- Thread starter
- #741
I'm waiting on a price quote from Philadelphia Racing Products for a complete remote 50gpm electric water pump setup. If the price is too high, I may just windup moving the engine back 1-2 inches.
Build Project Lockjaw-1973 Fj40 on Tons
- Thread starter bluehawk
- Start date
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Ditcherman
SILVER Star
Please excuse my ignorance but why do you need an electric pump? I assumed people just took the fan off but still ran the belt to power the existing water pump.
I’m exploring auxiliary radiator options so your mention got me intrigued but I’m hoping to get enough flow off the heater circuit to do an aux radiator.
I’d hate to have to see you move your engine back if you sit have to.
- Thread starter
- #744
@Ditcherman...............As my engine sits right now, I don't have enough room for everything in the front end to clear the water pump pulley. I am using the stock radiator mount bracket with an aftermarket radiator for the LS swap. If I go with an aftermarket electric fan for the back of the radiator, that adds about 4 inches. I'm also planning on running AC/Heat, so I need to put in a AC condenser. That would mean moving everything back about another 2 inches. So, with the AC condenser, radiator, electric fan, that all measures around 8 inches or so. If I were to take off the water pump and run a remote electric water pump, it would give me plenty of clearance. Hope that clears up some of the confusion.
Personally I would take the time to move the engine back. What hurdles would you run into if you move it? Outside of cutting everything off and moving it?
Electric water pumps are just one more failure point added to the mix. Not saying it can’t be done.
Electric water pumps are just one more failure point added to the mix. Not saying it can’t be done.
Ditcherman
SILVER Star
Gotcha, I was just thinking fan, not water pump drive pulley.
Hi Ryan. Thanks for your DM. I hope that you don’t mind me posting my reply here for others to chime in if they wish.
I did my best to take good measurements of my engine placement. I have that engine compartment so packed that I had a very hard time getting my tape measure in there. I created a quick and dirty video so that you can be the judge. Let me know if there are other measurements that you would like me to take.
Measurements:
I did my best to take good measurements of my engine placement. I have that engine compartment so packed that I had a very hard time getting my tape measure in there. I created a quick and dirty video so that you can be the judge. Let me know if there are other measurements that you would like me to take.
Measurements:
- Back of head to firewall: 2.5”
- Water pump to fans: 1.5-2”
- Rocker panel to floor: 28.5”
- A-B pillar frame to floor: 23.75”
- Thread starter
- #748
Thanks Mike, that was perfect. The video gave me good visual of everything that you measured for me. Now I know how to proceed with packaging my engine bay.
No problem. I thought that method might be better though it was hard to get good shots in there. I recommend adding some heat shield to your firewall and transmission tunnel before you install the engine for the final time, even if you are only planning to drive it off-road. These engines make for a warm engine compartment. I will do this to mine in the spring.
- Thread starter
- #750
Well, got the quote back from PRP and it was well over $1k.......... I'll be moving the engine back a bit and switching to an engine mounted electric water pump. Just a little bit of extra work but I think everything will fit fine.
The general rule of thumb i go with for engines is as far back as possible and as high as feasable to keep the trans clearing and not sitting at a crazy angle. Usually 8 degrees max brfore it really starts screwing with front driveline angles. I like auto pans to be as close to level as possible. 40s are hard to package, especially with a link setup. I would highly recommend sticking with stock stuff, it's way easier to get parts in strange places. A belt is a lot cheaper and easier to carry than a spare electric pump, and I haven't had great luck with electric pumps in a rough environment for my intercooler.
Sound advice!
- Thread starter
- #753
@Mike Shull can you do me a favor and get a few more measurements? On your front and rear coilovers, measurement from mount bolt to mount bolt. Also, how much of the chrome shaft is showing at ride height? Thanks Sir
- Thread starter
- #754
Not a lot of Cruiser work going on. I did get my powder coating oven finished and did a quick job for a friend. Old 1998 Kawasaki KX 250 frame.
Hi Ryan. My front measures approximately 26 inches from eye to eye with approximately 5 inches of shaft showing at ride height. FYI, I started at 4 inches and it was too low and I had to lift the truck up a little bit so it wouldn’t bottom out. 5 inches seems like the minimum for me.
The rear is sitting at a shy under 28 inches eye to eye with just shy of 7 inches of shaft showing.
These are 14 inch coil over shocks.
Something to note is that the specifications from King don’t line up with my actual measurements which is probably due to me not understanding what part of the shock King measures for their specifications. King shows on their website 23.25 inches collapsed and 37.25 extended. However, my measurements would show a 2 inch shorter distance if this were true so they must be measuring full shock hardware from end to end.
I think that you have your shocks on hand, but if you don’t, I would highly recommend to order them before moving forward. I had an 18 month wait on mine so I called King to get clarity on the specifications and then I used tube to mock my suspension in place. I had to move my mounts when the shocks arrived.
Here are a few pictures showing how I measured the front shocks.
The rear is sitting at a shy under 28 inches eye to eye with just shy of 7 inches of shaft showing.
These are 14 inch coil over shocks.
Something to note is that the specifications from King don’t line up with my actual measurements which is probably due to me not understanding what part of the shock King measures for their specifications. King shows on their website 23.25 inches collapsed and 37.25 extended. However, my measurements would show a 2 inch shorter distance if this were true so they must be measuring full shock hardware from end to end.
I think that you have your shocks on hand, but if you don’t, I would highly recommend to order them before moving forward. I had an 18 month wait on mine so I called King to get clarity on the specifications and then I used tube to mock my suspension in place. I had to move my mounts when the shocks arrived.
Here are a few pictures showing how I measured the front shocks.
- Thread starter
- #756
That is awesome Mike, thank you for your measurements. I just wanted to make sure that I am on the right track with my set-up. I keep second guessing myself on what I have going on.
I hear ya. I bet most of that will change once you are able to drive it. Proof of concept can often be more powerful than theory, though it is hard to move into that stage with a project like this. Keep going and get this thing on the road, even if you are sitting on a wooden crate to take a spin around the block 
Nice work Mike
Hey Ryan, sorry to Hijack your build thread but I need some support and opinions from all of you. I have completed my 40 build and will include a very quick walk around. Here is my question. I have a complete set of Fj80 axles from 1997. I’m considering abandoning this axle swap and going with 1 tons and being done!!! I know DJ runs fj80 and you and Mike are on 1 tons. Although GM vs. Ford between the 2 of you. I’m concerned that the front fj80 with HP 8” will not hold up. And probably never with 40’s. If I go 1 tons I will need to pickup an Atlas TC and then rebuild my nv4500 to match. I have done the math for both builds of axles and about 4-5K will be the cost. Then additional cost for the Atlas. Please post up any opinions and recommendations. I just can’t to seem to pull the trigger either way but I would say the 1 tons got my attention. Thanks, Paul
There no denying that tons are ultimate.
But IMO the 80 Axles are up to the task. How hard of trails do you plan to run.
Is it going to be a king of the hammers rig ?
I run 39s on my 80 and run super hard trails.
It’s also nice to have the extra ground clearance with a 8” front axle and not have to get new 8 lug wheels.
But IMO the 80 Axles are up to the task. How hard of trails do you plan to run.
Is it going to be a king of the hammers rig ?
I run 39s on my 80 and run super hard trails.
It’s also nice to have the extra ground clearance with a 8” front axle and not have to get new 8 lug wheels.
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