Transafrica with a Land Cruiser 200 (Diesel)

[4x4tripping]

I finished an overlanding trip, from switzerland to southafrica, over the west route.

Because many people asked me, to do also an little writeup in english - i decide to try that - mixed with some pictures. My english is`nt the best - but i will try.

Our Blog (a kind of an travel diary) is in german - but it seems to be hard to read - with google translate

So i will add here - over the time - a diary of each day, together with some pictures. But i will start also with 2-3 Postings about how the buildup is done and so on

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Here was the route we had planned:

And here is the car - i had choosen - not just for the transafrica - we plan too to do some other extended trips with this car...

It is an land cruiser 200 with european specs - hydraulic suspension with allows to lift and lower the car, to adjust the dampers.

Here the short specs: AHC (Active Hight Control), Adaptive Variable Suspension (AVS), Crawl, JBL 14-speaker system, Iphone Integration, USB Connection, Hard Disk Drive (HDD) Navigation, Anti-theft system, Sunroof, 14 Airbags, Pre Crash Safety System, Four-zone automatic air-conditioning, Pollen filter / Clean air filter, Active Traction control (A-TRC).

The Engine is an 4.5l Diesel TwinTurbo V8 with 286 PS/HP, 210 kw and 650 Nm.

Why such a modern car? Why not? In my experience in laos the locals drive often the never cars than the guys who do the world trips.. Worst case you have to move to the next big capital..

He is equipped now with an additional fuel tank, a winch, difflocks, 33" mud terrain tyres, sand ladders, ground anchor, a well sorted recovery kit, airbag lift, sideawning and an roof rack & thule roof box.

And here is too the complete team:

I dreamed since many years about - to build an overlanding setup, which allows me to stay several days out of civilization, allows to sleep inside - and has everything needed.

I bought the car, and start the buildup without to have an target to travel.. I would like to drive the americas, the silkroad, africa - there are many ideas in my head.

I did some (holiday) trips with rental 4x4`s with a friend, namely in laos and the nothern part of thailand - but with an extended trip - he dont want to join.
So i start planning the trip for me alone - and set the focus to africa.

My Girlfriend watched my plans - and at one day - she told me that she would think about - to come with me. I had never guessed, that she would like to do something like this. Not much comfort, sleeping in the car, bad roads and that for a long time.

I dont had planned about the timeframe of the trip, but - she rised in her career during our planning phase - and - you have to work a while on your new career level - to be able to work after your trip on the same level - right? The car was bought, and the first mods already done - should we wait 2 or more years?

To wait isnt one of my strengths - and i decide to do something - who allows to work and to do the trip now: we start to talk to our employers for a 6 weeks holiday - and extend that each time we talked about - so that there was at the end a commitment for 2 months

This way we are able to test our build-setup on an extended trip, see africa - and don't have to look much about the costs - we both are working and earning money.

Afterwards we can plan on an extended (at sample 1 year) trip, can change the setup of the car who wasn't good enough - that was the idea behind. In retrospect, this length (2 months) was pretty perfect – but that we dont know before ^^

Unfortunately the situation in northern africa goes worse and worse, specially mali looks pretty bad - during our planning. But we watched all blogs of peoples who work there, mailed with people in mali - and we decide that we keep our plans up.


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Some also will recognize, that i have chosen to use a new nickname for that writeup. The old one i dont use anymore - it can be deleted or whatever. Therefore i use nickname 4x4tripping on many other places, i decide to use only one - all over the web.

----- to be continued -----
(next comes the buildup of the sleeping area (inside), water, board battery, freezer & cooler setup)

If me english is too bad - please stop me :whoops:

 

[patrickfinley]

Great rig!!

How did your Thule cargo box hold up during off road conditions? Did it ever pop off or seem like it was stressed?

 

[BigDouggieDoug]

Beautiful LC! Bon voyage and I'm looking forward to your updates. Thanks for sharing.

 

[4x4tripping]

Great rig!!

How did your Thule cargo box hold up during off road conditions? Did it ever pop off or seem like it was stressed?

The Thule Box has survived without making trouble. They seems to be well engineered. Also during heavy rain - the stuff inside was dry.

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The plan to sleep inside - need all the space the Land Cruiser 200 have.

