Pre Purchase Inspection, Post Inspection & PM of Toyota or Lexus 200 series

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Thanks, and I will "soon", and pick up the cabin filters for my 07 Unicorn if you still have them around. I wish I'd had time to show you The Black Knight, but I'm sure will see more of it!

I'm going to get some before and after cleaning picture ASAP before the cold weather hits. I'll post them up.
 
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Congrats @2001LC - I've long admired and enjoyed your 100 series restoration threads so I'm excited to see you dive into the 200 series! My son is turning 16 later this year so he will soon be driving my Hundy so I've been on the fence of getting another 100 or going 200? It seems the lowish mileage '06 - '07 100's are often commanding a higher price than a similar mileage early 200? I know you track this market so I'm wondering if you're seeing the same thing - the early 200 series is actually a better value than the late 100 series right now?

Also, can you share what you've learned about the 200 suspension systems? We all know the 100 series AHC is problematic as it ages, but what about the 200?
 
With the record warm weather we've had in Denver, I've started my "post inspection" and so far no real surprises. I'll go back and build the list above, over time.

Pre cleaning pictures can be revealing and a valuable tool:

I started as usual, by photographing undercarriage while drity looking for oil spot, grease above lube points (clue to servicing history), missing parts & bolts and any damage. Then do same with engine.

I found a very small spot on transfer case. This may just be a splash from something like and LOF or road crud. So once i've document/pictured I'll degrease, wash and keep close eye on for reappearance to ellimated (no leak) or pinpoint for repair. I've seen many misdiagnosed reports from even Toyota Dealer's on say a transmission leak, which only turns out to be flung grease from lubing propeller shafts & spiders. So washing and watching is second step in post inspection.
Transfer case pre wash.webp


I found a missing bolt and a few none OEM bolts holding on skid plate(s) shielding. I'm thinking as I pull these covers "I saw nothing in history to indicate shield would have needed pulling". Then I realized I did not see an oil filter hatch. This means Toyota took out one of my favorite things, the filter hatch. Then i realized why bolt issues. They have three or four different bolts for shielding up front. So no wonder the missing and none OEM bolts. Thanks Toyota engineers for making :bang: easy difficult. Really please put back the hatch, even Dealer shops will mess this up area up.

While shooting undercarriage I inspect shielding (skid plate(s) & #2), for signs of fluid leaks. This gives clues to backup service history, PPI and possible leaks.
Undershielding (10).webp
Above clue is below dipstick tube, more than a drop would produce from checking level.????

I mentioned early I saw something on dipstick tube. Looks like a dipstick tube O-ring leak, which I've easy way to spot now. I found this on every 06-07 100 series. I'll clean up and confirm, but I'm 90% sure on this one.

Could not a good picture (camera angle) from underside, where tube enters pan. But could see more build up oily grim by looking. This is often wrongly diagnosed as and oil pan leak in the 2UZ.

From Capillary action oil follows up the outside dipstick tube. Capillary action is why we check oil after warming engine and letting set for 5 minimum to 30 maximum minutes.
Oil dipstick (2).webp

Through PS fender wheel well it was easiest to see and shoot where oil tube enters the pan. Why a 200K miles 98-02 2UZ didn't leak here and newer years do, I can only guess.
Oil dipstick (3).webp

I found no other signs of leaks other than oil filter element housing was a bit oily. Could be from just not wiping off last time serviced or not sealed properly. I assume it's a filter element as I saw the oil sending unit connected to same component housing, but no external filter.

Why Toyota are you making oil filter service difficult WHY:(. This lack of oil filter hatch and independent encased filter goes on my list (for now), along with 2004 + removing of transmission dipstick, and long life coolant "of don't likes".

The dipstick was first noted during PPI as discoloration about half way down the dipstick tube. Kinda like a shadow seen with flashlight on it when no shadow was cast.
Oil dipstick (1) zoom.webp
 
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Congrats @2001LC - I've long admired and enjoyed your 100 series restoration threads so I'm excited to see you dive into the 200 series! My son is turning 16 later this year so he will soon be driving my Hundy so I've been on the fence of getting another 100 or going 200? It seems the lowish mileage '06 - '07 100's are often commanding a higher price than a similar mileage early 200? I know you track this market so I'm wondering if you're seeing the same thing - the early 200 series is actually a better value than the late 100 series right now?

Also, can you share what you've learned about the 200 suspension systems? We all know the 100 series AHC is problematic as it ages, but what about the 200?
Thank you for your kind words.

I too am very excited to have a 200 series restore project, and driving it has been very nice. To be cutting my teeth on a "clean 200 series", will be helpful for me to establish a factory correct baseline.

The 100 series with it's 2UZ has proven itself. The platform of the 100 was made to be serviced. It's very maintainable, but even unmaintained keeps ticking.

