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Because 20 year old trucks with 175-250k+ miles on them will eventually need a master cylinder. Trucks by any other manufacturers are probably already on their second or third MC, if the truck isn't already in the junkyard. Land Cruisers are like airplanes - they will, in the end, outlast the sum of their parts. Parts, even good ones, don't last forever. We are getting to the point where things, however well made, start to break. When you sell 200,000 of a of model of a car in a year, the parts cost less. When you make 3-15k of a car that will last 500k miles.... the part isn't going to be cheap.I just looked through 20 years of service records, no record of brake failure, just full replacement of drum/rotors at 120K, and normal shoe/pad services.
Sounds scary, though, that's a lot of iron to stop without binders!
So that's a "No". I have to wonder why Toyota hasn't had a (Quiet) campaign to sort this out. I spent 15 years in the car business, and no maker wants a major safety scandal if they can help it.
It looks like certain years have had a lot of recalls...
Good job on being alert to the Alarm & Lights. So often these are ignored and driver just keeps driving!
Not hearing booster motor runs is indication your motor has failed. We a few test for this that starts with a 12Volt jump at ABS (black box on master) wire block, then moves to jumping directly on the motors. It's possible that no current is passes through ABS to motor. But most often it's the motor has failed.
What I see very often is commutator of motor copper has worn out. New booster motor, pump, accumulator assembly is a good way to go. It will include the control wire. Then have a master rebuild kit (plunger and seals) installed. This would last you for life in most cases.
You can also go with just used or rebuilt motor. If that is the issue, which most are. But the control wire, screws and nuts are consider non reusable by the factory. That wire list for ~$300. Any motor that is not new needs to be disassembled and inspected. These re-builders can not replace commutator (or so local re-builders have said they can't get), only brushes and bearings. It also will not address pump or accumulator.
If you PM me, I'll give a links that new OEM can be found at a good prices.
I'd be supper interest in your used parts, please have mechanic save them!
I'm tearing down these old parts, to look for causes of failure. What I'm finding is when the control wire is corroded, the commutator is worn through to insulator in most cases. Yours would be helpful to my data base.