Preventive Maintenance - Valley Plate (1 Viewer)

[rav8]

So I mentioned here that I had been losing coolant at a very slow rate. Because of my mileage (134K) and frequency to tow our camper long distances, I wanted to make sure this wouldn't impact future travel if preventable. Utilizing research from @jmanscotch and @agentmm, I devised a plan to complete the task without breaking anything. That failed.

After everything you see here reconnected I experienced a transfer tube leak (at valley plate). I disassembled enough to where I could create a rough coolant loop to test against this failure before reassembly.

Circled is where I connected the coolant hose to throttle body directly to EGR manifold temporarily to isolate fluid loss. The first time I did this was a complete failure with a pinched packing. Coolant really does pour out as fast as you put in.

Back to the drawing board, I used Permatex O-Ring Lubricant instead of soapy water to lubricate the transfer tube packings. Much better result. No leaks. Put everything back together and tested on a decent run. Just to note, If you have issues with disconnecting the fuel connectors, something like this can come in handy:

Second time was easier.

 

[jmanscotch]

Second time is indeed easier…unfortunately.

 

[r2m]

Did I miss something about your "preventative maintenance"?
Was there something that you suggest to replace or check regularly?

 

[Acrad]

I keep an eye on the cold level of my coolant recovery tank bottle

 

[r2m]

I keep an eye on the cold level of my coolant recovery tank bottle

Yup, and an eye-out for any residue on top of the engine on the driveway.

 

[ZIOI]

It's been a few months, but I'm still feeling pain of the same thing-- doing the cover plate-- TWICE because the crossover tube leaked upon first reassembly.

I ended up ordering a new crossover tube because Toyota has superceded the design. The design differences are minor, but they are real.

It seemed easier to assemble the 2nd time. I used Hylomar Red for my coverplate as well as a dressing on the seals.

Revised part is on the right (IIRC it was slightly shorter as well as had minor changes to other dimensions like tube ID and gland geometry. I suspect these changes improve the resistance of the o-ring to rolling up from the gland.

 

[ZIOI]

Yup, and an eye-out for any residue on top of the engine on the driveway.

I think I still have VERY slow coolant leak but I'm just now getting to where I need heat, so it's possibly just taking forever to de-aerate to the rear heater core. I can't find any coolant residue anywhere and evidence of external leakage.

Hopefully it's not an HG seep. If it's manageable with a top off periodically, I'm ok with that. Especially contrasted against diving into the valley for the 3rd time.

 

[WTITW]

You guys are making me glad I paid a wrench for hire on this one.

 

[xychromosome]

You guys are making me glad I paid a wrench for hire on this one.

+1

 

[rav8]

Did I miss something about your "preventative maintenance"?
Was there something that you suggest to replace or check regularly?

At about 135K now, I felt like I was in the range for this to become a problem. I travel across country often and it wasn't something I wanted to tackle unexpectedly with winter on the way.
I had some coolant loss which I could not isolate, even with a borescope. Upon disassembly, I found that the FIPG had smooth spots that never really adhered to both surfaces. Most of the FIPG was bonded firmly to the plate but in some spots I could easily seperate. I think I was losing just enough to measure (1 quart/6-8 mo.) but not enough to have the pink crud accumulate near the area.
I'm glad I went through with it. Doing it again would probably take 4-6 hours.

 

[rav8]

I keep an eye on the cold level of my coolant recovery tank bottle

THAT over the past two years was my only indicator of loss. I wasn't losing enough to experience the pink formations that some here had. Hence the Preventive terminology in the post. Not typical PM but not really an exaggeration either in this milage range.

 

[rav8]

You guys are making me glad I paid a wrench for hire on this one.

I think the last time I paid a technician to do any work on my vehicles outside of tire mounting or a wheel alignment was 1997.
I may have witnessed the wrong black Ford Mustang get an oil change (was in for a flat on the passenger rear) and after servicing, was told that there was oil in the coolant and that a head gasket was likely the culprit. Upon asking to see the (wife's) car, I asked them to pull the dipstick which was bone dry. I asked them to show me the oil cap and they pointed to the coolant reservior. Yup. The ensuing conversation with management and their master tech could be considered hilarious if it wasn't so inconvenient for all involved.
My point is (even when pagers were rare in a decent auto shop) that you'd be lucky to find 1 or 2 cogent techs in a garage where the other 6 to 8 'mechanics' paid no attention to detail.
I factored the estimated time spent (~10hrs) and that it was a sealant job (no maintenance or replacement of dynamic components) would keep cost down. I spent a very little (<$160) in parts and my labor through completion was still less half the price of what any nearby shop would have charged. I know where that saved money is going soon
If you've ever gone through the knock sensor harness fix on a 1GR-FE 4Runner, this is a piece of cake and very similar in disassembly/consumable parts cost. Just less Sawzall action.

