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Builds Project - EffjJay Eighty - 2UZ powered (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter toojayzee
- Start date
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I'm using a 3.9L 4 cyl Mitsubishi TDI out of a 2001 Fuso delivery truck. It's not going to be a rocketship at 150hp and 300 ft lbs, but I have a feeling it will be enough and it should get awesome fuel mileage. The engine also has cool tricks like a built-in exhaust brake, lockup torque converter in 2-3-4, electronically variable idle speed (through a potentiometer on the dash), and some other big truck features.
It has a large ECM as well as a TCM and I'm hoping that I can locate them both in the vicinity of the original ECM location, even if I have to encroach on the glovebox space. The engine has a computer controlled injection pump, and the transmission is an Aisin 450-43LE, which is an updated version of an A442F. I'm hoping to create an engine harness that starts at the OEM Ecm location, ties into to body harness (6 plugs), and follows factory(ish) routing to the pump, and eventually the trans. The engine has a number of relays for the prestroke cut, exhaust brake, etc so I will have to integrate a relay board under the hood, probably similar to the Camry relay board you have used.
Right now I am focusing on getting the engine running on a test stand, so that I can verify that I have the wiring harness setup correctly. I don't have the 1994 EWD yet, which is why I am kind of blind with respect to the wiring on the cruiser. I intend to get it before I start taking the truck apart and research it further, but your swap seems to confirm what I was thinking, that I should not have to get into the dash wiring at all, and I should be able to tap into 99% of the feeds I need right at the OEM ECU location by using the plugs from the OEM engine harness.
It has a large ECM as well as a TCM and I'm hoping that I can locate them both in the vicinity of the original ECM location, even if I have to encroach on the glovebox space. The engine has a computer controlled injection pump, and the transmission is an Aisin 450-43LE, which is an updated version of an A442F. I'm hoping to create an engine harness that starts at the OEM Ecm location, ties into to body harness (6 plugs), and follows factory(ish) routing to the pump, and eventually the trans. The engine has a number of relays for the prestroke cut, exhaust brake, etc so I will have to integrate a relay board under the hood, probably similar to the Camry relay board you have used.
Right now I am focusing on getting the engine running on a test stand, so that I can verify that I have the wiring harness setup correctly. I don't have the 1994 EWD yet, which is why I am kind of blind with respect to the wiring on the cruiser. I intend to get it before I start taking the truck apart and research it further, but your swap seems to confirm what I was thinking, that I should not have to get into the dash wiring at all, and I should be able to tap into 99% of the feeds I need right at the OEM ECU location by using the plugs from the OEM engine harness.
CA Emissions
toojayzee or superrunner or anyone else who has done this swap,
I'm looking to do the same, swap a 2UZ V8 into my 80. Being in CA, I would have to get the finished swap approved by a smog referee. I spoke to him this morning, and he said these are the key things he would be looking for:
1. Functioning OBD connector w/ no codes
2. Stock 2uz exhaust system from the block to the last O2 sensor
3. Stock 2uz EVAP system from, including some sort of pressure check the ECU does with the fuel tank
I'm worried about 2 and 3. I doubt I will be able to fit the stock Tundra headers and pipes under an 80. And what about the EVAP system? Any thoughts? I have a sinking feeling this is not going to be possible in CA.
Thanks,
Chris
toojayzee or superrunner or anyone else who has done this swap,
I'm looking to do the same, swap a 2UZ V8 into my 80. Being in CA, I would have to get the finished swap approved by a smog referee. I spoke to him this morning, and he said these are the key things he would be looking for:
1. Functioning OBD connector w/ no codes
2. Stock 2uz exhaust system from the block to the last O2 sensor
3. Stock 2uz EVAP system from, including some sort of pressure check the ECU does with the fuel tank
I'm worried about 2 and 3. I doubt I will be able to fit the stock Tundra headers and pipes under an 80. And what about the EVAP system? Any thoughts? I have a sinking feeling this is not going to be possible in CA.
Thanks,
Chris
evap isn't too hard, you just need to find a spot for the big bulky box, or possibly try to find one from a car that has a pump and a slightly smaller tank.
As for your exhaust...good luck, the stock cats will not fit, and if you can get away with using aftermarket cats, you will need to get some super high quality cats. I got some dynomax generic cats, and the ECU gave an error saying they were not effecient enough.
When getting an ECU, try to find one that does not require a coded key. This will really really help. You can find out by checking the vin with the dealership. They can tell you all the options that vehicle came with.
As for your exhaust...good luck, the stock cats will not fit, and if you can get away with using aftermarket cats, you will need to get some super high quality cats. I got some dynomax generic cats, and the ECU gave an error saying they were not effecient enough.
When getting an ECU, try to find one that does not require a coded key. This will really really help. You can find out by checking the vin with the dealership. They can tell you all the options that vehicle came with.
- Thread starter
- #465
Chrisc16, I had no problems with 1, 2 or 3.
and I have stock cats on mine. Everything is tight but works very well.
I have some updates for this thread that hopefully ill post this weekend.
and I have stock cats on mine. Everything is tight but works very well.
I have some updates for this thread that hopefully ill post this weekend.
updates?
- Thread starter
- #467
I have been having problems with excessive tire wear and vibrations since I purchased the rig.
Here is a post I made talking about a little of the trouble I had
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/444130-front-end-help-needed.html
But ill post some of the info here anyway.
When I got the rig it started off with - 315/75/16 MTR's that were about 50% tread but cupped and worn wrong. It had a 2.5" OME lift with the OME caster bushings and some type of home brew welded washer on the lower front control arm to increase the caster further.
The rig seemed to drive ok, but as time went on I wanted to start getting it to drive more like a maintained vehicle than a jalopy.
The front hub nuts were loose and the spindles were damaged from that. So I replaced the spindles, hubs, bearings/races, calipers, pads and rotors since the majority of that stuff was trashed.
I also did rotors, pads and calipers in the rear at the same time.
The beast drove much better but there was still a slight shimmy and as the months ran by, the tires became more chewed up.
At this point I was holding off on a tire purchase because I didnt want to throw money out the door if I couldnt narrow down the problem.
I decided that the oem bushings may have been shot so I ordered up the full set of bushes from ebay austrailia. What a pita it was to do that job. Took a full day for the entire rig setup.
That fixed a little more of the shimmy but as time went on I still wasnt fully satisfied.
Goodyear was having an $80 rebate if you bought 4 315/75/16 MTR Kevlars so I shoped the priced and pulled the trigger. Got them mounted up two weekends ago in hopes that it would fix the remaining problems I was having. Big negative on that. WTF Over.
At this point im pissed off and worried that im going to destrooy $1,400 worth of tires... and the only thing I hadnt done was rear wheel bearings. So I did those. The old ones were worn quite a bit and I got a little more of the vibration out. Now im passed being pissed and just frustrated
Now before you think drivelines, its not a driveline vibration im feeling. Its in the tires for certain. And it was causing cupping and shredding of the tires which im fairly certain wouldnt be caused by drivelines.
I had been bothered with the fact that the axles werent dead center so I decided I would get the slee panhard adjusters.
I figured WTF, since im throwing money at the fawker cause I daily drive it and want it to run totally sweet, lets throw some trunion bearings, front kuckle rebuild kit and tie rod ends at it.
Then the rig will ostensibly be brand new under the frame.
I installed all that stuff on saturday and took it for a ride, boy was it smooth as silk. At 70mph on the freeway it felt like my wifes lexus, but darted around a bit. So im thinking fawk yea finally some major headway. Time for a lifetime alignment from firestone.
Get that biotch in for an alignment sunday morning first thing. Got it back, holy sh1t it darts around even more now. Called them up yesterday, explained the situation. Brought it back to them last night, worked with the tech to put a little more toe back into it, and road tested it three different times. Still darts around a bit. Thier lead tech is thinking worn steering box.
When we move the steering wheel, the pitman arm moves right away.
Here is a post I made talking about a little of the trouble I had
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/444130-front-end-help-needed.html
But ill post some of the info here anyway.
