Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on? (7 Viewers)

[MOB324]

And maybe one of those tests that you connect to the radiator filler neck to check for hydrocarbons in the antifreeze?

I did one of the exhaust gas tests with the blue liquid on the radiator filler neck and it came back negative.

Compression numbers came back as…
1 - 160
2 - 120 (first test) - 140 (second test)
3 - 165
4 - 152
5 - 150
6 - 140

Not sure what to make of the issue with cylinder 2

 

[OTRAMM]

Compression tests on their own really don't tell you much. Cylinder leak down test will give much more information. You likely won't catch a leaking head gasket on a compression test unless it's a huge leak, which would be obvious by the coolant coming out the tail pipe. Combining a cylinder leak down test and a cooling system burp funnel will let you check each cylinder for cylinder pressure entering the cooling system while the engine is cold. Small head gasket leaks are usually much easier to catch cold. Another test is to pressurize the cooling system with the engine cold and then use a borescope to look for coolant in the cylinder. What symptoms are you having that you're looking for a head gasket issue? While the 1fz's do pop gaskets, it's not any where near as often as the internet makes it seem.

 

[kevin in okinawa]

printing out FSM pages, watching videos (thanks @OTRAMM and @orangefj45, you guys have the best ones out there), and collecting tools and parts in order to install the 3.3:1 low range and overdrive reduction gears into the transfer case. I will start disassembly next weekend.

I want to crawl over everything at Fall Crawl.

 

[matzell]

printing out FSM pages, watching videos (thanks @OTRAMM and @orangefj45, you guys have the best ones out there), and collecting tools and parts in order to install the 3.3:1 low range and overdrive reduction gears into the transfer case. I will start disassembly next weekend.

I want to crawl over everything at Fall Crawl.

I am doing this, this weekend, except with 4:1 gears.

 

[CrabCake]

Got rolling on a few projects this past weekend. While waiting for my front diff to be built..first up, I've been looking for a solution to mount my RTT back onto my trailer, but with a much lower profile than the couple hundred pound SuperStrut cage that was on there. The trick here is that I found a roll up toneau cover that fits very well, and I need the mounts for the cross bars to clear the cover too. I was going to fabricate something out of all of the strut material that I took apart, but kept the door open to a reasonably priced over the counter solution. I contemplated for a a while and even bolted up a couple of mock up pieces, but decided to re-check for a good option to just buy and install. I finally found a kit on Amazon for under $200 that worked out perfectly...ordered Saturday afternoon, had by Sunday lunchtime in time to get it installed. Now I just need to go to my storage unit and grab the RTT for a test fit, but I don't expect any issues (used the manual for measurements).

 

[Svensk120]

Looks awesome @CrabCake and it will be easier to tow with it sitting so much lower!

It'll look great once you get everything on there ....and painted white to match the 80... and matching rims and tires...and Toyota across the rear tailgate!



Just saying

 

[CrabCake]

Next up was to tackle my rear quarter panel inside where my air compressor lives...I've been wanting to get into this for some time, and now with the decision to go with the ARB locker up front, I needed to clean up behind the plastic for the new components. I've had the rear QPM from Witts End in waiting for a while now (long story on waiting/getting that!), so it was time to get to work.

When I pulled the panel off to get started, I immediately noticed oil dripping down the wires and inside of the panel itself...coming out of the 10+ year old ARB single compressor...good thing that I already made the decision to upgrade to the new brushless twin that should be here in the next day or two. The P/O's shop that did the initial install way back when, long before the QPM was an option, they did a bit of creative wiring to keep everything "clean". Actually decent quality wires and connections for the most part, but time for a refresh! I'm re-using the Blue Sea fuse panel and I had already upgraded/replaced the main power feed last year, so that with a new ground and I'm good. Getting set up now with the fuse panel mounted, waiting for the compressor to see how I want to finish off the installation...

 

[CrabCake]

Looks awesome @CrabCake and it will be easier to tow with it sitting so much lower!

It'll look great once you get everything on there ....and painted white to match the 80... and matching rims and tires...and Toyota across the rear tailgate!



Just saying

Nice try...the camo helps to hide the grime! I do need to steal the axle/hubs off of @Boomstick 's trailer...he has the 80 rims to match!

I'm looking forward to the lower profile for sure....high enough not to have to crawl underneath, but too low of course for the annex, but I'm fine with that. I do plan on doing a "field installable" strut setup for my 270 awning...I do remember a lot of pine/leaf fall last year, and it definitely helped to keep the cooking area cleaned up.

 

[Svensk120]

Nice try...the camo helps to hide the grime! I do need to steal the axle/hubs off of @Boomstick 's trailer...he has the 80 rims to match!

That will get you one step closer!!

Remember it's a Land Cruiser... There are standards that have to be maintained...that isn't a Jeep towing it around!

Just playing it really does look great!

 

[1MOA]

Remember it's a Land Cruiser... There are standards that have to be maintained...that isn't a Jeep towing it around!

Just playing it really does look great!

That only applies to the 200 series and up crowd.

 

[Land Shark]

Got rolling on a few projects this past weekend. While waiting for my front diff to be built..first up, I've been looking for a solution to mount my RTT back onto my trailer, but with a much lower profile than the couple hundred pound SuperStrut cage that was on there. The trick here is that I found a roll up toneau cover that fits very well, and I need the mounts for the cross bars to clear the cover too. I was going to fabricate something out of all of the strut material that I took apart, but kept the door open to a reasonably priced over the counter solution. I contemplated for a a while and even bolted up a couple of mock up pieces, but decided to re-check for a good option to just buy and install. I finally found a kit on Amazon for under $200 that worked out perfectly...ordered Saturday afternoon, had by Sunday lunchtime in time to get it installed. Now I just need to go to my storage unit and grab the RTT for a test fit, but I don't expect any issues (used the manual for measurements).

