Poll on total brake failure in 100 series (9 Viewers)

[obe12]

Just to compare, my 94 one pedal mash pedal is equal to accelerator pedal height . My 100 is 1/2 that distance to same feel of pressure under my foot. Been claimed the ABS unit in my 94 creates that softer pedal feel and I really don’t like it. I can stop and engage all the ABS ans it works.

My 99, not so…the pedal higher and get into ABS easier.

Now, worth mentioning, key on pump pedal to pump activates and it should shut off, it building accumulator pressure used when you pumped the pedal. This motor should shut off after system builds pressure back up. This is the booster part of the brakes on your 100.

Faulty booster can give the feeling of odd feeling pedal.
If the pump runs, shuts off and you apply the brake once the motor should have to run again, the accumulator is there to have stored brake booster pressure.

Engine off key on and listen you will hear the pump activate and shut off pumping the brake pedal.

 

[Noctilucent]

Just to compare, my 94 one pedal mash pedal is equal to accelerator pedal height . My 100 is 1/2 that distance to same feel of pressure under my foot. Been claimed the ABS unit in my 94 creates that softer pedal feel and I really don’t like it. I can stop and engage all the ABS ans it works.

My 99, not so…the pedal higher and get into ABS easier.

Now, worth mentioning, key on pump pedal to pump activates and it should shut off, it building accumulator pressure used when you pumped the pedal. This motor should shut off after system builds pressure back up. This is the booster part of the brakes on your 100.

Faulty booster can give the feeling of odd feeling pedal.
If the pump runs, shuts off and you apply the brake once the motor should have to run again, the accumulator is there to have stored brake booster pressure.

Engine off key on and listen you will hear the pump activate and shut off pumping the brake pedal.

Okay, with the engine off and the key on, I pumped the brake pedal, and I indeed heard the accumulator activate and restore the pressure. Great info everything seems to be functioning with the accumulator

 

[obe12]

Okay, with the engine off and the key on, I pumped the brake pedal, and I indeed heard the accumulator activate and restore the pressure. Great info everything seems to be functioning with the accumulator

Great that is checked, now the pedal test …

When you pump 3 nice a slow deliberate pumps,
Then one and hold

“If you pump quickly and if air , it foams the air “

Harder to get air out too.

Try that and see what you get

 

[Noctilucent]

Great that is checked, now the pedal test …

When you pump 3 nice a slow deliberate pumps,
Then one and hold

“If you pump quickly and if air , it foams the air “

Harder to get air out too.

Try that and see what you get

Sounds good, I’ll try that and see what happens. How long should I hold the last pump? what should I be looking for?

 

[obe12]

Sounds good, I’ll try that and see what happens. How long should I hold the last pump? what should I be looking for?

One pump and note pedal position

Three deliberate pumps and let off

One right after you let off and check position
Compare to 1st time

See where that is

 

[Noctilucent]

One pump and note pedal position

Three deliberate pumps and let off

One right after you let off and check position
Compare to 1st time

See where that is

Alright, I measured it, and the height is consistent with the first pump.

 

[obe12]

Alright, I measured it, and the height is consistent with the first pump.

Well if it’s the same 1st to 4th I would say no air tomsleak
Of or contamination to the point of causing spungy brake feel.

Now it left to throw money at it, or possibly investigate about like year to compare. As I said, my 99 is really good to me, may not be to you.

The type of brake pads possibly creating more brake pressure to stop. I see this in other makes but it’s not often. If oem pads I would discard that theory.

Now I also improved my brake performance on both land cruisers by Slotted Dimpled Rotors and hi performance towing temp pads, plus stainless steel brake flex lines. My intent to pull a 6000 lbs cargo trailer with trailer brakes.

I also Supercharged my 4.7 in my 100, with custom valve body .
So comparing apples to oranges.

When I bough the 100 however the brake pedal never raised any concern to me.

Tex

 

[Noctilucent]

Well if it’s the same 1st to 4th I would say no air tomsleak
Of or contamination to the point of causing spungy brake feel.

Now it left to throw money at it, or possibly investigate about like year to compare. As I said, my 99 is really good to me, may not be to you.

The type of brake pads possibly creating more brake pressure to stop. I see this in other makes but it’s not often. If oem pads I would discard that theory.

Now I also improved my brake performance on both land cruisers by Slotted Dimpled Rotors and hi performance towing temp pads, plus stainless steel brake flex lines. My intent to pull a 6000 lbs cargo trailer with trailer brakes.

I also Supercharged my 4.7 in my 100, with custom valve body .
So comparing apples to oranges.

When I bough the 100 however the brake pedal never raised any concern to me.

Tex

That's reassuring, thank you!

 

[McBodes]

Just to add more data: Mine went out a few weeks ago at 316,000 miles. Was visiting family, made a quick run to the store and on the way back had the buzzer and all brake related lights go on. Drove real slow about a mile back to my folks’, didn’t lose braking until after we stopped. Tried pumping the pedal 30x with the key off, turned it back on and the accumulator motor wouldn’t run.

