Pro Comp ES9000 Shock Information and Specs (1 Viewer)

[Walking Eagle]

Well now, I did say you should measure your compression to make sure that they would fit. They shouldn't be a problem given that they are under 15", and you can't fully compress the front end anyway with the stock setup.

Sure you can - just not articulating, but at 30mph, it can be done....

Glad to hear you're happy with the ES9000's, I'm thinking about getting a set in 14" travel to replace some damaged 9000XL's, cause the price is 2 for 1, and I liked the ones I had on my 40, I just HAD to have the latest greatest XL when they came out....

 

[Kaoscruizer]

Ok .. Ok .. so I ad libbed a bit of it!

YES .. if you are concerned, by all means measure your compression as Ebag is not responsible for the outcome! Do your homework!

Disclaimer added ..

 

[Ebag333]

Sure you can - just not articulating, but at 30mph, it can be done....

And once you land on the other side of the sand dune, be sure to check your axle to make sure it's still straight.

Glad to hear you're happy with the ES9000's, I'm thinking about getting a set in 14" travel to replace some damaged 9000XL's, cause the price is 2 for 1, and I liked the ones I had on my 40, I just HAD to have the latest greatest XL when they came out....

Unless you have a body lift you most likely won't be able to fit the 14" travel shocks in the rear, unless you drop your bump stops down to prevent over compression. Then all you're doing is trading up travel for down travel. 1" body lift is pretty much the minimum, I just barely clear the (raised) shock mounts. 2" Would give you plenty of room.

I'm estimating (based on some quick and dirty rough math) that I have about 6" up and 8" down, so trading up travel for down travel really isn't ideal.

I was a bit concerned about fitting 14" travel shocks in the front due to requiring two adapaters (meaning you lose about an inch on the lower mount), which is why I "only" went with 12.5" travel shocks for the front. The PS is no problem, but the master cylinder on the DS will limit you. I guess you could do 12.5" on the DS and 14" on the PS....

Ok .. Ok .. so I ad libbed a bit of it!

YES .. if you are concerned, by all means measure your compression as Ebag is not responsible for the outcome! Do your homework!

Disclaimer added ..

That's right! If you break your junk it's not my fault! ;p

Every truck and setup is slightly different, so it would be a major shame if someone took something I said as gospel, only to find out that their particular setup was a bit different and allowed that extra half inch of compression.....

 

[Walking Eagle]

Unless you have a body lift you most likely won't be able to fit the 14" travel shocks in the rear, unless you drop your bump stops down to prevent over compression. Then all you're doing is trading up travel for down travel. 1" body lift is pretty much the minimum, I just barely clear the (raised) shock mounts. 2" Would give you plenty of room.

I'm estimating (based on some quick and dirty rough math) that I have about 6" up and 8" down, so trading up travel for down travel really isn't ideal.

I was a bit concerned about fitting 14" travel shocks in the front due to requiring two adapaters (meaning you lose about an inch on the lower mount), which is why I "only" went with 12.5" travel shocks for the front. The PS is no problem, but the master cylinder on the DS will limit you. I guess you could do 12.5" on the DS and 14" on the PS....

Humm... you mean I might need something like this to get 14" shocks in?

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/162864-extended-shock-towers-14-rancho-9000xls.html

I just had a bolt on one of my front 14"'ers come loose and the shock body got smooshed by the tie rod in February, so I'm already set up for 14's, just can put in two ES's cheaper than one XL. Plus I think one of the rears is hashed too from going back and forth ahving the RCX and then not (that system sucks by the way)

 

[Ebag333]

Humm... you mean I might need something like this to get 14" shocks in?

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/162864-extended-shock-towers-14-rancho-9000xls.html

I just had a bolt on one of my front 14"'ers come loose and the shock body got smooshed by the tie rod in February, so I'm already set up for 14's, just can put in two ES's cheaper than one XL. Plus I think one of the rears is hashed too from going back and forth ahving the RCX and then not (that system sucks by the way)

Uh yeah...exactly like that!

How far up did you take the upper shock mounts? How did you do the bottom mount of the front shocks?

 

[Walking Eagle]

Uh yeah...exactly like that!

How far up did you take the upper shock mounts? How did you do the bottom mount of the front shocks?

As far as I could. - Pretty much figured how high I had to go to keep a little bit of shock exposed at full compression, and made them that high. The DS is the tougher one as it's about as close to the brake master as I would want it to be. The 1" body lift make it a little easier - I certainly couldn't have gone that high without it. Those shots are also back when I was running 2" bumstop spacers, which I no longer have, I switch over to spacing the whole spring mount 1.375" to level up the truck, so the bumpstops are only down that far. But still plenty of room for the shock. One nice thing with the XL's is they came with those shock bolts that stick out like that. Made life easier. I'd thought about using a superduty tower again like I did on my 40, but on my 40 I ended up extending that anyway and it just looked awfully tough to get the shock towers off without messing up the spring towers.


Just a normal shock eye to pin adapter. Double nut them if you use them, or nylock - that's what came loose on mine and caused the shock damage.

