problems after transmission flush

[travellingman]

Hey guys i had the mechanic do a full transmission flush with new filters. I have done this every 30k miles on my 2005 lx470 and the car runs like a dream. After i picked up the car it drove about 5 miles then went into a limp mode where it would not engage the transmission. Almost like it is starting in fifth gear. The only way i could get it back to the mechanic is in 4lo. He checked it with the computer and it had a code about a solenoid. He cleared the code and it ran like a top for about five miles and had to repeat the process to get it back to the mechanic. He couldn't find anything wrong with the transmission so he sent it to a big transmission shop in town. They said it needs a whole new transmission and it will cost 5k. It has 150k miles on it. I have had since 80k miles and have impeccable service records from the original owner and have continued with impeccable service since. I feel like its something simple like they forgot to plug something in especially since it runs great when you clear code. I feel like a simple maintenance should not turn into a 5k new transmission.
Your thoughts?

 

[95Fantasma80]

That is scary, do you think its something the mechanic did? With that impeccable service history how does it decide to completely crap out after being with the mechanic.

Is the Mechanic offering to cover the expense?

 

[Pyrenees]

Ugh, I am sorry that you are in this spot. This is literally why I only drain-and-fill a transmission (or do the lazy change process) but don't flush. The fact that you're seeing a code about a solenoid after having a flush performed means that debris that had previously settled probably got lodged in a place where the tolerances are too slim to accept debris. I would not jump to a new transmission though.

I don't know if flushing it repeatedly, driving it in various modes or disassembling something is the better answer here. Maybe someone more experienced than I can tell you that. I've dealt with this solenoid pain in the ass when I had a Volvo and a VW (the XC90's had weak GM-transmission valve body problems and the VW DSG's had mechatronic failures) but I am still a 100-series noob after a few months here so I hope one of the old guys can puff on his pipe and give some knowledge.

 

[MountaineerLC]

Did your mechanic give anymore info on the solenoid fault? I believe I'd start there.

 

[Spike555]

Every reputable transmssion shop in the world will tell you not to flush your transmission with a solvent, you will never get all of it out and it will ruin your transmission.

Did he use the correct fluid?
Is it at the proper level?
These five miles, city stop and go traffic or expressway?

 

[danielharro]

I had this very thing happen to myself after flushing my transmission. It could be that the main wiring harness became slightly disconnected. The wiring harness is found on the drivers side of the car adjacent to the fill plug. I must have bumped mine when messing around with getting the fill plug on and off. I would look at that harness before you do anything.

 

[danielharro]

Here is what I posted a few years ago. Attached is also a photo of the wiring harness connection plug. If you note it has a arm that folds up and down on the connector itself so that it needs to be in the unlock position to fully unplug it. My arm must have unlocked the safely feature of that harness and caused a poor connection. Anyways check that connector before anything!

post-tranmission-fluid-change-issues.938839

 

[travellingman]

Hey guys
Im not sure what fluid he used. I have several vehicles and its my same mechanic that does all my stuff. I feel fairly confident in his abilities.
The five miles are suburb traffic. A few lights and stops and starts. I will get the code on monday. The mechanic told me what the transmission shop said and he didn't sound too confident and suggested a few more opinions. Im going to look at that harness thing. I really hope that its just a loose plug. I suggested maybe they didn't plug things in or blew a fuse or something so simple as it worked great before the flush and then keeps working great after the code is cleared. I don't think you can clear a code on a blown transmission and it works great again. A blown transmission is blown!

 

[travellingman]

Every reputable transmssion shop in the world will tell you not to flush your transmission with a solvent, you will never get all of it out and it will ruin your transmission.

Did he use the correct fluid?
Is it at the proper level?
These five miles, city stop and go traffic or expressway?

I didn't know about the drain and fill thing i always do full filter swaps. Is a drain and fill the general consensus? I really don't know. I have not checked the fluid levels. After it didn't work i just left it there. I hate paying people to do a job and then have to go behind them to make sure they did it UGH!!! Ill check monday and get the codes

 

[travellingman]

That is scary, do you think its something the mechanic did? With that impeccable service history how does it decide to completely crap out after being with the mechanic.

Is the Mechanic offering to cover the expense?

