Took my sticky starter out for inspection, cleaned the contacts. Time to put it back in.
Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on? (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter Stumpalama
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End result? Sanded the contacts and it seems to crank faster. Time will tell if I have the no-start condition again...
Well I was tired of the yellowing headlamps so I used one of the DIY Kits from Meguiar's and I am happy with the results so far. I know its not as good as a pro could do but not bad for an hour or so of work.
Driver Before Driver After
Pass Before Pass After
Driver Before Driver After
Pass Before Pass After
An update on my 40 project. Here in New Mexico, there are still plenty of mom and pop shops that do good work for reasonable prices, but they take forever and don’t have the same sense of customer service as back in NOVA.
So, four months ago I trailered my rolling chassis to a shop in Albuquerque to get the frame measured, squared, and straightened and I just got it back. The truck leaned a lot to DS. They put it on their frame machine and determined the rear section of the frame had a twist in it and the DS body mounts were bent down. I gave them a copy of the factory frame measurements from the shop manual and they pulled it back into shape. Total cost for 10hrs of labor came to $850.
I found a company in Las Cruces that will media blast the frame for $300, so I’m going to do that and then prime/paint the frame myself.
In the mean time, got a group of guys here and we all go riding in the desert on the weekends. I got a 2021 Yamaha YZ250X two stroke that’s awesome for shredding in the desert.
So, four months ago I trailered my rolling chassis to a shop in Albuquerque to get the frame measured, squared, and straightened and I just got it back. The truck leaned a lot to DS. They put it on their frame machine and determined the rear section of the frame had a twist in it and the DS body mounts were bent down. I gave them a copy of the factory frame measurements from the shop manual and they pulled it back into shape. Total cost for 10hrs of labor came to $850.
I found a company in Las Cruces that will media blast the frame for $300, so I’m going to do that and then prime/paint the frame myself.
In the mean time, got a group of guys here and we all go riding in the desert on the weekends. I got a 2021 Yamaha YZ250X two stroke that’s awesome for shredding in the desert.
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I’m starting to think about what to paint my frame with. I’m planning for some mods in the future like rock sliders and maybe a six point roll bar connected to the frame so powdercoat is out because I want repairability.
The frame will be media blasted down to bare metal and I’ll probably go with an epoxy primer and satin chassis black top coat sprayed on with a spray gun. The current plan is to put it on saw horses in the back yard, or hang it from my engine hoist, prime/paint it, and let it cure in the New Mexico sun for a few days before reassembly.
Any suggestions on a decent brand of primer and paint? Rustoleum, Eastwood, PPG? Just want something reasonably durable and cost effective.
The frame will be media blasted down to bare metal and I’ll probably go with an epoxy primer and satin chassis black top coat sprayed on with a spray gun. The current plan is to put it on saw horses in the back yard, or hang it from my engine hoist, prime/paint it, and let it cure in the New Mexico sun for a few days before reassembly.
Any suggestions on a decent brand of primer and paint? Rustoleum, Eastwood, PPG? Just want something reasonably durable and cost effective.
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CondeCruiser
SILVER Star
I think I'm going to go with this. Ive been reading up on it and it sounds good. Not just the monocoat , but the DTM paint also.
MonoCoat 1K Direct to Rust - Black
MonoCoat 1K is a Direct to Rust Urethane. It's a moisture-curing coating is a type of coating that cures due to the presence of moisture in the atmosphere. This coating forms a protective coating film by reacting chemically with the moisture in the air. It is designed to paint directly over...
tamcopaint.com
I think I'm going to go with this. Ive been reading up on it and it sounds good. Not just the monocoat , but the DTM paint also.
MonoCoat 1K Direct to Rust - Black
MonoCoat 1K is a Direct to Rust Urethane. It's a moisture-curing coating is a type of coating that cures due to the presence of moisture in the atmosphere. This coating forms a protective coating film by reacting chemically with the moisture in the air. It is designed to paint directly over...
The big difference between a rattle can/can of paint and the paint sprayed in an actual shop is mixing an activator that makes the paint more durable in the long term. From what little I know about paint, single stage paint is the same for the most part so spending a ton more is not worth it in unless thats for a multistage with an activator.
Last weekend, the truck leaked all the AHC fluid after developing a leak in a fitting near the rear passenger side. After doing some research on saving the AHC or not, I decided to go with a conventional LC setup and get rid of the AHC. Primary reasoning to go this route was to avoid having another such failure while on the 12K mile road trip planned for next year(more on that later). I bought the LC springs and TBs from FBM. Shocks were ordered from McGeorge along with all the required hardware. I went with Toyota OEM shocks for the LC. Thankful to both the sellers for sending the parts quickly.
Met with a friend at his garage this morning to work on this. I was expecting to see some carnage from rusted parts, but was hopeful to save the AHC components as much as I could. Within the first few minutes, we both were conclusive that the rear AHC componenents were not worth saving - Shocks, AHC lines, nuts & bolts were rusted pretty bad. After that it was an easy decision on what tools were needed, starting with a Sawzall and graduating to a plasma cutter.
