Power steering Hose Part Number Help (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Mar 19, 2017
Threads
48
Messages
1,132
Location
OC, CA
Hi Everyone,

I can't find the part number to this hose, any help? 2005 lx470
There seems to be a leak here after I did my alternator install I may have moved these around and caused a leak. I'm looking to replace with new hose and clamp.
Capture.PNG
 
I think I found it. The part number is 4441060593 , but it's not just the highlighted part; it's the entire lower tube set. I'm not sure what to do since they don't sell those clamps, and the tube set is pretty expensive.
 
Well, if all you need is that rubber hose and everything else is solid then you could look at Sunsong 3403598 and just rob the rubber hose out of it. Go to RockAuto and look up your LX and this might be an option.
 
Well, if all you need is that rubber hose and everything else is solid then you could look at Sunsong 3403598 and just rob the rubber hose out of it. Go to RockAuto and look up your LX and this might be an option.

Thank you so much i didnt know about this part. This is much cheaper i might just swap the whole thing.
 
Thank you so much i didnt know about this part. This is much cheaper i might just swap the whole thing.
Yeah, like I said if your OEM metal lines are good and all you need is the rubber hose I would keep your OEM stuff. I don’t know how good these Sunsong metal lines are. Good luck!
 
@Biga27110 That hose is the Low pressure side. You can use 3/8" (9.5mm) transmission cooler hose as a substitute. The original hose is 10mm and so it'll be a tight fit but will work. The existing hose clamps might be too large and so you'll need appropriate hose clamps (preferably constant tension type).
 
That’s usually an assembly part together with the rubber hose as that is press-fitted/crimped.
 
The press-fitted clamps are on the High Pressure side. This is the one the OP needs...
1738517482749.png
 
@Biga27110 That hose is the Low pressure side. You can use 3/8" (9.5mm) transmission cooler hose as a substitute. The original hose is 10mm and so it'll be a tight fit but will work. The existing hose clamps might be too large and so you'll need appropriate hose clamps (preferably constant tension type).

Thank you! Im going to try this before buying the entire assembly.

The press-fitted clamps are on the High Pressure side. This is the one the OP needs...
View attachment 3830011
That is the offending piece.
 
Be sure to use transmission cooler hose, not fuel hose. Advance Auto sells it bulk, last I knew.
 
For those seeing this, a lot of us have used the Sunsong power steering lines with great success. This is a part that is hard to justify OEM prices on, and the Sunsong has held up great for 50k miles so far for me.
 
For those seeing this, a lot of us have used the Sunsong power steering lines with great success. This is a part that is hard to justify OEM prices on, and the Sunsong has held up great for 50k miles so far for me.

This is great news! Was the installation hard? Seems like we have to remove the oil filter to get access? Does it come with its own bolt and washer?
 
This is great news! Was the installation hard? Seems like we have to remove the oil filter to get access? Does it come with its own bolt and washer?
I replaced the hoses when I replaced the steering rack, so I honestly don't remember.
 
This is great news! Was the installation hard? Seems like we have to remove the oil filter to get access? Does it come with its own bolt and washer?
IMG_7813.jpeg

It’s going to be a tight space for sure. Practical way is to remove the oil cooler housing.
IMG_7794.jpeg

This photo was possible because the oil cooler was out.
 
If rack & pinion, power steering, high pressure line and or low pressure line, weeping. I've been using Sunsong. Which can be purchased as a set or just HP side or LP side.

These aftermarket R&P PS HP lines, can be difficult to thread in banjo bolt. Due to inaccurate bends in hard line, misagling banjo bolt to capture threads in pinion. So I take the time to re-bend best I can and very very carefully thread in banjo bolt by hand. Before even routing the line.

As with any nut or bolt. I never use a wrench, to drive in. I always use a torque wrench, to torque down, once nut or bolt all the way in/down by hand..

The Sunsong, as with all aftermarket R&P PS HP lines i've seen. Do not come with; idle-up control valve. The OEM's do come with. So we must swap over the idle up control with these aftermarkets'. I add, a tiny bit of thread sealer (FIPG 103 oil) to idle up control valve threads. Note: We do not have a torque spec that I yet found.
I install idle up control valve. After HP banjo torqued down on vane and vane torqued to engine. So LP line, held for me by Vane. I tighten with more force than I'm comfortable with (fear I'll break). I do this as a last step in the service, to be fast at checking for leaks once engine running and PS fluid bleed. So, if I need to tighten more to stop leak, my thread sealer (FIPG 102) hasn't had time to set.


Steering leaks (1).JPEG
Steering rack (3).JPEG


Steering  (10).JPEG

When just LP rubber hose weeping. I use 3/8" A/T cooler hose. If a thick wall ( larger OD), the factory clamps are reused (I like best). If wall thinner (smaller OD) than factory hose. I use all stainless steel fuel line hose clamps. They wrap hose applying pressure evenly around hose without biting into hose.
Bushings (3).JPEG
 
To add, it made the loosening and retightening process for me using a 3/8” drive 17mm crowfoot flare nut wrench.
 
View attachment 3831340
It’s going to be a tight space for sure. Practical way is to remove the oil cooler housing.
View attachment 3831341
This photo was possible because the oil cooler was out.
Thank you, removing the oil cooler makes sense.

If rack & pinion, power steering, high pressure line and or low pressure line, weeping. I've been using Sunsong. Which can be purchased as a set or just HP side or LP side.

These aftermarket R&P PS HP lines, can be difficult to thread in banjo bolt. Due to inaccurate bends in hard line, misagling banjo bolt to capture threads in pinion. So I take the time to re-bend best I can and very very carefully thread in banjo bolt by hand. Before even routing the line.

As with any nut or bolt. I never use a wrench, to drive in. I always use a torque wrench, to torque down, once nut or bolt all the way in/down by hand..

The Sunsong, as with all aftermarket R&P PS HP lines i've seen. Do not come with; idle-up control valve. The OEM's do come with. So we must swap over the idle up control with these aftermarkets'. I add, a tiny bit of thread sealer (FIPG 103 oil) to idle up control valve threads. Note: We do not have a torque spec that I yet found.
I install idle up control valve. After HP banjo torqued down on vane and vane torqued to engine. So LP line, held for me by Vane. I tighten with more force than I'm comfortable with (fear I'll break). I do this as a last step in the service, to be fast at checking for leaks once engine running and PS fluid bleed. So, if I need to tighten more to stop leak, my thread sealer (FIPG 102) hasn't had time to set.


View attachment 3831489View attachment 3831491

View attachment 3831488
When just LP rubber hose weeping. I use 3/8" A/T cooler hose. If a thick wall ( larger OD), the factory clamps are reused (I like best). If wall thinner (smaller OD) than factory hose. I use all stainless steel fuel line hose clamps. They wrap hose applying pressure evenly around hose without biting into hose.
View attachment 3831485
Where is the idle up control valve. Im not familiar with this. Thank you!
 
I use "flare nut socket", on PS LP flare nut.

Idle up control valve: Is on PS vane (power steering pump) side of HP line. It has two vacuum lines attached to it.
009.JPG


Hoses 03-05.jpg

024 (2).JPG
Steering  (15).JPEG

Steering  (17).JPEG
Steering  (20).JPEG



 
Thank you, removing the oil cooler makes sense.


Where is the idle up control valve. Im not familiar with this. Thank you!
You don't need to remove the oil cooler to replace the line, but the filter, yes. Some folks remove the oil cooler when they replace the steering rack, but its much easier to undo the driver side engine mount and jack up the side of the engine to get the necessary clearance.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom