Programming a Transponder Key for 99 TLC (2 Viewers)

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To update my issue and contribute to the overall thread here is what I ended up doing:

Originally, I had only one gray valet key (not programmed as a master)

I called Toyota and I qualified for a new ECU. I was told that I had to pay for labor and having 2 masters (with fobs) cut. Quote was $750.00

I called a locksmith and they said the could flash the ECU and cut me 2 masters (with fobs) for a total of $650.

I went with the Locksmith - He came to my work, flashed the ECU, programmed my gray valet as a master so that he could then program the 2 new masters (with fobs) as masters, cut a blank (with no transponder) off of the VIN, used the newly cut blank for verifying that the key was cut correctly for the door locks, cut my 2 masters (with fobs) and programmed them as masters in the ECU.

I ended up with 4 keys: 2 new masters with fobs, 1 gray valet (still programmed as a master) and a 100% metal "test" key with no transponder (it will only unlock the doors and the glove box).

When it came to programming the fobs, we ran into an issue due to my front driver's side door lock actuator being weak. In the instructions you are supposed to lock/unlock the front driver's side door 5 times, close/open door and lock/unlock the door another 5 times. My door locks got sluggish and could not keep up with the timing required in the programming instructions so he told me to get the actuator replaced and that he would then come back out and finish programming the fobs.

HERE IS THE VALUABLE INFO...

After the locksmith left, I followed the instructions for programming the fobs again but instead of pressing the unlock/lock button (above the window controls), I just manually flipped the "real" door lock button (next to the door handle) in-line with the instructions and it worked.

I now have functional fobs. I still need to figure out a way to change the valet key back to a non-master, but overall I am pleased with the results.

Lastly, here is a posting on this forum on how to source door actuator DC motors for like $1.00 a piece.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/237827-door-lock-actuator-replacement.html
This comes in way cheaper than having to buy the entire OEM assembly. I plan on replacing my actuator motor in the near future.
 
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SUCCESS AT LAST

Finally got a new key programmed. Toyota Europe threw me on a wrong track when they told me that it was not possible to program a new key using a manual procedure. I will edit my post in this thread.

Last week I decided to try calling Toyota Belgium where my HDJ came from. After talking with a lady telling me the dealer here shouldn't have problems using the euro version of techstream, i ended up receiving a email from the regional tech adviser, with a procedure to program the immobiliser and the remote lock / unlock. I gave him a call to explain toyota europe told me there weren't any procedure to program a key on my year truck. He told me not true and that what he just sent me was what i needed. On a funny note, he also told me before sending me the document he checked and made sure i was the owner....don't know how he did that....

Anyhow, i got this service bulletin last thursday, i tried maybe 15 times without any luck. I even use my phone to time and still nothing. This afternoon, before leaving for home i try a few more time...no go...then i remembered that if the maximum allowed number of key is programmed you cannot program a new one. So i decide to try the procedure to erase all keys....obviously except the key you use to do the procedure. After that i go ahead and try the program a master key procedure and to my surprise the security light goes off a couple of seconds after inserting the new key.!!Bingo the new key start the truck.

So the best advice i can give, if you simply insert the key in the ignition without turning the key, the security light goes out immediatly then you have a master key, a couple of seconds later, means a valey key.

Then there is no reason you cannot program a new key, if programming a new key does not work, go ahead with the erase key procedure and time yourself, you will mostlikely realize you aren't quick enough.

For the record my truck is a HDJ00 from europe, well the electronics and engine.

EDIT: i'm not going to post the document here but if you want it go ro your dealer and ask for Toyota service bulletin # BE-8012 (revised) / Date: Feb, 2000 / Area application: Europe, General, Australia. Page 1 to 9 covers 2UZ engine, but not from North America, page 10 to 16 all other engine.
 
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There seems to be a dearth of e-bay vendors for transponder keys for a 2000 LC lately. Anyone have recommendations of good vendors? Lost a key to the 2000, and need to program in a new one. Not thinking I have to erase them all, but I guess we'll see. I have one master and a valet.
 
There seems to be a dearth of e-bay vendors for transponder keys for a 2000 LC lately. Anyone have recommendations of good vendors? Lost a key to the 2000, and need to program in a new one. Not thinking I have to erase them all, but I guess we'll see. I have one master and a valet.

Get OEM. They are made by DENSO and say DENSO on them. The other ones will break at the base in no time. It is really worth it to just go OEM with this. You use your keys every day. What are you going to do when your key breaks in half all because you saved $70 going with some no name off of eBay. Think about it.

Btw, you will not have to erase them all.
 
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Done. I am also having actuator issues, and using the DS door lock button (v the power lock button) worked fine. I did have to go through the step of holding down the lock and unlock buttons simultaneously a few times to get the coding to "take", but it finally did. Nice to have a fully functioning master again.

One more question: Is it possible to convert the valet to a master key? Aside from the obvious downside (giving a valet the ability to copy your key) is this a cheap way to have an extra master for those of us who aren't habitually frequenting the valet stand? Would you have to delete it from the ECU first, or could you just program it like a new key? I'm trying to find a way to get a backup master without buying another transponder key. Too cheap?
 
Done. I am also having actuator issues, and using the DS door lock button (v the power lock button) worked fine. I did have to go through the step of holding down the lock and unlock buttons simultaneously a few times to get the coding to "take", but it finally did. Nice to have a fully functioning master again.

One more question: Is it possible to convert the valet to a master key? Aside from the obvious downside (giving a valet the ability to copy your key) is this a cheap way to have an extra master for those of us who aren't habitually frequenting the valet stand? Would you have to delete it from the ECU first, or could you just program it like a new key? I'm trying to find a way to get a backup master without buying another transponder key. Too cheap?

I had the same door actuator issues. I used the manual door lock button and all was fine.

Any key with a transponder (a transponder is not the buttons) can be programmed as a master. The glove box thing is determined by the length and cut of the key.

You can reprogram the key you want to use as a master even if it is not currently a master. I think you have to delete all but one (the master), then reprogram the remaining keys from that point forward.
 
Get OEM. They are made by DENSO and say DENSO on them. The other ones will break at the base in no time. It is really worth it to just go OEM with this. You use your keys every day. What are you going to do when your key breaks in half all because you saved $70 going with some no name off of eBay. Think about it.

Btw, you will not have to erase them all.

The master keys I've seen on eBay are OEM but the OEM keys aren't made that great anyway or there wouldn't be a big market for replacement key cases.
 
The master keys I've seen on eBay are OEM but the OEM keys aren't made that great anyway or there wouldn't be a big market for replacement key cases.

Agreed that OEM keys aren't made that great.

The point I was stating about buying OEM (like at a dealer) vs, something off of eBay (OEM, non-OEM) is that you really don't know what you are getting. Sure it says Denso but how many other inferior products (cheap copies, OEM looking copies, straight up counterfeits) are floating around eBay at any given moment?

The Chinese have reached the 4th generation of counterfeiting. At this level you basically have mirrors of real enterprise-level organizations that are fully staffed with departments you would typically see in a "real" enterprise (Production, QC, Support, etc.). Just because it says Denso doesn't mean that it is Denso. If the price is too good to be true, it probably is.

I learned this the hard way a few years back when purchasing "Nike" running shoes. In the US they were $150.00 and I got them through eBay for around $60 (shipped). They looked like the real thing all the way down to the tags, hologram stickers and box but something just didn't feel right when wearing them. A quick search on Google revealed the telltale signs of a counterfeited shoe (plastic construction on the center heel, air pocket seams, etc.) and within 2 minutes I knew I had a fake.

The point I am making is that consumers shouldn't just blindly trust goods with brand names when those said goods are not procured via an authorized agent. If I am buying a key with electronic components that I plan on using every single day, I think I'll go with something that I can verify to be the real McCoy.

Just my .02...
 
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Valid point and I'm very skeptical myself about these things. The guy I bought them from (keys_star) has over 8000 feedback so unless he's scamming a lot of people it looks legit.
 
1. KEY REGISTRATION IN AUTOMATIC REGISTRATION MODE

1. Registration of a new transponder key




HINT:

* This must be done when you install a new ECM.
* The new ECM is in the automatic key code registration mode. The already fixed number of key codes for this ECM can be registered. On this type of vehicle, up to 4 key codes can be registered.
* In the automatic registration mode, the key registered last becomes the subkey.




HINT:

* When a key is not inserted in the key cylinder in the automatic registration mode, the security indicator always lights on
* When the immobiliser system operates normally and the key is pulled out, the security indicator blinks.
* When key code registration could not be performed in the automatic registration mode, code 2-1 is output from the security indicator and when inserting the already registered key, code 2-2 is output.

2. Automatic registration mode completion If completing the mode forcibly when more than 1 key code have been registered in the automatic registration mode, perform the following procedures.

After 1 more key code have been registered with master key, perform step (1) or (2) without pulling the key out or inserting the already registered key.

1. Depress and release brake pedal 5 times or more within 15 sec
2. With the TOYOTA hand & held tester, require automatic registration mode completion.

2. KEY REGISTRATION PROCEDURE WHEN KEY OR KEY CYLINDER HAS BEEN REPLACED.

HINT: Key registration procedure of new master key and new subkey on this vehicle when new ignition cylinder and key set, and new lock cylinder set including ignition key cylinder are installed is described below.



1. Removing wire-less and immobiliser module from original master key.



2. Making new master key. After replacing and installing new ignition cylinder, install the removed original modules into new 2 key housings as supply parts.
3. Registration of supplied new subkey and /or master key Register supplied new subkey and /or master key by using new master key. (See step 3 and 4)

NOTE: In case of replacing ignition cylinder and key set, door locks cannot be opened with new ignition keys. Therefore, to avoid any trouble caused by empty battery of transmitter of new ignition key, please bring the original key while driving.

4. There are 2 ways for registration of additional master key, one way is depressing brake pedal and acceleration pedal and the other way is using TOYOTA hand-held tester.

HINT:

* It is possible to register up to 7 master key codes including the already registered key code.
* When any operation time described below is over, registration mode completes.
* When the next procedure is performed while the timer is working, the timer completes counting time, then next timer starts.
* When replacing "Ignition Cylinder Key Set" or "Lock Cylinder Set" register according to the following procedure using the original master key. However, after the registration of the additional master key, as the original master key and the original subkey are not necessary any more, erase registered of those key codes.



1. Depressing brake pedal and acceleration pedal:



2. Using TOYOTA hand-held tester:

3. REGISTRATION ADDITIONAL OF SUB-KEY
There are 2 ways for registration of additional subkey, one way is depressing brake pedal and acceleration pedal and the other way is using TOYOTA hand-held tester.
HINT:

* It is possible to register up to 3 subkey codes including the already registered key code.
* When any operation time described below is over, registration mode completes.
* When the next procedure is performed while the timer is working, the timer completes counting time, then next timer starts.



1. Depressing brake pedal and acceleration pedal:



2. Using TOYOTA hand-held tester:

4. ERASURE OF TRANSPONDER KEY CODE
There are 2 ways for erasure of transponder key code, one way is depressing brake pedal and acceleration pedal and the other way is using TOYOTA hand-held testers.
NOTE: Delete all other master and subkey codes leaving the master key code to use the operation. When using the key which was used before deletion, it is necessary to register the code again.
HINT:

* When any operation time described below is over, registration mode completes.
* When the next procedure is performed while the timer is working, the timer completes counting time, then next timer starts.



1. Depressing brake pedal and acceleration pedal:

HINT: When the key cannot be pulled out in the step 4, key code deletion is canceled. (Security indicator is OFF )



2. Using TOYOTA hand-held tester:

HINT: When the key cannot be pulled out in the step 3, key code deletion is canceled. (Security indicator is OFF )
 
99LC

About to purchase a 99LC, have one last question.

The key it has looks to be one of the original keys, but NO keyless entry buttons, panic buttons, etc.

See attached pic. How do i tell which type of key this is, and what I'm going to have to do to get one with the remote in it?

Thanks,
photo.JPG
 
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About to purchase a 99LC, have one last question.

The key it has looks to be one of the original keys, but NO keyless entry buttons, panic buttons, etc.

See attached pic. How do i tell which type of key this is, and what I'm going to have to do to get one with the remote in it?

Thanks,
Use the instructions listed in this thread to determine if its a master key (i.e. the security light goes out immediately upon insertion into the ignition).

If it is, and it were me, I wouldn't bother getting a key with the buttons in it. Just buy a cheaper, seperate fob for the door lock functions. I "think" you can do this. I'm not a fan of the all-in-one mega key, plus they break on a regular basis, and I always forget which miniature button is the unlock and which one is the panic button. They are very similar... :frown:
 
Hope someone can answer my questions. If i buy a key off of ebay for my LX....

1. Am i looking for the short or long key? I think it is the short key. correct me if i'm wrong.

2. Where do i get this key cut? It's different from a regular key. It's a backward pattern to a regular key. Locksmith?
 
Can the key fob be programmed to do things like roll down the windows?
 
fyi, i went to home depot and they were able to sell me a key cut from a non transponder key i had. it was 70 dollars. walked to truck stuck it in and it worked, apparently they just started doing them a few months ago. truck is a 2000 LC
 
Pasted from a post by CruiserDan in the "lost keys" thread:


"Here is how it works for 100 Series Land Cruisers. I can not speak for The LX470.

1998 through 2000 Land Cruisers require engine ECU replacement if there is no registered master key available. 2001 through 2007 Land Cruisers can be re-seeded by a dealer in order for them to accept new keys if there is no registered master key available."

and

"
More on keys. Again this applies to Land Cruiser only:

Oficially the only master key available is one with the button$ in the head. There are three different masters, one from 98-02, one from 03-5/2005 and one from 5/2005 up.

It is possible to use a plain master like in say, a Camry, so that you do not have to spend ~250 bucks for a key with the buttons in the head.

For 98-02 use 89785-26020
for 02-07 use 89785-60160

Beginning in 5-05 a replacement "key housing" for the master was made available. This is the head and key shaft that often break in two. Although it does not officially apply to the 98-05 the early transmitter guts will fit into it.

Housing, 89752-60060
Back cover, 89751-50011
Screw, 89759-41020
"
 
Thanks again for this info Dan. Do you have the part number for the so called "Camry" plain master key?
 
It's in the post above.


Thanks again for this info Dan. Do you have the part number for the so called "Camry" plain master key?

Pasted from a post by CruiserDan in the "lost keys" thread:


It is possible to use a plain master like in say, a Camry, so that you do not have to spend ~250 bucks for a key with the buttons in the head.

For 98-02 use 89785-26020
for 02-07 use 89785-60160
"
 
It's in the post above.

:doh:. I read that too quickly on my phone and assumed that you were referring to the key's with the built in buttons with those part numbers. Thanks again!
 
I just set up two of the Camry transponder keys on my 2000 using the steps on the first page. I now have more than one key that starts the truck now:bounce:

Thanks for the info all
 

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