Pole barn... what's the deal?

[MrMoMo]

So, one of the first jobs at the "new" property, before we build our house, is to put up the shop. I've been looking at a few metal buildings, but frankly I'm not all that impressed with them for the price. Then there was that thread on here I read about the one that collapsed. Not really what I would want to happen. I'm looking for something I can put up myself, fairly easily and with not much cost.

I checked with the local building inspector, and I am allowed to build a pole barn (I know some areas they are not allowed). What's the deal with pole barns. I've heard they are super easy and pretty cheap to build, so what's the down side? why don't more people build them?

The plan (or hope) is to build a 30 x 50 shop, I might be able to get a good deal through a friend for some surplus metal roofing, which I could then roof and wall it with. I'm not looking for a fancy building - but something that will last. I will end up insulating it as it gets cold here. I will also be putting a concrete floor in it. The idea is a shop, not a shed. I need a fairly high roof as I have a hoist, but to keep the overall building height down, I'd prefer not to use trusses. Is it possible to span 30' of width without using trusses, or center posts? (though if I had to have a center post, I suppose I could fit the hoist around it)

Just fishing for thoughts, Ideas, links... prices... do's & don'ts... (what does a phone pole cost?)


Thanks!

 

[Joe_E]

Around these parts the Amish folk build alot of them. Fairly reasonable on price. Basically you get 6X posts , some batten, trusses, metal roof and siding.
The material comes on one truck. They lay it out drill holes , stand posts, couple bags of mortar, prop up the poles. Come back next day and finish the whole thing.
No insulation, and trusses make for low ceiling unless you build a taller model.
Pouring a concrete floor is the killer pricewise.
Lot of friends have them, still kicking the idea around myself.

 

[TJDIV]

We built one this past summer.

I don't see any problem with them at all. 4x6's are all we needed and it's damned strong.
I think it's 12' or 14' to the bottom of the trusses iirc. The troopy fit in it well.

Go for it. IMO the best part of a pole barn is that as long as you start level and true it's pretty damned hard to mess it up.

 

[haystax]

Trusses are the key to building a pole barn, want higher ceiling - go with a higher eave. You may also look into starwood rafters or scissor trusses but a cut and stacked rafter system sorta defeats the purpose and economy of the pole building.

I would also suggest using square posts rather than power poles, unless you enjoy the added challenge of erecting the posts with the proper lean to compensate for the taper of the round post.

Insulation typical goes on between the purlins and metal and is lacking of any real R value. Skylights are also a PITA and lead to condensation problems.

I would avoid putting doors under the eaves, and allow for a good eave overhang to get the drip line as far away as is practical. A long steel tape measure, couple of string lines, and a water level or laser are the only real tools necessary for layout. I don't like to set posts in concrete, I think they last better in tamped soil in my experience.

I'm going to try to get a 60'x120' pole barn machine shed up this fall, probably include a finished apartment in one corner. I might try the Starwood trusses if they are cheap enough, the economy has put 90% of the truss shops out of business here locally. The steel roofing/siding should be a little cheaper though and lumber is at almost all-time lows.

Good Luck!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

The finished apartment idea in one end sounds awesome. That would be the ideal beginner house for me.

 

[Toyo FJ40]

Check your local code for what they allow for pole barns. My township required pored concrete in the bottom of the holes that the poles sat on and no trusses. My township won't allow trusses on anything over 1000 sq ft. I had to frame a raftered second floor. Now I could have built under the new ICC code which allows you to build a building that's not for human habitation without a permit but the building inspector said only my immediate family would be allowed in the barn (have no idea how they would enforce that) 2x on the square poles, if you want to finish it you'll wish they were square.

Because I didn't use trusses I have 4 posts in my shop.

Of course I now have a 1200 sq ft 2nd floor


Kevin

 

[MrMoMo]

Good to know guys - thanks for the thoughts/tips. I did find out that the front of my shop has to be behind the front of my house, using a line parallel to the front lot line... Odd rule if you ask me. Anyway - that's easy to solve. Also determined that "pole barns" are allowed (building inspector didn't have any hesitations with that) Though I didn't ask about specific construction methods of pole barns.

