Pre-03 nav delete how-to (2 Viewers)

[XAlent]

I've ordered one like @WTB has so I'm just waiting for it to arrive so I can get stuck into it
Has anyone removed the nav DVD player and amp and control box from under the seat? Does anything need to be left in place for the climate controls to work with the new head unit? I'm looking at putting a 5 channel amp under there

 

[atomsk]

I've ordered one like @WTB has so I'm just waiting for it to arrive so I can get stuck into it
Has anyone removed the nav DVD player and amp and control box from under the seat? Does anything need to be left in place for the climate controls to work with the new head unit? I'm looking at putting a 5 channel amp under there

Not sure what the Tesla-style head unit is like, but if it's like a typical receiver install, you don't need the factory nav or amp system under the passenger seat. I converted from a nav to non-nav unit and did a new Sony receiver and JL Audio amp mounted in the factory nav/amp location.

 

[XAlent]

Not sure what the Tesla-style head unit is like, but if it's like a typical receiver install, you don't need the factory nav or amp system under the passenger seat. I converted from a nav to non-nav unit and did a new Sony receiver and JL Audio amp mounted in the factory nav/amp location.

Sounds good. I'll make a start at pulling it all out then

 

[atomsk]

Sounds good. I'll make a start at pulling it all out then

The mounting location is a bit awkward. I believe there are two sets of brackets (one for each factory unit in place) and I reinstalled one of them so that I could make a somewhat flat shelf to mount the amp. I'll fab up a proper bracket eventually, but for now, it's a piece of plywood mounted to a factory bracket and the amp screwed to the plywood.

 

[XAlent]

The mounting location is a bit awkward. I believe there are two sets of brackets (one for each factory unit in place) and I reinstalled one of them so that I could make a somewhat flat shelf to mount the amp. I'll fab up a proper bracket eventually, but for now, it's a piece of plywood mounted to a factory bracket and the amp screwed to the plywood.

I've had a look under there. It seems like the dvd player has the brackets as part of it and the amp and controller are then bolted to that so shouldn't be too hard to come up with something
I'll also look at removing the cd stacker and replacing the console box with a non-cd one to free up a bit more room

 

[atomsk]

I've had a look under there. It seems like the dvd player has the brackets as part of it and the amp and controller are then bolted to that so shouldn't be too hard to come up with something
I'll also look at removing the cd stacker and replacing the console box with a non-cd one to free up a bit more room

Yeah, I believe that the DVD player brackets are bolted to the body on one side (toward the front of the vehicle), and to another bracket on the other (toward the rear). I kept the bracket that DVD bracket was bolted to. It helped create a level shelf to lay the plywood on. A bit weird to describe. Let me know if you need me to get you photos.

 

[WTB]

Not sure what the Tesla-style head unit is like, but if it's like a typical receiver install, you don't need the factory nav or amp system under the passenger seat. I converted from a nav to non-nav unit and did a new Sony receiver and JL Audio amp mounted in the factory nav/amp location.

I removed my factory nav control module after installing the screen and it didn't affect anything. I doubt removing the six-disc would affect anything either. I will be installing a Midland MXT275 in the six-disc location.

 

[atomsk]

I should add that I removed my 6-disc as well. My initial plan was to replace the console unit with one that didn't have a disc changer so I can have that space back, but I think I'll add comms radio into the slot when I finally get one.

 

[XAlent]

Nav system all out now. And I thought some may like to see what the JDM nav screen looked like. A little different with the temp display and control at the top, buttons on the rhs of the screen albeit in Japanese and the different tape deck including TV selection button. My kids enjoyed pressing random nav buttons and having it talk to them in Japanese

 

[XAlent]

My unit arrived today but only one plug from the car matches the unit. And there are two plugs on the unit that match the same plug so I'm going to have to chat with my Chinese friends and see if they have a solution It doesn't come with any instructions so that's a great help

 

[JaromT]

Make sure you see post #118 in this thread to see what you need to do when you remove the navigation module. If you do nothing you will lose sound in your driver's side door speaker.

 

[Tompet]

I have after a long warm-up decided to make the conversion from my navi LC100 - 2001 to a non-navi 3 knob version, following the sheet pinout that brave pioneers in this forum have made. But so far - nothing works at all !!!
I have followed the updated pinout and all the cables that where on the car, where i sourced the knobs and taills, are conneced.
But - there are some pins missing ( see photo - pins with minus sign) compared to the updated pinout pdf, but is that really enough for it all not to work ?
I got the old knobs and tails together, so i think it would be peculiar, if there are suddenly missing som pins.

Anyone have en idea whats wrong ?

 

[Tompet]

I have after a long warm-up decided to make the conversion from my navi LC100 - 2001 to a non-navi 3 knob version, following the sheet pinout that brave pioneers in this forum have made. But so far - nothing works at all !!!
I have followed the updated pinout and all the cables that where on the car, where i sourced the knobs and taills, are conneced.
But - there are some pins missing ( see photo - pins with minus sign) compared to the updated pinout pdf, but is that really enough for it all not to work ?
I got the old knobs and tails together, so i think it would be peculiar, if there are suddenly missing som pins.

Anyone have en idea whats wrong ?

View attachment 3231789

View attachment 3231790

 

[zedZed]

@WTB @XAlent someone posted a video of Plug-n-Play unit from a company named T'yes in FB group, although it's for the 2003 model the company also has 1998-2002 model. Here's the installed video of the 2003 model >> 20230131_202416.mp4 - https://www.dropbox.com/s/e8oh4o5ei5x7u3r/20230131_202416.mp4?dl=0

And here's the product page for the 1998-2002 Nav replace model: Lexus LX470 J100 (1998-2003) - https://teyes.com.au/collections/lexus/products/lexus-lx470-j100-1998-2003?fbclid=IwAR1X_L9-OVPtCAm2RBo2IVRjiRObWbcTmObTrEZ6xDqWON7lrlkNrIPhXjc&shpxid=e814a32f-5301-4f13-945a-68b21c258e76

Still hoping there's a workable Plug-n-Play too, else will bite the bullet and start extracting and building new pigtails

 

[XAlent]

Thanks for that @zedZed
Looking at it though I think it still has the same plugs for the US model
I'm not having much luck finding the right wires I need. I think it must be the shielded pairs in the loom being canbus but don't really want to go hooking up toi them in case I either damage the unit or damage the canbus system in the Cruiser
I don't hold much hope for my Chinese friends having a solution either

 

[Brino1983]

I came across a post in a FB group recently of a guy who had purchased a Kenwood stereo that was plug n play with is his 01 With a ML stereo and nav. I want to say it was $1500 or something. I can’t track down the post now. If I find it I’ll post it in here.

 

[silverg]

Can't thank you guys enough that got this started and have kept it going with guidance and input @primeral @TXSunDevil

My son (21 yo) completed removing the pins from the old connectors and installing in new connectors from Mouser (thanks @ruifrsilva ) on our 2001 LC. He struggled at first with the pin extraction because I don't think I provided the proper tool, but once he figured out a method with the tool he had it went smoothly. The crimper that was suggested for attaching the new pins gave him a fit. Couldn't get a good grab on both the exposed wire and the sheathing. Had to manipulate with needle nose to get the pins to seat all the way in the connector.

I completed a new excel file for those doing the repin versus getting a bezel with pigtails that I'd like to post once I figure out how.

Clock buttons on new bezel aren't working and the mirror buttons aren't working. He is going to check the wiring on the mirrors.

Plan to install an Alpine ilx-507 for the wireless Carplay. What I am unclear on now is what I need if we plan to use the existing JBL amp. I ordered the metra 70-8113. Reading back through the thread, there is a lot about LX and ML that is throwing me. I want to retain the antenna up/down and be able to play video while in motion.

 

[PNIT5000]

All black looks neat, but good luck with your search!

I'm actually looking for a RHD center bezel with the hazard and center diff switch on the right hand side, if anyone knows how to source one. The blank on the right hand is where I have my magnetic phone mount and I'd like my phone closer to me.

Has anyone used the RHD successfully for this Nav-delete? Any issues with RHD pigtail(wiring harness?

 

[Haydogmc]

Can't thank you guys enough that got this started and have kept it going with guidance and input @primeral @TXSunDevil

My son (21 yo) completed removing the pins from the old connectors and installing in new connectors from Mouser (thanks @ruifrsilva ) on our 2001 LC. He struggled at first with the pin extraction because I don't think I provided the proper tool, but once he figured out a method with the tool he had it went smoothly. The crimper that was suggested for attaching the new pins gave him a fit. Couldn't get a good grab on both the exposed wire and the sheathing. Had to manipulate with needle nose to get the pins to seat all the way in the connector.

I completed a new excel file for those doing the repin versus getting a bezel with pigtails that I'd like to post once I figure out how.

Clock buttons on new bezel aren't working and the mirror buttons aren't working. He is going to check the wiring on the mirrors.

Plan to install an Alpine ilx-507 for the wireless Carplay. What I am unclear on now is what I need if we plan to use the existing JBL amp. I ordered the metra 70-8113. Reading back through the thread, there is a lot about LX and ML that is throwing me. I want to retain the antenna up/down and be able to play video while in motion.

Awesome job! Definitely interested in the excel file. I have been contemplating this project for months but have not been able to find pigtails.

When you say 'mirror buttons' do you mean the mirror button to the left of the steering wheel (on a LHD) that folds the mirrors in and out?

 

[Haydogmc]

Just did this modification to my 2002 LC a few days ago without cutting and using pigtails. I ended up finding a LC panel without the pigtails and used new connectors. I pulled the wires/terminals from the old connectors and put them into the correct locations in the new connectors.

Most of the terminals were the same on the old connectors vs the new connectors but around half a dozen or so needed to be re-terminated with the correct terminal.

The connectors are TE Connectivity parts and I bought connectors A, B and D through Mouser using the manufacture part numbers. I couldn't find connector C in stock as a TE part so I ordered connector C through my dealership using Toyota PN.

Connector part numbers are:
A - 26 pin - TE Connectivity part # 917992-1 - Toyota PN 90980-11390
B - 16 pin - TE Connectivity part # 917981-1 - Toyota PN 90980-11391
D - 22 pin - TE Connectivity part # 917989-1 - Toyota PN 90980-11392
C - 12 pin - TE Connectivity part # 917975-1 - Toyota PN 90980-11408

I also ordered extra pins. The new connectors use two types of terminals. TE Connectivity 0.070 and 0.040 Multilock series terminals. I ordered 50 of each but only used a few of each.
0.040 Multilock Terminals - TE Connectivity Part # 175265-1
0.070 Multilock Terminals - TE Connectivity Part # 175269-1

Everything went well with the swap. Thanks to everyone which put in the hard work to identify each pin change and put together the pdf to make this pretty straightforward. If you go the same route as I did, I do recommend a proper crimper for the few terminals needed to be swapped. I used something like this with the correct jaw for open barrel type terminals.
View attachment 3211388
View attachment 3211390

Thank you for pioneering this method! Planning on giving this a shot soon. Just obtained a non-nav bezel and ordered the connectors in your post. How were you able to determine which terminals needed to be swapped out with either the 0.070 or 0.040 terminals (and which of those two options to use)?