Prepping my 100 for an Africa-Adventure

[Swisscheese]

AHC suspension? That load may be significantly over what it will be comfortable handling, though don't know what the Euro spec is on shocks and gross payload for your truck. That said, you probably have better access to AHC specific heavy duty shocks than we do in the US. Your load list is probably close to 1000lbs without gear, but with passengers.

Do a tight list of gear and weight and see how it compares to capacity limit.

Sounds like a great trip.

I have looked up the specs for my car, weight of the car is 2520kg, max. Loaded weight 3260kg which gives me a loading capacity of 740kg (= 1600lbs). Seems like quite a lot, i think that would be enough capacity though to keep the ahc setup? What do you think? I will try to keep it light and simple, although a bullbar will be necessary i think, dont you?

Not sure what your budget is. I would focus on all the maintenance. Spare bearings/hub rebuilding items. Research ahc load capacity for your euro spec. If anything consider ditching ahc all together, and going with heavier duty stock height suspension items.

Having lived all over east Africa for a year and traveling to a few other regions of the continent at different times. I would encourage you, in the regard of availability to consider going down to 16" wheel size. 235/85r16 is much easier to access than what would be considered odd ball 18" size wheels there unless you are actually down in South Africa and or money isn't an object. Ability to plug tires on your own. Two spares.

If you can really afford it auxiliary fuel tank plus 4 more 5 gallon cans for fuel and at least 4 more for water. A self contained water purification system, then emergency back ups such as uv light systems/iodine tablets. - All as back up for when you are not able to refill with bottled water. Doxycycline for malaria is a must for prevention.

I would encourage you to reconsider a roof top tent. Pull out the second row of seats. Convert that into a locking storage, and sleeping area. Ability to chain and lock all of your fuel/water cans down to roof rack.

Above all else, especially depending on where you are crossing over from Europe or shipping the vehicle too to start your travels..... As genuinely friendly as the different demographic background of everyone you are likely to meet on your travels, don't ever trust anyone. Be careful no matter where you go. It is an amazingly beautiful place! Value of life there is not something to be compared with Europe or the US.

About the spares, i would lke to bring two spares but where should i put the second one? One below the trunk but the second one doesnt go anywhere.. Buying a rear bumper with tire carrier ads weight and kills the budget anyway. On top of a rooftent, like a maggiolina i am looking for, doesnt work due to its weight.
Aux fuel will be carried in jerry cans, i guess 40liter should cut it.
The car has 2 seating rows, i think i will adjust the drawers height so that we could sleep inside the car if necessary, like in cities or what not.

Great to have a real expert about africa in this forum!

@Swisscheese Perhaps you've read 4x4tripping's blog/thread. If not...

Transafrica with a Land Cruiser 200 (Diesel)

Didnt know that one, i will look into it! Thank you

I second the thought of going for 16" and then sell me your current wheels. I can pick up, depending on your location in CH.

Even for a Euro car, this is still a unicorn. Facelift HDJ, with manual transmission (!) and no nav (!) and cloth (!) interior. One of a kind for sure. Where is it from? This was never a first delivery CH 100-series.

I second the thoughts on AHC though. I love AHC and have it but it severely limits your load capacity. Consider removing the second row seats as well as the third row (which you were planning anyway because of the drawers?), for weight loss and thus more load capacity. If you remove both and it will just be the two of you, you should be able to carry a s***-ton of gear, more than enough. Many will advise against AHC though, for Africa travels, because if it fails you will have major problems.

The Dutch Landcruiser club has a PDF with more than a few useful africa tips (incl gear, spares and weight tips). I can send if wished, but it's in Dutch and you'll need to run it through Google translate.

It actually is a car from germany, thats where the rust comes from since switzerland has no access to the sea
I have a friend who likes to offer me a different set of 18' which i would have to put new rubber onto it, so my current wheels will be for offer at one point, i will make sure you will know.
Yes, please send me this file so i can get an idea of what is really needed. PN me
Cheers

 

[Live to Ski]

feddomw: I too would love a copy of that pdf! I can dream can't I?


The Dutch Landcruiser club has a PDF with more than a few useful africa tips (incl gear, spares and weight tips). I can send if wished, but it's in Dutch and you'll need to run it through Google translate.[/QUOTE]

 

[Live to Ski]

Also, agree with ditching rooftop and doing the interior sleeping platform.

That advice was given to me by a Carbondale Col LC fanatic. Can't remember his name, but he used to have the zebra painted 55, then a very nice diesel 60. Not sure if he still does, but he did work for one of those well known 100% LC conversion/mechanics in the area.

