pop/click sound when turning (1 Viewer)

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I'm getting intermittent pop/click sounds coming from underneath the driver seat/footwell when turning the wheel (particularly going over uneven surface). I had initially thought it was due to worn steering rack bushings after seeing they were pretty worn. I just replaced the bushings but that didn't solve the problem. Anything else that could cause this before jumping straight to the CV axel?
 
Upper/lower ball joints, sway bar bushings, sway bar, upper/lower control arm bushings
 
Clicking while turning = CV joint 98% of the time. The other 2% of the time = loose lug nut.
 
Seconding the sway bushings or links for a first order check. Mine bit the dust during a camping trip just a couple months ago and it was a pronounced clunking only while turning over uneven surfaces (SLC street gutters were plenty big to cause it). Easy first order check before CVs anyway.
 
Sharing my experience in case it helps. I have this sound as well. It almost feels like the torsion bar is popping out of its mount or the tie rods pop when turning. But I’m pretty sure it’s not those things. For me, it’s a single pop or click when turning left or accelerating fast.

I replaced a decent amount of stuff and I still have it. I now have new Toyota CV’s, bearings, tie rods, front sway bar bushings, sway bar links, and the sound is still there. I’m thinking it has to be the only thing I haven’t touched, the upper or lower control arms on the driver side. Or maybe diff bushings?. But it’s weird because I got an alignment after I replaced those things and the sound was still there. You gotta think they had everything tightened.
 
I'm getting intermittent pop/click sounds coming from underneath the driver seat/footwell when turning the wheel (particularly going over uneven surface). I had initially thought it was due to worn steering rack bushings after seeing they were pretty worn. I just replaced the bushings but that didn't solve the problem. Anything else that could cause this before jumping straight to the CV axel?
What are the service details of your truck? Year- miles- CV’s ever replaced? OEM or AM? What other front end service work done? Have you inspected ball joints for play, cv boots for grease leaks?

Feeling the pop(ing)- through the floorboard is CV axle in my experience. Look in the FSM for the diagram on how to check for play.

Look up how to inspect ball joints for play.

Look at/inspect sway bar frame mounts, bushings and especially the sway bar through holes which get elongated over time.
 
All helpful insights. For some history, both CVs were rebooted 2 years ago then passenger side CV gave out shortly after and was changed out for OE. I have swapped out for new sway bar links and bushing, rebooted passenger side upper ball joint (still felt good when this was done) and regreased all other ball joints within the last year. Also just changed out the steering rack bushings. I'll taken another look at the above items but based on the comments above and my car's history, I think driver side CV is the most likely the culprit.
 
Do you have a lift, or is it stock? I had the craziest thing after I did a mild AHC lift. It would pop and sound like something was breaking on tight turns either direction. Turns out, it was the metal bump stop that stops the wheel at full lock. There's a small pocket that it fits into. Because of the lift, it was slightly off and catching. I ground out the pocket and haven't heard it since.

If you're not lifted, then it's probably not this.
 
Providing an update on this. I ended up replacing the driver side CV joint but that didn't solve the issue (although car seems to drive smoother minus the pops/clicks). I took the car to a reputable indy (not LC specialist but father and son team who are both Japanese). They were able to reproduce the pop/click sound using a pry-bar and didn't find anything wrong with the suspension components (ball joint, sway bar link, tie rods etc.). They tracked the vibration of the pops from the frame to the front driver side body mount (#2 driver side in the diagram below). He tried to tighten the bolt but that didn't reduce the noise so I assume the bushing there must be shot. They told me to just live with it as it would be a big job to lift the body from the frame to replace the mount. (something they haven't done before). I didn't see much on the forum about replacing body mounts on a 100 series. Has anyone done this themselves or by a mechanic?

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Do you have a lift, or is it stock? I had the craziest thing after I did a mild AHC lift. It would pop and sound like something was breaking on tight turns either direction. Turns out, it was the metal bump stop that stops the wheel at full lock. There's a small pocket that it fits into. Because of the lift, it was slightly off and catching. I ground out the pocket and haven't heard it since.

If you're not lifted, then it's probably not this.
So l, I’ve got this same issue. Did you just take the edge of the pocket off or grind it all flat? Any chance you can snag a pic? I was thinking of maybe a rubber bump cap/ rubberize paint or replacement stop might work, grease is working for now but I’m guessing 1 month fix at most.
 
So l, I’ve got this same issue. Did you just take the edge of the pocket off or grind it all flat? Any chance you can snag a pic? I was thinking of maybe a rubber bump cap/ rubberize paint or replacement stop might work, grease is working for now but I’m guessing 1 month fix at most.
If I remember correctly, I just ground the edge off. Kind of opened it up a bit. I tried not to go too crazy with it. Just shave enough off to keep it from catching. I'll get a picture when I get home and post it.
 
grease is working for now but I’m guessing 1 month fix at most.
They’re supposed to be greased at regular intervals.
 
They’re supposed to be greased at regular intervals.
Hah! There you go. Keep the grinder in the garage and just grease it. Sounds like a much better idea than grinding it off.
 
Hah! There you go. Keep the grinder in the garage and just grease it. Sounds like a much better idea than grinding it off.
I talked to the guys over at Cruiser Outfitters and they said they know the problem and have not found any long term solution with a poly or rubber stop. So I think a little modification to the pocket is the way to go unless somebody’s willing to go thru a bunch of bump stops, to try and find a solution. I’m not afraid of a little grinder action on a knuckle. Lol
 
It’s hard to see in pics but, you can see the scrape mark where I just kinda opened it up a bit more. I’m sure you can be much more aggressive with it and it won’t hurt anything.

05B96C3C-BE4A-41F2-9EE1-10C38FEFEE4C.jpeg
 
I talked to the guys over at Cruiser Outfitters and they said they know the problem and have not found any long term solution with a poly or rubber stop.
The stoppers used to come with a plastic cover. Not sure if this will work on the 100’s stoppers or not but it’s what I’ve used on other Toyotas.
52971904-9A4D-45F7-B938-9448CF07E9D0.jpeg


FWIW, I just slap some grease on my 100’s stoppers every time I change the engine oil (5k mile intervals), and I haven’t had any noises.
 
What are the service details of your truck? Year- miles- CV’s ever replaced? OEM or AM? What other front end service work done? Have you inspected ball joints for play, cv boots for grease leaks?

Feeling the pop(ing)- through the floorboard is CV axle in my experience. Look in the FSM for the diagram on how to check for play.

Look up how to inspect ball joints for play.

Look at/inspect sway bar frame mounts, bushings and especially the sway bar through holes which get elongated over time.
When you say sway bar through holes, do you mean the U-shaped brackets that support the sway bar bushings to the frame with 2 bolts per bracket? If those get elongated, I could see them creating a popping noise when turning. Is it recommended to replace those clamps / brackets when changing the bushings? My 100 series has a singular pop, only sometimes, when turning, accelerating. I cannot find the problem for the life of me.
 

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