Possible Overheating (1 Viewer)

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I just skimmed here, so apologies if it's already been said, but get a real temperature gauge or use torque, scangauge or the like. The stock gauge is pretty much just an idiot light.
 
BILT4ME said:
1) Looking under the oil cap for milky stuff tells you absolutely NOTHING about the head gasket condition. Period.
2) What is the level of coolant in the RADIATOR? (not the overflow tank)
3) I'll third the aspect of the fan clutch being the most likely culprit, other than not having enough coolant in it to begin with.
4) You may want to consider getting a TOYOTA radiator cap. I have seen MANY radiator caps that SUCK with quality and have had lots of issues because of it. Not to say the Toyota caps are not 100% problem-free, but they do seem to have better overall quality and longevity.
5) The fan is "always on" because it is driven mechanically. It is whether or not the internal clutch engages and makes it ock up together to match the pulley speeds, hence the term "fan clutch")
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Lots of useful information. Thanks! I was going to start with thermostat but I’ll go for the clutch now based on this information. It is definitely not engaging as the rotation speed seems to be a low constant. I’ll take a look at the level in the radiator as well once she’s cooled down a bit. Thanks again!
 
jpoole said:
If your truck is a later FZ with ODBII then you should get the following setup so that you can actually see what your coolant temps are:

Any odb2 bluetooth sender that is compatible with your smartphone. I got a similar unit for a similar price that works great:

Amazon product ASIN B00PJPHEBO
Any App on your phone that will read the output from that ODB2 sender. I purchased and installed "Torque" on my Android phone and it works great. You can then watch your temps and know what's actually going on.

If your's is odb1 then the easiest option may be a cheap Infrared temp gun though those are harder to use and can vary based on where you shoot etc.

Beyond knowing the actual engine temps another clue on overheating is that if you hit a high enough temp your 80s AC will shut off. Often this is an early/first clue that the engine is getting too hot. If your AC has been shutting down when your engine temps are up then this could be a big clue that you are actually running warm. Read up on this forum for info about what temp the AC cutoff happens at.

If your rad is fairly clean and the truck runs well overall but is running warm I'd be looking closely at the fan clutch.
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I don’t think the AC shuts off, but may be it just hasn’t gotten hot enough yet. I will keep an eye out for that. There is a definite lack of fan noise and I will replace the clutch as a first step.
 
Heckraiser said:
I just skimmed here, so apologies if it's already been said, but get a real temperature gauge or use torque, scangauge or the like. The stock gauge is pretty much just an idiot light.
Click to expand...
Will do. My truck is a 95 so I don’t think I have the OBDII setup, but I’ll confirm the temperature independently.
 
'95 was the transition year so you may have gotten lucky and have an odb2 rig which makes life a lot easier. This thread may help you figure out what you have pretty quickly:

forum.ih8mud.com

1995 OBD1 or OBD2?

My son's CEL came on again tonight and is running real rough. He has a 1995 FZJ80. I tried last night to read the codes from the OBD1 outlet on the firewall, passenger side and cannot get a reading. There is another port right in with the fuses in the cab on the drivers side. Does anyone know if...
forum.ih8mud.com forum.ih8mud.com
 
This is what i would do:
1) if you are going to get a new fan clutch, get the blue clutch and upgrade clutch fluid
2) while you have the clutch out, take time to reseal (gap) between radiator and shroud
3) install real time coolant temp gauge. Koso or OBD II scanner. This is by far the best mod. and you will see never to trust the stock gauge after.
4) install a new radiator cap (OEM)

My temp is 180-187 F highway/traffic with AC on. 190 -195 F on long hill climbs.
best of luck and report back
 
Marco Lau said:
This is what i would do:
1) if you are going to get a new fan clutch, get the blue clutch and upgrade clutch fluid
2) while you have the clutch out, take time to reseal (gap) between radiator and shroud
3) install real time coolant temp gauge. Koso or OBD II scanner. This is by far the best mod. and you will see never to trust the stock gauge after.
4) install a new radiator cap (OEM)

My temp is 180-187 F highway/traffic with AC on. 190 -195 F on long hill climbs.
best of luck and report back
Click to expand...
OBD II conformed! Picking up a scanner this evening to go with the app. I checked up prices and my local dealer has the clutch at around $200. The power clutch you are referring to has great reviews, but is around $275 shipped. I am unabashedly quite poor so I most likely will stick with Toyota clutch. The swap seems simple enough so I’ll attempt it as soon as the part comes in.

