Poll on total brake failure in 100 series (19 Viewers)

[e9999]

any new entries in the poll?

 

[Pritchnakoff]

1998, ~223K voted - NO (last week)

*Caveat is that I've only owned the vehicle for a couple weeks and haven't experienced any brake failure over the last couple hundred miles that I've put on the truck.

**UPDATE since voting: Just performed the $h!tty starter replacement this past weekend and after getting everything back together and starting up for the first time, the ABS dash light came on?! No beeps, no buzzing, no CEL codes to read. I drove around the block a couple times and brakes seem to be in full working order as good as they have been all along. I can hear the accumulator motor kick in when I start the truck and sitting in my driveway and pumping brakes I'm definitely getting expected pedal feedback. Spending the last hour+ reading this entire thread again, definitely has me concerned! I think I'll be replacing this ASAP just to be on the safe side; but I need to drive daily until parts arrive - does anyone think this could be just a fuse or other smaller issue?

 

[uHu]

....and after getting everything back together and starting up for the first time, the ABS dash light came on?! No beeps, no buzzing, no CEL codes to read. I drove around the block a couple times and brakes seem to be in full working order as good as they have been all along.
.... - does anyone think this could be just a fuse or other smaller issue?

Iirc, the abs light comes on if there is a glitch in the signal from a abs wheel sensor of more than a certain time, maybe it was 5 secs. It happens if you ever turn on the ignition without one of the wheel sensor plugs connected, and I've also seen it after doing the wheel bearings, but then it goes away after some driving with normal signal from all sensors. If the light doesn't go away, you can read the codes, take a note, and reset it; and see if that helps.

 

[sean2202]

Anyone install this or a similar kit? I tightened up my stock hand brake and tried to stop the truck while rolling down a hill...it did not go well. I'd like to upgrade my hand brake to ensure a good backup. Any other recommendations?

Did you try this kit out? I have gotten codes c1256 accumulator low pressure in the past.I think my system needs attention ASAP. Are there any other Toyota vehicles with brake systems similar to this?

 

[Landpimp]

99 LX470......close to 200,000.....no failure
2000 LC, 160,000....no failure

parking brake=emergency brake.....learn to use it drove my 45 about 10 miles just using the e brake.....

 

[Jody Highroller]

If your accumulator has failed then that part's what you need, the last few failures have been the 12vdc motor that runs on demand to drive the pump which charges that accumulator. It appears Toyota doesn't sell just the replacement motor, you need to either fix it (have a new commutator soldered in with new brushes) or buy the $$$ motor/pump/accumulator assembly. At least that's my understanding.
Edit. Pump Assembly brake booster - 47960-60010 which is just the pump and motor (no accumulator) can be had for $900 ish, or $600 from Amayama.

Thanks. I pulled my ABS assembly out and noticed badly damaged terminals from the "ASIN" solenoid control box to the ABS motor. I too believe this is either related to an accumulator failure which places increased workload on the motor/pump OR the motor terminals are failing from excessive rusty/water/corrosion

 

[Larch Tree]

Yes. @120k miles '06 LC. Complete brake failure 30 minutes after indicator lights and 5 minutes after audible warning, so sufficient advance notice it was coming.

 

[WaterCruiser]

No for me (2003, 208K miles)

 

[uHu]

Anyone install this or a similar kit? I tightened up my stock hand brake and tried to stop the truck while rolling down a hill...it did not go well. I'd like to upgrade my hand brake to ensure a good backup. Any other recommendations?

Did you try this kit out? ...

I ordered that E-brake kit nearly a year ago, and installed it in the spring. I also got their brake shoes, in order to make the brakes as good as possible. Not impressed tho' - What it does is to push the upper ends of the shoes further apart, so that you need less adjustment at the lower end. Also the return springs are stronger, but with both the forward and rear springs equal (not like OE) and so thick that they are difficult to fit in the groove on the center pin/bolt. Also, as the top end of the shoes are further apart, the top end hardly goes behind the retaining washer/plate at the center pin/bolt, making it possible for the shoes to dislocate.
Their shoes had a thinner lining than the OE shoes, and they don't bite well. I couldn't make the handbrake work well at all. After spending a day adjusting and testing, I put in the OE shoes and got acceptable braking again.
I did complain to the company about the springs and the shoes, but they only blamed me for doing something wrong, although I photo-documented everything.
I have kept those longer dogbones installed, but replaced two of the springs with OE, and with t0yota shoes, and it works kinda OK.

 

[hifu]

Nope, I did replace all the shoes and rotors as a PM at 185k

 

[sacmaster]

I followed my old 2000 on the Toyota owner's website, and it showed that the next owner replaced the master cylinder at 240k miles. It had the soft initial press of the pedal for many thousands of miles before I sold it, but I think it got water in the system at some point because the top for the brake fluid reservoir would pop off randomly, even after replacing it with a new one.

The brakes on my 03 with 193k miles are great.

 

[steelynorm]

2000 lc 232k
No issues

 

[krice118]

Brakes failed today. Driving from work in Estes Park on highway 36. Was barely able to stop off the road. Thank god I was able to stop before the intense curves going down the mountain!

1998
110,500 miles
On 1/13/2017

 

[OG 91 LC]

No warning at all? Lights? Sounds?

Not cool.

 

[krice118]

@OG 91 LC

So I should have known something was up. Each time I pressed the breaks I could hear the pads on the rotors if that makes sense. It was right after all our snow so I thought the rotors were full of grime. The E- Brake light was on even though the E brake was not on. I was exhausted and trying to make it home from work, but I should have know as my brakes were never really great. the ABS light came on along with the chime, pressed the pedal 2-4 times till I could get off the main road and BARELY came to a stop by throwing the tranny down to L and pulling the E Brake.

I am very grateful no one was hurt and that it happened on dry pavement.

 

[SmoothLC]

Yikes - glad you were able to get it to stop.

 

[krice118]

@SmoothLC

I was planning on taking the LC to Slee this spring to look into my brakes! But I thought I had more time. I would recommend fixing this before it NEEDs to be replaced. I am so grateful it happened on the road and not a mountain trail.

 

[SmoothLC]

I hear ya @krice118 - a failure was in the back of my mind while we were rolling around in Utah's San Rafael Swell. Thankfully it happened the day after we got back right next to an Autozone so it could be diagnosed. I am not easy on the brakes.

 

[OG 91 LC]

I recently went up and down my local mountains with the family in my LX. It's def on my mind when they're in the truck.

I have said it before, but I practice slowing down the vehicle using my 2nd and low gear. It seems like if I'm traveling at 40+mph and I put it in 3rd, 2nd, and Low the truck really doesn't slow down until it gets down to 15-20mph. I don't think my truck would slow down at all(or fast enough) if I slammed it from 4th to Low. Or am I doing something wrong??? Or should I do something differently???

 

[e9999]

Krice, glad you were OK. And that there were advance warning signs.

I have some vague recollection of somebody (not here) saying that they put the auto trans in reverse to stop a car in an emergency and that it did so and did not damage the trans in the process. Anybody knows if that is even possible? If it is it may be good to keep in mind as a last resort.