PLEASE HELP - 1997 LX450 208k Miles - MAGNETIC METAL IN OIL

[Kernal]

In the photo above, yes, there are two black pipes (for the rear heater) running side-by-side then hose sections then pipes again as shown in the diagram.
Can you get a better photo of the rusty pipes?

Either way if you develop a leak in those pipes some people bypass the rear heater circuit altogether and at least part of the reason for that is that the first section of rear heater pipes (starting from the firewall) are very difficult to replace with the engine/transmission in place.

Search for Rear Heater bypass, mod, etc

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Here's a photo showing the firewall, engine removed, which shows where the rear heater pipes start:

Thread 'bypassing rear heater hoses?'

Apr 17, 2008

So, I'm doing a PM of all heater hoses. Basically I want to do this once and forget about it for many years to come. Problem is, I can't replace every single heater hose. There's at least one formed hose that Toyota doesn't sell seperately. It's the passenger side rear heater hose and goes from the T down to another pipe behind the engine and into the firewall via another hose. There's a second pipe in the loop on the driver's side I think. And there's two lower firewall (if I'm looking at the diagram right) hoses that look impossible to get too. Maybe these aren't firewall...

• Brian894X4
• Replies: 32
• Forum: 80-Series Tech

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This photo was stolen from @LandCruiserPhil who sells the specific hoses needed for a rear heater bypass:

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This thread has good photos showing the water heater pipes/hoses:

Thread 'Rear Heater Delete/Coolant Line Cleanup'

Sep 8, 2018

I just wanted to give a quick picture tutorial on how I cleaned up my heater and coolant lines under the hood.

On my '93, this method reduced the number of heater hose connections from over 50, to about 10. It also makes the whole system much more simple. This method requires deleting the rear heater (obviously), PAIR system (which Toyota did on later models anyway), and the throttle body coolant lines. On colder-climate trucks, you may want to avoid deleting TB coolant lines.


Replacement parts needed:

• OEM Heater Control Valve (Toyota PN: 87240-60140)
• Gates 5/8" Green Stripe...

• Will Van
• Replies: 137
• Forum: 80-Series Tech

• 

And another:

Thread '1996 FZJ80 Coolant & Heater Hose Part Numbers & Pictures'

Jun 21, 2018

This is subject to change, but here's what I've come up with so far(updated 7/6/2018):

FZJ80 Heater Hose Part Numbers and Locations

• PNWFJ80
• Jul 6, 2018
• fzj80 heater hose part number phh

FZJ80 Heater hose part numbers and locations with pictures

FZJ80 Heater Hose Part Numbers and Locations

• PNWFJ80
• Jul 6, 2018
• fzj80 heater hose part number phh

FZJ80 Heater hose part numbers and locations with pictures

FZJ80 Heater Hose Part Numbers and Locations

• PNWFJ80
• Jul 6, 2018
• fzj80 heater hose part number phh

FZJ80 Heater hose part numbers and locations with pictures

FZJ80 Heater Hose Part Numbers and Locations

• PNWFJ80
• Jul 6, 2018
• fzj80 heater hose part number phh

FZJ80 Heater hose part numbers and locations with pictures

FZJ80 Heater Hose Part Numbers and Locations

• PNWFJ80
• Jul 6, 2018
• fzj80 heater hose part number phh

FZJ80 Heater hose part numbers and locations with pictures

Finished! (except for the rear seat...

• PNWFJ80
• 1996 fzj80 part numbers
• Replies: 45
• Forum: 80-Series Tech

• 

 

[mcbs]

@Kernal holy smokes man, thank you for this. Hopefully I will be replacing it soon just gotta get through the next couple thousand miles to start spending on her again. If not and i do pull the engine, i will be able to get at those hoses.

And I will try and get some more photos of the hoses. Based on the description, it explains why it's been so hard to get a good shot. might be able to get a light better positioned from below for the el cheapo boroscope i've got.

