clean the zerk of the nasty dirt and grease as not to pump that into the joint. Just a wipe with a paper towel is all you need and then attach your grease gun. It took me about 6 pumps before I started to see any old grease start to push from the joint surfaces. Again, this tells me that from the factory, the spiders are also very dry.


Pump grease until you start to see fresh grease coming out. Again, no way to push too much in the spiders.

Here you can see the old Toyota grease followed by my MP Grease.

Go ahead and wipe of the excess so it doesn't end up all over the underside of your truck.

Now what I do is take a tube of my MP grease, cut it open and put it in a container to be used to lube the inner shaft splines. I use that long bladed driver again and smear grease on the splines and then distribute it with my finger. This will properly coat the slip joint upon reassembly.

 

[Overland Tailor]

In my opinion, so take that for what its worth, this is the proper way to grease the inner splines.

The 80 Series has a felt seal around the slip joint and the 200 has an upgraded plastic seal. Both need the exterior portion of the shaft greased prior to replacement of the slip joint. Just a smear will do it and the seal will remove any excess it doesn't need.

Next, line up your match marks and slide the slip joint back on the main tube. No worries about in phase or out of phase since you make your marks prior to disassembly.

Just like pulling the slip joint off, pushing it on will require you to release the pressure using the zerk and a pointed tool. Note that you might have to do this a final time when you install the shaft back on the truck depending on the location of the slip joint,

Finally, we need to service the spider at the fixed end of the shaft. Clean the zerk of any grime and grit and start filing with grease. Remove any excess and thats it.

Installation is the opposite of removal. Remember that the slip joint will go to the transfer case side.

Torque all fasteners on the drive shaft to 65 ft/lbs or 88 N-m

Torque 4 insulator bolts to 22 ft-lbs or 30 N-m

Congrats! You have successfully done a proper clean and lube of the rear driveshaft. I can tell you from experience that if you have the "clunk" going from Drive to Reverse or Reverse to Drive this will probably resolve it. I know it did on this truck and countless 80 series trucks as well.

On my 80 Series this gets done every oil change and tire rotation circa 5,000 miles.

The 200 is wife driven, street only and will be done every 10,000 miles unless I start to take it off road. Those are just my numbers~



So a few personal points....

If you pump grease into the slip joints with the shafts on the truck, I don't believe you will properly grease the splines. This can result in wear and I've seen it many times produce the "Clunk" in both 80 Series and 200 Series.

Greasing the spiders on the truck is a non-issue. As people have said, get the zerks right and pump grease with them installed.

Pushing grease in the slip joints with the shafts on the truck can cause excessive pressure against the transfer case and differential seals and bearings unless the pressure is relieved after greasing. So, if you grease on the truck, use the pointed tool like the one in the pictures and release the pressure after greasing.

But, as we have seen in the pictures within this thread, that method failed to place grease throughout all the splines when done by the factory. I have some pics of the front shafts that show this in greater detail.

Finally, I hope this helps take some of the mystery out of the driveshaft service. Again, I feel its an area that can use some love and I can do both shafts in just a few hours.

I'll continue this a bit later with some of the differences of the front shaft service.


Cheers,

John

 

[OGBeno]

Solid write up John.

 

[KFJ45]

Solid write up John.

Hey Onur. Could you shoot me a PM. I tried to send you one. Got a quick question. And yes I know you're retired!!

 

[TeCKis300]

In my opinion, so take that for what its worth, this is the proper way to grease the inner splines.




The 80 Series has a felt seal around the slip joint and the 200 has an upgraded plastic seal. Both need the exterior portion of the shaft greased prior to replacement of the slip joint. Just a smear will do it and the seal will remove any excess it doesn't need.



Next, line up your match marks and slide the slip joint back on the main tube. No worries about in phase or out of phase since you make your marks prior to disassembly.



Just like pulling the slip joint off, pushing it on will require you to release the pressure using the zerk and a pointed tool. Note that you might have to do this a final time when you install the shaft back on the truck depending on the location of the slip joint,




Finally, we need to service the spider at the fixed end of the shaft. Clean the zerk of any grime and grit and start filing with grease. Remove any excess and thats it.