Here is the car stripped out:

Here Fridge and Freezer gets placed (Engel 15L)..

And some lightweight drawers

A Watertank with 85l also

Water Plug with hot and cold water (heat exchanger in the engine bay)

And here some pictures from our first and only testing night:

Shower installation

The Bed and the Drawer System

There are included so many details, that i can't list all here with pictures. The car comes two cranking batteries - and we add a 3rd battery in the rear, because to run a fridge and a freezer - need some power...

I had done much research what mattress would be the best - and ended with a swiss product which is used by yacht (boat) manufactures worldwide - Fanello inside:

It allows to sleep like at home, has mattress and bed rust included in one product.

------------- to be continued -------------

 

[brussum]

You should consider writing an article and submitting it to "Toyota Trails" magazine, published by the Toyota Land Cruiser Association (www.tlca.org). They're always looking for stories just like yours.

 

[4x4tripping]

You should consider writing an article and submitting it to "Toyota Trails" magazine, published by the Toyota Land Cruiser Association (www.tlca.org). They're always looking for stories just like yours.

I will do it, when i have translated the whole diary to english - here

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I guess the visible mods you have detected (snorkel, Frontbar) on the pictures - here i show some of them - who arent visible.

3rd Battery Setup - National Luna PPP:

We dont think that this is overkill. To run a fridge and an freezer in an hot environment - need some power. And the V8 Diesel comes with 2 Batterys in Stock configuration - i dont want to use them for our stuff...

Difflock`s and Winch Power Switch:

Additional Fueltank Display and Pump Switch:

At next we should look at the electric equipment - before i start our diary

------ to be continued -------

 

[4x4tripping]

Within this Posting, i want to show some parts of our equipment we had carry with us.

Because of the bad fuel in the most part of africa - because of dirt and water inside of the fuel - we carry an external fuel filter with us - Mr Funnel - a cheap and good investment!
If you choose an diesel for africa - you have to look that your car dont carry an active particle filtre - because of the high sulfur fuel..
The Landcruiser 200 with european 2011 spec has only EURO4 Standard - and an passive DPF. He will "die" in africa - but not cause problems - because he is unmanaged.

To keep the mosquitos out of the car, we bought windows sox - a great - not very well known product. Most people choose the roof tent solution, or a popup roof - and don't try to sleep inside of the car... So not many people search something like this.

And we thought about a Satellite-Phone, bacon or something similar.

After some research i decide me for an satellite Two-Way Messager - which allows you to send and receive short messages over the satellite network.

There are two products, Spot Connect and Delorme Inreach, who both offer nearly the same - basic functionality - and much more if you connect with your Smartphone (Bluetooth). We decide us for the Delorme InReach.

Therefore you don't find Garmin, Navigon or TomTom Mapsource for Westafrica, we choose an Ipad with downloaded Bing-Hybrid - a mixed Street and Satelliteimage-view - as main navigation unit. And an Garmin Device - with Tracks4Africa an semi-comercial product - but with a very poor coverage of westafrica... But this product has also some Hotels, Fuelstations, Campsites - so for Marocco and Namibia & Namibia it is a good buy.

For Photography we choose a good compact cam - and we carry an notebook for writing our diary.

Therefore we had an Freezer and a Fridge, we had planned to cook mostly by ourself - this is also better when you want to wild camp (what you have to, because there will be no hotels, too restaurants will be rare).
So we carry a lot of food with us, rice, noodles, pesto and so on..

I would say - we have finished the equipment stuff now. Shure there was much more we carry, but nothing special.

Ahh - i forget the spares! We carry:

1x Diesel Filtre
1x Air Filtre

Not more, no tools.. Just some duct tape. I have two left hands - i cant repair something I can change a filtre, an tyre or a fuse - thats it. For more i need help.

Because of this i choose a new car - so i know the history of it. And it was also the reason to choose a Land Cruiser. They just need their scheduled services, right?

A guy like me will never had the relaxed feeling - to know that everything on the car is well maintained. I just hope - my mechanic did it :think:


--------------- to be continued --------------

 

[Isaacjohnstar]

Subscribed!!!

 

[Sverige]

How was the part through Angola?