 

[mcbs]

Results from running the engine with 7 parts 5w30 1 part tranny oil. Filter was full of sludge. 850 ish miles. Wondering if I should go for a second time.

Also, everyone already guess this but I am thinking this confirms the engine ate a bearing. Hoping I am early. Wonder if i should just go for a thicker weight oil now.

Lastly - wtf is this thick rubber gasket. and what is the blue hardened bit??? Any guesses? More of the red bit showed up too.

 

[Old Nick]

Results from running the engine with 7 parts 5w30 1 part tranny oil. Filter was full of sludge. 850 ish miles. Wondering if I should go for a second time.

Also, everyone already guess this but I am thinking this confirms the engine ate a bearing. Hoping I am early. Wonder if i should just go for a thicker weight oil now.

Lastly - wtf is this thick rubber gasket. and what is the blue hardened bit??? Any guesses? More of the red bit showed up too.

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Man, if I was getting debris like that in my oil, not a chance that I’d keep driving the truck. Just one internet weirdo’s opinion, I know, but it seems to me that you’re playing Russian Roulette.

 

[Broski]

Looks like you cleaned out the garage disposal.
Stop running that thing before you make it worse

 

[mcbs]

@Broski @Old Nick

explain it to me.

I will have to pull the engine at this point. No knocking. no loss in power. no loss in pressure. no codes. no loss in compression.

Short of cracking the block do to piston slap and loosing out on a core deposit on a rebuild, what do i have to lose?

 

[Old Nick]

It’s your truck and your money and time. Do what you want, man. There’s already been plenty of good advice offered upstream in this thread.

 

[landtank]

I had this exact problem with a guys truck. dropped the pans, removed the connecting rod caps and pushed the pistons all the way up into the cylinders. Used some wet/dry emery cloth soaked with isopropyl alcohol and did my best to polish the crank. did thr same on the main bearings. here i loosened all the bearing caps and one at time rolled out the bearing, cleaned the crank, rolled in new bearings and moved to the new one. Once all the mains were done I torqued the mains , installed new bearings in the connecting rods and put it all back together. you could see marring on the crank but not feel it. 7 years now without issue.

 

[mcbs]

I had this exact problem with a guys truck. dropped the pans, removed the connecting rod caps and pushed the pistons all the way up into the cylinders. Used some wet/dry emery cloth soaked with isopropyl alcohol and did my best to polish the crank. did thr same on the main bearings. here i loosened all the bearing caps and one at time rolled out the bearing, cleaned the crank, rolled in new bearings and moved to the new one. Once all the mains were done I torqued the mains , installed new bearings in the connecting rods and put it all back together. you could see marring on the crank but not feel it. 7 years now without issue.

If I could find someone reliable nearby that could roll them in I would definitely do it

You mind me asking, what did you charge for that?

 

[landtank]

just helping a friend. this is definitely a DIY shot in the dark. you aren't going to be able pay anyone to do this.

 

[mcbs]

just helping a friend. this is definitely a DIY shot in the dark. you aren't going to be able pay anyone to do this.

Yeah fair enough. So you pulled upper oil pan with engine still in?

 

[Kernal]

"---after running the engine with 7 parts 5w30 1 part tranny oil. Filter was full of sludge. 850 ish miles. Wondering if I should go for a second time."

NO

The blue and red chunks and the chunk that look like a small brillo pad could be from an oil filter that came apart, old gasket material, etc,etc. Agree, the flat strip of metal appears to be a piece of an engine bearing.

Did you ever get an engine oil analysis? Doesn't change anything, it would just add a few interesting data points (ie high metals PPM from the bearings).

Putting it all together here's one possible scenario: the engine was not taken care of over it's life, infrequent oil changes, plugged PCV system, sludge formation, and/or add the possibility of an oil filter coming apart. All that together ended up blocking oil flow/pressure to internal oil galleys/ports resulting in low/no oil flow to at least some of the engine bearings (and other internal engine components). So instead of just a bearing swap (maybe if you're lucky) you'll need a replacement engine.

