Poll on total brake failure in 100 series (4 Viewers)
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Oh duhhh, i guess working outside in the 104 degree heat made me crazy, that and i'm not getting paid for it. The unit came with the u bolt all the way at the top, i had to thread it down 3/8" for the proper travel...all is good now.
I just looked through 20 years of service records, no record of brake failure, just full replacement of drum/rotors at 120K, and normal shoe/pad services.
Sounds scary, though, that's a lot of iron to stop without binders!
So that's a "No". I have to wonder why Toyota hasn't had a (Quiet) campaign to sort this out. I spent 15 years in the car business, and no maker wants a major safety scandal if they can help it.
It looks like certain years have had a lot of recalls...
Sounds scary, though, that's a lot of iron to stop without binders!
So that's a "No". I have to wonder why Toyota hasn't had a (Quiet) campaign to sort this out. I spent 15 years in the car business, and no maker wants a major safety scandal if they can help it.
It looks like certain years have had a lot of recalls...
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Still a very interesting thread. Wondering how many failures came from vehicles with a bad brake maintenance history. Like letting pads get to grinding status and poor fluid in the system. Just thinking the system would be working harder to stop the rig thus putting more of a strain on system? Also was this the only Yota/Lexus vehicle with this particular problem or issues?
4runners, GX, first gen tundras all use the same brake system.
Because 20 year old trucks with 175-250k+ miles on them will eventually need a master cylinder. Trucks by any other manufacturers are probably already on their second or third MC, if the truck isn't already in the junkyard. Land Cruisers are like airplanes - they will, in the end, outlast the sum of their parts. Parts, even good ones, don't last forever. We are getting to the point where things, however well made, start to break. When you sell 200,000 of a of model of a car in a year, the parts cost less. When you make 3-15k of a car that will last 500k miles.... the part isn't going to be cheap.
There is a recent video on Instagram of a gx470 crawling up hells gate when apparently the truck stalls and the driver looses brakes and smashes into the truck behind it. There are way too many comments and theories as to why the truck lost brakes, but thought you guys would find it interesting.... I tried to figure out a way to post the video on here, but I don't know how.
99' LC 100 203,XXX miles no brake failures..... yet
99' LC 100 203,XXX miles no brake failures..... yet
hoser
SILVER Star
Holy crap!
That's scary. Wonder if hes a member of mud. Bet he has a story to tell
That was one heck of ride! 
He was riding with me all day in Ouray a few days after this happened. It was (and is) quite a story!
It wasn't total brake failure. The truck slid off the side, rolled back, and the engine cut out due to some other reason. Lost all power to brakes, ebrake was pulled...but the momentum monster let gravity win. It was an unfortunate sequence of events.
99 lx with 167,000 miles. Just experienced total brake failure. This truck is new to me as I got in 3 months ago. I had it immediately and extensively baselined, new pads and resurfaced rotors and all brakelines inspected after purchase.
This truck is not daily driven but I had just taken a 3 hour drive on the highway through the Ozark mountains. I was turning onto my street and noticed my seatbelt was not locking when hitting the brakes. I gave it a good solid push to try and get the seatbelt to lock and when I did that the ABS and BRAKE lights came on along with the alarm. The brakes still functioned normally but I was aware of this problem and slowed down and slowly coasted to my driveway. Upon entering my driveway the pedal went to the floor and I had to yank the parking brake to stop the truck from rolling into the garage door. Thank God this happened at that point rather than when traveling 85mph on the highway.
Brake fluid is just above the max line so there is no leak but I do not hear any motor turning when I turn the key to the first or 2nd position.
I’ll be taking this to my mechanic to have it fixed. From extensive reading it appears I have a few options.
1. $$$ new own complete master cylinder and pump assembly. $3,000 +
2. $$ Have the MC rebuilt and have a new pump assembly and accumulator installed. $900+
3. $ have the MC rebuilt and have my pump motor rebuilt or buy a rebuilt motor off eBay. $500+
Any other options? I’m currently leaning toward option 2... I’m also wondering if anyone has any thoughts on why the seatbelt stopped locking when hitting the brakes. This aspect does not seem to commonly happen...