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Looking good! Do the bottom of the supports run under the tonneau rails?

 

[CrabCake]

Looking good! Do the bottom of the supports run under the tonneau rails?

They do...I just trimmed the weatherstrip on the cover rails and the new brackets came with a thinner weatherstrip, so mostly water tight...not 100%, but I'm personally not too worried about that for my usage. I bolted on a piece of SuperStrut to each side to extend the ledge out a bit for more support. Good thing is I can use this to bolt up my support rails for the 270 awning too...

Amazon.com: Adjustable Truck Bed Rack Cross Bars,Compatible with Full-Size Trucks with Tonneau Covers|Length 71" : Automotive

Buy Adjustable Truck Bed Rack Cross Bars,Compatible with Full-Size Trucks with Tonneau Covers|Length 71": Cargo Racks - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

[Land Shark]

They do...I just trimmed the weatherstrip on the cover rails and the new brackets came with a thinner weatherstrip, so mostly water tight...not 100%, but I'm personally not too worried about that for my usage.

Amazon.com: Adjustable Truck Bed Rack Cross Bars,Compatible with Full-Size Trucks with Tonneau Covers|Length 71" : Automotive

Buy Adjustable Truck Bed Rack Cross Bars,Compatible with Full-Size Trucks with Tonneau Covers|Length 71": Cargo Racks - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

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Pretty sweet. Nice work man. Could always run a bead of sika flex down it if you wanted...

 

[TTViper]

We’ve been working on finding this dude a property in Colorado.

 

[CrabCake]

I had dinner with my friend from Salida last night, she said we can roll through there and hang out anytime...would be a perfect spot to get to for a caravan out your way!

 

[matzell]

I had dinner with my friend from Salida last night, she said we can roll through there and hang out anytime...would be a perfect spot to get to for a caravan out your way!

We stopped and filled up on the way out and stopped and ate there on the way home from Ouray this year. Nice little town.

 

[MOB324]

Compression tests on their own really don't tell you much. Cylinder leak down test will give much more information. You likely won't catch a leaking head gasket on a compression test unless it's a huge leak, which would be obvious by the coolant coming out the tail pipe. Combining a cylinder leak down test and a cooling system burp funnel will let you check each cylinder for cylinder pressure entering the cooling system while the engine is cold. Small head gasket leaks are usually much easier to catch cold. Another test is to pressurize the cooling system with the engine cold and then use a borescope to look for coolant in the cylinder. What symptoms are you having that you're looking for a head gasket issue? While the 1fz's do pop gaskets, it's not any where near as often as the internet makes it seem.

Back in April when I went to do my desmog, I pulled my valve cover for the first time since owning the truck and there was a lot of white goop underneath the cover. (I'll post some pictures tonight when I back in front of my cell phone). I cleaned up the cover, replaced the PCV which was toast, replaced the valve cover gasket, and oil filler cap. However, the oil on the dipstick has always looked good with no sign of milky oil and no white smoke out the tail pipe. To rule out oil cooler cross contamination, I bypassed it and ended up in the process replacing most of the rubber coolant lines and flushing the radiator which took me most of the summer. As such, the coolant level has been inconsistent but I think that mostly has to do with me running down various leaks while I replaced hoses. So I have been struggling to tell the difference between the cooling system burping itself and possibly burning coolant. That's why I did the compression test to rule out a head gasket problem - also the plugs did not look like they have been steamcleaned. FYI - I am in a '91 so I have the 3FE.

Edit: I also did the radiator gas test with the blue liquid twice and it came back negative both times.

 

[1MOA]

Back in April when I went to do my desmog, I pulled my valve cover for the first time since owning the truck and there was a lot of white goop underneath the cover. (I'll post some pictures tonight when I back in front of my cell phone). I cleaned up the cover, replaced the PCV which was toast, replaced the valve cover gasket, and oil filler cap. However, the oil on the dipstick has always looked good with no sign of milky oil and no white smoke out the tail pipe. To rule out oil cooler cross contamination, I bypassed it and ended up in the process replacing most of the rubber coolant lines and flushing the radiator which took me most of the summer. As such, the coolant level has been inconsistent but I think that mostly has to do with me running down various leaks while I replaced hoses. So I have been struggling to tell the difference between the cooling system burping itself and possibly burning coolant. That's why I did the compression test to rule out a head gasket problem - also the plugs did not look like they have been steamcleaned. FYI - I am in a '91 so I have the 3FE.

Edit: I also did the radiator gas test with the blue liquid twice and it came back negative both times.

Do you drive it for a lot of short trips and/or does it sit for extended periods?

 

[MOB324]

Do you drive it for a lot of short trips and/or does it sit for extended periods?

Both! Lol. I picked the truck up in poor shape in June 2024. I don't know much about it's previous history but I suspect it was sitting for a number of years. So I have spent much more time working on it than driving it. Most of the driving has been test driving repairs. Good news I am starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel and she is much more reliable to drive routinely now.

 

[TRDdrew]

Both! Lol. I picked the truck up in poor shape in June 2024. I don't know much about it's previous history but I suspect it was sitting for a number of years. So I have spent much more time working on it than driving it. Most of the driving has been test driving repairs. Good news I am starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel and she is much more reliable to drive routinely now.

Honestly could have just been condensation build of over the years of it sitting or short start ups. I'd honestly just keep and eye on it and see if it returns