The key that "happens" to be in the lock and is (duly) registered is the "master" key.
Programming a Transponder Key for 99 TLC
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Are you sure the transponder chip in the key is good? I know, hard to maybe impossible to test.
Have tried with other keys are well? You could have a (remoteless) transponder key cut and you could try with that one.
Yeah, I don't know the answer to that. I assumed the transponder was in the key, which isn't the case. I found that out when I transferred the transmitter to a new key. So it could be that the chip is bad or that I just can't program it (there is some suggestions here that 03/04 can't be done via sequence/techstream. I've programmed other keys before, via sequence and techstream. Sadly I'll have to go to the dealer to validate this. I did use the techstream to erase all keys from the system except the master. It seems that Techstream is the mechanism...it's just timing out.
I'll try in the next few days to program again.
make sure you have all the other doors locked
Yes, might not have read all posts, but the "transponder" in an OEM key is in the same assembly that houses the remote (and can be moved to a new empty key shell).
If you have a "non-remote" key, the transponder chip is embedded in the plastic/rubber "handle" and needs to be programmed. I was more thinking if you had a key like that you could test (your process) with.
I don't have one, I'd have to buy. One of those spend more money on another key or spend $55 on programming at the stealership.
My research... and my 03 Land Cruiser say that the 03-04 must be programmed by the dealer. I tried everything, did a ton of research, and finally found in a service manual that the 03-04 could not be programmed except by the dealer tool. I then placed a call to verify and found that in 05 Toyota decided to make it proramable throught the funky key dance again.
Note: The programming takes ~5 minutes, but they will typically charge you for an hour... and the dealership I went to held my vehicle the entire hour. Which in all honesty was probably the most frustrating part.
Note: The programming takes ~5 minutes, but they will typically charge you for an hour... and the dealership I went to held my vehicle the entire hour. Which in all honesty was probably the most frustrating part.
Question for 2000 LC
Lets say you have a key with built in remote having lock, unlock and panic buttons. As soon as you put it in the ignition switch the red security light turns off immediately. So it is a confirmed "Master key"
You want to buy another key with built in remote part #89070-60090 like this one: link
At this point, you go to this TLCfaq page to program your new key. The instructions don't specifically mention whether the procedure is for programming "as Master" or "as Valey". So the question is this: will this procedure program your new key as "Master" key or as a "Valet" key?
Lets say you have a key with built in remote having lock, unlock and panic buttons. As soon as you put it in the ignition switch the red security light turns off immediately. So it is a confirmed "Master key"
You want to buy another key with built in remote part #89070-60090 like this one: link
At this point, you go to this TLCfaq page to program your new key. The instructions don't specifically mention whether the procedure is for programming "as Master" or "as Valey". So the question is this: will this procedure program your new key as "Master" key or as a "Valet" key?
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
Try the thread in the FAQ, has both master and valet for your year.
This is a great thread.
One thing that has become rather important as the value of having security is outweighed by the need to live.
I have a 2000 auzzie "snowy" that is failing to register keys and it is intermittent in nature ..it could be anything.
But its not the key as i have 2 masters (light keeps blinking)..wiring? posibly key amp possibly?
What is most important is to be able to by pass all of this nonsense so that the risk to life and limb is reduced.
I will be "hacking" my cruiser as there is no way I am going gold prospecting again knowing that i might die because of a stupid circuit that is useless out there as the theft risk is zero.
I will post the solution here but it will take a quite some time ..it will be a few wires in the end ..just not sure which few ,but if any body has done this please post it here as i really don't want to re invent the wheel so to speak.
just need to tell the ecu the there is a good key inserted....or not by bass the fuel pump ..or both ..but a fix is surely needed for anybody whos life may depend on NOT having a failure .
I have a friend who lost his keys out there and almost died...with access to a full toolbox.
I think that ,as the theft value is such that there vehicles are no longer an organized crime target, ethics are intact.
Remember this is a potential life saver...please help if you have already been here .
other wise i can only travel with any confidence as far as i can walk out
Perhaps i should have kept my 80 series (LX450 for you yanks)
One thing that has become rather important as the value of having security is outweighed by the need to live.
I have a 2000 auzzie "snowy" that is failing to register keys and it is intermittent in nature ..it could be anything.
But its not the key as i have 2 masters (light keeps blinking)..wiring? posibly key amp possibly?
What is most important is to be able to by pass all of this nonsense so that the risk to life and limb is reduced.
I will be "hacking" my cruiser as there is no way I am going gold prospecting again knowing that i might die because of a stupid circuit that is useless out there as the theft risk is zero.
