- Thread starter
- #21
So I finally got my front procomp shocks installed. They are the ones with the 12.5" travel.
No pictures yet as it's dark outside, and probably none before I go to work. (Yeah, it's cruel of me to post something like this and tease you without pics.)
After a lot of different plans and ideas on how to do the front shocks (I'm not OCD, Nay! I'm not!), I ended up doing something really simple.
For the bottom mounts I simply welded on a stud to eye adapter. Similar to this one:
(Though not that one, as Summit is silly overpriced. I think I paid like $5 a pop for mine.)
For the top I found some box steel the same dimensions. Cut off about a 2" long section, drilled a hole through the side, cut a square hole on the top of the existing shock mount, then welded it in. Super easy, looks great, and gave me about two or even three inches more of clearance. Remember, the stock setup has a bushing that spaces down the shock body by about 1/2 of an inch or so, so you gain that plus however high the new mount is.
I could have done something more complex and gone even higher, but didn't for two main reasons. One, it's more complex (simple solutions appeal to me) and two, I don't think I'll need it. If the front has the same compression as the rear, I need 16" of clearance. The shock I got for the front (929543) is 17.32" fully compressed. I think I gained about 1.5" to 2" going up (would need to measure to be exact), and lost an inch from the spacer at the bottom. That puts me at 17.32" minus .5" to 1", which should be right around the 16" minimum.
If I can fully stuff the tire to the point where I am over compressing the shock, I'll install some axle bump stops and space them down as needed. I really shouldn't need to go far at all, maybe 1/2" to 1".
As far as the way it drives...well...lets just say "odd". The rear wanted to roll and the front didn't, which caused some interesting body roll. It's definitely much stiffer than the OME's, so you do loose some of the softer/cushy ride. I could "feel" the road much more, and I think that handling will be improved once I get the rear shocks done. Right now it's a bit squirrelly as the rear wants to roll and the front doesn't, which causes some odd feeling (not dangerous or not drivable by any means, just feels odd).
The ride isn't harsh by any means, but you do feel a lot more as far as bumps/etc goes. I can't wait to get the rears in, then go and see how well it flexes.
No pictures yet as it's dark outside, and probably none before I go to work. (Yeah, it's cruel of me to post something like this and tease you without pics.)
After a lot of different plans and ideas on how to do the front shocks (I'm not OCD, Nay! I'm not!), I ended up doing something really simple.
For the bottom mounts I simply welded on a stud to eye adapter. Similar to this one:

(Though not that one, as Summit is silly overpriced. I think I paid like $5 a pop for mine.)
For the top I found some box steel the same dimensions. Cut off about a 2" long section, drilled a hole through the side, cut a square hole on the top of the existing shock mount, then welded it in. Super easy, looks great, and gave me about two or even three inches more of clearance. Remember, the stock setup has a bushing that spaces down the shock body by about 1/2 of an inch or so, so you gain that plus however high the new mount is.
I could have done something more complex and gone even higher, but didn't for two main reasons. One, it's more complex (simple solutions appeal to me) and two, I don't think I'll need it. If the front has the same compression as the rear, I need 16" of clearance. The shock I got for the front (929543) is 17.32" fully compressed. I think I gained about 1.5" to 2" going up (would need to measure to be exact), and lost an inch from the spacer at the bottom. That puts me at 17.32" minus .5" to 1", which should be right around the 16" minimum.
If I can fully stuff the tire to the point where I am over compressing the shock, I'll install some axle bump stops and space them down as needed. I really shouldn't need to go far at all, maybe 1/2" to 1".
As far as the way it drives...well...lets just say "odd". The rear wanted to roll and the front didn't, which caused some interesting body roll. It's definitely much stiffer than the OME's, so you do loose some of the softer/cushy ride. I could "feel" the road much more, and I think that handling will be improved once I get the rear shocks done. Right now it's a bit squirrelly as the rear wants to roll and the front doesn't, which causes some odd feeling (not dangerous or not drivable by any means, just feels odd).
The ride isn't harsh by any means, but you do feel a lot more as far as bumps/etc goes. I can't wait to get the rears in, then go and see how well it flexes.

Last edited: