Preparing for cross country trek

[nicksr]

Sorry for the newbie post, but hoping for some help.

Little background. I have a 93 LC with 245,000 miles. I am planning a trek from NC to CO to deliver to my son who is going to be a junior at the US Air Force Academy.

I feel bad because he and I built an '83 CJ7 (www.cjseven.com) but we had to sell it when the economy turned bad to help pay for his sisters college costs.

Anyway, he is just now allowed to have a vehicle and the only thing I can do for him is let him use our LC for the next two years.

So, with all that my question is this.

I want to get the LC ready to make the drive across country with as little chance as possible that something major will happen along the way. Additionally, I want to try to make sure nothing major happens while he is driving it because as a cadet at USAFA, he really wouldn't have any time to get it fixed.

I will have to take it to a mechanic to do some things that are beyond my capabilities, but I would like to do as much as possible to save money.

So, aside from the obvious things like rotate tires, change oil what else is likely to fail? What should I check/do before taking it to the mechanic?

I already replaced the radiator a little over a year ago. I just replaced the PS return line yesterday as it was cracked and leaking. I have an oil leak and the best I can tell it is coming from the cover behind the pulley on the front of the engine. I think it is the timing cover. Should I worry a lot about this? I know it will be an expensive repair. It only goes through about 2 quarts/month.

Anyway, I hope there are some sympathetic folks out there that can help me out.

 

[94SRUNNER]

Hi nicksr

Sounds like you just need to do a major preventative maintenance program. I would definitely do a full coolant flush and refresh (hoses and thermostat)

It sounds like you oil seep is coming from the oil pump cover. There is a great thread that shows a step by step fix -

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/72514-how-replace-oil-pump-seal-w-pics.html

Check those F/R brakes too! In addition to the engine oil, I would change the front and rear diff and transfer case oil, and check the transmission fluid.

Check the FAQ section for additional items and use that search function

I just made a similar cross country road trip....from Cincinnati to Ft. Collins, CO and then to Northern Minnesota.......other than my existing oil seep, no issues. If the Cruiser is well maintained it should make the trip with no problems.

 

[Sparky97LX]

It gets much colder in Colorado then North Carolina and an engine with that many miles will really appreciate some type of engine heater for the winter starts. Either block or frost plug type will be OK. If you haven't done the head gasket this would be something to consider also. A full tune up would be money well spent. Colorado winters are hard on older rigs. They need to be in top shape to survive.

 

[Doc]

Basically you're trying to predict what might go wrong in 2 years. That's a tall order.

Start by replacing all fluids. oil, x-fer case, tranny, diff's, etc..

(as already noted) new brake pads all around.

New air filter/ plugs.

Check the tires for wear.

There are a million things that could go wrong- but being current on preventative maintenance will help a LOT.

 

[nicksr]

There are a million things that could go wrong- but being current on preventative maintenance will help a LOT.

Yes and no. It seems there are a lot of things that tend to go wrong on every LC once they get a certain amount of miles on them. Ex: head gasket. I just can't seem to find a list of them in one place and i don't want to miss something.

To the poster above, it definately is the oil pump cover that is leaking. Wish I had figured that out when the radiator was replaced. Would have been much easier to replace then. One question though. Am I better off living with that small leak to relieve pressure from other, possibly worn seals? Reason I ask is I had an old Volvo before. I would replace one seal only to have the next worn one go.

On this LC I had the upper oil pan gasket replaced and then it blew out the crank seal. Guess that would have been another chance to have replaced that oil pump seal. :-(

 

[retrofive]

What other have said + 02 sensors, PHH, Fan Clutch. Possible PCV valve (mine passed the FSM) and or pipe (needed to be replaced), EGR valve and modulator (again the valve passed, but the modulator failed... get a green top from CDan) and the silly ~$1 o-ring for the speedo-sensor, new belts.

Simple things to check at no cost and can be cleaned up is wiring connectors under the rig. Un-clip, clean, throw some di-electric grease (is that the right term/stuff?), re-connect. Doing this you may find old, crisp, almost broken wires. Just my .02

Things that have failed on mine (94) 145k on the clock.
O2 Sensor
PHH
Locked up CDL actuator switch (fixed not replaced)
Speed-O o-ring
The main fusible link
egr modulator

 

[nicksr]

Thanks for the answers. sorry for being such a newb.

I have now spent the whole day searching around this site and have a whole new perspective of things. Man i sure wish I had done that 8 years ago when I bought this thing.

Anyway, i do have one other question.

At 222,000 miles I had a "situation". Involved coolant all over the place. Long story short, the mechanic installed part number 87209-60381 Hose Sub-Assy. I am wondering if this is the toyota part number for the PHH?

I crawled under there today and also looked through the wheel well as best I could without removing the tire. From what I could tell, the clamps look pretty shiny and the hose was black with a blue stripe. But it was the stock type clamps with the cotter pin thing. But the little bit I could see looked new. I am hoping that it was the part that was replaced and so I don't have to worry about it. At least not for another 60,000 miles or so.

 

[retrofive]

Sounds like the PHH, but not sure. I did mine mud style without PN's so can't help you there.

 

[Grench]

I crawled under there today and also looked through the wheel well as best I could without removing the tire. From what I could tell, the clamps look pretty shiny and the hose was black with a blue stripe. But it was the stock type clamps with the cotter pin thing. But the little bit I could see looked new. I am hoping that it was the part that was replaced and so I don't have to worry about it. At least not for another 60,000 miles or so.