I will post the solution here but it will take a quite some time ..it will be a few wires in the end ..just not sure which few ,but if any body has done this please post it here as i really don't want to re invent the wheel so to speak.
just need to tell the ecu the there is a good key inserted....or not by bass the fuel pump ..or both ..but a fix is surely needed for anybody whos life may depend on NOT having a failure .
I have a friend who lost his keys out there and almost died...with access to a full toolbox.
I think that ,as the theft value is such that there vehicles are no longer an organized crime target, ethics are intact.
Remember this is a potential life saver...please help if you have already been here .
other wise i can only travel with any confidence as far as i can walk out
Perhaps i should have kept my 80 series (LX450 for you yanks)
Not 100% sure but it Sounds like you have the immobilizer issue and need to perhaps check the voltage at the infamous relay
just i case you have not checked try this link and read fully.
My immobilizer fix
I had similar issues with key and found out it was nothing to do with the key. There is a miniscule voltage drop between the fuse and relay. Some can correct by inserting a bigger 30A fuse but others like me have to go for the complete work around. also there is a neat bypass using a wire straight from fuse to relay output and this will get you home.
regards Chalky
just i case you have not checked try this link and read fully.
My immobilizer fix
I had similar issues with key and found out it was nothing to do with the key. There is a miniscule voltage drop between the fuse and relay. Some can correct by inserting a bigger 30A fuse but others like me have to go for the complete work around. also there is a neat bypass using a wire straight from fuse to relay output and this will get you home.
regards Chalky
Your issue sounds immobilizer related to me
Thanks for the link . I was quickly able to confirm that my problem is not this one but key recognition related ..the indicator keeps blinking like it does not recognize the key ...but i have many keys that work (when it does work)and i also have 2 vehicles ..1 for parts but both are working well so 1 is set up for beach use and the other for prospecting trips (has 16 ply skinnies) as opposed to so called off road tyros which don't last 5 minutes where there are no roads which kinda contradicts (off road ) what they mean is dirt road with no sharp rocks and no sticks which rip through the side walls of radials like a knife through butter..I digress.
Some days it works perfect and my initial thought were that it must be the ignition key amplifier but a change out disproved that.
The sense coil is ok . When it decides to work it is ok for the whole day ....so far
Funny this is that this vehicle was bought at auction for a good price having been stolen and recovered..I now suspect that the previous owner had experienced these issues and well i cant prove it but it would be a good reason to not want this particular vehicle.
As reliable as they usually are as these things age the reliability can only go down .
I cant understand how regulations that are supposed to stop car theft are aimed at the cars and the owners rather than the idiots who feel its ok to take what is not theirs to take. but that is another subject
I will begin a new thread and link to it from here when/if I am successful with my bypass
Some days it works perfect and my initial thought were that it must be the ignition key amplifier but a change out disproved that.
The sense coil is ok . When it decides to work it is ok for the whole day ....so far
Funny this is that this vehicle was bought at auction for a good price having been stolen and recovered..I now suspect that the previous owner had experienced these issues and well i cant prove it but it would be a good reason to not want this particular vehicle.
As reliable as they usually are as these things age the reliability can only go down .
I cant understand how regulations that are supposed to stop car theft are aimed at the cars and the owners rather than the idiots who feel its ok to take what is not theirs to take. but that is another subject
I will begin a new thread and link to it from here when/if I am successful with my bypass
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I know this may come across wrong and perhaps sounds like I am blinkered to your experience of working on this issue but
if you have a blinking light using a master key then please try the connection suggested in the link above with the same key.
There are 2 quick checks the first is replace the 20A with 30A fuse and the second is a jump lead from fuse to relay output.
If either work then do the complete work around as suggested by the thread.
I had all manner of issues just like you are describing. If you do the workaround as described it does not harm your security it only makes sure that you have the required full 12 volts.
OH yes thats another issue s your battery good?? if not and under full output this can happen.
If you want to re-programme a key as valet (not a master) key I used this following set of functions and it worked for me.
1. Start with key out of ignition, important]drivers door is open all others closed and
drivers door is unlocked.
2. Insert key into the ignition (Do NOT Turn) and Pull key out.
3. Perform these steps within 40 seconds.
A. Using the power lock switch on the drivers door, perform 5 lock/unlock cycles
starting with lock. Use an even pace and try to go about one cycle per second.
(1Cycle = 1 lock and 1 unlock).
B. Close, then open drivers door.
4. Perform these steps within 40 seconds.
A. Using the power lock switch on the drivers door, perform 5 lock/unlock cycles
starting with lock. Use an even pace and try to go about one cycle per second.