You must have some good Angola stories...

 

[4x4tripping]

How was the part through Angola?

You must have some good Angola stories...

It is a very beautiful country - we arent the last time there

We will reach Angola in our Diary - in some weeks

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What is such a trip, without a farewell party :friday:

Thanks for all who partied with us - it was a beautiful night!


Day 1

Saturday, 10. November 2012

We just have 2 month for our trip - so we both worked till we start - till friday evening - as a normal working day.

Our plan was - to start at saturday early at 8 o clock, but heavy rain don't allow to load the car finally, at friday night.

It was saturday afternoon 2 clock, as the car was finally loaded, the water tanks filled - and we recognized that we still have to buy some stuff. Just insignificant things like binoculars and so on..

It was 7 clock as we finally started - also with fuel topped up - again during heavy rain. We had to reach our ferry in Barcelona at the early afternoon - so we push to Geneve and drove 675km and just passed Nime, as we both got really tired. It was nearly at 2 clock in the morning.
So we left the highway for our first wild camp - unfortunately still in a rainy and wet environment. If you also have done wild camping - you know - not easy to find a spot at night. But at the 2nd try we find a space - a meadow next to the graveyard.

It was a not easy to keep the mud out of the car, but we just cleaned our theeth - and got sleeping.

--------------- to be continued ----------------------

enjoy the look of the clean car - it will change soon

 

[4x4tripping]

Day 2

At 5:30am we stand up again, because we have to be in Barcelona at the early afternoon - and have no idea where the port is.

Shure we was very early - and found the right port without problems.

At 12:30 we already was checked in - and had to wait for the entry process.

The departure was on time. But the ferry itself - we are glad that we dont take the ferry from Italy - and have to spend 2 nights..

We had a double cabin with sea view - just ok - not more..

The room was quiet dirty, and used - would say - a bit ****ed up...

During our tour, we discovered that where the wellness and massage section should be - there is a mosque now.

And the pool area was converted to a hookah bar. They dont have relocated the stuff - there is no pool anymore - no wellness section...

But - we don't expect too much - and got a nice meal in the ala card restaurant.

--------------- to be continued ---------------

 

[4x4tripping]

Day 3, Morocco

Today we reach tanger. The harbor is far away of the city and we reach them not at 4 clock like our tickets showed - we reach them at 8 o clock, as it was dark.

As we drove from the ferry to the customs, and was standing in a long queue, as a guy with french numberplates rolls backwards. I horn and flash - but he dont break, and boom - it cames to contact.

Good start or? A guy jumped out of the car and starts to be kindly aggressive and seems to thought that i have hit him. Ohhh give me the same drungs please
Therefore i can't speak french, i just inspected my car and let him cry, lucky me - nothing happened. I show him, that i thought that he is a bit silly, and went back into the car.

Other french travelers talk to the guy - and he gets quiet and joined the queue again.

The custom process was ugly - then we dont have our car entry in our passport (we should had got it in the ship) - and the border police has closed - but after some research we got everything - and could start into the night.

There was some police checkpoints, but they don't try to look after us.

After some kilometers the 3rd Battery starts to beep beep beep - the warning that he is discharged and need power. Because they are linked to the alternator - she should have power.

We stopped and start to solve the problem. All cable was fitted correctly, but the led shows - no power. I guess that the there a fuse has blown, and right - 30 amp was not enough. Glad i had a 60 amp fuse in the same xxl size - and after a short break we could drive again.

Because all says - dont drive at it is dark in africa - we looked for a place to stay, during driving - and after 100 kilometers we saw a parked camping mobile on a car park.
It was a kind of campsite, no toilet, no shower, just a place to stay - directly on the beach - with an guard who wants a small fine.

Perfect for the first night - we have everything we need - with us

 

[4x4tripping]

Day 4

The night was pretty cold, we are glad that we have an Webasto Parking heater (diesel) who allows to heat the car without to starting the engine.

At the morning we wake up early, and decide to make our breakfast later - when the sun warms the environment a bit more.

At home we both take our breakfast at work, because we arent hungry at the early morning - so that isnt unusual for us.

Like we mentioned bevore, we try to travel to nordafrika in a fast way, to save time for the rest of the trip. We will travel to Marocco and Mauretania again soon - inside of normal holidays.