When I got the rig it started off with - 315/75/16 MTR's that were about 50% tread but cupped and worn wrong. It had a 2.5" OME lift with the OME caster bushings and some type of home brew welded washer on the lower front control arm to increase the caster further.
The rig seemed to drive ok, but as time went on I wanted to start getting it to drive more like a maintained vehicle than a jalopy.
The front hub nuts were loose and the spindles were damaged from that. So I replaced the spindles, hubs, bearings/races, calipers, pads and rotors since the majority of that stuff was trashed.
I also did rotors, pads and calipers in the rear at the same time.
The beast drove much better but there was still a slight shimmy and as the months ran by, the tires became more chewed up.
At this point I was holding off on a tire purchase because I didnt want to throw money out the door if I couldnt narrow down the problem.
I decided that the oem bushings may have been shot so I ordered up the full set of bushes from ebay austrailia. What a pita it was to do that job. Took a full day for the entire rig setup.
That fixed a little more of the shimmy but as time went on I still wasnt fully satisfied.
Goodyear was having an $80 rebate if you bought 4 315/75/16 MTR Kevlars so I shoped the priced and pulled the trigger. Got them mounted up two weekends ago in hopes that it would fix the remaining problems I was having. Big negative on that. WTF Over.
At this point im pissed off and worried that im going to destrooy $1,400 worth of tires... and the only thing I hadnt done was rear wheel bearings. So I did those. The old ones were worn quite a bit and I got a little more of the vibration out. Now im passed being pissed and just frustrated
Now before you think drivelines, its not a driveline vibration im feeling. Its in the tires for certain. And it was causing cupping and shredding of the tires which im fairly certain wouldnt be caused by drivelines.
I had been bothered with the fact that the axles werent dead center so I decided I would get the slee panhard adjusters.
I figured WTF, since im throwing money at the fawker cause I daily drive it and want it to run totally sweet, lets throw some trunion bearings, front kuckle rebuild kit and tie rod ends at it.
Then the rig will ostensibly be brand new under the frame.
I installed all that stuff on saturday and took it for a ride, boy was it smooth as silk. At 70mph on the freeway it felt like my wifes lexus, but darted around a bit. So im thinking fawk yea finally some major headway. Time for a lifetime alignment from firestone.
Get that biotch in for an alignment sunday morning first thing. Got it back, holy sh1t it darts around even more now. Called them up yesterday, explained the situation. Brought it back to them last night, worked with the tech to put a little more toe back into it, and road tested it three different times. Still darts around a bit. Thier lead tech is thinking worn steering box.
When we move the steering wheel, the pitman arm moves right away.
- Thread starter
- #468
I picked up a steering box with 117k on it from a rig with street tires. It still has minor play, but looks to have some adjustment left. Im scared to adjust it because i've heard how easy it can be destroyed by having too much preload.
I have to work on the alignment still because I still have a little pull, but all in all its a little better.
Here are pix of the sector shaft from the old box. Best I can tell, its not usable/rebuildable. There is a bunch of pitting and massive wear on the middle tooth. since thats the one I figured was taking the majority of the stress with the massive tire vibration when I first got the rig.
A little wear on the bearing surface but would be acceptable wear I think.
This end of the sector shaft however is another story
I have to work on the alignment still because I still have a little pull, but all in all its a little better.
Here are pix of the sector shaft from the old box. Best I can tell, its not usable/rebuildable. There is a bunch of pitting and massive wear on the middle tooth. since thats the one I figured was taking the majority of the stress with the massive tire vibration when I first got the rig.
A little wear on the bearing surface but would be acceptable wear I think.
This end of the sector shaft however is another story
- Thread starter
- #469
Here are some photos of the bearing wear on the rear where I was running into vibrations. It appears, that the bearing was spinning on the spindle, just like I was having on the front spindles when they got destroyed.
Some wear on the race. It looks like the bearing was only riding on have the race... ?
Some wear on the race. It looks like the bearing was only riding on have the race... ?