IF you decide to continue driving your 80 (not recommended) at least use a heavier weight oil (~15W-40) WITHOUT ATF. You'll know when more damage has occurred; the engine will start to knock, etc,etc

Better to park it until you decide/find a way to fix it.

 

[mcbs]

"---after running the engine with 7 parts 5w30 1 part tranny oil. Filter was full of sludge. 850 ish miles. Wondering if I should go for a second time."

NO

The blue and red chunks and the chunk that look like a small brillo pad could be from an oil filter that came apart, old gasket material, etc,etc. Agree, the flat strip of metal appears to be a piece of an engine bearing.

Did you ever get an engine oil analysis? Doesn't change anything, it would just add a few interesting data points (ie high metals PPM from the bearings).

Putting it all together here's one possible scenario: the engine was not taken care of over it's life, infrequent oil changes, plugged PCV system, sludge formation, and/or add the possibility of an oil filter coming apart. All that together ended up blocking oil flow/pressure to internal oil galleys/ports resulting in low/no oil flow to at least some of the engine bearings (and other internal engine components). So instead of just a bearing swap (maybe if you're lucky) you'll need a replacement engine.

IF you decide to continue driving your 80 (not recommended) at least use a heavier weight oil (15W-40) WITHOUT ATF. You'll know when you've done more damage, the engine will start to knock, etc,etc

Better to park it until you decide/find a way to fix it.

Yes I did do a blackstone lab test on it - have done it every oil change since I purchased it.

"Bearings in this engine are primarily made of lead/copper; the magnetic metal you found in the oil pan is from steel parts like cylinders, shafts, and valvetrain components. Iron looks okay on a microscopic level (the 9-ppm reading isn't excessive), but visible metal indicates steel parts are wearing more than we can tell (and more than they should be). The other metals are fine, and we didn't detect any contamination. Keep a close eye on the visible metal, watch for any issues in operation, and check back on a shorter run to monitor."

Yeah already decided to go with a thicker weight oil, but a considering the hard cold starts i had just prior to finding the glitter in the oil I was thinking it might be better to go with a 5w-40.

I'd love to roll bearings in, but it is not feasible for me to do this at this point, mostly time and shop space. I know I will be paying 15k for a rebuilt and swap. I've also read about plenty of folks limping these things along for another 10k miles after throwing a bearing.

 

[COS80]

Your engine is effed.

Someone had to say it.

 

[mcbs]

Your engine is effed.

Someone had to say it.

not news.

 

[COS80]

not news.

Not at all, but OP is still trying to convince himself he can keep driving it. NO!

 

[Kernal]

Depending on your financial situation there are used engines coming up for sale regularly, there was one available in Colorado just this week in the Classifieds (Parts). To properly rebuild a 1FZFE block the cost can approach that of a new short block which is still available from Toyota (11400-66041). Prices range from ~$3500-5000 (retail) depending on dealer, discounts, sales, etc.. @OregonFJ80 also rebuilds complete engines.

 

[mcbs]

Depending on your financial situation there are used engines coming up for sale regularly, there was one available in Colorado just this week in the Classifieds (Parts). To properly rebuild a 1FZFE block the cost can approach that of a new short block which is still available from Toyota (11400-66041). Prices range from ~$3500-5000 (retail) depending on dealer, discounts, sales, etc.. @OregonFJ80 also rebuilds complete engines.

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Right on - not a bad way to think about it. Shop space and time are really the biggest determinates at the moment, behind money of course .

I'd love to tackle this given the space.

 

[landtank]

Yeah fair enough. So you pulled upper oil pan with engine still in?

He

Yeah fair enough. So you pulled upper oil pan with engine still in?

yes.

 

[mcbs]

He

yes.

Someone on fb wrote they thought it could be a thrust washer from the crank. That make any sense to you?