Pre-03 nav delete how-to (3 Viewers)

[Unrulykid]

That’s what I’ve been trying to do. I’m familiar with terminating and pinning connectors. I just want to get an idea of what I’m looking at.

Thank you for the sheet

Please don’t forget that there are multiple grounds that can all terminate together to slightly simplify the process. If you miss a ground, something will not work.

Some on this site rave about the Solder-Seal connectors… not me.

I did mine the tried and true method… soldered each individual pair together and used heat shrink insulation with a heat gun. Do not forget to put the short piece of heat shrink onto the wire before you solder them together.

I used electrician’s wire markers to label each wire before starting. So that if something did not work, I could identify each wire for troubleshooting purposes.

You’ll want a good soldering iron, and a good solder sucker… the Home Depot solder sucker, well, not good.

Japanese company Engineer makes an excellent solder sucker with silicone nozzles… works every time as designed…
about $30 and well worth every penny.

I also bought a wire holding device off Amazon for use as 3rd and 4th hands… well worth the $12 investment!!!!

if you are detailed and methodical, you should do well.

 

[Sean81]

All, I would appreciate any ideas the mud community would have for the issue I'm having:

I'm currently at Yokota Air Base in Japan. My buddy and I both have 98 JDM Land Cruisers, mine is a LC and his is an LC Cygnus (LX 470). A few months ago I did the nav swap to manual controls on his truck and I thought all was well. Now that summer is here it turns out the AC is not getting cold.

1. Buddy said the AC worked before
2. The ac button illuminates and you can hear the compressor kick on/off when you toggle the button
3. Blower speed and mode changes are all working, all other buttons on the HVAC panel work. Clock and outside temp display work.
4. Rear AC is cold, the system seems to be properly charged with coolant
5. Switched his HVAC controls into my LC and it works fine in my car, mine has the same result in his car. Panel and controls seem to be good.
6. Temp control on hot is noticeably hotter on heat mode and gets cooler (but not cold) on cool setting, it appears to be somewhat working...
7. I've checked the connections over and over and it appears to be wired correctly
8. The "C12" connector is not a ground as others on this thread have mentioned. When I disconnect that PIN the AC button stops working completely.

Any ideas what would keep the AC from getting cold? Thanks!

 

[Unrulykid]

All, I would appreciate any ideas the mud community would have for the issue I'm having:

I'm currently at Yokota Air Base in Japan. My buddy and I both have 98 JDM Land Cruisers, mine is a LC and his is an LC Cygnus (LX 470). A few months ago I did the nav swap to manual controls on his truck and I thought all was well. Now that summer is here it turns out the AC is not getting cold.

1. Buddy said the AC worked before
2. The ac button illuminates and you can hear the compressor kick on/off when you toggle the button
3. Blower speed and mode changes are all working, all other buttons on the HVAC panel work. Clock and outside temp display work.
4. Rear AC is cold, the system seems to be properly charged with coolant
5. Switched his HVAC controls into my LC and it works fine in my car, mine has the same result in his car. Panel and controls seem to be good.
6. Temp control on hot is noticeably hotter on heat mode and gets cooler (but not cold) on cool setting, it appears to be somewhat working...
7. I've checked the connections over and over and it appears to be wired correctly
8. The "C12" connector is not a ground as others on this thread have mentioned. When I disconnect that PIN the AC button stops working completely.

Any ideas what would keep the AC from getting cold? Thanks!

If the rear AC blows cold, but the front AC does not…

Front evaporator issue?… Front TX valve ( expansion valve) could be plugged up, or the front evap core could be plugged… no air flow over the front evap core?

Just my first thoughts…

 

[Sean81]

If the rear AC blows cold, but the front AC does not…

Front evaporator issue?… Front TX valve ( expansion valve) could be plugged up, or the front evap core could be plugged… no air flow over the front evap core?

Just my first thoughts…

Appreciate the reply. I just can't help but think there is an issue with the electronics that control the AC versus the physical hardware. I had the truck running last night with front and rear air on and I checked under the hood, A/C line was freezing until it splits from front to rear. It seems the front evaporator just isn't getting the signal to let the refrigerant in. I opened air box behind the glove box and the coils look clean and blower is strong so airflow over the coils seems fine.

Any idea what signals control refrigerant into the evaporator coils? Is it the AC amplifier?