 

[r2m]

I think the last time I paid a technician to do any work on my vehicles outside of tire mounting or a wheel alignment was 1997.
I may have witnessed the wrong black Ford Mustang get an oil change (was in for a flat on the passenger rear) and after servicing, was told that there was oil in the coolant and that a head gasket was likely the culprit. Upon asking to see the (wife's) car, I asked them to pull the dipstick which was bone dry. I asked them to show me the oil cap and they pointed to the coolant reservior. Yup. The ensuing conversation with management and their master tech could be considered hilarious if it wasn't so inconvenient for all involved.
My point is (even when pagers were rare in a decent auto shop) that you'd be lucky to find 1 or 2 cogent techs in a garage where the other 6 to 8 'mechanics' paid no attention to detail.
I factored the estimated time spent (~10hrs) and that it was a sealant job (no maintenance or replacement of dynamic components) would keep cost down. I spent a very little (<$160) in parts and my labor through completion was still less half the price of what any nearby shop would have charged. I know where that saved money is going soon
If you've ever gone through the knock sensor harness fix on a 1GR-FE 4Runner, this is a piece of cake and very similar in disassembly/consumable parts cost. Just less Sawzall action.

Do you also factor in the cost of bandages for cut, burns, busted and bruised knuckles, broken/ruined (whatever), etc.?

 

[rav8]

Do you also factor in the cost of bandages for for cut, burns, busted and bruised knuckles, broken/ruined (whatever), etc.?

Yep. My hand-modeling career never gained any traction when I was younger and after over a decade rigging GE T-64's, I was left with enough slices that there was no chance of a second shot.

Broken was the passenger side wire harness clip that others have mentioned.

Ruined was another scotch-brite pad, some rags and the first set of transfer tube o-rings.

No coolant was wasted because I performed leak and pressure checks with water first. My old shop jeans might be ready to toss out though.

 

[r2m]

Yep. My hand-modeling career never gained any traction when I was younger and after over a decade rigging GE T-64's, I was left with enough slices that there was no chance of a second shot.

Broken was the passenger side wire harness clip that others have mentioned.

Ruined was another scotch-brite pad, some rags and the first set of transfer tube o-rings.

No coolant was wasted because I performed leak and pressure checks with water first. My old shop jeans might be ready to toss out though.

Where I live, our driveway is really nice paved brick, you can probably see it in some of the photos of my rig in the driveway. And since the driveway is also on an incline, I really can't do anything that has to do with draining anything. Even with a drop cloth, if anything spills, it's right down the driveway. And my garage is a large one car filled with surf equipment, ski's, bikes, and of course my work bench and tools. So I can't work in there either.
I admit, I'm very jealous of all you folks that have a piece of land larger than a postage stamp!! (Do you hear me Clint!!)

 

[rav8]

Where I live, our driveway is really nice paved brick, you can probably see it in some of the photos of my rig in the driveway. And since the driveway is also on an incline, I really can't do anything that has to do with draining anything. Even with a drop cloth, if anything spills, it's right down the driveway. And my garage is a large one car filled with surf equipment, ski's, bikes, and of course my work bench and tools. So I can't work in there either.
I admit, I'm very jealous of all you folks that have a piece of land larger than a postage stamp!! (Do you hear me Clint!!)

You do have a nice driveway. I wouldn't do this kind of work over it either.

 

[rav8]

It's been a few months, but I'm still feeling pain of the same thing-- doing the cover plate-- TWICE because the crossover tube leaked upon first reassembly.

I ended up ordering a new crossover tube because Toyota has superceded the design. The design differences are minor, but they are real.

It seemed easier to assemble the 2nd time. I used Hylomar Red for my coverplate as well as a dressing on the seals.

View attachment 3770402
View attachment 3770403


Revised part is on the right (IIRC it was slightly shorter as well as had minor changes to other dimensions like tube ID and gland geometry. I suspect these changes improve the resistance of the o-ring to rolling up from the gland.

That is interesting that they changed the design of this part. It would be difficult to prove as a solution without going back to that place and repeating.
The fact that I had success after application of rated silicone treatment to the new o-rings gives me confidence. If I have to do this again in another 150k, I may give the new part a shot.

 

[iT4RZ4N]

Do you have the new part number by any chance?

 

[ZIOI]

Do you have the new part number by any chance?

I think the "replaced by" number is the newer PN.

 

[ZIOI]

I think I still have VERY slow coolant leak but I'm just now getting to where I need heat, so it's possibly just taking forever to de-aerate to the rear heater core. I can't find any coolant residue anywhere and evidence of external leakage.

Hopefully it's not an HG seep. If it's manageable with a top off periodically, I'm ok with that. Especially contrasted against diving into the valley for the 3rd time.

Well I just did 20 hours round trip in the GX taking the fam for Thanksgiving and if I'm still losing coolant, it's such a slow rate that it's 1) very hard to detect, and 2) easily managed.

If it's 1/2" level change in the overflow in a month, I can live with that in perpetuity. But I think it might actually not be leaking. I'll need to monitor it throughout the winter.