My immobilizer fix (1 Viewer)

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drjman said:
I used a regular spade connector and initially did have problems. I took it out and bent it slightly so it went it much tighter. I did the same with a few other connections and haven't had a problem since.

EDIT:
All of this is temporary fix until I finally shell out for a new fuse box. I figure if I can mess with it over time and always have that emergency wire to get started (even the wife knows how to use it), then this buys me time and extends my wallet.
Click to expand...

I have the fuse box sitting on my coffee table and was going to take it apart and solder to the contacts etc. I can't get it apart so I'm going to cut down from above and hopefully solder to the contacts that way.

Funny about your wife. Mine knew the fuse wiggle drill and had done it a couple times as well.

In my case the cut down spade for the bypass I made was as intermittent as the fuse so it really accomplished nothing.
 
Fuel pump working, good fuel pressure out of filter.
Good spark.
Good EFI fuse. Tried 30 amp as well as jumper. Good voltage.
Tested EFI relay as video had shown. Bypassed relay to slot F.
No start...
Reading codes tomorrow.

Maybe I don't have the immobilizer???
Any ideas? I've been on mud for hours the last few nights. Rifle season opens tomorrow and I have a feeling I'll be in my shop all weekend. Ugh.....
 
a31gun said:
Fuel pump working, good fuel pressure out of filter.
Good spark.
Good EFI fuse. Tried 30 amp as well as jumper. Good voltage.
Tested EFI relay as video had shown. Bypassed relay to slot F.
No start...
Reading codes tomorrow.

Maybe I don't have the immobilizer???
Any ideas? I've been on mud for hours the last few nights. Rifle season opens tomorrow and I have a feeling I'll be in my shop all weekend. Ugh.....
Click to expand...
Is the immobilizer light blinking when you get in the car?

Does it turn off when you turn the key?

Do you have another key you can try?
 
Ok, I'm new to this cruiser. I have no immobilizer light.

New battery this morning jumped hot to terminal F EFI relay slot. No start. Where from here?

Ordered new crank position sensor.

Is there a cam position sensor?

I need to add, a few times is the past I started truck and it fired up then died. Restarted and all was fine.
When truck went down (crank no Start) it did this a few times before not starting. It did start once on the trail and idle was below normal and wouldn't take any throttle given.

Still in search to borrow or buy a scanner.
 
Correction. .. I do have the light. Was looking on my cluster. I told I was new to this. I'm back in my shop today and I'll see how it goes. A LOT of knowledge on this site!

Spent the evening Tweeking on my 4runner to replace my immobilized LX

20161118_191048.jpg
 
medtro said:
I got the famous crank but not start immobilizer problem. I replaced the 20A EFI fuse with a 30A fuse and it started right away. However, it was a temporary fix. I had the same problem again 4 days later. This is what I did to get the engine started. It has been working with no problem for close to 4 weeks now, I thought I would share this with the group.

Fuse terminals: A, B
EFI relay terminals: C, D, E, F

View attachment 1311409

With the EFI fuse in place and relay removed, I ran a wire from the battery positive terminal to terminal F, engine started with no problem. This tells me problem was at upstream or bad relay.

PS: This is a good wire to have in the car for emergency fix.

View attachment 1311410

Factory EFI relay tested good. Next, I shorted terminals E and F, engine cranked but not started. This tells me the power from terminal E was not good enough to start the engine. With the help of voltmeter, I found out there was 0.44V voltage drop between the battery and terminal E with factory 20A fuse in place. Voltage drop was 0.14V with 30A fuse. The engine wouldn't start even with 0.14V voltage drop. I came up with the following to bypass the internal circuit between terminals B & E in order to reduce the voltage drop between the battery and terminal F.

I used a Tyco V23234-A1001-X043 Mini Relay 12V. Make sure the relay you use has suppression protection if you are going to do this, otherwise this could cause damage to your ECM.

Wiring diagram:
Terminal A to 20A inline fuse to terminal 87 of Bosch relay
Terminal F to terminal 30 of Bosch relay
Terminal C to terminal 85 of Bosch relay
Terminal D to terminal 86 of Bosch relay
No connection for terminals B and E

Factory EFI relay can be used in this setup. I used Bosch relay because I want the relay to sit flat in the fuse box. I also put a piece of high density foam between the fuse box cover and Bosch relay to "secure" it better in place.

