PLEASE HELP - 1997 LX450 208k Miles - MAGNETIC METAL IN OIL

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Bottom line:

The engine is on borrowed time at the very least. It is a ticking bomb.

You can continue to operate it until it fails catastrophically and then start over from scratch.

Or, you can stop now and rebuild what you currently have.

Your choice, your billfold.

Pick one and proceed.

Any resources you expend on band-aids will be wasted.
 
Bottom line:

The engine is on borrowed time at the very least. It is a ticking bomb.

You can continue to operate it until it fails catastrophically and then start over from scratch.

Or, you can stop now and rebuild what you currently have.

Your choice, your billfold.

Pick one and proceed.

Any resources you expend on band-aids will be wasted.
Right I’ve figured that.

Anyone have a decent resource for rolling bearings in on these engines? I’ve read everyone saying that it’s possible to pull the upper oil pan but everyone regrets doing it
 
Right I’ve figured that.

Anyone have a decent resource for rolling bearings in on these engines? I’ve read everyone saying that it’s possible to pull the upper oil pan but everyone regrets doing it
Download the FSM and search here on Mud. It’s all be done before… one way or another.
 
thanks old Nick, king of the vague suggestion
Bruh, show some initiative. Search here on Mud, and download the FSM… it’s available here for free and provides step-by-step for everything you can imagine… bearings, et. al.

The fellas who have chimed in here on your thread are frigging og 80 specialists (both as professionals employed by Toyota and enthusiasts).
 
Bruh, show some initiative. Search here on Mud, and download the FSM… it’s available here for free and provides step-by-step for everything you can imagine… bearings, et. al.

The fellas who have chimed in here on your thread are frigging og 80 specialists (both as professionals employed by Toyota and enthusiasts).
Bruh I have gone the fsm countless times. I’m lookin for folks with experience doing this. @landtank offered an anecdote of doing it which I appreciate.

Not sure why you are here in this thread, aside from policing my outlet for advice and troubleshooting a problem. Quit acting like you know a thing about this, because really all you have done is say listen to the experts.
 
Haven't done it myself but FWIW here's an example of one method to push out the top half of a main bearing;



The short video shows a small pin being placed into a crank oil port then rotating the crank slowly while the head of the pin
pushes the top half of the main bearing out. The pin looks too large at first because it's so close to the camera but watch closely
after he inserts it into the port and rotates the crank.

Using pin to push out top bearing shell.webp



OR:



And another that discusses keeping track of rod bearing numbers:





Someone with experience actually doing this (I haven't) might chime in:
 
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Just run it, it’s going to be fine.

That’s want you want to hear right. 😎
 
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Removing pan is doable and super terrible but doable.


Drain oil
Drain coolant and remove lower hose bracket on pan
Remove shroud and fan/fan clutch
Loosen bottom engine mount until it’s barely holding on
Jack up motor until it can’t go no further on engine mount or you crunching stuff
Pull bell housing bolts that go into pan
Pull front driveline
Pull front sway bar
Pull lower pan
Pull oil level sensor
Disconnect crank position sensor
disconnect trans lines bracket on the side of upper pan
remove pan
Roll in bearings
Seal it up.
Don’t forget to put oil in!!!
Drive another 250k
Might be forgetting a few items to remove but you get the idea.
 
@Kernal thank you. i've seen the little ground bolt trick on a couple other videos, scary but makes sense.

@Fj80oregon Super terrible but doable is the name of the game it seems

What are more likely to go, main bearings or rod bearings in the 1fzfe? suppose i can't tell which type i've chewed up with the inch long sliver i've got?
 
I have removed the upper oil pan with the engine in-frame. I'll never do it again. It is easier to pull the engine.
 
@Kernal thank you. i've seen the little ground bolt trick on a couple other videos, scary but makes sense.

@Fj80oregon Super terrible but doable is the name of the game it seems

What are more likely to go, main bearings or rod bearings in the 1fzfe? suppose i can't tell which type i've chewed up with the inch long sliver i've got?
I don’t think you will know until you start pulling them, the best part is the bearings are keyed fitted by hand at the factory and can be different sizes. Once you pull your pan you can cross reference the crank and block stampings per the FSM, to see what size you need to order.
 
Some of the smartest well respected members on the board have offered their advice.
But you insist on living in a fantasy that a Band-Aid fix is going to solve your problem.
With all the debris from your last oil change, it’s clear that there’s more than just the main bearings that have left the chat.

Sure putty a band-Aid on it you might buy some time but ultimately your just wasting time and money that could be spent doing a proper repair.

The minds of the hive determined this in the first few pages of this thread.
Now we’re seven pages deep so don’t be surprised if there’s a few sarcastic responses.

Sorry for your misfortune and I hope you find a solution to make you whole again.
 
Really good one, such a great look on a Sunday night, just perusing forums of people down on their luck making 2 cent jokes.

You are a tool, hope the hole you cut into your rear seat keeps you a lot of company at night. Or maybe you and old Nick can take turns, keep each other warm.
That Escalated Quickly.gif
 
I replaced the 2 rear most main bearings in situ late last year on my daughters LX450.

Dropped both pans, loosened all main caps a wee bit and pushed the old bearing out with the new bearing. I have a 2 post lift which made it a bit easier.

I did find out the "different size" main and rod bearings are a thing of the past. Standard or regrind sizes only.

The project ended up a failure as the #5 rod journal was a bit undersized from damage and knocks even with 20W50 oil.

If I had to do it over again I would have sourced a good used engine and gone to town.
 
I replaced the 2 rear most main bearings in situ late last year on my daughter’s LX450.

Dropped both pans, loosened all main caps a wee bit and pushed the old bearing out with the new bearing. I have a 2 post lift which made it a bit easier.

I did find out the "different size" main and rod bearings are a thing of the past. Standard or regrind sizes only.

The project ended up a failure as the #5 rod journal was a bit undersized from damage and knocks even with 20W50 oil.

If I had to do it over again I would have sourced a good used engine and gone to town.
I appreciate you sharing this. Helpful as I try and figure out next steps. Sucks that the repair didn’t save the rig.

What is wild is that I have no rod knock or anything coming from the engine. She runs like a top and sounds great. I’m sure I’m testing fate here, and I’ll probably have a piston shoot through my hood later today, as everyone keeps telling me 🤣
 
Really good one, such a great look on a Sunday night, just perusing forums of people down on their luck making 2 cent jokes.

You are a tool, hope the hole you cut into your rear seat keeps you a lot of company at night. Or maybe you and old Nick can take turns, keep each other warm.
No seriously. It has lead particles in it that fill in the wear, restoring original performance. Might take a few cans to rebuild that bearing. You might want to mention it in your next Blackstone report in case they mistake it for metal debris though.
 
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