It's been said many times in mud. Buy the newest your budget allows. This is true for many reasons. As the capability and bells and whistle just keep improving. Some like the smaller 40 series for off road capability in narrow spot and it's simplicity. Some of these older series seem to be entering the realm of collectors series.

I can say, I've really enjoyed working on and driving the 06-07 with bells & whistles along with VVT-i of 100 series extra power. Where I've not much need for extra power, it's nice & fun to have. The extra bells & whistle are fun & cool as well, but increase maintenance as does the VVt (A.I, heads & intake). That said the 01-02, IMHO, was one of the most reliable and lowest cost to maintain of the series. But age and miles will take its toll on any vehicle. So time & ability for the DIYer or fitness/thickness of one's walet to maintain must be consider with cost of purchase.

Buyers must always do a good inspection to get a good idea of what the true cost will be over next year or two. I pray my threads are helpful in this respect, in what to look for and what may arises if nothing else. I'm pretty good at inspecting, but never don't find it all during PPI. I always find more during post inspection which is about 40 hours and even more during as actual work progresses.

For a young man (teenager) just starting out, I go 100 series for sure. The 100 will be a great vehicle for cutting his teeth on and very safe & reliable if properly PM. It is a legendary vehicle for so many reason, thats capable and great looking.

You are right the 06-07 with it's VVt is commanding a premin price. There is also a few 05 with factory VVT made after May of 05. In many cases they're commanding a higher price than a comparable or higher mileage 200 series. Mileage and condition weigh heavy on value, as does the power of the VVt.

The 07 is the rarest and most valuable for a few reasons IMHO:

1st) Newer carries higher value generally speaking in book value.

2st) It was last year 100 series made, some have or had many series of Land Cruiser and prefer last of each series. Some just wants newest. This put added demand the last of its kind. But they're only minor differences between the VVT line up of the 100 series that I know of.

3nd) 2007 had the least number of 100 series imported into the USA, making them the most difficult to find. 2011 had the least number of 200 series, which was about halve that of the 2007: Toyota Land Cruiser - Wikipedia

It's kind of like, why pay $40K for some old bottle of wine, many do!

Also of note:

It should also be noted a super clean low mileage 100 series, are getting more and more difficult to find. I only saw two with near as low miles as The Black Knight (06 OMG clean w/58K) in last six months. One is for sale now (01 w/1K miles) for somewhere around $150K.

The holy Grail of the 100 series is the 2007 Unicorn (No Nav);) What's that worth ... priceless to me.

As for the AHC.

I loved on 01LC no NAV without AHC. It was simple and cheaper to maintain than a w/NAV or w/AHC. But over last two years with this "hobbi of restoring" 100 series, I came to really like the AHC. It may not be suitable for heavy builds. In fact Christo recommended I pull the AHC from The Redbaron, which was being made mechanical sound for a third world country with lite off road use (not built), but I keep it stock.

The main cost of an AHC system that has been regular flushed and maintained properly is the globes. I've seen 300K miles on a 1998 LX470 poorly maintained still working ok with factory globes (9 hash marks or graduations) with decent ride feel. For light off road lifting with AHC in high is so cool, hooking up a trailer, self leveling, washing bottoms up H than L, loading cargo, get under to work on or inspect, setting feel of road (really sweet). IMHO the AHC is worth the cost of maintaining for a DD or lite off road stock 100 series.

From what I've read the 200 AHC is even more robust, but I've no idea of longevity or cost. I'm happy my first 200 series is a no AHC Land Cruiser fully loaded with options.

Here are a few more things I see in the 200 series i don't like.

In above posts you see some things I'm not crazy about in the 200 series. Stuff that wrenching on more difficult.

Here a few more;

1) The forward Propeller shaft lube point look very difficult to get at. With the added armor blocking easy access. This will cost me time and possible money for retooling. I can also see where many shop will just not lube these points. I'm sure I'll be seeing even less slung grease in this area from lack of lubing. IMO some shops will say "or sorry i forgot that spot" for the 1 in a 100 owner that even bothers to check.

2) Looks like a real pain to change gear lube at the transfer case. Toyota put some real nice armor here as well. Nice, but looks like 6 or more extra bolts to remove (pain) shielding, making a pain to flush.

Don't get me wrong I'm loving the 200 series, it's amazing:

Don't get me wrong the extra armor is great and needed. But seems to me the old engineers of the 100 series did have service and the mechanics in mind more so than the new ones of today. That just first impression!

I've a lot to learn about the 200 series. My guess is we've fewer PM items in schedule. This was a trend started around 2005, with the "cost of ownership cry" or new car sales tool. The 100 series is PM intensive, but will keep tick for near forever on original parts if keep up. Will the 200 series?