Anyway, he basically said that if you need to get out of the area fast.....no time to disembark from any other sleeping arrangement other than inside the truck. Makes sense to me.

 

[bwell]

Also, agree with ditching rooftop and doing the interior sleeping platform.

That advice was given to me by a Carbondale Col LC fanatic. Can't remember his name, but he used to have the zebra painted 55, then a very nice diesel 60. Not sure if he still does, but he did work for one of those well known 100% LC conversion/mechanics in the area.

Anyway, he basically said that if you need to get out of the area fast.....no time to disembark from any other sleeping arrangement other than inside the truck. Makes sense to me.

That reason, and safety, safety from local nationals, and primarily safety from different animals. Generally they will not want anything to do with you, however a lot are not conditioned to run from you and might not care.

 

[Clunky]

I have done a list on what is required for a Africa overland trip and I was advised to put a bigger radiator in(Africa spec), strengthen the front lower control arms and to up my tire size to 285's. I thought the diesel was dual battery anyway, I have seen a lot with two battery's.

I'm curious about the bigger radiator suggestion. Has anyone done this and with what?

 

[feddomw]

I'm curious about the bigger radiator suggestion. Has anyone done this and with what?

Out of my area of expertise, but if it helps I can take pics of my radiator and front engine compartment when I get my 100 back from the shop. The reason I suggest this is that I have a Middle East-spec 100 (GCC-spec is the technical name), so I'll venture that I have the biggest OEM radiator they ever offered.

 

[catz]

Options for dual batteries system

500amps
Dual Operation VSS (Voltage Sensitive Switch) HD Optic 12/24V 500A MC6 | Marinco

275amps
Dual Operation VSS (Voltage Sensitive Switch) 275A Cont Motorized | Marinco

 

[Julian Stead]

I'm curious about the bigger radiator suggestion. Has anyone done this and with what?

It must be that the uk spec land cruiser is fitted with a smaller OEM radiator to a hotter climate version. This advise was given by a land cruiser specialist that does a lot of work preparing trucks for overlanding in africa. I don't have details as I didn't ask, it was just on the list he gave me of what work I should do before travelling down through africa.

 

[uHu]

I have looked up the specs for my car, weight of the car is 2520kg, max. Loaded weight 3260kg which gives me a loading capacity of 740kg (= 1600lbs). Seems like quite a lot, i think that would be enough capacity though to keep the ahc setup? What do you think? I will try to keep it light and simple, although a bullbar will be necessary i think, dont you?

You have to rethink that. Going on a long trip with close to max load on the AHC will give you trouble. Period. You can keep the ahc if you can wrench it yourself, don't expect to find ANY t0yota mechanic with the faintest idea. Also, if going outside highways, there is a greater risk of failure with the AHC than with a conventional suspension. (Just get a broken branch jump up and kill a linkage or wire to a sensor, and you'll have to limp out of there). There is also the issue with handling/control, as mentioned above here. With a heavily laden truck, the ahc can not offer enough damping for hard driving, but good comfort.
If you do keep the ahc (I would, maybe), you have to get stronger coil springs for the rear, suited to your extra load, and to adjust the torsion bars up front. You also have to bring the techStream installed on your laptop, and the interface cable. You'd be lost in africa without it. Just get hold of it right away and check your ahc neutral pressure - you'd be surprised to see how much over you are already, with an empty truck.

Absolutely get 16" rims and tyres. Standard size in africa. You will probably need replacements, and 18" just slows down your progress and empties your pocket. There is also less risk of rim damage with more rubber and less rim. If you don't want to get a dual rear wheel carrier, you'll be ok with the standard setup, as long as you don't challenge the outback too hard. (Helicopter lift to get to your spare wheel ) But do get a tyre repair kit of good quality. (I have several times been able to fix a hole even before all the air has escaped).

The rust is not too bad, but get it under control right away, particularly the body-rust under the floor and at the back. How will you do it? And how are the tailgates re rust?

Then, to the most important: This sounds like a fantastic adventure, an experience you will grow on, and keep with you for life. Go for it, fully and wholly.

Edit:
Battery: You do not actually have a dual battery setup, but a single battery set up as two units linked into one package (=battery). As long as you are not going to see areas with several degrees under freezing, you'll be ok with separating the two, and using only a single battery for starting. It will give a higher strain on that battery, but it should still last a couple of years (or 4). Just make sure you disconnect the heater grid, it is abselutely not required, and gives a very high load on the battery and alternator at each and every start where the engine has a temperature under full operating temp.
Much better with a dual setup on an expedition like this. You could even rearrange your engine compartment to get a bigger "house" battery fitted, or a 3rd one.

