Por-15

[scoutingranch]

Fellers,
since the moderator was so kind to allow me to post here with my '68 40 I thought I would extend to you my knowledge about "the basic" Por-15 rust paint. Being a dyed in the wool car addict for the last 35 years I also sold Por-15 as a side job to my regular "paying job".

I have the tips on correct storage you won't learn from the instructions. Plus top coating, metal prep and what not to do.

Yes, it works, yes it is expensive. Although I no longer sell the paint, I still use it. More tips to follow if anyone is interested.

 

[Aloha Jen]

I’m not a fella, but I’m definitely interested in hearing more about the por-15 tips/topics you mentioned.

 

[1969FJ]

Fellers,
since the moderator was so kind to allow me to post here with my '68 40 I thought I would extend to you my knowledge about "the basic" Por-15 rust paint. Being a dyed in the wool car addict for the last 35 years I also sold Por-15 as a side job to my regular "paying job".

I have the tips on correct storage you won't learn from the instructions. Plus top coating, metal prep and what not to do.

Yes, it works, yes it is expensive. Although I no longer sell the paint, I still use it. More tips to follow if anyone is interested.

Are you going to share these "tips" with us ?

 

[Archie 1962 FJ25]

I am keen to know more about it. I am considering this for axle housings and drums etc.

 

[nuclearlemon]

i store my rust bullet by putting a layer of saran wrap in and flush against the remaining material, install top, then flipping it upside down

 

[1969FJ]

POR - 15 does not like UV on it. If it is hidden from that , ok. There are better products for different applications.

 

[scoutingranch]

Gosh, where to start.....Oh' and by the way, Aloha Miss Jen on the Island of "the Duke"

First off, I am not familiar with Rust Bullet although I have heard of the product , so I'll differ only to Por-15.

Por-15 is a moisture cure paint. And , '69FJ is 100% correct about UV and the basic Por-15.
Although, the same company sells paints that are tough as nails and can handle UV. That is not my focus in this writing.

Here is the storage tip. Do not open the lid. Instead, with a center punch, punch two holes in the top of the lid near the edge, 180 degrees from each other.
Seal the can when not in use with wood or sheet metal screws. That's it. I have cans I have been using for over a year that are still good today. Simply unscrew both screws, pour out what is needed, replace screws. It works every time. Just set the can on the garage shelf, no need to refrigerate.

I use the black color as my work is under the vehicle and in the engine compartment. The instructions tell you "not to shake the can before use as the black carbon particles will be in the mix when poured out" Ignore that. Go to the auto paint store and buy a box of paint filters. Shake that can then pour into the filter to filter out the black carbon bits.

If you are using a new can, let the filtered paint sit for 30 minutes. This allows the paint to flash off and thicken just a bit. Of course, the flash off period is going to be different depending on where you live. Jens flash time in Hawaii is shorter than 69FJs in Arizona.
Remember?.........moisture cure.

If anything I write makes no sense then please question me. It's o.k. I prefer clarity over agreement. I stole that from Dennis Prager.

My fingers need a break, I'll be back.

Side note: 1969FJ, the picture of the shack and Saguaro cactus is over by the Toyota Proving Grounds near Wickenburg. My version of the Beverly Hillbilly's mansion at Scoutingranch

 

[scoutingranch]

Next point, Por-15 is never intended for sheet metal or any smooth surface. The area to be coated must have tooth. Tooth is a surface area that is a little rough. Or, if we use a rear end as an example, it needs to be etched for the paint to stick. Por-15 product is called metal ready. It etches the metal. Then you clean off the metal with Por's thinner. No other, only Por's thinner. Keep wiping until the rags used come away clean.

 

[Splangy]

Of course it works - you live in Southern California. You could use nail polish for your chassis and it would work in your climate.

 

[scoutingranch]

Dang it Splangy.............you are on to me. We'll keep it just between us. I think it got down to 65 today......burrrr.

 

[nuclearlemon]

Of course it works - you live in Southern California. You could use nail polish for your chassis and it would work in your climate.

unless they run in the beach...that salt air still kills

 

[Splangy]

Dang it Splangy.............you are on to me. We'll keep it just between us. I think it got down to 65 today......burrrr.

With the exception of extremes, Temperature doesn’t play as important role to the long term performance a MCU as much as humidity, chloride contamination, and surface profile do.


In the northeast, Corrosion tends to leave a very aggressive surface profile. This can create problems with miracle paints like POR as it leaves the raised portions of the substrate with little protection. These locations end up being the weak link in the coating causing eventual widespread failure.

Chloride contamination from road deicing salts can be very difficult to completely remove. The salts left behind will promote moisture migration beneath the paint resulting in failure.

As far as letting POR thicken before application, I would use this tip with a bit of caution. The single thing that POR folks claim their miracle paint can do better than others is flow into the crevices and surface profile created by corrosion. Somehow their product does this better than other products. I would hesitate to intentionally reduce the product’s ability to flow.

My only point here is that there isn’t a one size fits all approach to coating section. What works for one application in one environment won’t necessarily work for the same application in another environment. Around here, long term automotive coating performance depends on careful coating section and usually requires meeting much more strict surface preparation/cleanliness standards than would be expected for a product like POR. In fact, the only time I’ve seen POR products truly successful around here is when they were applied over a surface meeting at least a commercial blast level of cleanliness with a relatively aggressive surface profile. If you’re going to meet that standard, it doesn’t make sense to limit yourself to POR.

 

[middlecalf]

And for POR-15 UV apparently.