- Thread starter
- #41
Hasn't been touched in the roughly 40k miles i have owned it. 308 ft. lbs is WILD!
Regarding high-idle, going off of memory I'd say roughly yes - always kept an eye on pressure and it never got above 3/4 that's for sure.
PLEASE HELP - 1997 LX450 208k Miles - MAGNETIC METAL IN OIL
- Thread starter mcbs
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Regarding high-idle, going off of memory I'd say roughly yes - always kept an eye on pressure and it never got above 3/4 that's for sure.
Something to note mentioning, since you have said something about rough sounding starts. What oil filter have you been using, the OEM has an Antidrain back valve in it to keep oil in the filter after shut down. Many accepted as “good quality” filter companies that offer part numbers do NOT have this valve. WIX and those house brands like NAPA gold made by wix are the 1st to come to mind.
Not having this valve leads to more lack of oil pressure for longer on more start ups as the pump has to fill the filter, and you get some timing chain rattle, which can become a more consistent noise on start up even after you put the right filters on. Not saying this was your issue but it has eaten a couple 1FZs
Edit here’s a good read
Not having this valve leads to more lack of oil pressure for longer on more start ups as the pump has to fill the filter, and you get some timing chain rattle, which can become a more consistent noise on start up even after you put the right filters on. Not saying this was your issue but it has eaten a couple 1FZs
Edit here’s a good read
- Thread starter
- #43
This checks out at a lot. The P.O. Did not seem to be using oem as I pulled a wix off of it. I’ve always used oem since owning the truck.Something to note mentioning, since you have said something about rough sounding starts. What oil filter have you been using, the OEM has an Antidrain back valve in it to keep oil in the filter after shut down. Many accepted as “good quality” filter companies that offer part numbers do NOT have this valve. WIX and those house brands like NAPA gold made by wix are the 1st to come to mind.
Not having this valve leads to more lack of oil pressure for longer on more start ups as the pump has to fill the filter, and you get some timing chain rattle, which can become a more consistent noise on start up even after you put the right filters on. Not saying this was your issue but it has eaten a couple 1FZs
Edit here’s a good read
Last edited:
Then there is a very slight possibility that your metal is from the timing components, but I am with most everyone else, it’s likely bearings.
- Thread starter
- #45
Right on. I have this strange feeling it is timing components but in doing my research it sure seems like you gotta pull the engine to do the timing chain proper any how. Not to mention the system is likely contaminated regardless.
Yeah I would pull it and I would just refresh it all, and put back together with turbo intention’s. Or go the route of v8 swap of your choice. Lots of LS/LT GM swap info and support out there, also as of the last couple years more off the shelf options to make a UZ swap a bit more home garage friendly. I went the UZ route personally.
- Thread starter
- #48
thinking back on this - the bad starts i have had have also been with ridiculous wait times for the engine to actually begin the ignition sequence. like i will be turning the key holding it on - and wait sometimes multiple seconds before I have ignition begin. that issue was fairly common. is that oil pressure/pump related? Like i said before, there were a couple god awful sounding cranks, but the super delayed ignition issue was pretty pervasive. It isn't a voltage issue, i am sure of that.Something to note mentioning, since you have said something about rough sounding starts. What oil filter have you been using, the OEM has an Antidrain back valve in it to keep oil in the filter after shut down. Many accepted as “good quality” filter companies that offer part numbers do NOT have this valve. WIX and those house brands like NAPA gold made by wix are the 1st to come to mind.
Not having this valve leads to more lack of oil pressure for longer on more start ups as the pump has to fill the filter, and you get some timing chain rattle, which can become a more consistent noise on start up even after you put the right filters on. Not saying this was your issue but it has eaten a couple 1FZs
Edit here’s a good read
At this point I don’t think it really matters.
Pull it out and tear it down
Pull it out and tear it down
I’m guessing that would be a starter issue. Had a similar issue where I’d turn the ignition and nothing would happen for 5-10 seconds. Replaced my starter as well as wiring as they had been a bit melted and shoddily fixed
- Thread starter
- #51
Right on - yeah i thought it could be as well. Noticed the battery cables were super corroded so replaced that part and definitely noticed improvements in electronics around the rig.
I started to wonder if the original key was even being worn down too much. I noticed if i forward applied pressure on the key while turning, the start would be quicker.
At any rate, if and when this engine comes out, probably worth taking a look at the starter too.
Old Nick
GOLD Star
I’d wager that the no crank is your “factory” alarm system. Search here for instructions then pull it. That’s got nothing to do with metal in your oil pan.
That's not a bad bet, though I've been having a similar, but veeeeery intermittent no-start situation. Since my remote range had shortened to the point that it was less work to use the key, I swapped it out, but I just had another brief no-start last week. Cables are next: I'm working my way to the starter, using it as an excuse to fix a few other things. I assume it's really the starter solenoid, but it's so sporadic that it's hard to diagnose - hence fixing stuff I wanted to fix anyway. Anyway, my point is that it may well NOT be the alarm system.
Either way, I'm 100% with you that it's got nothing to do with what's happening in @mcbs 's oil pan. Pulling the engine seems like the path forward to me, regardless of the choice from there. Even if it turns out to be timing chain chunks and you make the attempt to flush all the metal from the system, that's all going to be easier and more effective on an engine stand.
Old Nick
GOLD Star
My wife and I are watching “Billions”. I’m feeling like betting it all…
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What do you mean? Is this crank no start, no crank with key in start position, or something else?
- Thread starter
- #56
Literally turning key and there is not sound, nothing indicating the engine is even igniting, if you hold for multiple seconds the engine will fire up, nothing odd once it actually starts. No cranking sound in the start position. Only when cold.
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Sorry, still not understand. Ignition will not happen before the engine cranks. Is the engine cranking or not?
- Thread starter
- #58
Engine turns over fine. But when turning the key there is a 5 second delay before any cranking.
Starter solenoid. Many threads regarding this. More prevalent when cold.
About $60 in parts and some time fixes the issue.
Part numbers for future reference assuming OEM DENSO starter. Procedure is in the FSM as well as many threads here.
28226-66060 starter terminal (battery side)
28226-72010 starter terminal (motor side)
28235-54380 solenoid plunger
The solenoid plunger bore gets dirty and the 30 year old grease solidifies when cold preventing the plunger from activating.
A good cleaning followed by fresh lightweight grease and new parts will make all your dreams come true.