After a short drive we take an highway and a nice restaurant on a restplace- and get some omletts for breakfast - yummi!.

At 15:40 we arrived in Marrakesh and find an guarded parking.

We walk through the medina, the old part of the city.

Soon we found a very nice sky-bar - and take on of our latest changes for an good mojito. Later we wandered some more about the market, past huge piles of spices, meats and vegetables - and of course lots of souvenirs for tourists. It was loud, but an experience for the senses - with the spices - an exotic flair.


As it gets dark we went for the car, because the parking was only guarded till 6:00.

The car was still there - and we feed our Garmin Device with Tracks4Africa with a POI Campsite.

30 km away there was a campsite, it was very funny to drive at night, because to use the light is optional in africa.

On the way was a big "Carefour" Market inside of a big mall - and we use the change to top up our freezer with meat.

There where the campsite should be (Tracks4Africa) - is now home of karaoke bar and a disco.

We look for a wild camp in a much too crowded area - we saw a hotel with a big parking area, surrounded by a cactus grove. We ask the Guard, if we can camp there - and so we get our first non-wild camp for free


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Our basic campsite at the beach in the morning:





The skybar was very lovely!



Marrakesh Medina


-------------- to be continued ----------------

 

[4x4tripping]

Day 5

At 7 clock we started again (this is not early - when you go to bed on time) - towards Agadir.

Since there was no good road link - which would have resulted with a long way to Agadir - we went offroad - and followed the Dirtracks corresponded most likely a direct route. What an amazing car setup for drive a fast speed on that bad dirt tracks, also with near 4to!

We arrived in Agadir around noon and drove straight to Toyota - I wanted to buy two diesel filters, just in case..

Since the workshop just had lunch, we enjoyed a delicious meal in a restaurant. Later we auctioned two diesel filters - and drove on towards in direction of Mauritania.

Today we just want to eat some kilometers

A beautiful day with beautiful scenery and lush green hills.

After some hours driving, we calls it in german "christmas tree" - the cockpit displays an Error: "Check VRG system", the engine light illuminated on 4LO flashing.

What a luck that we are well prepared. With my Iphone and an Kiwi Wifi ODB2 Connector i was able to read and reset the error.

The car dont runs into the service mode during the error appears, i could drive normally. But i cant enable 4Lo - what isn't funny.

But you can guess how happy my girlfriend was - that we have to do such work so early :hillbill:

I was really annoyed about - but to try to suggest her - that this isnt really a problem...

On the way - as it was on the evening, looking for a wild camp there was a Beach Camping announced - and we ended up on a beautiful beach. I christened it Surfers Paradise - beautiful waves. We also took advantage of the existing washing machine, because we dont know how many chances we have to do it this way.

We built all the equipment for the first time - the awning with sides and cooked us steaks with mashed potatoes on the Coleman, our gasoline stove and treated ourselves to one of the rare bottles of Rioja wine.

Lunch

Our Beachcamp-Site

 

[4x4tripping]

Day 6

Thursday 15. November 2012 - Agadir to Laayun ca 630km

Today we got a new fuel usage record. 13.x liter / 100 km. With mud terrain tyres - roof box - and heavy loaded - a top value. The record we have only managed it because only low speeds are allowed. Mostly we drove 60-100 km / h

The diesel fuel here costs 66 to 90 cents - just our diesel filters brings the guys at the gas station to despair.

It is tedious to refuel so we need for 90 Liters around 20 minutes... But despite now 3 diesel filters on stock - it's just too hot - because to run into problems, especially as the heater was mounted next to the fuel filter, and it will be quite a fumbling, to replace the filter.

Once you have water in the tank, a filter helps also not so much - you have to clean your tanks..

Despite numerous laser checks, it caught us only once - 300 dirhams (about 30 francs) for 13km / h too much. Affordable, but time consuming. As was measured repeatedly, we drove mostly very adapted or could rush behind a local car.

Nevertheless, it caught us again. Oops, I ran over stop sign - this time, 700 dirhams due.

We later learned that this place is famous for it - most overlander overdrives the stop sign here. As foreigner you don’t suspect it at this place.