This truck is not daily driven but I had just taken a 3 hour drive on the highway through the Ozark mountains. I was turning onto my street and noticed my seatbelt was not locking when hitting the brakes. I gave it a good solid push to try and get the seatbelt to lock and when I did that the ABS and BRAKE lights came on along with the alarm. The brakes still functioned normally but I was aware of this problem and slowed down and slowly coasted to my driveway. Upon entering my driveway the pedal went to the floor and I had to yank the parking brake to stop the truck from rolling into the garage door. Thank God this happened at that point rather than when traveling 85mph on the highway.
Brake fluid is just above the max line so there is no leak but I do not hear any motor turning when I turn the key to the first or 2nd position.
I’ll be taking this to my mechanic to have it fixed. From extensive reading it appears I have a few options.
1. $$$ new own complete master cylinder and pump assembly. $3,000 +
2. $$ Have the MC rebuilt and have a new pump assembly and accumulator installed. $900+
3. $ have the MC rebuilt and have my pump motor rebuilt or buy a rebuilt motor off eBay. $500+
Any other options? I’m currently leaning toward option 2... I’m also wondering if anyone has any thoughts on why the seatbelt stopped locking when hitting the brakes. This aspect does not seem to commonly happen...
Good job on being alert to the Alarm & Lights. So often these are ignored and driver just keeps driving!
Not hearing booster motor runs is indication your motor has failed. We a few test for this that starts with a 12Volt jump at ABS (black box on master) wire block, then moves to jumping directly on the motors. It's possible that no current is passes through ABS to motor. But most often it's the motor has failed.
What I see very often is commutator of motor copper has worn out. New booster motor, pump, accumulator assembly is a good way to go. It will include the control wire. Then have a master rebuild kit (plunger and seals) installed. This would last you for life in most cases.
You can also go with just used or rebuilt motor. If that is the issue, which most are. But the control wire, screws and nuts are consider non reusable by the factory. That wire list for ~$300. Any motor that is not new needs to be disassembled and inspected. These re-builders can not replace commutator (or so local re-builders have said they can't get), only brushes and bearings. It also will not address pump or accumulator.
If you PM me, I'll give a links that new OEM can be found at a good prices.
I'd be supper interest in your used parts, please have mechanic save them!
I'm tearing down these old parts, to look for causes of failure. What I'm finding is when the control wire is corroded, the commutator is worn through to insulator in most cases. Yours would be helpful to my data base.
Not hearing booster motor runs is indication your motor has failed. We a few test for this that starts with a 12Volt jump at ABS (black box on master) wire block, then moves to jumping directly on the motors. It's possible that no current is passes through ABS to motor. But most often it's the motor has failed.
What I see very often is commutator of motor copper has worn out. New booster motor, pump, accumulator assembly is a good way to go. It will include the control wire. Then have a master rebuild kit (plunger and seals) installed. This would last you for life in most cases.
You can also go with just used or rebuilt motor. If that is the issue, which most are. But the control wire, screws and nuts are consider non reusable by the factory. That wire list for ~$300. Any motor that is not new needs to be disassembled and inspected. These re-builders can not replace commutator (or so local re-builders have said they can't get), only brushes and bearings. It also will not address pump or accumulator.
If you PM me, I'll give a links that new OEM can be found at a good prices.
I'd be supper interest in your used parts, please have mechanic save them!
I'm tearing down these old parts, to look for causes of failure. What I'm finding is when the control wire is corroded, the commutator is worn through to insulator in most cases. Yours would be helpful to my data base.
I have the complete set that i took out of my friend's 2004 LX when i replaced it, it's heavy as hell and when i got the new unit for him, the ebayer had to pay $96 in shipping for it. If you cover that i'll find time to ship it out to you, donating to science.
This whole thing