(1Cycle = 1 lock and 1 unlock).
B. Insert the key in the ignition cylinder.
C. Turn the ignition to ON (Do NOT Start) then back to OFF.
D. Remove the key from the ignition.
5. Within 3 seconds the power door locks should cycle automatically indicating successful
entry into programming mode. Return to step 1 if the locks do not cycle at this point.
6. Perform these steps within 40 seconds.
A. Press the lock and unlock buttons on the remote simultaneously for 1 second.
B. Immediately after letting go of the lock and unlock buttons, press the lock button by
itself and hold for 2 seconds. Within 3 seconds, the door locks should cycle once
indicating successful programming. If the door locks do not cycle, or cycle twice.
repeat steps A and B in step 6 as your remote has not been accepted.
C. Repeat steps A and B in step 6 for each new remote.
7. Close drivers door.
Good luck regards Chalky
if you have a blinking light using a master key then please try the connection suggested in the link above with the same key.
There are 2 quick checks the first is replace the 20A with 30A fuse and the second is a jump lead from fuse to relay output.
If either work then do the complete work around as suggested by the thread.
I had all manner of issues just like you are describing. If you do the workaround as described it does not harm your security it only makes sure that you have the required full 12 volts.
OH yes thats another issue s your battery good?? if not and under full output this can happen.
If you want to re-programme a key as valet (not a master) key I used this following set of functions and it worked for me.
1. Start with key out of ignition, important]drivers door is open all others closed and
drivers door is unlocked.
2. Insert key into the ignition (Do NOT Turn) and Pull key out.
3. Perform these steps within 40 seconds.
A. Using the power lock switch on the drivers door, perform 5 lock/unlock cycles
starting with lock. Use an even pace and try to go about one cycle per second.
(1Cycle = 1 lock and 1 unlock).
B. Close, then open drivers door.
4. Perform these steps within 40 seconds.
A. Using the power lock switch on the drivers door, perform 5 lock/unlock cycles
starting with lock. Use an even pace and try to go about one cycle per second.
(1Cycle = 1 lock and 1 unlock).
B. Insert the key in the ignition cylinder.
C. Turn the ignition to ON (Do NOT Start) then back to OFF.
D. Remove the key from the ignition.
5. Within 3 seconds the power door locks should cycle automatically indicating successful
entry into programming mode. Return to step 1 if the locks do not cycle at this point.
6. Perform these steps within 40 seconds.
A. Press the lock and unlock buttons on the remote simultaneously for 1 second.
B. Immediately after letting go of the lock and unlock buttons, press the lock button by
itself and hold for 2 seconds. Within 3 seconds, the door locks should cycle once
indicating successful programming. If the door locks do not cycle, or cycle twice.
repeat steps A and B in step 6 as your remote has not been accepted.
C. Repeat steps A and B in step 6 for each new remote.
7. Close drivers door.
Good luck regards Chalky
Well taken and help is appreciated with good intentions .
This stuff can be confusing even for those who are often less confused.
Im pretty sure that the above instructions are for the remote lock un lock ..at least that is what i use for the remote locking as opposed to key recognition. The key reprogram sequence is done with ignition lock cycles on mine .
With all the models and different systems in different countries its very hard to follow some of these well meant and helpful guidance here.
A good example is when somebody refers to the passenger side ..the reader then has to establish which country the poster is in and while it is basic ,when you are trying to solve a problem it can mean a lot of work and further problems
In Australia the 1999 -2004 remote lock is separate to the key recognition . they use a remote battery fob which is the same a Toyota Camry
the key is battery less and has an R.F.I.D. tag built in and is activated by a coil around the ignition barrel so that when the key gets near it a code is sent into the system to identify the key .
If you lose the remote fob(door lock/unlock) you can still access and drive the vehicle with the key as long a the system
can see a correct key. This is entirely separate to the door lock system.
as least in the auzzie model that i refer to.
Please don't be concerned if this is wrong for you but if you have the auzzie version it is right.
Perhaps we need a separate thread for each country..but who knows exactly what model the have anyway?
Any body reading this thread can see the contradictions but the context is king so don't give up ..just see what applies to you .
The same looking car can have entirely different internals "OH WHAT A FEELING !" (aussie version of their advertising branding)
One of my vehicles had the ac condenser fan relay entirely missing from new .I eventually found it under the left hand front guard (passenger side in oz) Plugged in a standard relay to the dusty socket and now had a cool car at traffic lights.
but thanks Chalky
I will soldier on
Lindsay
Yep agree to all that.