 

[Unrulykid]

Appreciate the reply. I just can't help but think there is an issue with the electronics that control the AC versus the physical hardware. I had the truck running last night with front and rear air on and I checked under the hood, A/C line was freezing until it splits from front to rear. It seems the front evaporator just isn't getting the signal to let the refrigerant in. I opened air box behind the glove box and the coils look clean and blower is strong so airflow over the coils seems fine.

Any idea what signals control refrigerant into the evaporator coils? Is it the AC amplifier?

That is a good question…

In most every common place automotive AC application, refrigerant flow through the evaporator coil is purely mechanical…
The AC pump runs and pumps refrigerant through the system… the high side liquid pumps through the TX valve and evaporates causing the cooling of the evap core.

The only electronic countermeasures involved is pressure differential… too much high side pressure would open the AC pump drive clutch if the evaporator were to freeze over.

I do not know of any electronically controlled differentiating valves incorporated into the 100 series Land Cruiser refrigeration system.

If the high side hard pipe is frosted all the way up to the front to rear diverter WYE fitting… it tells me that there is no flow of refrigerant into the front evaporator core.
Some obstruction is preventing the refrigerant from getting into the front evaporator core. I do not believe that there is a solenoid valve ahead of the expansion valve.
And I do not have an FSM to reference… But rather, just a lot of practical knowledge through trial and error, and working on these things.

I think the front evap core TX valve is plugged up…

anyone have an FSM that could shed light on this issue?

 

[Unrulykid]

That is a good question…

In most every common place automotive AC application, refrigerant flow through the evaporator coil is purely mechanical…
The AC pump runs and pumps refrigerant through the system… the high side liquid pumps through the TX valve and evaporates causing the cooling of the evap core.

The only electronic countermeasures involved is pressure differential… too much high side pressure would open the AC pump drive clutch if the evaporator were to freeze over.

I do not know of any electronically controlled differentiating valves incorporated into the 100 series Land Cruiser refrigeration system.

If the high side hard pipe is frosted all the way up to the front to rear diverter WYE fitting… it tells me that there is no flow of refrigerant into the front evaporator core.
Some obstruction is preventing the refrigerant from getting into the front evaporator core. I do not believe that there is a solenoid valve ahead of the expansion valve.
And I do not have an FSM to reference… But rather, just a lot of practical knowledge through trial and error, and working on these things.

I think the front evap core TX valve is plugged up…

anyone have an FSM that could shed light on this issue?

Correction…

The WYE pipe fitting is on the low side… that is refrigerant coming out of the evap core going back to the compressor.

I just popped the hood to look at mine… on the passenger side firewall, there are 2 pipes going into the evap core… 1 larger and 1 smaller.
The small pipe is the high side, refrigerant into the core. The larger is the low side, refrigerant coming out of the core.

I did not see any solenoid valves on either of these on my 2002 LX

Did you check the spyglass to see if there are bubbles in the refrigerant? Could be low on charge as well.
The spyglass is in front of the radiator on the driver side, just below the bumper level.

Also, make sure the auxiliary AC electric fan comes on when AC is engaged.

I think the front TX valve is plugged… not providing full flow.

 

[Sean81]

Correction…

The WYE pipe fitting is on the low side… that is refrigerant coming out of the evap core going back to the compressor.

I just popped the hood to look at mine… on the passenger side firewall, there are 2 pipes going into the evap core… 1 larger and 1 smaller.
The small pipe is the high side, refrigerant into the core. The larger is the low side, refrigerant coming out of the core.

I did not see any solenoid valves on either of these on my 2002 LX

Did you check the spyglass to see if there are bubbles in the refrigerant? Could be low on charge as well.
The spyglass is in front of the radiator on the driver side, just below the bumper level.

Also, make sure the auxiliary AC electric fan comes on when AC is engaged.

I think the front TX valve is plugged… not providing full flow.

Thank you Unruly! Appreciate you sharing your knowledge and I agree with your diagnosis. Based on your response I dug more into the service manual and found this youtube video and it confirms everything you said.



No bubbles in the spy glass. AC fan didn't run but I checked the plug and its not getting current and the resistance check of the motor showed a few ohms so I think its OK.

