Hey dnp... Check out this post as I tore down my unit (with the exception of the MC rebuild).
Another ABS Brake Failure
Poll on total brake failure in 100 series (7 Viewers)
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Hey dnp... Check out this post as I tore down my unit (with the exception of the MC rebuild).
Another ABS Brake Failure
So the next time somebody posts a "What's the best year LC/LX to buy?" thread, it can't be the '99 model, because they have more brake failures?
- Thread starter
- #164
that's an interesting point. What are you going to say if somebody asks "should I buy a 100?"
Well, if you say "the brakes can fail just about completely suddenly..." you can guess what the reaction will be.
Of course, there are surely other vehicles for which that's the case too. For that matter the 80 probably too from what I gather, although they haven't figured it out yet...
Or are some of us just paranoid?
Well, if you say "the brakes can fail just about completely suddenly..." you can guess what the reaction will be.
Of course, there are surely other vehicles for which that's the case too. For that matter the 80 probably too from what I gather, although they haven't figured it out yet...
Or are some of us just paranoid?
uHu
Bridgeburner
Maybe this modified SS kit could ensure that the E-brake works well, for an extended period of time?
BOSS Hand Brake Strut Dogbone & Rebuild Kit Landcruiser 100ser (IFS) handbrake*
BOSS Hand Brake Strut Dogbone & Rebuild Kit Landcruiser 100ser (IFS) handbrake*
ranma21
Supporting Vendor
Not a chance!! Wish that is the case
hurry and spread the words, so hungry mudder like me can snatch them up, replace the booster and drive the hell out of it for another 10 years. I've been wondering for quite some time why this is such an issue here. It sounds like the booster goes out but there is still some stopping power just like on any other power brake system. I realize it's hard to press the pedal and generate full stopping power, but I don't remember reading of one accident this has caused. I've had power boosters go out on vacuum based systems and it hasn't been a big deal like it is made to sound here. Am I missing something? I understand some concern for our significant others that may not have as much pedal force potential, but the vehicle will stop, right? I also think this is a concern in a situation where it is a surprise that there is suddenly more effort needed, but this thread has surely solved that issue.
That conflicts with a couple accounts here that said they had a pedal but had to push hard. Pressure or vacuum it's the same thing at the end, you don't have "assist" but do have the pressure that you generate with the pedal. Or is this system different from other systems in that there is no pressure generated manually by the pedal? If that is the case, coupled with the lack of an automatic adjuster for the parking brake that leaves the brake adjusted poorly in short order, that is definitely a concern.
So #justayin what happened in my rig. The lights and buzz went off once and the brakes still worked. I parked, turned it off, filled up with gas, turned it on and started driving toward the exit onto the main road. No lights or buzz after it started. As I approached the road and pressed the brakes, nothing. With the brakes all the way to the floor. Had to immediately pull the e-brake and turn onto the shoulder of the road in order to avoid crashing into vehicles already passing on the road. My guess is the system is designed this way - once the lights and buzz start you may only get one chance to address it before failure. But that's just a guess.
"Pulled into the grocery store parking lot and as I pull into a parking spot, the pedal goes to the floor. I had just a little bit of brakes, but it took some serious force to stop...."
SmoothLC, perhaps there's more than one failure mode? Perhaps you didn't push hard enough at the end of pedal travel in a panic situation before resorting to the hand brake? My experiences in different vehicles (I have driven quite a few POS vehicles lol) have been very similar to the above. It feels like the pedal is to the floor and hitting metal, then you push harder and the vehicle slowly stops. I definitely don't want to discredit your account, I just really suspect that if the pump fails there's still a way to stop the vehicle using the brake pedal. I just can't imagine that Toyota would have deviated so dangerously from how nearly every other power brake system operates or rather how they behave when they don't. Then again I never had a vehicle with a motorized pump in the master cylinder so I guess I really don't know.