Ordered a new MC assembly, but ran into the same missing port/mismatched part number issue that was in post #838. Called the dealer and they didn’t seem to think the part number discrepancy between the box and the unit was an issue, but said that my VIN# showed 2 different MC’s in their system. They sent out the other one, which was correct. My cruiser is a 2000, so I’m not sure if there was some confusion with the switch to ATRAC on parts…

 

[2001LC]

Just to add more data: Mine went out a few weeks ago at 316,000 miles. Was visiting family, made a quick run to the store and on the way back had the buzzer and all brake related lights go on. Drove real slow about a mile back to my folks’, didn’t lose braking until after we stopped. Tried pumping the pedal 30x with the key off, turned it back on and the accumulator motor wouldn’t run.

Ordered a new MC assembly, but ran into the same missing port/mismatched part number issue that was in post #838. Called the dealer and they didn’t seem to think the part number discrepancy between the box and the unit was an issue, but said that my VIN# showed 2 different MC’s in their system. They sent out the other one, which was correct. My cruiser is a 2000, so I’m not sure if there was some confusion with the switch to ATRAC on parts…

98-99 LC have one brake port/ line from master to rear. 2000-up LC, have two rear line/ports. 2000 has a change in january, in wire harness. So between 98 and August 2000, Toyota has 3 variation of masters. If there was any earlier 2000 with only one rear port, I've not yet seen it.

 

[growly]

So this just happened to my truck, and sure enough she needed a new accumulator/motor/MC assembly. As a point of reference, I live in Berkeley, CA, and it cost me $2241.69+tax for parts and labour at the mechanic, and a $180 for a tow truck, to get fixed. This mechanic is usually reasonably priced and tries to get good deals on parts, but as far as I know the assembly had to come from Toyota.

Not great, but alright given the relatively modest total I’ve spent on maintenance in the last 7 years! But also worth the time to do it yourself I’m guessing if you’ve got the time and patience.

 

[Eliot]

@growly I was in a pinch ~5 years ago and had mine done at a local shop here in Charleston, SC. Ended up around $2400 so I’d say you got a good deal, considering.

I’ve got 70k more miles on my new assembly with not a single problem. It’s the only major repair I’ve had to do on the truck in the 10 years & 110k miles I’ve had it (‘99 LX with 350k miles currently).

 

[aphex2k]

My brakes are definitely iffy.
Sometimes they work and I can feel the ABS wobble
Sometimes I'm pressing brake and it's like they're super wet and cold and take a while to bite - they do slow me but not like I could jam the pedal on and stop on a dime - guess nearly 2.5 tonne aint gonna stopm like that.

Probably another "fix" for the future. Yay.

 

[2001LC]

My brakes are definitely iffy.
Sometimes they work and I can feel the ABS wobble
Sometimes I'm pressing brake and it's like they're super wet and cold and take a while to bite - they do slow me but not like I could jam the pedal on and stop on a dime - guess nearly 2.5 tonne aint gonna stopm like that.

Probably another "fix" for the future. Yay.

Check all brake lines for leaks and the flexibles lines for bubbles. Then flush with Toyota brake fluid.

 

[growly]

@growly I was in a pinch ~5 years ago and had mine done at a local shop here in Charleston, SC. Ended up around $2400 so I’d say you got a good deal, considering.

I’ve got 70k more miles on my new assembly with not a single problem. It’s the only major repair I’ve had to do on the truck in the 10 years & 110k miles I’ve had it (‘99 LX with 350k miles currently).

cheers to that

 

[MechE30]

My brakes are definitely iffy.
Sometimes they work and I can feel the ABS wobble
Sometimes I'm pressing brake and it's like they're super wet and cold and take a while to bite - they do slow me but not like I could jam the pedal on and stop on a dime - guess nearly 2.5 tonne aint gonna stopm like that.

Probably another "fix" for the future. Yay.

Adjusting the clevis on the top of the pedal where it connects to the master assembly really changed my braking feel. Went from needing to double pump, to first push feeling great.

 

[Ridgerunner78]

My brakes failed last week, 2004 LC, just under 255k miles, and has been in CO its whole life. I was hunting and was 4 miles from my camp back in a two track when I got the christmas tree dash lights and alarm, and was able to limp it out in 4 low. I pulled the booster motor out in camp and noticed some corrosion (not a while lot) on one of the electrical terminals on the motor. Cleaned it all up and jumped it straight to the battery and the motor ran fine. I put it all back together and it was working OK. I did get the alarm again briefly 3 times right at start up when it was cold out. Luckily I was able to get home with no issues. Now I'm waiting on a cheapo Amazon motor to get me by until I can replace the whole master cylinder/pump/accumulator assembly.

 

[2000UZJ]

2006 w/ 297K on the ODO. Booster pump went out today, zero pressure on the pedal. I’m biting the bullet and doing a new master cylinder assembly.

 

[2001LC]

2006 w/ 297K on the ODO. Booster pump went out today, zero pressure on the pedal. I’m biting the bullet and doing a new master cylinder assembly.

I hear, 25% off wholesale sale coming up.

Toyota sale, 25% off wholesale and free shipping WOW

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forum.ih8mud.com

 

[ELEX470]

I have an 07 Lx470 with 219k and when timing the pump when building back pressure in the braking system it takes right about 40 seconds. From what I've read here, anything over 40 seconds is a sign something is wrong.

Would folks recommend that I replace the brake master assembly as preventative maintenance now? Or keep on driving until things worsen?