Builds Project - EffjJay Eighty - 2UZ powered (3 Viewers)

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Then you can call your rig "The Rhino" or "The Unicorn".

My vote is for the unicorn.
 
Heh, I haven't mentioned performance at all yet people seem to assume that's what I"m talking about.

Replacing (or moving) the airbox would be for durability, longevity and ease of use of the system. I'm concerned the heat of the engine, especially within a closed hood, would negatively affect the air filter, air box & MAF sensor.

A cone filter is simply an easy way to fabricate a different air filtering system. It would be pretty easy to box in the filter at the snorkel intake and construct the ducting from the throttle body to the boxed in area. I only mentioned the TRD cold intake system because it would already have some of the fabrication done.

If the stock airbox can be used, then that's great and may as well use it. However if temps get too high in it, I wouldn't want melted bits of air filter glue and bits of paper being sucked into my engine.


I used to race imports, and I've heard it before, but I've never seen any actual data to support it.

I'm not saying I'm an expert in cars, but I have designed some aircraft environmental control system. (Mechanical Engineer for military aerospace)

In my experience, thermal properties of the duct material has little bearing on performance in the temperature ranges we are talking about. (I'd say less than 130F which is pain threshold) Most important is durability in the given environment followed by weight (aerospace thing). Even though metal with 2 coats of paint is more thermally conductive than a comparable plastic, the delta T is relatively small and the flow is relatively high negating the importance. You may see higher intake temp at idle, when flow is low, but generally you only care about IAT when the throttle is down.

Taking a guess, I'd assume air source temp is 100x more important then the conductive/insulation properties of the intake.
 
Then you can call your rig "The Rhino" or "The Unicorn".

My vote is for the unicorn.

I still like EffjJay..For the love of all that is sacred and Toyota, do not eeevvvvaaarrr call it "Unicorn" or I swear I'll start calling it "Charlie"!

re: YouTube - Charlie The Unicorn

Let me offer you a better idea? Since we can clearly see your 80's "Glad to See You!" maybe just go ahead and call it "Johnson" or "R.J."??


Oh, wait, I forgot, you're upping the horespower and output, so maybe that should actually be "Strong Johnson"?? :lol: :lol: :flipoff2: :lol: :lol:

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Heres what ive got going.

The 2uz uses the DBW for cruise so I was able to free up some realestate in the back corner of the engine bay by removing the stock FJ cruise actuator.
One benifit so far was that there was a mounting hole exactly where I needed it to be.

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Two of three holes line up now and it has over an inch and a half of clearance.

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Removed a few small spot welds to remove the screw post that helps seal the air cleaner lid.

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Add one of these

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Drill a hole in the can and slide a pipe thru like so

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Install filter like this

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Im not done yet but you can see where im going with this

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:wrench:
 
looks nice. Why did you not just re-plum the air lines to the stock are box so you could retain the stock air filter?
 
looks nice. Why did you not just re-plum the air lines to the stock are box so you could retain the stock air filter?
The area where the MAF bolts up with the square flange is so small. I could make the flange no problem but the opening would be a huge restriction. I thought about doing a 90degree bend right into the top of the unit but didnt like the way it looked.
 
Aside from the fact that the valve covers are red, this would almost look deceivingly stealth if you were to powder those tubes black. Still gonna seal up the airbox bottom though I figure?
:popcorn: :clap:
 
Aside from the fact that the valve covers are red, this would almost look deceivingly stealth if you were to powder those tubes black. Still gonna seal up the airbox bottom though I figure?
:popcorn: :clap:

Do you mean take off the drip can on the bottom ?
Im going to wrinkle finish the pipe and the can...I think.

Unless someone has color recomendations I like ???
Maybe cast finish on the pipe and a coat of satin black on the canister ? :confused:
 
i think you have sacrificed the patented cyclonic vortex effect of the stock airbox, but you can compensate if you add some magnets to the fuel line :D
 
i think you have sacrificed the patented cyclonic vortex effect of the stock airbox, but you can compensate if you add some magnets to the fuel line :D

I knew someone would j/k about that. lol

Maybe I need to add a vortex throttle body spacer anti rust ground strap along with the fuel master.

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I knew someone would j/k about that. lol

Maybe I need to add a vortex throttle body spacer anti rust ground strap along with the fuel master.

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HEY!!! I have two of each of them on my cruiser. I think my RWHP is like 12 or 13hp b/c of them.... :D
 
Picked up the drivelines tonight. Out the door for under 200bux to shorten one and retube and lengthen the other ! :)

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Picked up the fixin's ta make me a power steerin line i'll tell ya what. Yee hah

Two XRP790586 -6 to 5/8-18 Power steering fittings
Two XRP609006 90 degree ends
Wayyy to much -6 Teflon hose. About 2x what I needed :whoops:
But... I wanted to make sure I didnt run short since the place is out in BFE that I drove to. I sat at a train crossing for 18 minutes to get into the parking lot :bang:

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Mmmm yummy more parts

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Teflon hose for the JIC ends

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Fitting in the steering box

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Fitting on the tundra pump. I think this will work out better than trying to find a banjo fitting that would work

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Since I smashed the shi1t out of my hand last night, I figured why not drive around and gather parts tonight so I can work on it friday night and get alot done this weekend.