Nobody in their right mind would put the cotter pin style clamps back on after doing a PHH job. It sounds like it is original. Get a picture of it (stick your camera phone or digi camera in there and take a pic) then post it up here. We would be able to tell you if it is original or not.

If it hasn't been changed though, that would be my #1 priority before driving cross country. At 245K on the clock... wow. Mine was leaking slightly and I was able to tear the hose material with my fingers at 120K.

There are also a set of hoses for the rear heat that may have been what went out before.

IMHO YMMV I'm not a mechanic

 

[neuroguy]

Hmmm...whole thing sounds problematic actually. LCs are great but any car/truck that needs tlc usually doesn't mix with intensive training environments. I bought two landcruisers and basically stored them since I was in training 16 hours a day for years. I still have my good old reliable corolla as my daily driver now that I'm working full time. If the cruiser makes it to Colorado, you won't be far from Slee, you could have them take a look at it. Still, I'd put the cruiser on the backburner, get a used corolla for school, and do the cruiser thing later.

 

[LC80Ducati996]

It gets much colder in Colorado then North Carolina and an engine with that many miles will really appreciate some type of engine heater for the winter starts. Either block or frost plug type will be OK. If you haven't done the head gasket this would be something to consider also. A full tune up would be money well spent. Colorado winters are hard on older rigs. They need to be in top shape to survive.

I am from Minnesota.. I have had no problems with the 80 in the winter. I had to replace one battery but I replaced the small one that was in it from the toyota used lot. So long as it has battery voltage it starts. I have had it parked on a lake next to an ice house overnight in seriously subzero temps and it starts. I think having a large good battery, checking and replacing cables as necessary and replacing the starter contacts will do much more for it than a heater.

 

[LC80Ducati996]

Nobody in their right mind would put the cotter pin style clamps back on after doing a PHH job. It sounds like it is original. Get a picture of it (stick your camera phone or digi camera in there and take a pic) then post it up here. We would be able to tell you if it is original or not.

If it hasn't been changed though, that would be my #1 priority before driving cross country. At 245K on the clock... wow. Mine was leaking slightly and I was able to tear the hose material with my fingers at 120K.

There are also a set of hoses for the rear heat that may have been what went out before.

IMHO YMMV I'm not a mechanic

The first mod I did was PHH since it had a pin hole in the hose on my second day of ownership. My rear heat lines look partially rotted. Argh.. Might just pull off the hardlines and bend new ones in the hydraulic shop at the hanger...

 

[nicksr]

I confirmed with cdan the part that was replaced was actually the PHH. Actually they replaced the PHH, the metal tubing above it and the other hose above that. So that looks good to go.

Exchanged the fluids in the F/R diffs and xfer case today. Also new red top optima thanks to warranty and rebate, less than $100 . That should crank it just fine in CO.

Found a crack forming in the muffler :-( oh well. Moving on.

Next - Air Filter, Wiper Blades, PCV Valve & Filter, Sparks Plugs & Wires, Spark Plug tube seals, Fuel Filter, Cap/Rotor, Belts, Flush Coolant, Exchange PS Fluid, F/R Rotors & Pads, Tranny Fluid Exchange, Oil Change, Lube everything, Replace upper/lower radiator hoses, Thermostat, Rotate/Balance tires, Alignment if needed.

Regarding EGR & O2 sensor. Are these really PM items, or better just to wait until there is actually an issue. These are not exactly inexpensive items.

 

[nicksr]

So after a lot of work, even more money and 2 days of driving, the LC is now in it's new home at the US Air Force Academy in Colorado Springs, CO.

Many thanks to all those that offered advice and information and especially to CDAN who saved me tons on all the many, many parts I needed. There was a lot.

I just have one more problem now and I am hoping someone can direct me to a local shop to look at and/or repair the front axle if needed.

Before I left, I was a tiny bit worried about differential fluid coming from the front breather. Made it all the way and there really wasn't any seepage that concerned me considering the miles driven. When I got here though, I stopped by a local shop and had them put some grease in the knuckles just to be sure before we drove up to breckenridge.

Once we got to Breck, the car sat from Sat afternoon until this morning. When I went out this morning, there was grease all over the backside of the passenger side knuckle.

Could this happen simply if they overfilled the knuckle and it is possible it will be fine once it loses enough through the wiper seal? Or should I get it looked at immediately? I also notice now that there is a light coat of fluid on the front pumpkin and was one tiny drop just about to fall on the floor just about where the drain plug is. It looked like it had come from the breather hose and then dripped down to the top of the axle. But there has never been anything like that before. So again, I am concerned maybe overfilling the knuckles could have cause more problems then it solved.

I am about to get on a plane back to Raleigh, NC but hopefully there will be someplace in the springs he can take it to get it fixed. Being a cadet at the academy, he simply won't ever have the time to take it to Slee, so that isn't an options.

 

[Ebag333]

If your knuckles were overfilled they may have blown the seal and pushed grease into the pumpkin. That could push the gear oil out the breather.

Sounds like a full axle rebuild is in order.....

 

[nicksr]

what needs to be done to determine the exact problem?

I hate to take it somewhere to have them tear it down just to find out it wasn't needed?

Also, if they put in the wrong kind of grease in the knuckle (say a lighter weight or lithium vs. Moly) would that cause it to weep from the wiper seal?