View attachment 1311417
View attachment 1311418
Click to expand...
What did do you use to connect to Terminal A, it's half of a fuse prong right?
 
What did you use to connect to Terminal A, it's south of a fusetron right?
medtro said:
I got the famous crank but not start immobilizer problem. I replaced the 20A EFI fuse with a 30A fuse and it started right away. However, it was a temporary fix. I had the same problem again 4 days later. This is what I did to get the engine started. It has been working with no problem for close to 4 weeks now, I thought I would share this with the group.

Fuse terminals: A, B
EFI relay terminals: C, D, E, F

View attachment 1311409

With the EFI fuse in place and relay removed, I ran a wire from the battery positive terminal to terminal F, engine started with no problem. This tells me problem was at upstream or bad relay.

PS: This is a good wire to have in the car for emergency fix.

View attachment 1311410

Factory EFI relay tested good. Next, I shorted terminals E and F, engine cranked but not started. This tells me the power from terminal E was not good enough to start the engine. With the help of voltmeter, I found out there was 0.44V voltage drop between the battery and terminal E with factory 20A fuse in place. Voltage drop was 0.14V with 30A fuse. The engine wouldn't start even with 0.14V voltage drop. I came up with the following to bypass the internal circuit between terminals B & E in order to reduce the voltage drop between the battery and terminal F.

I used a Tyco V23234-A1001-X043 Mini Relay 12V. Make sure the relay you use has suppression protection if you are going to do this, otherwise this could cause damage to your ECM.

Wiring diagram:
Terminal A to 20A inline fuse to terminal 87 of Bosch relay
Terminal F to terminal 30 of Bosch relay
Terminal C to terminal 85 of Bosch relay
Terminal D to terminal 86 of Bosch relay
No connection for terminals B and E

Factory EFI relay can be used in this setup. I used Bosch relay because I want the relay to sit flat in the fuse box. I also put a piece of high density foam between the fuse box cover and Bosch relay to "secure" it better in place.

View attachment 1311417
View attachment 1311418
Click to expand...
 
I was happy to get it started after 2 weeks by connecting the battery direct to the efi....but my wire job to replicate your bypass did not work. I used existing relay......I am not 100 percent i did it right. Im going to get a bosh relay so at least i will have the pins right for sure
 
Bosch relays are not long lasting so get the OEM relay in place.
A relay is a simple piece of an electronic.
It has 4 pins (Say P, Q, R and S).
Two pins are primary circuit (say P and Q): Use a multimeter to identify these two terminals. Use the Ohm scale and you will see a connectivity when the two are connected.
These are the ONLY two that shows the connectivity.
Now give 12 V to these pins (polarity does not matter): The current will generate a magnetic field in the primary circuit and it will PULL a metal tab to make a connection with the R and S posts. R and S is the switch: According to OP's designations, it is E and F posts. Again, polarity does not matter. As soon as you remove the 12V to P-R primary circuit, you will see R and S get disconnected.
Make sure to use an inline fuse for the incoming + 12V post (R or S post)

See attached:

Untitled.png
 
medtro said:
I checked the fuse receptacle on the power side when I did my bypass, the connection was good and I have zero problem so far. You can run that wire to battery positive terminal if that is a concern.
Click to expand...
Thank you....I was really frustrated because my wire job did not work until I wired direct to the battery. Interesting side note, I left the key in overnight and the immobilizer light went off and it started the next day as the immobilizer light was off. then, I turned off the car and immobilizer light was still off but would not start. Took the key out then put it back in and immobilizer light did the same thing by not turning off, so no use even turning the key at that point. Left it overnight and immobilizer light went off again and would not start until I jumped the EFI terminal from the battery.
 
I have installed the workaround/fix on my 1999 series 100 4.7 V8.
Excellent stuff
thank you
Chalky
 
Hi. I ordered the relay that was posted but I got one with 5 prongs. The extra one being 87a. Does anyone know if this will still work or how to make it work using it? Thanks
 
The problem is the socket that the Efi fuse inserted into expanded so if you look straight down at it, you will notice that the spread is pretty wide so it may not touch the fuse.

What I did is twist one of the fuse leg toward the side to touch the socket and it's been good since.
 
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