This issue looks to be unrelated to the nav delete, I'll start a new thread to document the fix once its resolved, I won't post here anymore about this issue.

 

[scrt80]

Just did this modification to my 2002 LC a few days ago without cutting and using pigtails. I ended up finding a LC panel without the pigtails and used new connectors. I pulled the wires/terminals from the old connectors and put them into the correct locations in the new connectors.

Most of the terminals were the same on the old connectors vs the new connectors but around half a dozen or so needed to be re-terminated with the correct terminal.

The connectors are TE Connectivity parts and I bought connectors A, B and D through Mouser using the manufacture part numbers. I couldn't find connector C in stock as a TE part so I ordered connector C through my dealership using Toyota PN.

Connector part numbers are:
A - 26 pin - TE Connectivity part # 917992-1 - Toyota PN 90980-11390
B - 16 pin - TE Connectivity part # 917981-1 - Toyota PN 90980-11391
D - 22 pin - TE Connectivity part # 917989-1 - Toyota PN 90980-11392
C - 12 pin - TE Connectivity part # 917975-1 - Toyota PN 90980-11408

I also ordered extra pins. The new connectors use two types of terminals. TE Connectivity 0.070 and 0.040 Multilock series terminals. I ordered 50 of each but only used a few of each.
0.040 Multilock Terminals - TE Connectivity Part # 175265-1
0.070 Multilock Terminals - TE Connectivity Part # 175269-1

Everything went well with the swap. Thanks to everyone which put in the hard work to identify each pin change and put together the pdf to make this pretty straightforward. If you go the same route as I did, I do recommend a proper crimper for the few terminals needed to be swapped. I used something like this with the correct jaw for open barrel type terminals.
View attachment 3211388
View attachment 3211390

Any chance you could try your magic at finding the female connectors? I’ve found the versions that require soldering to a circuit board but not on that can be connected to loose wiring. I figure if one could get their hands on the female connectors, they could build a custom harness and this conversion would almost be plug and play.

 

[CO470]

Hey guys, I'm in the middle of doing my nav delete and have a few questions.

My stock mark levinson amplifier is toast, How do I go about hooking everything up to an aftermarket amplifier and getting audio to work?

Also anyone in the Denver,CO area have a non-nav faceplate that I can use to test out all of my connections? The one I bought is toast and half the buttons don't work on it. Just wanna double check my work before I spend another 550 for a used ebay one.

Thanks!

 

[Haydogmc]

Hey guys, I'm in the middle of doing my nav delete and have a few questions.

My stock mark levinson amplifier is toast, How do I go about hooking everything up to an aftermarket amplifier and getting audio to work?

Also anyone in the Denver,CO area have a non-nav faceplate that I can use to test out all of my connections? The one I bought is toast and half the buttons don't work on it. Just wanna double check my work before I spend another 550 for a used ebay one.

Thanks!

You can bypass the amp using the aftermarket headunit, but that will require you to install new speakers as well. This is what I ended up doing after trying (and failing) to get my ML amp working with the aftermarket head unit. There are some solid threads on how to do this.

Half of my buttons on the non-nav bezel were toast as well, but if I pressed them enough times (or hard enough) I was able to get them to work intermittently which told me the wiring was correct but the button contacts were toast. I mailed my bezel to a guy on ebay and he replaced all the contacts and now everything works perfectly. Took about 10 days round trip to get it back. Search "98-02 LX470 Climate Button Replacement Service" on ebay and it should come up.

You're almost there!

 

[CO470]

You can bypass the amp using the aftermarket headunit, but that will require you to install new speakers as well. This is what I ended up doing after trying (and failing) to get my ML amp working with the aftermarket head unit. There are some solid threads on how to do this.

Half of my buttons on the non-nav bezel were toast as well, but if I pressed them enough times (or hard enough) I was able to get them to work intermittently which told me the wiring was correct but the button contacts were toast. I mailed my bezel to a guy on ebay and he replaced all the contacts and now everything works perfectly. Took about 10 days round trip to get it back. Search "98-02 LX470 Climate Button Replacement Service" on ebay and it should come up.

You're almost there!

The previous owner installed new speakers and has some adaptor/splitter things near where the amp wiring was. Ill probably pull a door panel off tomorrow to see what kind of speakers it has.