 

[Swisscheese]

Options for dual batteries system

500amps
Dual Operation VSS (Voltage Sensitive Switch) HD Optic 12/24V 500A MC6 | Marinco

275amps
Dual Operation VSS (Voltage Sensitive Switch) 275A Cont Motorized | Marinco

i was thinking more of a setup where i don't have to open the hood each morning and evening to separate the batteries or connect them to charge. the T-max setup seems to be a reasonably priced option which offers these amenities. nevertheless, i was also thinking about a main switch if the car sits for few days without the need of running a fridge for example. does anyone have experience with the setup? i have also found a thread on this product which led me to the conclusion of wanting to buy it.

You have to rethink that. Going on a long trip with close to max load on the AHC will give you trouble. Period. You can keep the ahc if you can wrench it yourself, don't expect to find ANY t0yota mechanic with the faintest idea. Also, if going outside highways, there is a greater risk of failure with the AHC than with a conventional suspension. (Just get a broken branch jump up and kill a linkage or wire to a sensor, and you'll have to limp out of there). There is also the issue with handling/control, as mentioned above here. With a heavily laden truck, the ahc can not offer enough damping for hard driving, but good comfort.
If you do keep the ahc (I would, maybe), you have to get stronger coil springs for the rear, suited to your extra load, and to adjust the torsion bars up front. You also have to bring the techStream installed on your laptop, and the interface cable. You'd be lost in africa without it. Just get hold of it right away and check your ahc neutral pressure - you'd be surprised to see how much over you are already, with an empty truck.

Absolutely get 16" rims and tyres. Standard size in africa. You will probably need replacements, and 18" just slows down your progress and empties your pocket. There is also less risk of rim damage with more rubber and less rim. If you don't want to get a dual rear wheel carrier, you'll be ok with the standard setup, as long as you don't challenge the outback too hard. (Helicopter lift to get to your spare wheel ) But do get a tyre repair kit of good quality. (I have several times been able to fix a hole even before all the air has escaped).

The rust is not too bad, but get it under control right away, particularly the body-rust under the floor and at the back. How will you do it? And how are the tailgates re rust?

Then, to the most important: This sounds like a fantastic adventure, an experience you will grow on, and keep with you for life. Go for it, fully and wholly.

Edit:
Battery: You do not actually have a dual battery setup, but a single battery set up as two units linked into one package (=battery). As long as you are not going to see areas with several degrees under freezing, you'll be ok with separating the two, and using only a single battery for starting. It will give a higher strain on that battery, but it should still last a couple of years (or 4). Just make sure you disconnect the heater grid, it is abselutely not required, and gives a very high load on the battery and alternator at each and every start where the engine has a temperature under full operating temp.
Much better with a dual setup on an expedition like this. You could even rearrange your engine compartment to get a bigger "house" battery fitted, or a 3rd one.

i have read some articles about changing the ahc for a normal liftkit and others who simply changed their old ahc shocks for new ones. my rear shocks look quite rough due to rust on the proctection tube over the upper part of the shock, so i will probably find out myself quite soon..
havent yet thought about stiffer springs, what product would you suggest? seems like a reasonable mod to keep the longevity of the suspension. i have read some articles about adjusting the torsion bars but i never got quite around understanding the how and why about it. how would i do this and with which effect?
techStream doesnt ring a bell, what is that? something i would run of the OBD port in the footwell of the driverside?
about the rust, i will be able to go to a friends garage where i will knock down all the loose rust before spraying some rust-converter on. after that there will be a thick coat of underbody paint. the tailgate has acutally some rust on it, seems to be a common spot for water to collect.

concerning a third battery, i would like to add one but if possible in the engine compartment, but where would i put it? i dont see an obvious space for this.

 

[Swisscheese]

i cant edit my posts, so here is the picture of my tailgate. question: how can i place a picture in my text where i want it to be (not on the end like last post), and where can i edit my post to fix that placement?

 

[MJM]

Tint the windows would be my suggestion having slept in my LC many times it is the best thing you can do.
It also provides a bit of mystery as in other do not know if you are two people or 8 inside the vehicle while traveling.