 

[idcruiserboy]

pole building

I actually went through hansenpolebuildings.com. I probably could have saved a few $$ doing it all myself but it was well worth paying the extra to have their help.

I told them what i wanted, they pulled permits, engineered the building, and had all the lumber and metal i needed to have delivered to my door in about 3 weeks.
They give you a step by step instruction book with the building that tells you what, where and when to hammer the nail.

IIRC I even called them on a saturday or sunday night around 8 or 9 pm and they called me back within about 5 minutes and answered my ?'s.

I built a 30x40 with 2 10x10 overhead doors. My trusses are doubled together and placed about 10' apart so i have plenty of room between them.

I think it ran me about $7200 for the material and another $3000 for the concrete and labor to pour the slab about 4 years ago.

idcruiserboy

 

[Toyo FJ40]

I actually went through hansenpolebuildings.com. I probably could have saved a few $$ doing it all myself but it was well worth paying the extra to have their help.

I told them what i wanted, they pulled permits, engineered the building, and had all the lumber and metal i needed to have delivered to my door in about 3 weeks.
They give you a step by step instruction book with the building that tells you what, where and when to hammer the nail.

IIRC I even called them on a saturday or sunday night around 8 or 9 pm and they called me back within about 5 minutes and answered my ?'s.

I built a 30x40 with 2 10x10 overhead doors. My trusses are doubled together and placed about 10' apart so i have plenty of room between them.

I think it ran me about $7200 for the material and another $3000 for the concrete and labor to pour the slab about 4 years ago.



idcruiserboy

I used Conestoga here in PA and they were great. The crew were all Mennonites and it's one of the first construction sites I've been on that there was no swearing or yelling. Conestoga had me pull all the permits. I built a 30x40 with a 12 ft ceiling and 2 10x10 overhead doors and 1 regular 3x6'8" door. There price with steel roof and siding over tyvec was $19000.00 not including concrete.
When the township made me frame the 2nd floor the price jumped to $40,000.00 not including concrete. 6" floor poured over 2" of foam cost another $6000.00.


Kevin

 

[AdventureToolCompany]

Would love to revive this thread with updated pole barn build experiences and advice. I was at the point to start building this spring when I had a meeting with my goto builder and learned that due to the crazy building craze in Colorado now it has driven all the costs up (labor, lumber, concrete and not to mention the "mountain surcharge" on everything that happens a above 6000'!) so, I'm now looking at a Pole Barn versus a stick/frame building to cut my costs. Any thoughts? Thanks.

 

[1911]

... so, I'm now looking at a Pole Barn versus a stick/frame building to cut my costs. Any thoughts? Thanks.

We're living in one now, while we build our main house. Built the shop one year ago; the details are here in my build thread: Building a new house and shop

This is the second shop/pole barn that I've had. The first one was with the last property when I bought it; this second one I had built from scratch to my specs. The biggest things I've learned from both are:

1. The new shop uses I-beam arches to hold up the roof, instead of trusses made of 2" square tubing like the last one. Stronger, and it leaves you with a lot more overhead room for tall bay doors, a 2-post lift, etc.

2. Spray-in foam insulation is vastly superior to fiberglass batting. Much more air tight - it fills every crevice and crack. Rodents can't get underneath it and nest like they do under fiberglass batting. We have 1" on the ceiling and exterior walls, and 4" filling all the interior framing for the apartment. A small heat pump keeps it cosy the year round, for less than $75/month in the most extreme months.

3. Go tall. Having at least 12' walls gives you more space and more options. We have 10'-high walls in our apartment, which makes it seem much larger and not cramped, and still have room overhead for HVAC and water heating equipment, and storage.

4. Plan your slab or other foundation for any possible future use (lift, etc.). You can't re-do that once it's down.

That's all I can think of at the moment; if I remember other stuff I'll add it later.

Good luck with your build.

 

[thatcabledude]

Think about placing a couple drains in the floor.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Think about placing a couple drains in the floor

In my County of Missouri, that's a big fail with the inspectors. They don't want any fuel or oil going into the sewer system or septic system. If you need drains, put them in and cement over them, then down the road when finished chip out the cement.

 

[thatcabledude]

That makes sense and is definitely a good tip. Inspections aren’t something that even crosses my mind. Lol