I'm in the process of the rebuild, but need some help. I've got the 2 nuts, suction hose, and high pressure hose off that the FSM indicates, but it's still not coming off. Any ideas? Thanks.
Power steering pump rebuild question
- Thread starter Safado
- Start date
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Yup, your obviously muscle inhibited.
Just breaking balls, it should be free to come out, the O-ring might be stuck in there pretty good.
Just breaking balls, it should be free to come out, the O-ring might be stuck in there pretty good.
When you get it apart post how you did it as I need to rebuilt mine too.
Why doesn't the rebuild kit include bearings? There is bearings in there right? Can/should they be replaced?
Why doesn't the rebuild kit include bearings? There is bearings in there right? Can/should they be replaced?
The FSM covers it quite well. The bearing and other parts are replace as needed. As I found out the cost of the seal kit plus a few of those items came close to the price of new.
I wounder how many miles before the bearings need to be replaced?
Just another thought. You did remove the nuts on the back side didn't you? Toyota used studs on the timing cover. The studs actually pass through it. The pump slides over them in the rear and nuts are used to hold it on. The fronts are used the belt tensioner I think.
- Thread starter
- #7
Rick, I got the 2 nuts off the back of the PS pump, those are the two I was talking about in my initial post...are there any others? As far as muscles go...I just wasn't that confident that what I was doing was correct. Even at that, I was coming at it from the top and bouncing the truck up and down trying to get that thing off. I even decided to take the oil filter out to give myself somemore room...talk about another PITA. Do ther gears keep it locked in place? Should it have some wiggle room to move back and forth, or is it just straight back at this point?
Just straight back dude. I worked it from underneath. As long as you got the correct nuts off (not that I know of any more) then it should come right out.
I've attached a pic of my old pump so you can be sure you got the correct nuts.
I've attached a pic of my old pump so you can be sure you got the correct nuts.
Safado, I will try and get mine off.
I will let you know what happens.
I will let you know what happens.
Rain is on the way. Can't do the pump rebuild today.
- Thread starter
- #11
Well, here's the two that I've removed...so I guess I've got them all off and just need to take the smack to it. We'll see how it goes tomorrow.
Kurt,
The pump should come off with not much effort with the indicated fasteners removed. Perhaps you have more rust than most.
The pump should come off with not much effort with the indicated fasteners removed. Perhaps you have more rust than most.
Tap it with a rubber mallet. It should come right off.
C-dan, it was Safado who couldn't get the pump off 
I quit do to rain :'(
I looked and there seems to be no rust on my pump
I quit do to rain :'(
I looked and there seems to be no rust on my pump
- Thread starter
- #15
Power steering pump rebuild questions...Continued
So I took the smack to it and popped it off using a soft shovel handle. The reason that it was stuck was apparent once removed. The PO seems to have been in there before and used silicone or some other Make-A-Gasget type material in conjunction with the big orange seal. There's a notch apparently ground out of the side of the PS pump housing. I have no idea if this is normal or not, but it doesn't seem to be a "nice" factory groove. More like someone tool a small grinder blade to it. The picture below better illustrates the problem he was trying to fix. Question is...Is this normal? or some sort of Upgraded feature that allows the pump to blow that seal easier in case of failure? The reason I ask is that it just seems totally foreign to have a grinder around that area of the pump, and to have "accidentally" cut that deep of a groove.
Is this fixable with that Make-A-Gasget type stuff or is it too high pressure? What does a replacement housing cost?
On a brigher note, I did find two other seals that were shot...hopefully all this work we be worth something in the end. BTW...if you follow the FSM word for word, you'll forget a couple seals and the final snap ring. I caught the two seals, but had the hole thing back together before I noticed the snap ring sitting on my bench and had to pull the gears off again.
Thanks again.
So I took the smack to it and popped it off using a soft shovel handle. The reason that it was stuck was apparent once removed. The PO seems to have been in there before and used silicone or some other Make-A-Gasget type material in conjunction with the big orange seal. There's a notch apparently ground out of the side of the PS pump housing. I have no idea if this is normal or not, but it doesn't seem to be a "nice" factory groove. More like someone tool a small grinder blade to it. The picture below better illustrates the problem he was trying to fix. Question is...Is this normal? or some sort of Upgraded feature that allows the pump to blow that seal easier in case of failure? The reason I ask is that it just seems totally foreign to have a grinder around that area of the pump, and to have "accidentally" cut that deep of a groove.
Is this fixable with that Make-A-Gasget type stuff or is it too high pressure? What does a replacement housing cost?