It was like a bad movie. A police stopped us and asked for the papers. As he did, he went to the other side of the road - to his colleagues who watched the oncomming traffic with a laser radar gun. They had some smalltalk, then they signs me – to come over.

They looked in my Passport see Visas from Laos, Vietnam to Congo and Angola – and means: you are a rich man, because you can travel that much. They want 700 Dirhams as fractions – and shows me too a fine form.

The first time we were faced with bribery. For half of the amount, you would let us go without penalty.

But - I have no problem to pay for the things I did wrong - and I will not encourage corruption. So I was on the full amount and normal buses with a puncture / receipt. They settled much time filling - but it was worth it.

But mostly we were ignored as a tourist, or were just lucky.

Today, the landscape had changed slowly.

You notice that you closer to the desert. Even more of a stone desert as a sandy desert. It is just wonderful to drive through. It is just wonderful to drive through!

It was already dark when we reached the Western Sahara - and we were stopped several times and were able to use our Fiche first time. The fiche is a summary of personal data, as well as the vehicle on a leaf.
Without a fiche – you have to wait till they enter your details in big books – what will use some time.

It was again already dark – as we found due to street signs an campground - with ocean sounds (it is too dark to see anything.)

Tomorrow we will cross the Western Sahara and head to the border of Mauritania - by then there will be at 08:00 at the border crossing ...

 

[4x4tripping]

Day 7

Again we wake up early - and prepared us to start. As i was ready to start the engine, i detect a 15cm crank in the windscreen. Nothing what looks to dangerous, we marked the end of the crank - to see if it gets bigger.
The scenery was again incredibly beautiful, but very sparse and a certain monotony - and we saw our first camels.
And the jump works unfortunately - we had taped the spot where he left off - and he grew up with every few KM back a bit more, especially for the smaller offroad parts we had. So we have enabled the home help - to get a new windshield.
This means that my mother phoned the Toyota workshop - for the part number of the windshield - and tried in Mali (Bamoko) or Burkina Faso (Ouagadougou) to organize - such - or a suitable windshield. Why my mom? She is retired - and has time for stuff like this.
Unfortunately in Mali the Phoneline was down in the morning, and at midday my mother detects - that the phonenumber listed at their website is wrong. She try to get the right number with the help of the sleeping camel crew, Toyota internatonal - but had no chance.
She gives us a call, and we decide to head as quick as possible in direction of mauretania, nouakchott - to look what Toyota in the capital of mauretania can do for us. It makes no sense to call them - they cant organice a windscreen on the fly - if they have one ok, otherwise we will try to order one to benin or congo - hoping our windscreen dont crash till there.
In the south of marocco isnt much population and slowly the more stone based desert change to a sand desert. With the less population also the ammount of Police and Radar checkpoints arent that often - nice to drive.
Unfortunately i forget our camera on the frontbar - during a pee break - on a sandtrack in the desert. We noticed after about 15 Kilometers - and decided to go back and
to seek it.
Without GPS Tracking - no chance! Everything looks so equal in the desert... We hoped that the camera is still fallen down on the sand track, and not on the big road. Have i mentioned that we drove on a sandtrack with near 4000kg - and dont sink in?
The camera was still there Too bad we recognize that we will reach the boarder now too late for crossing :-(
On the further journey through the barren landscape - we were suddenly surrounded by little yellow birds - the completely uncoordinated as a swarm flew on to us. Before we could slow down it had popped a couple of times - and we realized that we were caught in a swarm of locusts.
The locusts were great, so long approx 8-9cm but looks bigger durring they fly. The phenomenon accompanied us so 2-3km - and we were glad to be able to then go back on the gas.
At dusk so against 5:50 clock we arrived at the Moroccan border - unfortunately the barrier was down and a small queue in front.
We met Christopher and Janine, Janine, we met on the road before.
She travels alone on a motorcycle - with a long-term horizon. Your planned trip will end once in Togo.
Christopher had just sold his car, so really wanted to do in Ghana, but had lost some parts of the car - and had quite a few breakdowns- so he preferred to sell.
He had sold off the car in the middle of nowhere, and wants to hitchhike back the next day to Europe.
It was a social evening, with mutton meat, which were once the shoo fly - before our pieces were cut. But through the grilling, we did not worry. In addition there were chips and salad.
In a retrospect view that was a pretty risk - but our stomach did not complain.
How different our round was. Christopher and Janine negotiated the butcher down extremely - and found the price at the end just "ok" - and did everything they could to save the money - while we pay at the end the round almost alone - 16 francs - peanuts ... Survivalist meets working tourists... It was getting late..
Meanwhile, a huge queue waiting trucks and cars on two tracks on the opening of the border in the morning.
We stood in the queue again - were allowed to join to our original position and just got in - without setting up the awning or so.
It was pretty loud and boisterous. From time to time a big truck get fired up - to heat.
We were extremely pleased that we dont have a rooftent - and to handle that noise. We started the webasto heating device -and got sleeping.