Here's a few pictures of my newest project:

I do really like the 200 series, even the looks has grown on me very quickly:
001.webp


This 2011 has so many cool feature I don't nowhere to begin, I find new stuff everyday. I also like the fact I've gotting into it's 4th year of production. It's just and old school belief, manufacture find issues of first year and correct and clean up by third year of production. My 2001 was 4th year, and sure was a sweet ride and trouble free.

I found the frame of the 200 series, well, "sexy" with it curves, bumps and cool lines. It looks very capable of taking a beating.
That may sound funny (sexy) but it's pretty cool under the covers.:rolleyes:
069.webp
076.webp



The list of likes of this 200 series, is growing by the day:

I find myself pulling the OM or FSM books a lot learning how to and what is. This rig is fully loaded with options. It's a pleasure to drive and handled great I my drive home across the continental divide on I-70.

The MPG seem really good, but most of my driver was coming from two mile high to the mile high city, only real ascent was Vail pass and Eisenhower tunnel.

Last night headed to PF Chang's for dinner in lite rain, when I notice wipers on, then speed changed as rain increased or decreased. So cool!

While cleaning I see a 100V outlet in the rear and a cooler in the consol, some cool stuff.

I also notice seats and carpet material seems a bit different, hopefully even tougher than 100 series.

I mention the beefed up aromed undercarriage, which has always been needed.

Even the spare tire crank eliminated that little bumper cap, shops' lose so often.

The third row may be a pian to remove, but the means it's secured is so much easier to use and stable.

The tool kit in lower rear deck is cool, and must have been idea take from mud members.;)

The list seem endless of cool stuff to me at this point, each day I find a new toy in the 200 series.:bounce:

The OM books are so thick I'll bet only one in million has read cover to cover. Gives a good idea of how many system these things have.

I can't say much about the suspension (KDSS) or how it works, yet.:hmm:
081.webp
011.webp
 
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@2001LC Thanks for the lengthy write up! What's your initial impression compared to the Black Knight - Exterior / Interior appeal, ride quality, desire to own?

Is there the equivalent Slee 100 series guide for the 200 series? Still can't find which models came with which suspension? Is there any LC/LX that came with a traditional coil over suspension without KDSS or AHC?
 
@2001LC Thanks for the lengthy write up! What's your initial impression compared to the Black Knight - Exterior / Interior appeal, ride quality, desire to own?

Is there the equivalent Slee 100 series guide for the 200 series? Still can't find which models came with which suspension? Is there any LC/LX that came with a traditional coil over suspension without KDSS or AHC?
Sorry for getting so lengthy, I know most will not read such a long post.

The Black Knight was/is a super sweet ride. On first test drive of the 200 series, I preferred the ride, feel of the seats and interior look of the The Black Knight. Note; I'm in my comfort zone in the 100 series, as you can understand after 14 years in one.

The 100 series with VVt has plenty of power, but the 200 series takes it over the top. So for those building heavy off road armor rig, loading with gear and family while pulling a trailer the 200 probably has power to spare. It just amazing MPG is rated the same.

I will say the 200 is really growing on me fast in every aspect, it's very cool.:love:

I've not checked with Slee.

Hope others will correct me here if need be.

The 200 LC is only offered with KDSS system, but at some point they may or have offered AHC as option. LX570 only comes with AHC.

I'm still working on getting a handle on difference in years and between LC & LX. Seem biggest change came in 2013 with bells and whistles. It's my understand power plant remained the same. That said I'd not be surprise to see difference with the 3UZ top end and change in transmission and gearing as I look deeper.

:steer:
 
Nice write up! Ever since they took the v8 out of the 4runner, this is really the only decent option for power in a 4x4. I may be on the hunt now.
 
Thanks All for the great information!
I've owned 100 series but not a 200 yet. I learned that 200 series have sealed bearings that don't need service whereas the 100 series needs regular repacking/replacement. That's good news (maintenance cost-wise). But I also learned that it would cost a lot more in case if the 200 series need to swap in a used engine (very rare case but could happen at very high mileage). The 3UR-FE sells for higher than the 2UZ and more labor involved. Also read from other threads that the starter location for 200 series is as bad as the 100's. Even though 2UZ requires timing belt service, the 3UR also needs components replacement that would have been while-in-there items during 100's t-belt job at every 100k miles. So the cost/concern for this part is about the same.

What about the following 100-series items (are they also of concern in higher mileage 200 series)? Would appreciate anyone's input.
  • Fragile heater-T's after 100k miles?
  • Expensive brake booster/master cylinder?
  • Is the 200's windshield replacement as complicated as the 100's (which can cause rust if not done the right way with OEM)?
  • Stuck sunroof costs a lot to repair?
  • Is upgrading the HVAC/stereo interface as difficult as the 02-07 100's?
  • The 100's torsion bar system is less costly to maintain compared to 200's coil spring/KDSS (?)
  • The SAI system in 200 can go bad just like the 06-07 100's (is that true?).
There can be more big ticket items to add.
Thanks!
 
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