:wrench:
 
Some photos of the braided line getting assembled for those of you that havent seen one made before.



The -6 steel high pressure compression fitting
Collar, ferrule, tube

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The collar goes on first

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Peel back a small amount of braided line to expose the teflon hose and insert the ferrule over the teflon hose and under the braded line

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Insert the fitting thru the ferrule into the teflon line

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And hand thread the collar over the whole assembly and tighten

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One complete

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A few photos of the air box

Heres the mocked up pipe

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I made a plate for the MAF to bolt to. Though it is simple in looks, it took a while because I wanted all the edges square and the hole symetrical. I tapped the threads.

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Test fit

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Welded in to the pipe. Post filter

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Airflow toward the TB

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A full mockup test fit

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Some urethane to seal up the pipes going into and out of the air box
Some of the factory seal was cracked and falling off. I scraped it off and sealed that up as well

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Under the air box lid, the parts were pressure fitted and spot welded

Removed that crap

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The top popped right off

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Nice fit

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Ill make a place to cover the top.

Im going to cut off the connector on the MAF and use another OEM connector so I can run the pigtail thru a grommet and be able to remove the pigtail and the lid as one unit.



:wrench:
 
I like your intake tube... that sounded gay.

its coming out great! appreciate the pics on installing the power steering lines. A real good reference. what did you use to cut the steel braided hose?


Is the the Mass Air Flow sensor is going to be located in the air box?
 
...what did you use to cut the steel braided hose?


Is the the Mass Air Flow sensor is going to be located in the air box?

I use tape to keep the braided part from fraying out before I get the collar on, and a cutoff wheel on my die grinder. Then the air line to blow any cutoff debris out of the line.

The mass air is in the air box. My thoughts were that it needed to be close to the filter since most of the toyotas with mafs are that way, and it should stay dry in there as well. Unless Its raining like he11 in which case I could flip the snorkle intake around to face backward.
 
i have never seen a maf in an airbox before. the outside of the maf will see much higher and airflow there than in the engine bay. i guess it will be ok but i expect it will get pretty dirty especially if you drive in dusty conditions or idle it next to restaurant hvac vent systems. you might want to cover it with something and put some heat shrink over the connector and wires just in case something nasty gets in there.

btw, is there a bug screen on the opening of the snorkel or can anything get in there?
 
i have never seen a maf in an airbox before. the outside of the maf will see much higher and airflow there than in the engine bay. i guess it will be ok but i expect it will get pretty dirty especially if you drive in dusty conditions or idle it next to restaurant hvac vent systems. you might want to cover it with something and put some heat shrink over the connector and wires just in case something nasty gets in there.

btw, is there a bug screen on the opening of the snorkel or can anything get in there?

The maf is still after the filter so its just like the factory set it up. The only difference is that the snorkel tube is longer than the pipe on the bottom of the factory tundra air box that extends down into the fender.
It shouldnt get a whole lot more dirty than if it were setup the same but only got hot air from inside the engine compartment.

There is a 3/4" x 3/4" diamond shaped grill to keep out large objects of the avian variety but not much more than that. (thats how the bee's got in there from the eariler photo)
Thats why I was saying that I could cover the end with cloth as a pre filter. There are a few companies that offer a "sock" made for such purposes.
 
The maf is still after the filter so its just like the factory set it up. The only difference is that the snorkel tube is longer than the pipe on the bottom of the factory tundra air box that extends down into the fender.
It shouldnt get a whole lot more dirty than if it were setup the same but only got hot air from inside the engine compartment.

There is a 3/4" x 3/4" diamond shaped grill to keep out large objects of the avian variety but not much more than that. (thats how the bee's got in there from the eariler photo)
Thats why I was saying that I could cover the end with cloth as a pre filter. There are a few companies that offer a "sock" made for such purposes.

in the stock set up the maf is exposed to engine bay airflow which is road speed partly shielded by the rad plus deflected engine fan flow -- probably less than driving with a window open. in your set up inside the canister the maf is exposed to the full engine airflow demands of the engine. that airflow is generated by engine vacuum not the size of the snorkle opening. a v8 sucks a ton of air so i would think that is a lot more airflow than it would see in a stock location, not to mention air containing more dust, crap and water, than sitting pretty inside the engine bay shielded by the radiator.

if it were me i would figure out some kind of dust/waterproof cover for the maf. maybe just a plastic wrap. mafs are expensive :D
 
The maf is still after the filter so its just like the factory set it up. The only difference is that the snorkel tube is longer than the pipe on the bottom of the factory tundra air box that extends down into the fender.
It shouldnt get a whole lot more dirty than if it were setup the same but only got hot air from inside the engine compartment.

How far away from the filter was the MAF on the stock set up? Depending on the MAF they are sometimes sensitive to having a run of pipe between the MAF and the filter to allow the air flow to straighten out. This results in a better estimation of air volume. Some aftermarket MAFs have reversion, noise cancelling and other functionality to make this a non issue. GM runs gen IV LS motors with both MAF and speed density, using each at different points in their air volume calcuations (I believe MAF at higher flow rates/rpms where there is less reversion and speed density at other times)...
 

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