Did you find out where the leak came from? Was it possibly over filled at some point? Since you mentioned voltage drop how does the screws/wires under the rubber boots look.
Poll on total brake failure in 100 series (5 Viewers)
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Update: lots of driving and all good. I actually ended up with an ABS controller from a 2001 and a motor and accumulator for a 2000 that I put into the 98. Bolts up fine and works, just leave the ABS plug (looks like a pressure bellows sensor for the early warning buzzer) unplugged as a 98 doesn't have it. Plug was on the front of the ABS controller.
im thinking the leak is coming from the master cyl or the reservoir seal. I had it flushed at a shop a couple months ago and I don't think it was over filled. it is near the max before start up and then when the pump cycles on a couple times it gets down below middle, like a quarter to the low mark. The connectors look good, they even feel like they have some dielectric on them. I got the master cylinder kit and the motor, just need to research the reservoir seals. the reservoir has some play in it and when you move it around it sounds like some fluid is coming out, but that could just be the rubber making a squishing sound.
Squishing sound could be the MC seals as well
Buddy is getting the hungry crow screeching noise, there's no soft pedal or loss of pressure, it stops after a few seconds and only does it after the car sits for awhile. Should he be ready to get a new booster?
The way it appear to bubble in (flow into) the reservoir. I'd say it's not the booster motor, pump or accumulator. It appears the high pressure is leaking intermittently, releasing into reservoir. I'd be inclined to put in a master cylinder kit in and flush. He could try flushing first, but would have to re-do if he rebuilt the cylinder. Would be a cheap start and never hurts to rebuild the cylinder, provided done properly that is! It would only be a waste of resources, if pressure switch in the ABS has gone bad. Then ABS would need replacing. Which Toyota does not sell separately from master. But if that were the case (ABS), I'd think he's see VCS & TRAC OFF and ABS warning.
Found a used unit on ebay with a good warranty/guarantee on it. How hard is it to take one of these units out, i've never done it before, not sure how much is involved to give him a fair quote on the labor.
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You gotta unbolt it from above the brake pedal on the interior side of the firewall. It’s straight forward on non-VGRS trucks, but with the VGRS crap in the way you have to remove/unbolt more stuff to get your hands & tools up there. Like the whole brake pedal bracket if I remember from when I pulled my spare from an ‘03. It’s also got rusty screws, but I got it for a song.Found a used unit on ebay with a good warranty/guarantee on it. How hard is it to take one of these units out, i've never done it before, not sure how much is involved to give him a fair quote on the labor.
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Not hard just takes time. If 98-02, you'll need to move charcoal canister to side first. Unfastening brake line brackets, makes pulling master assembly easier.Found a used unit on ebay with a good warranty/guarantee on it. How hard is it to take one of these units out, i've never done it before, not sure how much is involved to give him a fair quote on the labor.
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Install tip: pre bleed master on the bench. Oil threads of flare nuts and tighten them in by hand, then torque to 7f-lbfto start.
But seems your jumping ahead of yourself. As your not yet sure, it need a complet master assembly with booster assembly.
I'm not say this is the issue. But the seal moves passed a chamber that is pressurized by booster assembly. If the seal leaks, it "may" cause your issue. I've not seen your friends issue personally, so it's just speculation on my part.
Master cylinder kit are ~$50.
Anybody swapped the bolts and cable w/o removing the assembly? It seems really tight in there, not sure I'd be able to. My system works fine, fluid just flushed, pressurizes @ 30ish seconds after the FSM test is performed, etc. But I noticed some rust on the terminals and it has me worried. 102,000 on the clock, no-rust vehicle. Thanks in advance!
It may be possible to remove wires while master in place. But will be a PITA job. If wire corroded/rust, them screws and nuts likely frozen in. In that event, the master would for sure need pulling, and screws drilled out.
Yes, at 190k but if was a line failure. Corroded and ruptured. 99 LC
Yeah, this afternoon I took a small mirror and was able to visually confirm that the terminals directly below the master cylinder were in fact corroded beyond repair. Looks like master cylinder is coming out, which is unfortunate considering the system is otherwise operating very well.
Pulling master now and replacing wire, is good thing! It will give opportunity to inspect commutator inside motor and should give more year/miles to motor, if my theory of high resistance due to corroded wires is correct.
I voted "Yes" considering my may have been "near total" failure. I had intermittent warnings (light would go on and off), and when I took it in for routine maintenance, I learned the master cylinder had lost all fluid and the booster was gone. Luckily I am getting it repaired before catastrophe, but it could have happened I suppose!
Okay so the plot thickens on my buddy's LX, he said he was in West VA for the weekend and upon returning home he started hearing that hungry crow sound. I thought to myself, I just drove through there not too long ago, it's steep as hell with mountainous terrains. So i asked him, were you riding your brakes on steep grades, he said yes.
Did he boil the brakes that led to this? Very high possibility
Did he boil the brakes that led to this? Very high possibility
Old fluid certainly has high moisture content, which boils at lower temp. This leads to brake failure or weak brake, from low pressure. It can also lead to seal damage. But what I saw in video, look more like valve or seal leak.
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