Builds Project - EffjJay Eighty - 2UZ powered (1 Viewer)

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This is a nice install. Looks very clean. Wish I had it.

We just got back from some wheeling were he put this thing through its paces. Solid cruiser with that engine.

Adam thanks for putting up with my dramma. You should have know when a mall crawler showed up at your house.
Your friends were awesome. I appreciate you guys being patient, realizing that I didnt want to mangle the body. There were a few moments that I felt leather thru the pucker factor.
 
So... funny story. Last weekend snow wheeling, I was thinking my rig did excellent in the snow. Well I later learned that the lights in the dash for the lockers, are supposed to stay on solid, not flash.
I started looking around last night and realized that the limit switch on the rear locker, was missing one of the pins. I touched it and it fell off !

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One trip to the pull-a-part and $2.84 later I had a new one and a harness just in case. (the replacement was a reverse switch from a 92 4skinner)

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Also picked up a new fuel door spring off a Camary

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Woot ! working fuel door

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Ok so I replaced the limit switch and the rear motor works now.
The front however is another story :mad: I'll be posting more about this later

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Despite the front locker not working, I went out today with Adam sn -theside00

Our goal....


This

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I've taken a liking to the look of the rig, in one piece.
So it took us a little longer to get there. But worth it.

The trails in washington are deceptive. Mud covered rocks slide you into trees in the blink of an eye. I managed to come out a little wiser and damage free. Not sure I would push my luck there again after almost rolling it down a 60' embankment.

Some crazy ass trees

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This is actually pretty steep

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You gain substantial elevation here on the crazy switchback. With an 80, its a 3-5point turn at each end

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This area is waaaaaaay steeper than the photo makes it look

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Im the homo with the stunned look about me. "Uh you want me to put my what, where ?" I dont think it will fit.

It looks like a cake walk from the photo. But with mud sliding me toward the tree in one direction, a tree about 10" behind me and the drivers side about 3" from the tree on an off camber mess. After screwing around a while. The guys used a snatchblock and gave me a gentle tug, just enough to get past the trees.


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Wheres captain morgan ? Im stuck and need a little help

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Im talking milimeters of clearance here. Im not a complete pussy, I just enjoy having everything in one piece.

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Doesnt look steep





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Till you realize that its either high up there, or im a midget. Maybe a little of each

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Thanks again Adam :hillbilly:



:wrench:
 
You missed the carnage that occured on the back of mine to get into position to winch you around that tree.
 
You missed the carnage that occured on the back of mine to get into position to winch you around that tree.

Suz got a pic of that. Sorry you took that hit man. I thought you were gonna take that whole damn tree down. I could feel it in the ground 60 feet away.

This is what Adam did while making a 30 point turn to get into winching position to help me out.



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All part of the fun. That is what the rig is for. Im just glad I dont have to drive clients around in mine.

Time for some rear protection.

Let me know next time you are heading to evans I want to see what it is like down there.
 
FWIW these are what we used to joke about handing the "Newbies" that would come along with us when hitting the service roads South and North of Eugene some years ago..

It helps with the trees and the pucker factor..LMAO!
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Beautiful shots guys! [Jealous!]
 
if i tried building an oil pan it would leak soooo bad . I would just keep the oil pan you made. Looks like it works fine.
 
I previously mentioned that the locker lights were flashing, and that I thought it was normal, when I read another thread stating that the indicator was supposed to be solid. Hmmm Im blown away how well this thing did offroad w/o the lockers when I thought they were on.

Anyway, I pulled the protective cover off the rear one and realized that one of the pins and the connector for the limit switch was corroded all the way off. I swapped the front sensor/switch into the rear just to test. Sho-nuf that fixed the rear.

The front motor assembly however is another story. It looked eerily similar to the other motors ive seen photos of. There is actually a great deal of info on these locker motors here on mud as well as pirate. So hats off to the guys who did this prior to me posted photos and information about it.

This is my version of a writeup for the difflock motor. Toyota part number 41450-60060

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Typically it’s a bad sign when you have an electric motor that drips rusty water out of a vent tube when you flip it upside down

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Inside I found mud and rust

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Which is exactly what you want to find when you open a $500 piece of equipment…rolleyes

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And the all too common detached magnets

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I was 99.9% convinced that it was toast and there was no way it would ever work again. I figured if it was toast anyway, I may as well go the distance and pull it all the way apart.

Benieth the armature sits this board with resistors and the brushes.

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Benieth that is what used to be a bearing.

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and the protective cover that is supposed to be on the bearing. It looks like I used a pick tool to pull it out, but that was actually fused with one of the ball bearings when I pried it off.

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The nylon gear was partially stripped, but usable due to how deep the threads are, and the location. I dont believe the gear turn's a full 360 degrees.

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I desoldered the wires from inside the motor. 3 wires on the contactor plate and 2 wires for the motor.

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At the bottom of the motor case there is an allen key plug that covers an access to a nylon bushing that the armature shaft rides in.



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I used a punch to drive it out

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Then in reverse I flipped the punch around and removed the bearing

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I cleaned up the bearing and thankfully could read the print. This one is a NSK brand straight out of JDM land. Part number 608Z.

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The 608Z references the size of the bearing.
Its actually a very common size. My local hardware store usually carrys them, but was out. Know what else is the same size, skateboard wheel bearings. My old neighbor had one that he offered up.