SmoothLC, perhaps there's more than one failure mode? Perhaps you didn't push hard enough at the end of pedal travel in a panic situation before resorting to the hand brake? My experiences in different vehicles (I have driven quite a few POS vehicles lol) have been very similar to the above. It feels like the pedal is to the floor and hitting metal, then you push harder and the vehicle slowly stops. I definitely don't want to discredit your account, I just really suspect that if the pump fails there's still a way to stop the vehicle using the brake pedal. I just can't imagine that Toyota would have deviated so dangerously from how nearly every other power brake system operates or rather how they behave when they don't. Then again I never had a vehicle with a motorized pump in the master cylinder so I guess I really don't know.
From the owner's manual:
uHu
Bridgeburner
Oregon, what year is that OM from? That text is much clearer an more elaborate than in my old manual.
Mr111, what you say re still having stopping power is right, as long as the MC is in working order. BUT, the force you have to use is so much higher than on any other vehicle, and still you get only a tiny bit of braking. The difference between full booster and no booster is really enormous.
The plunger (piston) in the MC is double, with one part that works only if there is no pressure left in the booster, and that part works only on the front circuit.
Maybe all 100-owners ought to pull the fuse and, at a safe place, test how it brakes without the booster. Do this only after doing your annual E/hand-brake service though.
Mr111, what you say re still having stopping power is right, as long as the MC is in working order. BUT, the force you have to use is so much higher than on any other vehicle, and still you get only a tiny bit of braking. The difference between full booster and no booster is really enormous.
The plunger (piston) in the MC is double, with one part that works only if there is no pressure left in the booster, and that part works only on the front circuit.
Maybe all 100-owners ought to pull the fuse and, at a safe place, test how it brakes without the booster. Do this only after doing your annual E/hand-brake service though.
It's from the downloadable FSM (which includes an electronic owner's manual), so my guess it's for a 2004.
Maybe this modified SS kit could ensure that the E-brake works well, for an extended period of time?
BOSS Hand Brake Strut Dogbone & Rebuild Kit Landcruiser 100ser (IFS) handbrake*
Anyone install this or a similar kit? I tightened up my stock hand brake and tried to stop the truck while rolling down a hill...it did not go well. I'd like to upgrade my hand brake to ensure a good backup. Any other recommendations?
cboyd
GOLD Star
in my case it was the accumulator failure. however, because of the service condition of the accumulator mounted to the MC, both had to be replaced. the accumulator nuts and bolts were corroded too far to allow separation of the accumulator from the MC. I tink had they been able to service this, it would have been the $1200 above, and not the $3500 it ended up being.
to me, given all the discussion in the thread, this makes sense that it's a wear item that should be subject to 150k service interval. that said, that's the service-life of many cars and trucks, so to have to do this on my LC (given my investment in it) it wasn't a big deal. because stopping is a big deal...
I do see correlation of the data here (pre-2000 failures) to indicate that they were aware of this in 2000, along with complaints from small-stature drivers, that they re-worked the system to include a boost circuit and the other VSC-related stuff. I've been told by several Toyota folks that there were a lot of complaints about "braking feel" in early 100s (1998, 1999) and that in fact the changed the design.
cboyd
GOLD Star
...and I should add that my 2006 stock brakes feel better than my 1999 even with a brand-new MC in the 1999... I've made my mechanic crazy trying to get him to match that feel from the 06 to the 1999.
Seems like your 99 is done up pretty well. I'm sure all that extra weight and I'm assuming bigger tires also doesn't help with the stopping.
THIS -everything is made this way since at least 1968? Lots of ppl say pedal to the floor but ALMOST floor and usually scary but stops. If there had been another problem being ignored and driving one one circuit only then the OTHER circuit goes then you have nothing. try pulling all abs fuses and still if it can be made to stop. IF so don't see why it shouldn't with abs failing. One of the most common failures on anything-some sooner than others is a broken brake line but it will still stop on the other part of the circuit.