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Not the best picture.. But you see some flying locusts:




The beautiful coastline:




We drove some funny offroad stuff - to get a close picture of:




Glad that we found the camera!


--------------------------- to be continued ---------------------------

 

[4x4tripping]

I would like to do one through more of a forest area. I love tree lands.

There are many destinations which will lead you through beautiful forest areas - on all continents...

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Day 8 Samedy 17 November, no Man's Land - Nouakchott

At 6:10 we were awakened by a terrible wrong singing Müzein - grrr - because we have to get used to it.

At 9 clock it really took off with the customs clearance for departure from Morocco. It took 3.5 hrs, a nerve-wracking slow procedure. After all, you came into the conversation with other travelers, about faith and religion. :hillbill: Janine was pretty afraid about Gitte`s relaxed chatting about such a content..

We had been briefed perfect about the - no man's land - but we were so distracted, probably by parked and before moving cars - that we caught not the left lane.. But we saw suddenly the ominous black Mercedes you can read about on read several blogs.

Usually the local guys try to mislead you that way that you got stuck - and they help you for pretty much money. I road about 200 USD.

We made it, even though we were almost drowned twice in the deep sand. We don`t had drained the tire pressure, because we had heard that the left lane would be easy to make.

Without the power of the V8, we would probably have to use the first time the sand ladders...

It was the adventure route we drove - and the crank on the windscreen starts to grow and split rapidly.

We did not know if the whole windshield shatters soon - but now the crack dazzled directly where the viewing area extends - depending on the sunlight...

Then we reach the Mauritanian border - and a long long waiting line. A fixer (helpers) promised us that we would get past the long line, when we will use his service...

He kept his word - ran with Gitte a clearance point to the next. One wanted the phone number of her, another guy wants to marry her - she had a funny tour.
And in no time I was waved from the long queue and could drive up.

The fixer had excellent contacts - the border guards could hardly see into the car - and hey presto, we were with a small gratuity in Mauritania.

WTF - why there was no fixer for the Morocco checkout ....

(To say it clear - this was the only time a fixer was helpful. Later we mostly was on small borders - there are no helpers. And the 2nd time we use such a service - it was a waste of money and time.

It is like russian roulette - if you have a helper with good connections - the border police don't even check the inside of your car and you can proceed fast for a small amount of money- if you got a stupid guy - it just gets expensive.

I read all Transafrica blogs from the last 5 years i had found in english/german - and many in italian and french language - thats what i read - what matches our experiences - also when we just use that kind of Service two times.)

We went quickly - through an amazing szenery - giant sand dunes which sometimes starts obtain the streets again, yellow dunes, red dunes and spectacular landscapes - still hoping to be at Toyota at business time.

Mauritania appears to be really poor - we saw small huts and no electricity for miles around. The improved just short before we reach the capital.

Gitte fed the Navi with the coordinates of Toyota - we reached the place so around 17:30 - but it was already closed. One of the guards said, morning 8 clock it will open - on a sunday... And then someone walk by he said working at Toyota - and the windscreen would be in stock. We are curious ..

Now we feed the navigation unit again -with a campsite POI - directly at the beach and drove through the middle of the bustling city. Unlike in Morocco the police here is very relaxed, no speed control or other trouble - they just ask occasionally about our target - or right after the "Fiche"

Susi, our Garmin Nuvi GPS fitted with Track4Africa - leads us through the middle of - slums were now the wrong term. I would say a mix of luxury houses that were under construction, dilapidated barracks and an XXL garbage dump.