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I sprayed the spring/wait mechanism with PB Blast and hit it with a wire brush to remove the scale and surface rust.

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Now that everything was dismantled it was time for the media blaster. I have to wonder exactly how long this thing sat with water inside. The aluminum was pitted as well.

Ouside view of the gear case half of the motor assy

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Inside view of the gear case half of the motor assy

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Inside of the backing/mount plate

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Ouside of the backing/mount plate

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I masked off the armature and hit it with the wire wheel on the bench grinder
You can see how bad the rust was. The steel is actually pitted and has been eaten away. Again, how long was this thing sitting in rust exactly ? jeez

After the wire wheel I cleaned up the armature contacts as well.

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I pressed in the new bearing

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Test fit the armature

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Woot ! it spins

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I reinstalled this rubber boot that protects and isolates the wires for the brushes where it comes thru the sharp casting

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The epoxy for all four of the magnets had become delaminated

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I read a thread on pirate about using CA glue to re-adhere them.
I removed mine without noteing what direction and what order they went in.

I did find out when you have 4 permanent magnets, they need to be ordered North-South, North-South like this. I used hotglue, extremely hot so that it was very thin, to temporarilly adhere the magnets so I could test the motor. I used a 7.2V RC Car battery connected directly to the two motor leads. Once I verified that it spun, I pulled the magnets out, cleaned the housing and magnets and used CA glue to adhere them.
The best way I can think of to describe this, is that there are essentially two pairs of magnets that repel each other. You place those directly across from one another


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I didn’t have any trouble reinstalling the brushes and springs, but I did read of people using string or zipties to hold them in place till the armature is installed.
 
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This is just plain bad-ass.

I doff my hat sir.


Once the mockup was complete I used it as a template


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I no longer own a tig, so this mounting flange was doomed to get warped to he11 with the mig even on the lowest setting, and going as slow as possible to not introduce too much heat.

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I reused the stock drainplug and mounting flange. With spot welds

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Its not pretty, but it did the trick in a pinch. I was up till 2am friday night getting it ready to hit the trails at 7am saturday !

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You can see here after the trip, I have a small drip coming from the drain plug because I reused the washer, not having a new one at 2am and all

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.
 
I didn’t have any trouble reinstalling the brushes and springs, but I did read of people using string or zipties to hold them in place till the armature is installed.

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I reused the O-ring along with a very thin layer of my favorite sealant Hondabond

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Reinstall the case taking note of the small dimples in the case for alignment

Packed the nylon bushing with grease and reinstalled the access cover.
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Cleaned and re-soldered the contacts plates
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Applied a thin layer of dielectric grease to the contactor plate and some regular grease to the shaft portion where it goes into the bushing on the case half
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This O-ring was reused here on the gear shaft where it seals with the backing plate
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Goes in right here
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It’s all sealed up with “right stuff” sealant/gasket maker where the wires come thru the case
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Fully assembled
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I actually skipped a few steps but perhaps with a combination of these articles you’ll have enough info between all the photos and descriptions.
Perhaps to some, this was more trouble than dropping 500bux on a new one, but at this point I have more time than money.
Enjoy :hillbilly:
EDIT: OH - Forgot the most important part of the writeup. SH1T YES IT WORKS NOW !!!






:wrench:





 
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Those magnets have any letter or sign on 'em .?

Can be glued with any other thing .. or there is a good reason to the glue that you use .. ?

outstanding job as usual .. hat off !
 
Those magnets have any letter or sign on 'em .?

Can be glued with any other thing .. or there is a good reason to the glue that you use .. ?

outstanding job as usual .. hat off !

Mine didnt have any markings on them. There was a trace of rust that I was hoping would give me a clue, but it didnt, and im glad I didnt trust that method.

I only used CA glue because it was recomended in a thread on pirate. I was originally going to use JB Weld, but im glad I didnt. I think it may have been too thick.

Thanks
 
FWIW*If someone wanted to get the bling of all bearings for this repair, in the 680 size, and should wish to cut down on both drag and rust-out possibilities, spring for a set of these Lucky's in the ABEC 7, H, or T's.

I've used them exclusively over the past 10 years, the cage is delrin, removable, and they hold up to a lot of abuse. :D
 
FWIW*If someone wanted to get the bling of all bearings for this repair, in the 680 size, and should wish to cut down on both drag and rust-out possibilities, spring for a set of these Lucky's in the ABEC 7, H, or T's.

I've used them exclusively over the past 10 years, the cage is delrin, removable, and they hold up to a lot of abuse. :D
The lucky's are nice.

This was a REDS bearing. They around 20bux for a set of 8.

The motor turns a few dozen revolutions each time its used, so hopefully this motor will last for a while before rebuilding again.
 
my front diff lock is currently inoperative. so hopefully thanks to your detailed pics i will take on the rebuild.

So you think the problem with yours was the water and rust build up?

i am hoping i can get away with cleaning it out and the motor not being burned up. wish me luck...
 
Awesome build! I happened to see this rig pull into our local eating establishment and drove by for a look. I was blown away to see the mighty 2UZ under the bonnet. Nice talking to you and you have some serious skills to take on a swap of this magnitude. Well done...
 

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