No hes not offering anything except he thinks I'm right and that it doesn't need a new transmission. He says to get a second opinion. He has always maintained my vehicles and has done all the service on this vehicle. He also said this type of vehicle goes well over 150k on a transmission. He like me thinks its something small and dumb that no one can find. I am really hoping for that wiring harness thing as that seems like the main culprit
Thanks guys I will keep everyone updated

 

[Spike555]

I didn't know about the drain and fill thing i always do full filter swaps. Is a drain and fill the general consensus? I really don't know. I have not checked the fluid levels. After it didn't work i just left it there. I hate paying people to do a job and then have to go behind them to make sure they did it UGH!!! Ill check monday and get the codes

That’s all well and good. It never hurts to change the filter, just using a cleaner that transmissions don’t like.
I do a drain and fill every 50,000 miles, some go longer. Some sooner.

This does not sound like a bad transmission to me. Clearing the code won’t make it suddenly start working again, either it’s bad or it’s not.

Get a second opinion.

You trust your guy, ask what fluid he used and make sure it was Toyota WS (world service) approved, I use Valvoline MAxLife ATF. I used to sell bulk automotive fluids and if he bought his transmission fluid by the drum and used that he may have used the wrong fluid and not realized it.
The “by the drum” transmission fluid is good for 99.9% of the cars on the road. So just ask him what brand fluid he used and then you will need to Google it to make sure it is WS approved.
Engine coolant is universal, but transmission fluid is not.
Most shops buy all of their fluids by the 55gal drum, if they do not do a ton of transmssion work they will buy that by the case instead because it is wasted money storing supplies. All of your money is tied up in inventory. So small use fluids you buy as needed from a local supplier, like NAPA who will deliver it to your shop.
Some large cities have import parts only suppliers and they order from them for small use fluids, they would have brought the correct fluid.

 

[nissanh]

Did you use an oem filter? If oem, then the issue cannot be the filter.

Did the mechanic installed the filter correctly in correct side? Did the filter mounted correctly to the valve body?

Did the mechanic used a proper fluid and right quantity?

Is the shift lever bolt tight? Wireplugs all properly connected?

I always drain and fill the transmission with oem fluid every 10K or less, but never touch the filter.

 

[2001LC]

I've only done a few 04 up (4spd w/OD) full flushing (exchanging 12qt of fluid), which are dip stick less. Those are a real PITA to set level correctly. Many are not aware a TSB came out that changed the temp we check fluid at on them. So pre 2010 IRCC when someone uses the trip the dash light method to determine temp, aren't setting level correctly.

It's my understanding Filter (actually a pickup screen, 04 up) has a rubber O-ring, which must be in place and it's bolts torqued to spec. If it were me I drop the pan again a take a peak.

Perhaps you should have Toyota or Lexus Dealer look at it next, and go in shop while they do.


I've done full flushes many times on the 100 with dip stick (98-02 3spd), pre Toyota WS ATF, and never had a problem "knock on wood" Just did one with 350K miles on the clock. I have pulled the pickup screen in the 3 spd w/OD once, which was a waste of time really. Cleaning the bottom of pan was only benefit from pull pan.

01LC

There is three gasket that are on pickup screen that must be in place and bolt torqued to spec. 01LC

 

[Spike555]

I've only done a few 04 plus full flushing (exchanging 12qt of fluid), which are dip stick less. Those are a real PITA to set level correctly. Many are not aware a TSB came out that changed the temp we check fluid at on them. So pre 2010 IRCC when someone uses the trip the dash light method to determine temp, aren't setting leave correctly.

It's my understanding Filter (actually a pickup screen) has a rubber O-ring, which must be in place and it's bolts torqued to spec. If it were me I drop the pan again a take a peak.

Perhaps you should have Toyota or Lexus Dealer look at it next, and go in shop while they do.


I've done full flushes many times on the 100 with dip stick, pre Toyota WS ATF, and never had a problem "knock on wood" Just did one with 350K miles on the clock. I have pulled the pickup screen in the 3 spd w/OD once, which was a waste of time really. Cleaning the bottom of pan was only benefit from pull pan.
View attachment 1834158
01LCView attachment 1834144
View attachment 1834146
There is three gasket that are on pickup screen that must be in place and bolt torqued to spec. 01LC
View attachment 1834150

Good call on the o-ring for the filter.
Setting the fluid level on a dip stick less transmission is not hard, you pump in to much fluid, drive it around to get it hot, park level, remove “check plug” and let the excess fluid drain out of that. Once proper fluid level is reached replace the plug and you’re golden.

 

[travellingman]

Did you use an oem filter? If oem, then the issue cannot be the filter.

Did the mechanic installed the filter correctly in correct side? Did the filter mounted correctly to the valve body?

Did the mechanic used a proper fluid and right quantity?

Is the shift lever bolt tight? Wireplugs all properly connected?

I always drain and fill the transmission with oem fluid every 10K or less, but never touch the filter.

I’m going to get the car back on Monday and do some of my own homework. The mechanic has done this job well for me on this vehicle. I’m really hoping it’s just a plug or something.

 

[looking4lc]

O-RING filter will not cause the issue OP is facing, truck will act weird but not limp mode, I once have forgotten it and realized the problem months later. if your issue is not wiring connection, I would try to clean each solenoid with electric aerosol cleaner then blow it with air till dry. also, you need to confirm the oil type placed in the pan and not to fill it with other than Toyota WS.

best of luck

 

[nissanh]

Since you have the issue after every 5 miles and weather is cold making trans temp to stay almost at atmospheric temperature, I think it is the fliud or fluid is not circulating well?

 

[2001LC]

O-RING filter will not cause the issue OP is facing, truck will act weird but not limp mode, I once have forgotten it and realized the problem months later. if your issue is not wiring connection, I would try to clean each solenoid with electric aerosol cleaner then blow it with air till dry. also, you need to confirm the oil type placed in the pan and not to fill it with other than Toyota WS.

best of luck

Good to know! Your forgetting O-ring could have drop flow/pressure a bit perhaps staving pump slightly, I suppose. When you say "weird" how did it act?

This is not directed at you @looking4lc or anyone here, just more general thoughts on issue.

Whenever issue starts right after work completed, I'd go there first!

There are a few things that could have happen during "pulling pan" and "flushing".

It also possible O-ring didn't seat properly, then it or a piece of, traveled blocking flow, who knows. Point being if pan pulled and issue began after, I'd pull pan and look.

Starting by checking level "by the book" in the spec temp range as investigative diagnoses inspection, not just driving around the block. It's PITA not just location and method involved without dip stick. But if level is correct when checked, you don't know that. It could be low as you'll not get follow from check plug in either case. So you must either add some ATF, which is also PITA, or raise fluid temperature above spec expanding to see flow from check plug. If level just a little low, I'd only expected hard shifting or possible some slippage. If to low it could have damage.

In the 3spd trans pictures above, we see wires and wire housings, we may also have these in the newer transmission IDK. Could be something happen to them, cut/dislodged.

It sounds like he had a trusted mechanic, but he did not say Toyota of Lexus shop. He also said filter, which we don't have. He didn't say WS ATF. I see so often issues caused by bad practice or mistakes from general corner auto shops even from Dealerships shops, S**T happens.

But Dealership see more of these transmission and have better understanding of them than a transmission shop, and know it has TSB. Actually the 04-May 05 has two different TSB's.

These transmission if properly maintained rarely fail. Failure after a flushing isn't common, even one not previously flush for 350K miles IMHO.

 

[looking4lc]

Good to know! Your forgetting O-ring could have drop flow/pressure a bit perhaps staving pump slightly, I suppose. When you say "weird" how did it act?

whenever it shifts to the 3rd gear, rpm raises up quickly and drop to normal, just like burning clutch

 

[looking4lc]

Starting by checking level "by the book" in the spec temp range as investigative diagnoses inspection, not just driving around the block. It's PITA not just location and method involved without dip stick. But if level is correct when checked, you don't know that. It could be low as you'll not get follow from check plug in either case. So you must either add some ATF, which is also PITA, or raise fluid temperature above spec expanding to see flow from check plug. If level just a little low, I'd only expected hard shifting or possible some slippage. If to low it could have damage.

when I was checking the level, it was a nightmare, though I did it exactly as the procedure mentioned, I was low like 3/4 quart.

Paul I know how precise you are when you do the work however, I found an easy way to do it from transmission shop.
you let the car run for 15 mins after adding a decent amount of fluid. while the car is running, you loose the drain plug to a point where fluid can come out. then you pump more fluid and once oil is coming from the drain plug, stop pumping and wait for the excess oil to drain and tight the plug. DONE.
I did it that way and the shifting is smooth as silk now