The plasma cutter made things go bye bye quickly
The rear end of the torsion bars were stuck(more like rust welded) into the adjusters and were not coming out after going at them with a hammer and and air hammer. So, we cut the ends off the TBs, cut a hole on the end caps and them hammered the ends out of the adjusters. LX TBs were replaced with LC TBs.
After 6 hours, the LX is back on its feet with a renewed suspension setup. Currently sitting at almost the same height as before. But, there is still some more adjustment remaining to lift the LX some more. Current measurements from the center of the axle to the bottom of the fender is 19" on the front and 20.5" in the rear. I do have about 150-200lbs of stuff in the trunk area with the drawer system filled.
Met with a friend at his garage this morning to work on this. I was expecting to see some carnage from rusted parts, but was hopeful to save the AHC components as much as I could. Within the first few minutes, we both were conclusive that the rear AHC componenents were not worth saving - Shocks, AHC lines, nuts & bolts were rusted pretty bad. After that it was an easy decision on what tools were needed, starting with a Sawzall and graduating to a plasma cutter.
The plasma cutter made things go bye bye quickly
The rear end of the torsion bars were stuck(more like rust welded) into the adjusters and were not coming out after going at them with a hammer and and air hammer. So, we cut the ends off the TBs, cut a hole on the end caps and them hammered the ends out of the adjusters. LX TBs were replaced with LC TBs.
After 6 hours, the LX is back on its feet with a renewed suspension setup. Currently sitting at almost the same height as before. But, there is still some more adjustment remaining to lift the LX some more. Current measurements from the center of the axle to the bottom of the fender is 19" on the front and 20.5" in the rear. I do have about 150-200lbs of stuff in the trunk area with the drawer system filled.
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iptman
SILVER Star
Total score on CL. All 3 for $45 shipped.
iptman
SILVER Star
Yeah I figure at worst I can use it for the pictures. The FSM is in ridiculously good shape for a 1984 printing.
If it is an older manual then it will have the better wiring layout in the back. The rest is so so. I actually keep one at the shop for when I work on 40's!
Installed my new City Racer dual diaphragm brake booster and Aisin brake and clutch master cylinders. Sooo nice to replace the old giant booster and free up some real estate in the engine bay. Will run all new NiCopp lines. Much easier to do with the engine out and the body off the frame lol.
Love the new booster…..my only complaint are the chrome 13mm flange nuts that come with it. IMO, nothing is more annoying than working on a Japanese vehicle and finding 11mm, 13mm, or worse 1/2in nuts and bolts. I replaced the 13mm flange nuts with gold cadmium 12mm nuts from Overland Metric.
Also, unwrapped the wiring harness to inspect/repair any poor electrical connections done by the PO. So far it looks pretty good. Getting all new grommets for the firewall too.
Love the new booster…..my only complaint are the chrome 13mm flange nuts that come with it. IMO, nothing is more annoying than working on a Japanese vehicle and finding 11mm, 13mm, or worse 1/2in nuts and bolts. I replaced the 13mm flange nuts with gold cadmium 12mm nuts from Overland Metric.
Also, unwrapped the wiring harness to inspect/repair any poor electrical connections done by the PO. So far it looks pretty good. Getting all new grommets for the firewall too.
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iptman
SILVER Star
Looks like a 1987 printing. This alone is worth keeping the Haynes manual around, emissions diagram for my California spec 77. SOR sells the 77 model year emissions book for $100 and this is really the only thing I needed out of it. Now to double check all this spaghetti mess on my truck!
Replaced the headlamps with the eagle eyes and painted the grill and emblems graphite.
![20210716_183848[1].jpg](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/20210716_183848-1-jpg.2743086/ "20210716_183848[1].jpg")
![20210716_183854[1].jpg](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/20210716_183854-1-jpg.2743087/ "20210716_183854[1].jpg")
![20210716_193710[1].jpg](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/20210716_193710-1-jpg.2743088/ "20210716_193710[1].jpg")
![20210716_135410[1].jpg](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/20210716_135410-1-jpg.2743089/ "20210716_135410[1].jpg")
![20210717_190050[1].jpg](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/20210717_190050-1-jpg.2743090/ "20210717_190050[1].jpg")
Also bought new headlamp trims, since these are already broken. Waiting for snail-mail to deliver.
And the headlamps seals.
![20210717_132808[1].jpg](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/20210717_132808-1-jpg.2743091/ "20210717_132808[1].jpg")
![20210726_173034[1].jpg](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/20210726_173034-1-jpg.2743093/ "20210726_173034[1].jpg")
And the headlamps seals.
Lastly... Went camping this weekend.
![20210723_114311[1].jpg](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/20210723_114311-1-jpg.2743097/ "20210723_114311[1].jpg")
![20210723_183355[1].jpg](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/20210723_183355-1-jpg.2743100/ "20210723_183355[1].jpg")
Not to mention my epic fail of vinyl wrap the hood. 
![20210722_170156[1].jpg](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/20210722_170156-1-jpg.2743106/ "20210722_170156[1].jpg")
BTW... If anyone has any knowledge on how to do this... I'll get more paper.
afgman786
SILVER Star
Did you wrap it or just lay some wrapping paper on top? Lmao!
Guessing you didn't use a heat gun, squeegee, and the alcohol/water spray to make it smooth