- Thread starter
- #470
I did new Trunions, TRE's and panhard extensions
- Thread starter
- #471
Yummy panhard extensions. I like the look of having my axles centered. Feels more solid with less bump steer, and im a little less concerned about tire wear now too.
Ill take pix of them on the rig later.
The hollow rod this goes into is HREW not DOM so I had to grind a little welding burr off in order to slide this in.
Ill take pix of them on the rig later.
The hollow rod this goes into is HREW not DOM so I had to grind a little welding burr off in order to slide this in.
- Thread starter
- #472
Trunions and other yummy goodies
Some wear and pitting on the upper's
Some wear and pitting on the upper's
where did you get the panhard bar extensions?
FYI Longfield sells those lifetime non felt knuckle ball wiper seals. next time i rebuild front i will use those.
FYI Longfield sells those lifetime non felt knuckle ball wiper seals. next time i rebuild front i will use those.
- Thread starter
- #474
I used the slee extensions. As I get older I start to realize the cost of time. I was going to get the poly performance ones, but since they are made for different size DOM, I would have had to chuck them up in my lathe and turn one down, sleeve one etc.
Would have saved money, but I just wanted to cut, fit, burn and go.
dude! you are super talented. Just read nearly the whole thread. Simply amazing job, my hat's off to you.
I wish I could understand all the wiring. THat stuff is like me and fractions ...they just don't mix. I hear 4/3rds of people have the same problem as me.
nice job man!
D
I wish I could understand all the wiring. THat stuff is like me and fractions ...they just don't mix. I hear 4/3rds of people have the same problem as me.
nice job man!
D
Hey, just FYI on those rod ends... I bought those same ends (i think from MAF right?) if so, i am not really happy with them. Already get some play in them and i would paint them because mine rusted within a week of installing them!! I couldn't believe it and i don't live in the north! I mean a lot of rust too.
- Thread starter
- #477
I didnt get mine from MAF, but if they are the 555 rod ends then yea.
Mine rusted right away too. But they have been offroad twice and been ok. I do have a poping noise up front that Im going to look at before I hit the trail tomorrow.
Yep, mine are the 555 ends.
- Thread starter
- #479
I havent updated this in a while since ive been out *wheeling every chance I get. (*actual wheeling with dirt and fresh air, not web wheeling)
In a previous post I mentioned how close the oil filter is to one of the four steering box bolts. Everytime I change the filter there is a small dent from the bolt.
All that came to an end. A few friends and I were about an hour and half from town off this ratty ass road where I found a largish rock/mound/obsticle that I was attempting to conquer. I was beating on the rig a little more than usual and the motor had a little more movement than usual and the bolt head punched thru the filter.
A long ride back to town to grab some filters at crapa and viola, back on the road again.
So I pulled out the box of parts that was allocated to one of my other projects and put the filter relocation parts on this ride.
Im going to skip some of the details and show some pix of the finished product.
Im a little concerned about the lines down there, but when I mount up the winch that will take up some of the space. I think they will be fine there.
I have a crappy napa filter on there now, since I had a spare. I have a PH8A thats going on tomorrow for added capacity.
Got some good room between those effing bolt heads now
In a previous post I mentioned how close the oil filter is to one of the four steering box bolts. Everytime I change the filter there is a small dent from the bolt.
All that came to an end. A few friends and I were about an hour and half from town off this ratty ass road where I found a largish rock/mound/obsticle that I was attempting to conquer. I was beating on the rig a little more than usual and the motor had a little more movement than usual and the bolt head punched thru the filter.
A long ride back to town to grab some filters at crapa and viola, back on the road again.
So I pulled out the box of parts that was allocated to one of my other projects and put the filter relocation parts on this ride.
Im going to skip some of the details and show some pix of the finished product.
Im a little concerned about the lines down there, but when I mount up the winch that will take up some of the space. I think they will be fine there.
I have a crappy napa filter on there now, since I had a spare. I have a PH8A thats going on tomorrow for added capacity.
Got some good room between those effing bolt heads now
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I see a face full of oil when you spin that bad boy off.