A route we was of course, incredibly out of place - where we were admired as one of the wonders of the world.

Apparently everything was built under the water table - because often big areas was under water - and we drive in many death ends..
After we sometime had to head back we reached something like the "beach road" - paved but with holes that required special attention.

We drove to a campsite on the sea. The guards at the entrance were little to inspire confidence - and wanted money for parking. We tried to explain to them that we want camping and could then navigate the terrain without money.

The houses looked pretty decayed, and we spontaneously decided - do not want to stay here. Gitte asked for a toilet - which did not exist anymore - and one of the residents pointed to a row of bushes ...

And the show goes on - on the way here, we were passed by a receipt with hotel logo. At the Sabah hotel we asked for camping - and found a nice spot.

Formally, one might say - that as long no one has camped -. The pool was empty and disfigured by a steel skeleton (maybe it was before even a indoor swimming pool), but at least we had the middle of the city a safe parking space - with beach access.

When we were still in setting up the camp, a funny guy popped up and offered us fish - we agreed - and a little bit later he came by with three fishes.

When he realized our puzzled look - he helped us with the preparation of the fish. An good lesson! When he finished we wrapped the fish in aluminum paper after we had it seasoned with salt and pepper.

We cooked rice and Asian sauce and ready was a delicious menu. It was gorgeous!

The evening was crowned with a delicious sundowner - of course with ice - something that we will enjoy from now probably only from our own freezer...

We filter the water when filling the tank - with a three-stage filter system (a coarse filter, activated carbon and a UV Spot) - so we could win drinking water out of a lake or river.
Inside of the water tank provides a silver mesh - that the water is conserved. We don`t want to know what the restaurants and bars do - for get clean water for ice....

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A long line of cars on the border

Mines can hurt

Amazing desert

Searching the beach road..

 

[4x4tripping]

-------------------

We had first the plan to enter Mali as south as possible - through Senegal and the Saraya - Kenieba Border.
But the News about the Keyes Area aren`t that bad as we start - but the news from Senegal was bad, most foreigners has to fight a lot of corruption and bribe szenarios - so we decide to enter Mali directly.

We had the plan to drive the route Matam-Keyes till we meet Christopher at Day 7. He told us that the route Kiffa-Keyes is extremly worse to drive - and more scenic. So we decide us for the adventure route - but too with a little bad taste in the mouth - because we will enter the zone deeper who isnt really save:

We read any news from Mali we can get - before we start, had contact with locals - and we know - that this image shows the current situation (November 2012) pretty well. The red line shows where we should not go - we did it - and you will see with the next days - that this was not the best idea..

 

[4x4tripping]

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Day 9

Sunday, November 18 Nouakchott - Bushcamp

After a hearty breakfast we drove first to Toyota. Yes - the Toyota workshop was already open - they work too at sunday..
Unfortunately, there was no good news. A new windshield would not arrive before 60 days by boat and by plane 45 days.
And they told us - that they only would use original Toyota stuff, and not from the "Market".
I persisted immediately, and the guy from the reception said that these were cheap windshield "copy`s" from Taiwan available in the town. But they dont will fit not original stuff.
Not an easy decision..We know that we could possible end with a fully crashed and splattered windshield - when we don't do something. I would prefer a origin spare - but - better a copy than nothing.

Unfortunately it isn't easy to find an "market" when you don't know - what you search exactly. And we can`t talk to the locals, because of our missing french language skill.
So I proposed to address the nearest Toyota driver.. I drove slowly beside a Land Cruiser parked on the roadside, in which a man and a woman sat, and ran down my window.
It took a little bit to the driver ran down the window, we were eyed suspiciously at first. It needs some time to show him - that we want a new windscreen - but not want to go to the toyota workshop.
He pointed us back - in the direction of the toyota workshop.
Then we investigated one of these small workshops on the road and asked for a new windscreen. Several people helps to translate - and at the end we had an offer for replacing the windscreen inside of 3 hours.
After about 4 hours, where I oversaw the dismantling of each screw - we were ready to start again.