Very grateful for all the help I’ve received here! Here’s to hoping that it is not the head-gasket!!
 
Aisin fan clutch:

Fan Clutch at Amazon

If that isn't enough, you can change the silicone fluid yourself, it is both cheap and easy to do.

My '95 showed similar symptoms a couple summers back. I had already installed a new radiator, so I was a bit surprised to see the truck overheating on the first hot day of the year. My truck happened to have a blue hub fan clutch on it, so I replaced the fluid as is detailed in many threads here, and it did indeed take care of my problems.

And I will second the ELM bluetooth OBD2 adapter and the torque app. They showed me the real temps, which the stock temp gauge didn't even hint at until things were about to go south.
 
JeepinPete said:
Aisin fan clutch:

Fan Clutch at Amazon

If that isn't enough, you can change the silicone fluid yourself, it is both cheap and easy to do.

My '95 showed similar symptoms a couple summers back. I had already installed a new radiator, so I was a bit surprised to see the truck overheating on the first hot day of the year. My truck happened to have a blue hub fan clutch on it, so I replaced the fluid as is detailed in many threads here, and it did indeed take care of my problems.

And I will second the ELM bluetooth OBD2 adapter and the torque app. They showed me the real temps, which the stock temp gauge didn't even hint at until things were about to go south.
Click to expand...
Is that the identical Toyota part? If so God Bless you as it’s less than half the dealer price!

I can definitely afford to replace at this price! Did you pull out the part to do the fluid swap? If so would you happen to know the torque spec on those 4 bolts? Anything else you could think of that I should be wary of?

Again thanks a bunch!
 
iRoughNeck said:
Is that the identical Toyota part? If so God Bless you as it’s less than half the dealer price!

I can definitely afford to replace at this price! Did you pull out the part to do the fluid swap? If so would you happen to know the torque spec on those 4 bolts? Anything else you could think of that I should be wary of?

Again thanks a bunch!
Click to expand...
This is probably overdue- do a search on this forum for your issue, and for fan clutch mods. Lots of info you're not going to get from this thread.
 
iRoughNeck said:
Is that the identical Toyota part? If so God Bless you as it’s less than half the dealer price!
...
Click to expand...

Correct, Aisin FCT-004 is the replacement, IMHO, not the best clutch, but is the best replacement available new. Can't tell for sure in the running motor pix, but looks like you have an aftermarket, like Hayden. If so, is confirmed to be POS, short life and performance.
 
New rad cap, make sure she is burped, and a new thermostat. If it runs hotter while your driving and cooler at idle that is opposite of fan clutch symptoms. Use a Lisle spill free funnel to make burping the system much easier. If these don't fix the problem then I would do a flush, new clutch and new hoses. Honestly the whole cooling system should be overhauled on a vehicle of that age but you should start with the simple things.
 
I will definitely consider all that. I think the fan clutch is dead though as it does not engage at all (fan is always spinning at a low constant speed). Thanks for advice!
 
iRoughNeck said:
I will definitely consider all that. I think the fan clutch is dead though as it does not engage at all (fan is always spinning at a low constant speed). Thanks for advice!
Click to expand...

Pretty much guaranteed to be your problem. Buy the Aisin FCT-004, don't get one from the dealer, save your money. Do the fluid swap yourself (you don't even have to do it now..but its a convenient time). Use 20K cst fluid (purchase on Ebay, Amazon, etc).

I am 2 hrs. North of you, so we have the same weather (sweltering heat for 4 months). Replace the Thermostat with OEM and also the radiator cap with OEM. Check your hoses to be sure they haven't become soft. Make sure your belts are tight, use OEM 'matched' only for your drive belts, anything you like for the A/C belt.

Consider adding an Aux fan for your A/C condenser (You'll be needing the A/C soon), its easy to do and helps dramatically in slow traffic, plenty of threads on it if you search. It can be set up to run a number of ways.

Let us know if you have any questions, we are here to help.

Flint.
 
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