I have the ac relay under front bumper drivers side - lefthand drive.
The reprogramming sequence was good for adding a key on my 1999 4.7 v8 LC. It does not add a new master Key. If you are having problems with a master key and flashing light when the key is inserted them that is what i had. Car sometimes worked fine and then it decided to not work. If spent hours looking at all manner of things including a new fuel pump. Wish I hadn't and i wish I had found out about the link I gave you earlier.
The voltage drop from the fuse to relay (as per the link I gave you) and immobiliser issue was cured by the simple rewiring. If you actually monitor the voltage it is less than 12V at the relay and this is something to do with the internals of the fuse box. Many have replaced the fuse box at huge expense I at least avoided that. When you throw the start the voltage drops even more but only by a little and this is enough fir the whole system to not work. This fix makes sure that the relay outputs a full 12 V and no affect on security.
take care and good luck.
Chalky
I have the ac relay under front bumper drivers side - lefthand drive.
The reprogramming sequence was good for adding a key on my 1999 4.7 v8 LC. It does not add a new master Key. If you are having problems with a master key and flashing light when the key is inserted them that is what i had. Car sometimes worked fine and then it decided to not work. If spent hours looking at all manner of things including a new fuel pump. Wish I hadn't and i wish I had found out about the link I gave you earlier.
The voltage drop from the fuse to relay (as per the link I gave you) and immobiliser issue was cured by the simple rewiring. If you actually monitor the voltage it is less than 12V at the relay and this is something to do with the internals of the fuse box. Many have replaced the fuse box at huge expense I at least avoided that. When you throw the start the voltage drops even more but only by a little and this is enough fir the whole system to not work. This fix makes sure that the relay outputs a full 12 V and no affect on security.
take care and good luck.
Chalky
Update,,,
I found the problem or at least the intermittent loom
the Transponder Key Computer plug has a bad connection on the loom side .
it is located behind the drivers side vent (rhs) ..and there was evidence of previous tampering so my auction theory looks pretty good.
it is hard to locate the actual wire because of the delays involved but it surely is the culprit here.
I am still determined to by pass this rubbish that serves no purpose other than to upset or kill me .
any body else out there be warned it is not safe . I know we should always have aback up plan but with things like gold prospecting it does not apply . A locator beacon is the only option but very expensive if you need a rescue.
I found the problem or at least the intermittent loom
the Transponder Key Computer plug has a bad connection on the loom side .
it is located behind the drivers side vent (rhs) ..and there was evidence of previous tampering so my auction theory looks pretty good.
it is hard to locate the actual wire because of the delays involved but it surely is the culprit here.
I am still determined to by pass this rubbish that serves no purpose other than to upset or kill me .
any body else out there be warned it is not safe . I know we should always have aback up plan but with things like gold prospecting it does not apply . A locator beacon is the only option but very expensive if you need a rescue.
Great news.
Can you take a picture of the offending connector please. Would love to know which one as it might be a real help in the future.
regards Chalky
Can you take a picture of the offending connector please. Would love to know which one as it might be a real help in the future.
regards Chalky
Will do ...
I have noticed that if i disconnect(unplug) the Transponder Key Computer plug the security light goes out and the car will start but not run because the fuel supply is shut off...note there is still spark
My attack will be to prevent the fuel from shutting off by working just to enable that circuit .
There are 4 possible wires that could be intermittent but for now i can just wriggle the loom and the security light goes out.
If it is already working there is no way to diagnose it as once it works it remains happy until I switch off an remove the key
I'm pretty sure that it will be behind the drivers side vent in left hand drive vehicles but who really knows
I have noticed that if i disconnect(unplug) the Transponder Key Computer plug the security light goes out and the car will start but not run because the fuel supply is shut off...note there is still spark
My attack will be to prevent the fuel from shutting off by working just to enable that circuit .
There are 4 possible wires that could be intermittent but for now i can just wriggle the loom and the security light goes out.
If it is already working there is no way to diagnose it as once it works it remains happy until I switch off an remove the key
I'm pretty sure that it will be behind the drivers side vent in left hand drive vehicles but who really knows
Hi nikolatesla
see if any of these pages help you.
sorry some of the pages are upside-down but being from down-under that should not be a problem for you.
mine is a 1999 LHD v8 4.7 but most looms and parts are common. This should help you work through the issues.
if you need more because you think it will help just shout.
see if any of these pages help you.
sorry some of the pages are upside-down but being from down-under that should not be a problem for you.
mine is a 1999 LHD v8 4.7 but most looms and parts are common. This should help you work through the issues.
if you need more because you think it will help just shout.
