Power Steering Gearbox Reseal (3 Viewers)

[frankenyota]

Great write up on the gearbox rebuild, those teflon seals are a nightmare.
Smoothed out the sharp edges in the box so the teflon ring was easier to install but still caused a lot of swearing.
If i did it again i would probably leave the old teflon ring and oring on as it seems the new oring pushes the teflon ring out more, giving it a tighter fit.
The sector shaft seal should be installed with the spring to the outside to prevent ingress of dirt to stop rust on the sector shaft and not as normal seal where as the spring would face the oil. This seal is only a dust seal.

 

[Coryde4n]

Got the seal kit in. Made by Gates in Denver, CO. Price was about $26 plus shipping. If the heat doesn't chase me out of the garage tomorrow hopefully I can put some time towards putting things back together.

The kit has a pretty good diagram of where the seals go.

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I see a different part number at Rockauto than the one you posted, though they also have the one you posted. Maybe these fit a little better? Wondering which kit to trust.

 

[UZJ100LC]

is there a difference between a reseal and a rebuild? I have both a leak and a lot of play in mine

 

[Swampcruiser45]

is there a difference between a reseal and a rebuild? I have both a leak and a lot of play in mine

The reseal kit will stop the leak and tighten the box back, but there's an adjustment screw to tack slack or play out of the steering

 

[cps432]

There’s a certain point where it wears out enough and you can’t adjust it. Mine is at that point. I sealed it and it doesn’t leak. It tightened up some but there’s still too much slop. Even the alignment shop couldn’t do anything with it. Taking it apart and putting it back together without tearing the nylon seals is a bit of a PITA as well as the BBs in the worm gear. Oh yeah and then resetting the preload. It’s not for the faint of heart but it can be done. But like I said, if it’s worn out it’s worn out.

 

[Swampcruiser45]

I rebuilt mine because was leaking really bad. Use pick hooks to remove o rings. Getting the bearings back in was a real chore but I got it. I left the old Teflon rings on because the new ones were too large. I can't even explain what PRELOAD is. I put everything back together and installed, then adjusted the slack. I've driven it every where without an issue. I found good advice on some of these forums and some get way too technical.

 

[Taylorious]

Watched this thread for a few years, but I'm going to tackle my own during my summer break.

Got a FJ6X box in my garage after putting a FZJ on my truck, and now I've got a little solid axle Toyota pickup that could use a power-steering swap.... as such; I can't vacillate any more on rebuilding the ol' leaky box.

I'll be sure to post photos. Probably starting with the gates kit and seeing what I encounter as I dig in.

Thanks for paving the way gents.
@joebattle1 wanna have a box rebuild party?

 

[cps432]

Watched this thread for a few years, but I'm going to tackle my own during my summer break.

Got a FJ6X box in my garage after putting a FZJ on my truck, and now I've got a little solid axle Toyota pickup that could use a power-steering swap.... as such; I can't vacillate any more on rebuilding the ol' leaky box.

I'll be sure to post photos. Probably starting with the gates kit and seeing what I encounter as I dig in.

Thanks for paving the way gents.
@joebattle1 wanna have a box rebuild party?

Use some kind of compression clamp when you’re installing the worm gear back into the housing. It’s very easy to catch the fresh nylon seal on the housing and tear it up. Ask me how I know… take it easy when you’re doing that part and don’t rush or get frustrated. If something doesn’t want to go it’s probably because the seal is catching on the cast iron. The gates seals are a little larger than the OEM ones I believe. Not by much. But enough to cause some headaches. I considered getting OEM seals for the worm gear. At $11 a piece I just decided to go with the gates. Tore up the first kit trying to force things together. Just be easy and mindful.

 

[Taylorious]

... It’s very easy to catch the fresh nylon seal on the housing and tear it up. … take it easy when you’re doing that part and don’t rush or get frustrated...

Excellent advice, I'll make sure to use that compressor. Definitely plan to play around with icing/heating on the Gates as needed, and get the 'yota ones to have JuSt InCaSe.

Tore up the first kit trying to force things together. Just be easy and mindful.

....I prolly will too. Hah.

 

[CruiserTrash]

Adding to this really great existing thread instead of starting a new one. My 60 is a 1982, so the early type with the square bolt pattern. I got a spare box from a junkyard truck and got it torn down this week.

What I’m curious about are these markings I found inside. Looks like it was rebuilt before I’m guessing. Any idea what the markings mean?

 

[CruiserTrash]

Ok, I’m gonna keep going with my reseal job here. Maybe it helps somebody down the road. Tagging @Hokie LX since he’s doing this right now too. Maybe we can compare notes.

I talked to Hokie and he’s got engravings on the parts above as well so maybe that’s something from the factory, maybe clearances or tolerances or something. I cleaned up the shaft last night and it has some pitting at the bottom. I hit it gently with 400 & 800 grit and it looks better. I still might skim coat some JB Weld on and sand it back to fill the pits - I think there’s a dust seal right there.

Splines are straight

This adjustment bolt on top of the shaft and the threaded piece it fits into are both still available from Toyota so I bought them. No clue how to remove the old ones though. The threaded outer piece is a hex on the inner diameter, but you can’t get a tool on it because of the adjuster bolt. You can’t thread the adjuster bolt out because of the head that sits inside. Open to advice on this one. Maybe I’ll make a tool for it.