Installation is the opposite of removal. Remember that the slip joint will go to the transfer case side.

Torque all fasteners on the drive shaft to 65 ft/lbs or 88 N-m

Torque 4 insulator bolts to 22 ft-lbs or 30 N-m

Congrats! You have successfully done a proper clean and lube of the rear driveshaft. I can tell you from experience that if you have the "clunk" going from Drive to Reverse or Reverse to Drive this will probably resolve it. I know it did on this truck and countless 80 series trucks as well.

On my 80 Series this gets done every oil change and tire rotation circa 5,000 miles.

The 200 is wife driven, street only and will be done every 10,000 miles unless I start to take it off road. Those are just my numbers~



So a few personal points....

If you pump grease into the slip joints with the shafts on the truck, I don't believe you will properly grease the splines. This can result in wear and I've seen it many times produce the "Clunk" in both 80 Series and 200 Series.

Greasing the spiders on the truck is a non-issue. As people have said, get the zerks right and pump grease with them installed.

Pushing grease in the slip joints with the shafts on the truck can cause excessive pressure against the transfer case and differential seals and bearings unless the pressure is relieved after greasing. So, if you grease on the truck, use the pointed tool like the one in the pictures and release the pressure after greasing.

But, as we have seen in the pictures within this thread, that method failed to place grease throughout all the splines when done by the factory. I have some pics of the front shafts that show this in greater detail.

Finally, I hope this helps take some of the mystery out of the driveshaft service. Again, I feel its an area that can use some love and I can do both shafts in just a few hours.

I'll continue this a bit later with some of the differences of the front shaft service.


Cheers,

John

John, I hate to be the debbie downer here as I applaud the effort and attention to detail. Most of it is great and it's cool to see the inner workings.

In regards to the slip joint, unfortunately, I agree with what Toyota has done here. Less is more. These things are not by chance and they don't get these things wrong very often, especially when they've built millions of examples over many decades.

You've touched on it, but over greasing this a huge no no. Especially if it results in significant filling of the inner cavity with grease. As there is no other relief than the void there, filling with too much grease will effectively lock out the ability of the drive shaft to compress and extend. Locking the slip joint hydraulically, resulting in ridiculous forces exerted on the transfer case, to the point of failure as you also mentioned.

I design systems and support sustainment in complex machinery. One of the big things is to minimize invasive servicing and service intervals. Because servicing itself is an opportunity to introduce failure modes. Personally, I would highly recommend against this form of a regular maintenance. Use the zerks. That's how they were designed and intended to be serviced. If someone regularly services them at all, it will serve a long and healthy life.

I grease all 6 points in mine at every oil change. 2-3 pumps to every zerk. Never had to take anything apart to reach the zerks with a generic flexible hose. AHC on high and perhaps roll the truck a feet forward or backward on occasion for the more difficult to reach ones, but that's it.

 

[Overland Tailor]

Certainly appreciate your input. Everyone has their way and I've run mine this way for over 6 years. No overpressure and no wasted grease at the bottom of the inner shaft after 5,000 miles.

I decompress as noted when installing the slip joint and during install.

Thanks,

John

 

[Darije]

Certainly appreciate your input. Everyone has their way and I've run mine this way for over 6 years. No overpressure and no wasted grease at the bottom of the inner shaft after 5,000 miles.

I decompress as noted when installing the slip joint and during install.

Thanks,

John

Fuuuuuu*k, I ordered new rear prop shaft because I have "clunk" going from Drive to Reverse or Reverse to Drive. Official Toyota service told me it is broken. I asked them to open it and grease it. They told me it can not be opened. Told me only solution is to buy new one. It costed me 1350 Euro

 

[AnyMal]

Fuuuuuu*k, I ordered new rear prop shaft because I have "clunk" going from Drive to Reverse or Reverse to Drive. Official Toyota service told me it is broken. I asked them to open it and grease it. They told me it can not be opened. Told me only solution is to buy new one. It costed me 1350 Euro

Wow. These dealer stories are shocking to hear.

A completely normal drive shaft clunk and you are fead lies and defrauded. You can’t even trust your own shadow these days.