On a brigher note, I did find two other seals that were shot...hopefully all this work we be worth something in the end. BTW...if you follow the FSM word for word, you'll forget a couple seals and the final snap ring. I caught the two seals, but had the hole thing back together before I noticed the snap ring sitting on my bench and had to pull the gears off again.
Thanks again.
Unfortunately I'm not at home or I could check. The pump in the photo is shot do to mechanical blindness. If you want I can have it removed from the trash as the housing is fine and your guts could be transplanted into it to make a good pump.
Let me know soon as I'm not sure when the trash goes out, possibly tomorrow.
EDIT: my wife just dug it out of the bottom of a trash barrel, what a girl
Let me know soon as I'm not sure when the trash goes out, possibly tomorrow.
EDIT: my wife just dug it out of the bottom of a trash barrel, what a girl
- Thread starter
- #17
Thanks Rick
and make sure to thank the
for me too.
So do you think mine is shot, or were you saying that yours was shot? I picked up some Permatex tonight before Checker closed. Do you think that could make a good enough seal?
So what happened to your PS pump? Let me know what you need me to do. Thanks.
and make sure to thank the
for me too. So do you think mine is shot, or were you saying that yours was shot? I picked up some Permatex tonight before Checker closed. Do you think that could make a good enough seal?
So what happened to your PS pump? Let me know what you need me to do. Thanks.
Mine is shot! While doing the pump rebuild I was waiting on some prescription glasses for close up work. Well, I put 4 of the pump vanes in backwards from lack of sight. WHile it didn't show up immediately a whine persued. I did (after getting glasses) find the error and corrected it. The whine subsided but was still there because of some damage done to the pump's innards. So I replaced the whole pump.
I won't be able to look at the housing for you until the end of the week as I'm in NJ right now. But if you housing is damaged them theoretically you could take your guts and put them in my housing to have a single good pump. From the pick I'd think yours would be fine even without some additional sealant. But I can't be 100% on that.
Didn't know if CDan had one on the self to look at for you as I might have gotten his last one.
I won't be able to look at the housing for you until the end of the week as I'm in NJ right now. But if you housing is damaged them theoretically you could take your guts and put them in my housing to have a single good pump. From the pick I'd think yours would be fine even without some additional sealant. But I can't be 100% on that.
Didn't know if CDan had one on the self to look at for you as I might have gotten his last one.
semlin
curmudgeon
I am approaching this task shortly and reading this with great interest. Can anyone provide a banana rating and a time estimate?
- Thread starter
- #20
Rick,
I too noticed that the FSM stated to put the rounded edge facing out and the flat edge inward, but I've got 20/20 or better and couldn't see a difference in either edge. Is the difference supposed to be huge? I tried to take the measurements as best as I could, but didn't have a digital micrometer and had decided just to put it all back to gether as best as possible.
Semlin. It wasn't really that hard at all...a little time consuming for the first time through...but nothing that difficult at all if you have an FSM. Besides the standard tools, you will need a gear puller, a sturdy set of snap ring pliers (I broke the teeth off of two before finding a pair that were thicker), and a few larger sockets for removal and install. If you want to be able to check all of the measurements, you'll need a digital micrometer with a .00X accuracy or better, and a "feeler gauge" for step 2 of replacement. I also use an 11/16 12 sided socket to get the gear lock nut off. The FSM if followed in detail forgets to mention a few things:
7.c (removal) Remove the O-ring from the inside of the front side plate.
4.b cont. (assembly) and the new O-ring on the inside.
8.b. cont (assembly) add the new O-ring.
I too noticed that the FSM stated to put the rounded edge facing out and the flat edge inward, but I've got 20/20 or better and couldn't see a difference in either edge. Is the difference supposed to be huge? I tried to take the measurements as best as I could, but didn't have a digital micrometer and had decided just to put it all back to gether as best as possible.
Semlin. It wasn't really that hard at all...a little time consuming for the first time through...but nothing that difficult at all if you have an FSM. Besides the standard tools, you will need a gear puller, a sturdy set of snap ring pliers (I broke the teeth off of two before finding a pair that were thicker), and a few larger sockets for removal and install. If you want to be able to check all of the measurements, you'll need a digital micrometer with a .00X accuracy or better, and a "feeler gauge" for step 2 of replacement. I also use an 11/16 12 sided socket to get the gear lock nut off. The FSM if followed in detail forgets to mention a few things:
7.c (removal) Remove the O-ring from the inside of the front side plate.
4.b cont. (assembly) and the new O-ring on the inside.
8.b. cont (assembly) add the new O-ring.