My truck is an 82 and I believe this pump came off an 81, so things aren’t exactly as they’re shown in the manual. I don’t have a “power piston & spring” for starters. Second, at the bottom of the side cover the manual shows a bit flat washer. I have that, but on top of the washer is a flat needle bearing washer. I cleaned it, applied some light assembly lube and stuck it back in.

I’m missing one of the ball bearings (only 43 present) so I ordered some. They only come in packs of 100 so I’ll have plenty extra, heck maybe I replace them all. Grade 25 chrome steel, Rockwell 67. Seems like good stuff. Or maybe the very early boxes only had 43 BBs to begin with. Everything I’ve read says 44 though.

All the new o-rings and Teflon seals are on the internal parts. Next is getting the housing cleaned up and replacing those seals. Then I can assemble. More later.

 

[CruiserTrash]

Humpty Dumpty is back together, but the top nut is not adjusted yet.

Getting the ball bearings in was the trickiest part. I put the internal shaft into the piston until the it was one groove past the hole in the middle of the piston. Then I started feeding the BBs in. After putting in 3-5 I used a tool to hold them down in the hole while doing a 1/4 turn back and forth once or twice, and then ending with a 1/4 rotation further inwards. Repeat a bunch of times until the shaft was bottomed out, pop 3-4 BBs into the top hole, and 10-11 in the two piece channel. And you’re good. FSM says to put som grease on either end of the channel to hold the BBs in when you install and that is good advice. Also the channel may not want to seat at first, but a little 1/8 rotation of the shaft back and forth helps. I tapped it with the back end of a screwdriver too.

I used this flat-ended drift to hold the BBs.

Assembly was straightforward except for the Teflon ring at the end of the piston. Where the two bores come together inside it forms a sharp lift. I rounded it over with 220 sandpaper (make sure to clean out any metal dust) and still cut the seal. Second time around I used a small screwdriver to gently get the lip of the seal tucked inside the lip. Done.

Here’s my first attempt, with the lip already cutting the Teflon ring. Oops.

After that, just follow the FSM and you’re home free. Here it is painted and with fresh OEM bolts - they’re still available! Yes I cleaned the paint off the machined flats. The big spanner nut on the side of the box was stuck to the lock ring, but I was able to free them up in a vise with homemade tools. Rust and staking were keeping them together. I filed out the staked threads, cleaned, reassembled them for the proper preload, and re-staked.

Here’s my best attempt at preload check. Not ideal. I mostly did it by feel. No wobble in the shaft, but not so tight the bearing drag was excessive or notchy. Checked with the fish scale and preload was in the lower-middle of the FSM range. Called it good.

The only remaining question is about the brass fittings for the hoses. When I took apart the box, those just fell right out. The Toyota rebuild kit comes with new ones, but they just kind of lay in there, they’re not snug and they fall right out too. I’m assuming that since they’re brass, they’ll deform under pressure when the hoses (with flared ends) get tightened down and compress into a shape that seals everything up. It’s kind of concerning that the old ones weren’t compressed into place…

 

[Hokie LX]

Great work!

 

[DirtMcgirt79]

Just got my OEM seal kit in today... Looking forward to tackling the job over the weekend. This thread has been a great reference in preparation to knock this out.

 

[Spike Strip]

Really great write-up.

 

[DirtMcgirt79]

So I made a dumb ass mistake today when rebuilding the PS box today. I used the OEM kit and after I finished the final step to install reinstalling the bolts on the worm and piston, I noticed what looked like plastic laying in the housing. Low and behold when I was reinstalling, the teflon gasket on the piston must have gotten pinched and it ripped a nice chunk out of it.

I really don't want to buy another full OEM kit. Anyone know if these gaskets can be sourced individually? If so, anyone have part numbers handy? If not, anyone find a local source for a full kit recently?

 

[Hokie LX]

So I made a dumb ass mistake today when rebuilding the PS box today. I used the OEM kit and after I finished the final step to install reinstalling the bolts on the worm and piston, I noticed what looked like plastic laying in the housing. Low and behold when I was reinstalling, the teflon gasket on the piston must have gotten pinched and it ripped a nice chunk out of it.

I really don't want to buy another full OEM kit. Anyone know if these gaskets can be sourced individually? If so, anyone have part numbers handy? If not, anyone find a local source for a full kit recently?

9056248001 this is for the two teflon gaskets that go over the o-rings on the shaft that goes into the piston.​

https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genuine/unit?c=TOYOTA00&ssd=%24%2AKwHA9OWPy52rsZOClYf-0piMrKu1xMvGx9X6yYGHtKO3u7215-Dwtra6oaGnpr_l4setg4eDsrmgxe3vj8K0x7DCw8zDn5SBjJ20jtCH1syJ_5ve0ZfXyMGJiN7M3bKI1pabl9bMmYmblJqQ18jRwMObkJve0Z2b0MnWu-jnjsvB1oiMhZ2S696bm4fWz9CjtaTq6Jve0ZeW0MnWwZKUjcDD1tnQnpfUkYf_uMXEubXev7eJiZuUmpDXyMeJAAAAAIvBD0Q%3D%24&vid=0&cid=2&uid=415431&q=JT3FJ60G3E0085418

Here's the diagram