 

[Swisscheese]

Tint the windows would be my suggestion having slept in my LC many times it is the best thing you can do.
It also provides a bit of mystery as in other do not know if you are two people or 8 inside the vehicle while traveling.

Already ordered
5% black tint

 

[uHu]

TechStream: There are lots of threads here about it. And also on how to measure ahc pressure and adjusting springs accordingly. It's a must for an ahc cruiser. And yes, it's for the obd port, only that this is not obd2, but m-obd, t0yotas take on it, normal obd2 readers don't work on HDJ100.

Re the rear shocks, the outer tube has no function other than protection. And that's not really a shock either, just a hydraulic ram transferring the movement via the ahc fluid to the gas springs (aka accumulators, or spheres) via the actuators. And the actuators are actually performing the damping (shock absorber function) through it's valving system. (You'll find threads on that to, in here).
OK, back to the outer tube: You can cut off the remainder of the outer tube, flip off the bottom mount, slide off the cutoff, and slide on a piece of plastic drain pipe. Split the pipe at the top and attach with a hose clamp. Works great, and doesn't rust.

Advice re rust:
Rust converters don't work. Do not cover anything with paint unless you have removed all rust, back to clean metal, and primed. If you can't do that, it's better with oil. E.g. Fluid Film.

 

[Swisscheese]

TechStream: There are lots of threads here about it. And also on how to measure ahc pressure and adjusting springs accordingly. It's a must for an ahc cruiser. And yes, it's for the obd port, only that this is not obd2, but m-obd, t0yotas take on it, normal obd2 readers don't work on HDJ100.

Re the rear shocks, the outer tube has no function other than protection. And that's not really a shock either, just a hydraulic ram transferring the movement via the ahc fluid to the gas springs (aka accumulators, or spheres) via the actuators. And the actuators are actually performing the damping (shock absorber function) through it's valving system. (You'll find threads on that to, in here).
OK, back to the outer tube: You can cut off the remainder of the outer tube, flip off the bottom mount, slide off the cutoff, and slide on a piece of plastic drain pipe. Split the pipe at the top and attach with a hose clamp. Works great, and doesn't rust.

Advice re rust:
Rust converters don't work. Do not cover anything with paint unless you have removed all rust, back to clean metal, and primed. If you can't do that, it's better with oil. E.g. Fluid Film.

I have ordered following product:

From what i read in the threads here on ih8mud, the obd2 should work, so i believed.. i would like to scan my ahc-pressure to make sure the coils arent shot and should be replaced before leaving for africa. same goes of course for the torsionbars. so does this piece of diagnostic tool do that job or not?

 

[DirtDawg]

I have ordered following product:

View attachment 1253474

From what i read in the threads here on ih8mud, the obd2 should work, so i believed.. i would like to scan my ahc-pressure to make sure the coils arent shot and should be replaced before leaving for africa. same goes of course for the torsionbars. so does this piece of diagnostic tool do that job or not?

That will probably only read diagnostic data. You need tech stream and a VCI cable to read AHC pressures. @PADDO might want to chime in here.

 

[2001LC]

It's been mentioned here already but I'll state it again because it is the most important: Do all maintenance items bringing it up to date, and check all systems first (base line it). Assume nothing!

 

[Julian Stead]

I use icarsoft i905 obd2 diagnostic tool to read AHC pressures.

 

[Live to Ski]

Techstream: Not sure on this, but to take full advantage, might need data/wifi. If you search the threads I have been involved with, you will see a Techstream one in the 100 section where one of our memebers, who is a techstream guru, chimes in.

Seems he was able to do a 2 day subscription, and downloaded like crazy the tech info he felt he needed (subscription is typically 1 year....$1000+).

 

[El Cid]

Swiss, though my trips across the Western US and US/Mex border are incredibly minor compared to what you'll undertake, I am amazed at the amount of times I've needed to use my very basic/homebrew first aid kit that I created for long trips.

I went to an Army/Navy surplus store here in the US and purchased the following first aid kit bag(not the contents).
Elite First Aid M17 Medic Bag FA110

You can cookbook and purchase the contents individually much more cheaply than what is in the bag, that's my first suggestion. But fill it up. It's well designed and well thought out. That list is pretty good, but nothing you can't find at a pharmacy.

But depending on the distance/location, I've occasionally included the following as well.
-Cipro
-Saline IV's(for dehyrdation) x4
-Epi Pens.

Being able to combat infection, allergic reactions and dehydration without needing to see a doctor in a remote part of ANY place can be a huge plus. And it's fairly simple stuff to plan for.