I soldered new buttons and had my climate buttons working for a few minutes then everything went out completely, I probably should have just sent it in because I think I fried it trying to do it myself.

 

[jsmiff20]

Can anyone please advise if the radio brackets from an LC will work in the LX470, i know the Bezels can be swapped between the 2 but curious about those radio brackets?

Also, I'm honing in on this one, its from an LC for my LX, it has everything I need except the "wood finish" doesn't match my LX and moreover the salvaged bezel looks haggard and peeling. Do you guys have any suggestions how I can wrap this, sand it and/or color it, at least black. I know this is a minor thing but my OCD will drive me crazy over it.

 

[Haydogmc]

Can anyone please advise if the radio brackets from an LC will work in the LX470, i know the Bezels can be swapped between the 2 but curious about those radio brackets?

Also, I'm honing in on this one, its from an LC for my LX, it has everything I need except the "wood finish" doesn't match my LX and moreover the salvaged bezel looks haggard and peeling. Do you guys have any suggestions how I can wrap this, sand it and/or color it, at least black. I know this is a minor thing but my OCD will drive me crazy over it. View attachment 3397682

The LC brackets will work with an aftermarket head unit. It's the LX nav brackets that will not. Can't help on the bezel restoration unfortunately...

 

[CO470]

Can anyone please advise if the radio brackets from an LC will work in the LX470, i know the Bezels can be swapped between the 2 but curious about those radio brackets?

Also, I'm honing in on this one, its from an LC for my LX, it has everything I need except the "wood finish" doesn't match my LX and moreover the salvaged bezel looks haggard and peeling. Do you guys have any suggestions how I can wrap this, sand it and/or color it, at least black. I know this is a minor thing but my OCD will drive me crazy over it. View attachment 3397682

I’m pretty sure you can just peel off the fake wood and it’s plain black underneath. I can go home tonight after work and try it and let you know the result because it doesn’t match the bright wood finish in my LX either.

 

[jsmiff20]

The LC brackets will work with an aftermarket head unit. It's the LX nav brackets that will not. Can't help on the bezel restoration unfortunately...

Im checking out an LX in the salvage yard very soon, if I find its a non-nav those brackets should be good, no?

 

[Roushman90]

Are the pinouts for the non-nav "digital buttons" vs "knobs" identical?

 

[Unrulykid]

Are the pinouts for the non-nav "digital buttons" vs "knobs" identical?

Yes… I believe the non-nav digital and knob versions have the same wiring harness and connectors

 

[Unrulykid]

 

[Roushman90]

View attachment 3430632

Thanks man, I've got the pinouts - just been digging through threads trying to find mention of the buttons vs. Knobs to confirm before I buy a 3-knob climate control unit.

 

[crobson]

Just did this modification to my 2002 LC a few days ago without cutting and using pigtails. I ended up finding a LC panel without the pigtails and used new connectors. I pulled the wires/terminals from the old connectors and put them into the correct locations in the new connectors.

Most of the terminals were the same on the old connectors vs the new connectors but around half a dozen or so needed to be re-terminated with the correct terminal.

The connectors are TE Connectivity parts and I bought connectors A, B and D through Mouser using the manufacture part numbers. I couldn't find connector C in stock as a TE part so I ordered connector C through my dealership using Toyota PN.

Connector part numbers are:
A - 26 pin - TE Connectivity part # 917992-1 - Toyota PN 90980-11390
B - 16 pin - TE Connectivity part # 917981-1 - Toyota PN 90980-11391
D - 22 pin - TE Connectivity part # 917989-1 - Toyota PN 90980-11392
C - 12 pin - TE Connectivity part # 917975-1 - Toyota PN 90980-11408

I also ordered extra pins. The new connectors use two types of terminals. TE Connectivity 0.070 and 0.040 Multilock series terminals. I ordered 50 of each but only used a few of each.
0.040 Multilock Terminals - TE Connectivity Part # 175265-1
0.070 Multilock Terminals - TE Connectivity Part # 175269-1

Everything went well with the swap. Thanks to everyone which put in the hard work to identify each pin change and put together the pdf to make this pretty straightforward. If you go the same route as I did, I do recommend a proper crimper for the few terminals needed to be swapped. I used something like this with the correct jaw for open barrel type terminals.
View attachment 3211388
View attachment 3211390

This deserves to be linked on Post #1.