For shure - the windscreen copy just fits inside of the Land Cruiser 200.. But there are some cables who aren't used in the african version of this car. There are rain sensors, and some cables for the front heating who hasn't a part to plug in. Anyway - we got too the rainsensors to work

We decide to restock with fuel - and to drive some kilometers today. We need an half an hour with our "Mr Funnel" pre filter - it looks like the fuel quality is not the best. After that we both need a little break - and we decide spontaneous to go swimming in the sea - before we will start.
It was gorgeous - but an extreme side flow prevented deeper immersion in the water world, even if I was only up to their waists in the water, I had to fight with all my strength not to be aborted.
Then we headed to ride in the last 2-3 hours of sunshine a few KM. Through a really beautiful desert scenery...
At afternoon, short before the sun goes down we saw a track who seems to lead into the desert - and no visible signs of a village - so we decide to search for a wild camp there.

It was a pretty bad idea - it was very deep sand - and also with all difflocks engaged we got stuck soon. We lowered the air pressure - and had to dig the first time of this trip. Soon was able to follow the track further. Maybe 1.5 kilometers after leaving the road - we try to leave the track for setup our camp. We got stuck badly again. After some time we could reach the track again - and follows him some 100m`s again - before we try to break out again.

This time the sand was hard and carry our heavy weight. 50m beside of the track we settle our camp.
Today we cook steak and spaghetti with pesto rosso - yummy! It was hot, it is certainly not easy to sleep, I thought.

We was on the 2nd sundowner at night - inside of this beautiful desert scenery with near fullmoon - as we suddenly saw headlights on the big road.
This happens from time to time - but now - we saw that the lightbeam turns in our direction. Quickly we turn the camplight off - and wonders if we got detected.
The lightbeam gets closer to us - and we starts to hear too the engine. We were not surprised when we heard that this vehicle also gets stuck in the sand. The engine turns off - later too the light. But after 10 minutes - the engine starts again - the light was turned on - and the car comes closer. Again he seems to get stuck - we hear the engine on high revs - and the light who don't move anymore.
We recognize that this car will come closer - and - maybe because of us. We was there for 3 hours without any traffic. That this is a "normal" road where also the locals have to dig- we cant really believe.
If the car will keep on the track - he maybe dont see us - because we are out of the light beam - but - this night was very bright - we can see our own shadow because of the moon.
To make an emergency start - and leave back some of the camping equipment -was also not a good option. Too we know - that we will probably dig in soon again. So we decide to hide us behind the car.
The car passed the deep sand area - and hold maybe 50m before he would see our fresh made track. Then he moves again - and stops as we was there where we left the track. We moves behind the next side of the car and try to hide us. Now they're light don't blind us - we saw a pickup with 3 guys behind - saw silhouettes with turban and guns..

I think we dont have to tell you how we feel. Pure adrenaline ...

Again the car starts to move - 30m (again we keep to hide behind the car) - and then the pickup turns of the track heading directly to us.
Too late to drive away - to late for other options. We turns our flashlights on - point them to ourself - and keep the other hand in the air - and walk into the light beam of the car.
It was military, 5 times handshake for me, with the women they do not. All sides was obvious relief. They ask for a "fiche" (a document containing all the information about us, the destinations and the car).

They told as that it is dangerous to do wild camping currently in this area - and that we should look for locations in the sight distance of military or police.
But it would be ok to stay for the rest of the night.. Good for us, i`m not interested to drive at night - after some sundowners...

Then they drove away, stopped after 200m and called for colleagues. We assume that we was surrounded from some guys - before the car came closer - the guys are clever... I guess we would have been much more relaxed, if we had not been so close to Mali - and know before - that this area isn't really safe.

Then we went to bed - and slept blissfully.

We don't know how they know where we are, how they recognize that we are there. And our language skills don't allows to ask.... The desert is so beautiful! We will revisit Morocco and Mauritania soon - an dedicated desert trip

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Our Camp at morning, before we start to replace our windscreen

6 guys worked on our car

Do we have mentioned - how beautiful the desert is?

Our camp - we thought a quiet night will start...

 

[Carl L]

What an amazing report, 4x4 tripping. Please keep us updated, it is amazing to see and hear about your trip.

By the way, your english is impressive, better than many native speakers. Please stay safe.