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Project: Rebuilding a busted CV
- Thread starter ClassyJalopy
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- cv axle
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well that's sketchy, I had no idea they were reman'd on the dealer site. What's the go-to aftermarket one I should use, if the dealer remans are trash and the new ones are $$$ ? Or just suck it up and get the new ones? If so, how can I tell which ones are new vs reman?
Edit: or maybe I ought to just re-boot them. What do y'all think? I'd hate to re-boot and then replace the CV joints later, but I only put about 5k miles a year on this car.
Edit: or maybe I ought to just re-boot them. What do y'all think? I'd hate to re-boot and then replace the CV joints later, but I only put about 5k miles a year on this car.
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awesomeissquid
SILVER Star
I think some have had luck with the Cardone HDs but I do not speak from personal experience. If you have OEM on the vehicle now you can replace the outboard splines to basically refresh the axle.
I take it the splines are the wear/failure portion, not the flexible part then? As far as I know (and as far as it looks, age-wise) I believe that I have originals on the vehicle.
Like I said before, bear with me here. I know a lot of stuff about a lot of things, but axles aren't one of those areas AT ALL, heheh.
trdcorolla
SILVER Star
If your axles are OEM, not clicking or vibrating, you could just reboot them (I would also replace the drive flange while your at it). I'm not sure about labor rates in NC, but with the high labor rates at known/popular offroad/Toyota specialty shops here in CA, you might be creeping into new OEM territory. Now the crapper, if you buy a new OEM axle yourself for $500 and pay a shop to install it, if there is something wrong with the axle, you'll have to eat the labor cost to remove/reinstall it and deal with Toyota for the replacement. If you bought the new OEM axle from the shop who's doing the install for let's say $600, you're losing the $100 up front but won't have to worry if something is wrong with the new axle (assuming the shop gives you any kind of warranty).
- Thread starter
- #26
43460-69145 gives you the whole outboard shaft, the inner boot, grease for both ends and clips. I highly recommend getting this kit instead of just the reboot kit since the outer-shaft grooves usually are worn out with mileage.
As for other stuff to replace while you are in there? I would recommend replacing the drive flanges and the diff side axle seal.
NM - Deleted
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- Thread starter
- #29
We all have a "semi" experience time to time!Thanks for posting this CJ. I'm having a half shaft Saturday.
I spent a quality couple of hours taking off my passenger side cv and repacking with grease before installing a new diff side seal and putting it all back together.
Although i ended up taking off the whole steering knuckle, but this guy was able to remove the CV with knuckle in place:
Thanks for sharing this video. I've got this one etched into memory now. That's an almost forgotten approach that I have used with Nissan FWDs way back there.
- Thread starter
- #31
Let me know if it works out for you, I couldn't get the cv out this way but may be there is a trick to it that I missed.
Will do. I'll try this when I replace my (loaned to self) spare next weekend.
The challenge with leaving the knuckle attached is the extreme angle you have to use to remove the axle- then when you go back to install - you can easily damage the brass bushing in front of the spindle bearings, or damage the dust seal on the knuckle (the spring retainer gets kinked from hitting it and breaks or falls out.)
15 extra minutes to pull the lower ball joint and remove the knuckle completely- worth the extra time
15 extra minutes to pull the lower ball joint and remove the knuckle completely- worth the extra time
Excellent points.The challenge with leaving the knuckle attached is the extreme angle you have to use to remove the axle- then when you go back to install - you can easily damage the brass bushing in front of the spindle bearings, or damage the dust seal on the knuckle (the spring retainer gets kinked from hitting it and breaks or falls out.)
15 extra minutes to pull the lower ball joint and remove the knuckle completely- worth the extra time
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
I don’t. Those boots are thick and tough. I just slap a little grease on those splines and the boot goes on without issue.
Would this be the ticket for a clicking axle?
OEM axles, 2 years old on the dot and already having to re-do this BS
OEM axles, 2 years old on the dot and already having to re-do this BS
- Thread starter
- #38
OEM joints usually don't click even after years of use. The only time I have seen them deteriorate is when the boots bust open and loose all the grease and the joints are run dry!
Are you sure the CVs were OEM new and not remanufactured? We have seen a lot of poor quality Toyota reman CVs!
Are you sure the CVs were OEM new and not remanufactured? We have seen a lot of poor quality Toyota reman CVs!
brand new, got them from McGeorge Toyota in July 2020. 43430-60040, $850 shipped for two.
I am lifted but with a diff drop, and have wheeled MAYBE 4-5 times since then. No torn boots.
I do agree they should not be clicking and I'm definitely not happy about it
I am lifted but with a diff drop, and have wheeled MAYBE 4-5 times since then. No torn boots.
I do agree they should not be clicking and I'm definitely not happy about it
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
Check lug nut torque first. I thought I had a clicking CV joint, too, but turned out to be the washers on 2 lug nuts making noise because those two nuts had slightly loosened over time.