I don't like the rears. The 2.5" body on the XL's hit that mount just a little bit. Next time I'm cutting out more and giving it more room to sway for and aft as the suspension swings.

Biggest problem with 14" in the back? Springs pop out!

 

[Ebag333]

Just a normal shock eye to pin adapter. Double nut them if you use them, or nylock - that's what came loose on mine and caused the shock damage.

You just bolted the shock eye to pin adapter to the lower mount? Is that bolt what came loose, or the actual bolt on the shock (to the adapter)?

Mine are welded in place, so no worries there. So far everything still seems nice and tight.

I don't like the rears. The 2.5" body on the XL's hit that mount just a little bit. Next time I'm cutting out more and giving it more room to sway for and aft as the suspension swings.

Yeah, that might be an issue with mine. Haven't flexed it yet (need to extend the brake line still) to see.

Biggest problem with 14" in the back? Springs pop out!

Yup. Let me know how you address that.

 

[Walking Eagle]

You just bolted the shock eye to pin adapter to the lower mount? Is that bolt what came loose, or the actual bolt on the shock (to the adapter)?.

it was A.

Yeah, that might be an issue with mine. Haven't flexed it yet (need to extend the brake line still) to see.



Yup. Let me know how you address that.

When you flex it with longer shocks than most people are running you'll stretch the not only the brake line, but the abs line, and the parking brake cable. None of these are good things. Simple solution

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/209700-rear-lines-drop-bracket.html

as far as the springs popping out, I've only had it happen in the rear, never the front. Last year at the jamboree they popped out twice, I got fed up, and grabbed what I could to tie them to the axle - it's ok if they pop out on top as they will just slide back up the cone and re-seat when you flex back. When I say tie, I mean tie - I used a 6-8" length of strap, and tied it through the center of the spring perch on the axle and the spring. One of them finally broke a couple months ago, so it was a pretty good temporary fix. The fronts I have a hose clamp holding the bottoms on. I tried doing that to the rears, but I had trouble feeding it through with the springs on, probably could do it if I got the spring off, ran it through the perch first, then put the spring back on, but haven't had time to mess with it. Otherwise I might just run some stainless cable I have through it. It just has to hold well enough to force it to unseat at the top rather than the bottom.

Funny - 5 years ago VERY few were going beyond J's and L's......

 

[Ebag333]

When you flex it with longer shocks than most people are running you'll stretch the not only the brake line, but the abs line, and the parking brake cable. None of these are good things. Simple solution

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/209700-rear-lines-drop-bracket.html

Very nice. I will most likely do something similar.

as far as the springs popping out, I've only had it happen in the rear, never the front. Last year at the jamboree they popped out twice, I got fed up, and grabbed what I could to tie them to the axle - it's ok if they pop out on top as they will just slide back up the cone and re-seat when you flex back. When I say tie, I mean tie - I used a 6-8" length of strap, and tied it through the center of the spring perch on the axle and the spring. One of them finally broke a couple months ago, so it was a pretty good temporary fix. The fronts I have a hose clamp holding the bottoms on. I tried doing that to the rears, but I had trouble feeding it through with the springs on, probably could do it if I got the spring off, ran it through the perch first, then put the spring back on, but haven't had time to mess with it. Otherwise I might just run some stainless cable I have through it. It just has to hold well enough to force it to unseat at the top rather than the bottom.

Hmm, I'm gonna have to take a look at what I got again and plan something out. Sounds like your hose clamps are doing the trick, I might do something similar.

Funny - 5 years ago VERY few were going beyond J's and L's......

I'm not planning on going any taller, if I do anything it'd be a 2" body lift instead of a 1", but I doubt I'll go with a taller spring or spacers.

But I do like having the extra flex.

 

[Walking Eagle]

I'm not planning on going any taller, if I do anything it'd be a 2" body lift instead of a 1", but I doubt I'll go with a taller spring or spacers.

But I do like having the extra flex.

I'm just saying 5 years ago, very few were using anything other than L shocks, and were being limited by that.

 

[little_joe]

I have the Pro Comp 926510 & 925530 en route to replace the stock-height Bilstein's on my cut-down FOR Gen II springs. I'll post up results, I'm taking the 80 wheeling Black Friday. Not too shabby - $170 for 4 + boots. Thanks again Ebag!

 

[Ebag333]

I have the Pro Comp 926510 & 925530 en route to replace the stock-height Bilstein's on my cut-down FOR Gen II springs. I'll post up results, I'm taking the 80 wheeling Black Friday. Not too shabby - $170 for 4 + boots. Thanks again Ebag!

You ordered the covers for them? I've heard mixed things about them. While they should help keep dirt, water, and mud off them, they will also trap it in them. I decided against it, but let me know how they work for you.

Did you also get the correct sized bushings for the rear shocks? (Not sure what size bushing those come with.)

Since you're only running 295/16R16 check to make sure you don't overcompress your shocks. The front should be fine, but you may find the 926510 a little long.

You could also install these:
Daystar KU09059 - Daystar EVS Bump Stops - Overview - SummitRacing.com

From what I've read they're a pain to install (don't even think about installing them with the shocks on the vehicle...), but they will work for keeping your shock from overcompressing if you're a bit on the long side.

