Poll on total brake failure in 100 series
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@2001LC I am having mine replaced this week. 99 with 236k miles odometer but oversized tires for a longtime. No total failure brakes were alot weaker than low mileage 04 so I was suspect.
Yeap a code on brake actuator.
I am going to fill that boot with grease and put a hole in it.
If you want this assembly let me know.
Yeap a code on brake actuator.
I am going to fill that boot with grease and put a hole in it.
If you want this assembly let me know.
I am interested in it. It's age and mileage will yield some good data as I tear down.
What was the DTC/code?
PM sent!
Read through this post and was getting pretty nervous. My '00 has 185k on it. I bought one of those mirrors on a stick and used it to inspect my screws and they look brand spanking new, no rust or corrosion. I'm going to coat them in dielectric grease and call it good unless there's anything else I should do for PM while I'm in there?
Opinions differ, under similar circumstances to yours, I chose to rebuild the master cylinder, and replace the motor and accumulator with a new combo unit.
I did this because I believe the accumulator is a wear out part with a limited life span. One could save some money by rebuilding the motor rather than replacing it with a new one.
Unfortunately, the most complete replacement is so expensive.
I did this because I believe the accumulator is a wear out part with a limited life span. One could save some money by rebuilding the motor rather than replacing it with a new one.
Unfortunately, the most complete replacement is so expensive.
Best price I know of is ~$800. Watch the shipping 4707060010 Make sure to input your VIN #, it insure correct parts.
I'd be very interest in your old unit if you go this rout. To tear it's motor down, one that wire was not corroded would be very helpful. It would help too validate or disprove my theory.
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I paid around a grand I think.
From what I saw (I did take it apart):
- Motor was worn. Looked like it was marred and had some water penetration from the rusted connectors
- Connectors were completely rusted at motor and ABS controller (rusted so much it penetrated both)
- The wire was ok, but the end connectors were literally rusted into both motor and controller, I put a huge glop of dielectric grease in both ends when I rebuilt it.
- Motor was worn. Looked like it was marred and had some water penetration from the rusted connectors
- Connectors were completely rusted at motor and ABS controller (rusted so much it penetrated both)
- The wire was ok, but the end connectors were literally rusted into both motor and controller, I put a huge glop of dielectric grease in both ends when I rebuilt it.
Objects in mirror are crustier than they appear... finally inspected under the rubber boot of my 301k ‘98 LC and found this:
Then I looked at the “spare” booster assembly I pulled off a wrecked 150k ‘04 LX and found this:
I couldn’t even unscrew the connectors on the spare, they was so fused. I popped off the solenoid unit cover to get an idea of a possible workaround but the electrical routing is all overmolded into the case with spot-welded connections to each actuator. Very robust but almost impossible to DIY with any confidence.
Then I looked at the “spare” booster assembly I pulled off a wrecked 150k ‘04 LX and found this:
I couldn’t even unscrew the connectors on the spare, they was so fused. I popped off the solenoid unit cover to get an idea of a possible workaround but the electrical routing is all overmolded into the case with spot-welded connections to each actuator. Very robust but almost impossible to DIY with any confidence.
I've dealt with worst. Soak with some penetrating oil over night. Then try again with a really good fitting Phillips-Head Screwdrivers. Don't try to hard or you'll break the plastic ABS base.
Second option is to drill it out. Take your time so that you do not damage the electrical leads or plastic.
Starting on post #219: Scored 2007 Unicorn. The holy grail of 100 series.
I'm supper interested in is the commutator of each of your motors. You having two, the 04 w/150 and the 99 w/300, both with corroded wires. Will be very useful info. So far in the motors I've inspect, with corroded wire. Commutator of motor was worn out. I'm really hoping you'll post pictures of each here making note of wire condition?
Second option is to drill it out. Take your time so that you do not damage the electrical leads or plastic.
Starting on post #219: Scored 2007 Unicorn. The holy grail of 100 series.
I'm supper interested in is the commutator of each of your motors. You having two, the 04 w/150 and the 99 w/300, both with corroded wires. Will be very useful info. So far in the motors I've inspect, with corroded wire. Commutator of motor was worn out. I'm really hoping you'll post pictures of each here making note of wire condition?
Maybe putting another brake booster pump in. I installed a re-manufactured one from the guy in Santa Ana last year. While at expo, I got about 10 seconds of the master cylinder whine I had before, then it went away (This is not the loud screech most people hear, it's a small whine, and it pulses the brake fluid in the master cylinder. It went away when I replace the booster last year, up until now). My hope is it was a one time deal because of the cold, but I'm sure I'm not the lucky. I'll clean the contacts and see if that helps, and if I keep hearing the noise, I guess I will tear it out again.
Video of the returning noise. Like I said, it only lasted maybe 10 seconds this time, and that noise was always when it was cold when I replaced it the first time.
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Video of the returning noise. Like I said, it only lasted maybe 10 seconds this time, and that noise was always when it was cold when I replaced it the first time.
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Long time lurker, like 4 years... wife has the 2000 100 series LC, calls a couple blocks away and says all the lights are on and its beeping. ABS, brake, VCS is on with a tone. Notice that the brake pump isn't kicking on when the ignition is on. there is a little bit of fluid below the Master Cylinder, I cleaned that up and it doesn't look like any more fluid is leaking from the system. looked at the connections on the motor and the solenoid valve for the motor and they look fine. thinking its a bad motor I order a new one -$400. Go back and look at it later and knock on the the accumulator with my knuckle and it kicks on, everything is fine. ive noticed in the past that upon startup and while running, when the brake pump is on, voltage drops like 2V. I have also noticed the noise of the pump when it kicks on. after reading several posts, 30-40 seconds start up should be fine, mine cycles 3-4 times over 30 seconds. The thing that concerns me is the voltage drop. A couple volts drop mean some considerable amperage is being drawn, connectors look fine, but could the motor be on its way out? Truck has been running been running fine since.