 

[Walking Eagle]

You ordered the covers for them? I've heard mixed things about them. While they should help keep dirt, water, and mud off them, they will also trap it in them. I decided against it, but let me know how they work for you.

And they keep your shaft from getting dinged by rocks. But like you said, are the advantages worth the drawbacks - it's taste great or less filling, you're not going to get truth - only opinion.

 

[little_joe]

You ordered the covers for them? I've heard mixed things about them. While they should help keep dirt, water, and mud off them, they will also trap it in them. I decided against it, but let me know how they work for you.

W/o starting a religious war, yes I did order boots and intend to use them. A long time ago I started cutting the boots so they drape, if anything does get in it comes right out - I do this mostly just to protect the shaft.

Did you also get the correct sized bushings for the rear shocks? (Not sure what size bushing those come with.)

I did not. Kinda figured between the ones I have now, others tossed into my tool bag, and the auto parts store I should be able to cobble something together. If the local 4WPW has the bushings in stock I may just get them anyway.

Since you're only running 295/16R16 check to make sure you don't overcompress your shocks. The front should be fine, but you may find the 926510 a little long.

I plan to do this when wheeling Black Friday - before doing anything to really cycle the suspension, I'll play a bit and see how it's all looking and take it from there....... Putting some bushings on the shock shaft is also an option for a quick ghetto-redneck fix.

 

[Ebag333]

I plan to do this when wheeling Black Friday - before doing anything to really cycle the suspension, I'll play a bit and see how it's all looking and take it from there....... Putting some bushings on the shock shaft is also an option for a quick ghetto-redneck fix.

Perfect. Make sure you take lots of pics!

 

[Nay]

That the OME shocks are incredibly soft and were taking little to none of the weight of the vehicle?

Your spring dampeners (shocks) aren't supposed to take the weight of the vehicle. They are supposed to dampen spring motion.

Gaining ride height due to shock compression valving means your springs are not properly supporting vehicle load and the suspension design is over biased to shock valving to compensate.

Might be worth investing in some good springs at some point

 

[Nay]

You ordered the covers for them? I've heard mixed things about them. While they should help keep dirt, water, and mud off them, they will also trap it in them. I decided against it, but let me know how they work for you.

Shock boots are for FJ Cruisers. Kind of like blowing up your rear diff on an expedition run, or tearing your frame winching. It's just kinda soft in a marshmellow sort of way.

These things matter for mods that have no function. Your shocks are half dead at 10K miles and essentially toast at 20K, worrying about dinging your shaft should be reserved for dating large women.

 

[Walking Eagle]

Shock boots are for FJ Cruisers. Kind of like blowing up your rear diff on an expedition run, or tearing your frame winching. It's just kinda soft in a marshmellow sort of way.

These things matter for mods that have no function. Your shocks are half dead at 10K miles and essentially toast at 20K, worrying about dinging your shaft should be reserved for dating large women.

Thanks Nay - that added so much to the conversation....

 

[Ebag333]

Your spring dampeners (shocks) aren't supposed to take the weight of the vehicle. They are supposed to dampen spring motion.

Gaining ride height due to shock compression valving means your springs are not properly supporting vehicle load and the suspension design is over biased to shock valving to compensate.

Might be worth investing in some good springs at some point

While ride height is not the primary purpose of shocks, the shocks you choose do effect the ride height. Even with OME's and their bypass valve, the increased ride height (albeit very slightly) over no shocks.

If shocks are not supposed to take the weight of the vehicle, they'd be designed the exact same way as steering dampeners. Steering dampeners dampen movement, but have no preference for being open or closed. Shocks want to be fully extended, some more than others.

How about air shocks? Those aren't supposed to affect ride height?


If your statement that shocks are not supposed to affect ride height holds true, uninstall the shocks you have and measure ride height. Guarantee you that the amount of lift you have drops (though maybe only slightly). Guess you'd better start looking for some 14" travel steering stabilizers.

Besides, we're talking about 1/2" here. I wouldn't have even noticed if I didn't measure it. This is not a major amount of extra lift here, and it will go away when I armor up my truck.


Your homework for the week is to research shock preload, and how it affects the vehicle.

 

[Ebag333]

So I e-mailed Pro Comp today and got the following info. They responded to my e-mail in less than an hour! (Sent at 11:37, responded by 12:12!)

These are the recommended shocks by Pro Comp. The first would be a set for a stock height vehicle, the second would be a set for a J spring(ish) lifted vehicle with 315's (these might be slightly long and need the bump stops spaced down a bit, it's your job to check that! ). All of these should be a straight bolt in option.

Model		Body	Min	Max	Range		Upper	Lower	Gas

924530		2.36	14.56	24.50	10.12		Stud	Stud	Yes
924514		2.36	14.52	24.70	10.18		Stud	Eye	Yes

927530		2.00	16.27	27.76	11.49		Stud	Stud	Yes
927514		2.00	16.27	27.76	11.49		Stud	Eye	Yes